So I noticed the muzzle break on my Ruger RPR 6.5CM was not as level as it should be. As I tried to get it loosen up with a bar and a hella lot of force the barrel and muzzle break rotated clockwise a little, actually to where the muzzle break is now level. It was like 2 and 8 and now its 3 and 9. Guy at the range I was talking about was concerned about how the nut might be loose. Do I need to get in there? Barrel is tight and I can't move it by hand and firing is fine so far. I ordered a armorers wrench and all the go no go gauges anyway but just wanted to see what ya'll think.
Barrel moved while trying to index muzzle break
- Thread starter Thepopo
- Start date
100% check it with a head space guage. Mind you, 5 degrees on a 16 tpi thread is less than 0.001 of headapace. But 2 to 3 o'clock is 32.5 degrees or .005" of extra headapace.
^^^
What he said...
If you really did move it 1/12 revolution, you've increased headspace by quite a bit- likely too much. If you have a go gauge (preferable) or a correctly sized case, take a piece of Plastigage or thin electronics solder, put it on the boltface, squish it against the gauge/casehead and then mike it to measure your headspace.
If you handload, you'd need to account for that with your shoulder bump or you're gonna end up with a casehead separation in short order.
Were I you, I'd make it "right". Re-torque the barrel using a go gauge and then time the brake. Not sure what you had in mind- you can't just loosen a brake. If it's timed with a crush washer, the brake needs to be removed competely and a new crush washer installed. I'm guessing that's the case because factory rifles don't usually have brakes timed with hard shoulders.
Make sure to use a barrel vise this time
What he said...
If you really did move it 1/12 revolution, you've increased headspace by quite a bit- likely too much. If you have a go gauge (preferable) or a correctly sized case, take a piece of Plastigage or thin electronics solder, put it on the boltface, squish it against the gauge/casehead and then mike it to measure your headspace.
If you handload, you'd need to account for that with your shoulder bump or you're gonna end up with a casehead separation in short order.
Were I you, I'd make it "right". Re-torque the barrel using a go gauge and then time the brake. Not sure what you had in mind- you can't just loosen a brake. If it's timed with a crush washer, the brake needs to be removed competely and a new crush washer installed. I'm guessing that's the case because factory rifles don't usually have brakes timed with hard shoulders.
Make sure to use a barrel vise this time
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The rpr muzzle break is self timing, need to break the lock by loose and then unscrew the brake.^^^
What he said...
If you really did move it 1/12 revolution, you've increased headspace by quite a bit- likely too much. If you have a go gauge (preferable) or a correctly sized case, take a piece of Plastigage or thin electronics solder, put it on the boltface, squish it against the gauge/casehead and then mike it to measure your headspace.
If you handload, you'd need to account for that with your shoulder bump or you're gonna end up with a casehead separation in short order.
Were I you, I'd make it "right". Re-torque the barrel using a go gauge and then time the brake. Not sure what you had in mind- you can't just loosen a brake. If it's timed with a crush washer, the brake needs to be removed competely and a new crush washer installed. I'm guessing that's the case because factory rifles don't usually have brakes timed with hard shoulders.
Make sure to use a barrel vise this time
The move would have reduced head space I beleive. Barrel turned clockwise so less headspace.^^^
What he said...
If you really did move it 1/12 revolution, you've increased headspace by