Barrel life on Tikka factory 6.5 CM?

[Helislacker]

Hi guys,

I’ve been listening to Frank’s podcast and I recall hearing in one of the episodes that the barrel life of a 6.5 CM hovers around 3000-3500 if you don’t beat it up and overheat it. Ive also been told by others to not expect more than 2000 out of a 6.5 CM barrel for competition purposes. This is a wide range, and I’m unsure as to what is actually correct. I’ve been shooting my Tikka a lot and know that it shoots about 100fps slower than the average barrel. So my questions are;

1. What is the average life expectancy of a standard 6.5 CM barrel? I would consider shot out being not able to shoot under 0.75” groups at 100.
2. Secondly, considering my average FPS is 2610 for a 140gr bullet, how much extra barrel life should I expect out of a Tikka barrel vs aftermarket? Assuming I’m not heating it up too much and taking my time between strings.

Thanks for your time

 

[stello1001]

Hi guys,

I’ve been listening to Frank’s podcast and I recall hearing in one of the episodes that the barrel life of a 6.5 CM hovers around 3000-3500 if you don’t beat it up and overheat it.


Ive also been told by others to not expect more than 2000 out of a 6.5 CM barrel for competition purposes.

This is a wide range, and I’m unsure as to what is actually correct.

Barrel life hovers around 3000-3500 IF YOU DONT BEAT IT UP AND OVERHEAT IT.


Do not expect more than 2000 out of a 6.5 CM barrel FOR COMPETITION PURPOSES.

You are correct that there is quite a difference in number of rounds for barrel life but did you not notice the 2 different types of scenarios?



Competitions usually put pressure on a shooter to where he/she has to shoot within a fast paced clock, thus overheating a barrel at times. That causes a barrel to wear out quicker.

Yes, Tikka barrels are known to be slow but that has nothing to do with barrel life. Yours should be slow but very accurate as most are.

 

[Grouper]

Barrel life hovers around 3000-3500 IF YOU DONT BEAT IT UP AND OVERHEAT IT.


Do not expect more than 2000 out of a 6.5 CM barrel FOR COMPETITION PURPOSES.

You are correct that there is quite a difference in number of rounds for barrel life but did you not notice the 2 different types of scenarios?



Competitions usually put pressure on a shooter to where he/she has to shoot within a fast paced clock, thus overheating a barrel at times. That causes a barrel to wear out quicker.

Yes, Tikka barrels are known to be slow but that has nothing to do with barrel life. Yours should be slow but very accurate as most are.

When the accuracy goes away I call it worn out , then get another one ! Don’t over heat or beat it up with really hot loads !

 

[lash]

Like @stello1001 says, they are both correct. Shooting as low pressure load should definitely give you towards the higher end of round count. I do shoot matches, but also shoot a low-mid speed load in my .260 (same diff.) and get on the high end of the round count at 3500-ish. Also, barrels are replaceable.

Barrel life hovers around 3000-3500 IF YOU DONT BEAT IT UP AND OVERHEAT IT.


Do not expect more than 2000 out of a 6.5 CM barrel FOR COMPETITION PURPOSES.

You are correct that there is quite a difference in number of rounds for barrel life but did you not notice the 2 different types of scenarios?



Competitions usually put pressure on a shooter to where he/she has to shoot within a fast paced clock, thus overheating a barrel at times. That causes a barrel to wear out quicker.

Yes, Tikka barrels are known to be slow but that has nothing to do with barrel life. Yours should be slow but very accurate as most are.

 

[Steel head]

My previous 260 barrel went 3000+ and I abused it pretty badly.

 

[Ledzep]

I'm somewhere near the 2600-2800 range with my 6.5 creedmoor Brux barrel; lost exact count. Velocity has dropped off some but accuracy is still there. I haven't been especially nice to it, lots of matches and rapid fire practice. The grooves are dark in the throat when looking from behind and it looks heinous with a bore scope but it still shoots so I'll keep on with it a few hundred more until it finally gives up.

 

[lash]

I think this difference in barrel life between competition and ..?..."other than competition"... shooting is accuracy requirements. When you are required to perform a measurable task by someone else it really forces one to buckle down and qualify what they're doing. Otherwise it's pretty natural to rationalize flyers, misses, or larger groups. Can you put 3500rds thru a barrel is a different question than do you want to go into an environment of consequences with 3500rds on a barrel. A lot of competition shooters will pull a barrel when they lose confidence in it and just as many will pull a barrel at a certain round count, as a rule, based on their statistical experience shooting out barrels with that particular round and load. My last 6SLR barrel still shot 3/8" moa at 100 but the MV became eradic and I had elevational issues at distance. It would be easy to ignore that if I was plinking with it and didn't shoot for groups past 300

True but. Muzzle velocity and pressure.

It does make a difference.

 

[mjh30]

Hi guys,

I’ve been listening to Frank’s podcast and I recall hearing in one of the episodes that the barrel life of a 6.5 CM hovers around 3000-3500 if you don’t beat it up and overheat it. Ive also been told by others to not expect more than 2000 out of a 6.5 CM barrel for competition purposes. This is a wide range, and I’m unsure as to what is actually correct. I’ve been shooting my Tikka a lot and know that it shoots about 100fps slower than the average barrel. So my questions are;

1. What is the average life expectancy of a standard 6.5 CM barrel? I would consider shot out being not able to shoot under 0.75” groups at 100.
2. Secondly, considering my average FPS is 2610 for a 140gr bullet, how much extra barrel life should I expect out of a Tikka barrel vs aftermarket? Assuming I’m not heating it up too much and taking my time between strings.

Thanks for your time

6.5 creeds dont have great barrel life, its that simple, I don't think much og factory barrels either. But 2610 is a joke for velocity with a 6.5 with 140' is that a reload?

 

[tree man]

6.5 creeds dont have great barrel life, its that simple, I don't think much og factory barrels either. But 2610 is a joke for velocity with a 6.5 with 140' is that a reload?

That’s about right right for a 20” tikka
I had Gradous swap a barrel out for me today on my 20” tikka and it was at 2650 with 41.5 of 4350 and a 140 shot decent but slow as hell

 

[Steel head]

6.5 creeds dont have great barrel life, its that simple, I don't think much og factory barrels either. But 2610 is a joke for velocity with a 6.5 with 140' is that a reload?

That’s about right right for a 20” tikka
I had Gradous swap a barrel out for me today on my 20” tikka and it was at 2650 with 41.5 of 4350 and a 140 shot decent but slow as hell

I agree.
tikka barrels are famous for being a bit slow and that speed from a 20”” is about right with realistic loads.

a lot of people push 6.5CM barrels (and 260) hard and with some abuse it won’t last as long

 

[CaptNemo]

Swap out your H4350 for RL16 and get some of the velocity back..

 

[Steel head]

Swap out your H4350 for RL16 and get some of the velocity back..

If my results are similar to others R16 is what H4350 was 5 years ago.

THE mid sized case 6.5 powder of choice.

 

[Helislacker]

Appreciate all of your responses. Sounds like it may be a good idea to try and replace the Tikka barrel ASAP anyway.

 

[Helislacker]

Appreciate all of your responses. Sounds like it may be a good idea to try and replace the Tikka barrel ASAP anyway.

 

[Steel head]

Appreciate all of your responses. Sounds like it may be a good idea to try and replace the Tikka barrel ASAP anyway.

Why?
Burn it out and then start again.

 

[Lunchbox27]

I had a 20” CTR in 6.5 CM. At 800 rounds I had a Proof stainless spun on because I wanted more speed. Looking back now, I should have just shot it out. It was NOT holding me back. But, I had an itch, and the new barrel scratched it.

In the 20” factory barrel the 140 ELD ammo was going around 2600fps. I was able to get 2680 with Reloader 16. The new barrel is slinging the 140 ELD ammo at 2800fps. So, I gained 200 fps.

Now, lets take a look at the difference. Keep in mind, this is just plugged into AB from my phone app, not exact, but you will get the point.

Both pics have the 140 ELD, both have a 10 mph, full value 3 o’clock crosswind. The yardage is 1000. The red highlights show the drop and wind in MRAD.

2600fps

2800 fps

Less than 2/10’s of a mill difference. Thats roughly 7 inchs between the two. Sure, the drop data is better, but gravity is constant. Wind is forever changing.

Just something to think about. I say keep it, learn the wind and do some matches.

 

[tree man]

I had a 20” CTR in 6.5 CM. At 800 rounds I had a Proof stainless spun on because I wanted more speed. Looking back now, I should have just shot it out. It was NOT holding me back. But, I had an itch, and the new barrel scratched it.

In the 20” factory barrel the 140 ELD ammo was going around 2600fps. I was able to get 2680 with Reloader 16. The new barrel is slinging the 140 ELD ammo at 2800fps. So, I gained 200 fps.

Now, lets take a look at the difference. Keep in mind, this is just plugged into AB from my phone app, not exact, but you will get the point.

Both pics have the 140 ELD, both have a 10 mph, full value 3 o’clock crosswind. The yardage is 1000. The red highlights show the drop and wind in MRAD.

2600fps
View attachment 7163781

2800 fps
View attachment 7163782

Less than 2/10’s of a mill difference. Thats roughly 7 inchs between the two. Sure, the drop data is better, but gravity is constant. Wind is forever changing.

Just something to think about. I say keep it, learn the wind and do some matches.

What length did you go to, 200 FPS is a big increase

 

[Lunchbox27]

24” Proof stainless, from the 20” Tikka.

 

[tree man]

?

 

[patriot07]

I had a 20” CTR in 6.5 CM. At 800 rounds I had a Proof stainless spun on because I wanted more speed. Looking back now, I should have just shot it out. It was NOT holding me back. But, I had an itch, and the new barrel scratched it.

In the 20” factory barrel the 140 ELD ammo was going around 2600fps. I was able to get 2680 with Reloader 16. The new barrel is slinging the 140 ELD ammo at 2800fps. So, I gained 200 fps.

Now, lets take a look at the difference. Keep in mind, this is just plugged into AB from my phone app, not exact, but you will get the point.

Both pics have the 140 ELD, both have a 10 mph, full value 3 o’clock crosswind. The yardage is 1000. The red highlights show the drop and wind in MRAD.

2600fps
View attachment 7163781

2800 fps
View attachment 7163782

Less than 2/10’s of a mill difference. Thats roughly 7 inchs between the two. Sure, the drop data is better, but gravity is constant. Wind is forever changing.

Just something to think about. I say keep it, learn the wind and do some matches.

Really great post. Agree with everything.

I have a 24" factory CTR barrel. For some reason, my accuracy node is really speedy on this barrel and I'm getting 2,775 fps out of it with H-4350. Being in Texas with low altitude and high humidity, I need all the speed I can get. I had a Tikka Varmint 223 that was the opposite - accuracy node was really, really slow, and I couldn't even get it to 700 before going transonic/unstable. So I can relate to feeling like you should be getting better numbers than you are and paying a performance price for it.

All that being said, I have some new brass that I'm going to be loading for soon and I'll probably switch from H-4350 to RL16 for the extra speed. Too many good reports not to switch.

 

[Lunchbox27]

All that being said, I have some new brass that I'm going to be loading for soon and I'll probably switch from H-4350 to RL16 for the extra speed. Too many good reports not to switch.

I just did the opposite (moving back to H4350 from RL16). Getting powder in my state is a pain in the ass (Maryland). We're only allowed to purchase (online or in stores) 5lbs per house hold member. This means I'm buying online/in store (5) 1lb containers and hoping they're all the same lot. They never are, really.

My issue starts there. I have been reloading for a while now with probably 6-7 different powders and have never seen such a pressure/velocity swing (lot to lot difference) as I have with RL16. Recently I ran out of my one lot and switched to my 2nd lot of containers. My previous known charge was 40.6, pushing the 140eld at 2800fps. The second lot was 42.0, pushing the 140 eld at 2800fps. At 41.9 (2950fps) grains in the first lot, I was blowing primers. I have seen this a few times with RL16 and since I cannot find it in 8lbs anywhere in surrounding states, I've switched back to H4350. Usually I will see some velocity swings from lot to lot in H4350, maybe 30-40 fps but this was almost 80fps with RL16

Another thing to think about is RL16 is a lot dirtier than H4350. I got a carbon ring fast and it's added quite a bit of carbon to my suppressor. Not a huge deal if you are on top of your game with cleaning.

Just something to think about. Lots of people use RL16 with success. I probably would have stuck with it had I been able to acquire an 8lb jug a little easier.

 

[patriot07]

I just did the opposite (moving back to H4350 from RL16). Getting powder in my state is a pain in the ass (Maryland). We're only allowed to purchase (online or in stores) 5lbs per house hold member. This means I'm buying online/in store (5) 1lb containers and hoping they're all the same lot. They never are, really.

My issue starts there. I have been reloading for a while now with probably 6-7 different powders and have never seen such a pressure/velocity swing (lot to lot difference) as I have with RL16. Recently I ran out of my one lot and switched to my 2nd lot of containers. My previous known charge was 40.6, pushing the 140eld at 2800fps. The second lot was 42.0, pushing the 140 eld at 2800fps. At 41.9 (2950fps) grains in the first lot, I was blowing primers. I have seen this a few times with RL16 and since I cannot find it in 8lbs anywhere in surrounding states, I've switched back to H4350. Usually I will see some velocity swings from lot to lot in H4350, maybe 30-40 fps but this was almost 80fps with RL16

Another thing to think about is RL16 is a lot dirtier than H4350. I got a carbon ring fast and it's added quite a bit of carbon to my suppressor. Not a huge deal if you are on top of your game with cleaning.

Just something to think about. Lots of people use RL16 with success. I probably would have stuck with it had I been able to acquire an 8lb jug a little easier.

It sounds like you need a change of scenery - come on down to Texas - you can get gunpowder with your morning coffee if you'd like

 

[Lunchbox27]

I'd move to Texas in a heartbeat... now my wife, that's a different story.

 

[Graywolf.260]

I just did the opposite (moving back to H4350 from RL16). Getting powder in my state is a pain in the ass (Maryland). We're only allowed to purchase (online or in stores) 5lbs per house hold member. This means I'm buying online/in store (5) 1lb containers and hoping they're all the same lot. They never are, really.

My issue starts there. I have been reloading for a while now with probably 6-7 different powders and have never seen such a pressure/velocity swing (lot to lot difference) as I have with RL16. Recently I ran out of my one lot and switched to my 2nd lot of containers. My previous known charge was 40.6, pushing the 140eld at 2800fps. The second lot was 42.0, pushing the 140 eld at 2800fps. At 41.9 (2950fps) grains in the first lot, I was blowing primers. I have seen this a few times with RL16 and since I cannot find it in 8lbs anywhere in surrounding states, I've switched back to H4350. Usually I will see some velocity swings from lot to lot in H4350, maybe 30-40 fps but this was almost 80fps with RL16

Another thing to think about is RL16 is a lot dirtier than H4350. I got a carbon ring fast and it's added quite a bit of carbon to my suppressor. Not a huge deal if you are on top of your game with cleaning.

Just something to think about. Lots of people use RL16 with success. I probably would have stuck with it had I been able to acquire an 8lb jug a little easier.

So how much velocity are you losing changing to H4350?

 

[Lunchbox27]

I actually gained. The lot of RL16 I was using had a node at 2800. H4350 has me at 2820 with my low node. The next node up is showing pressure signs but that near 2880.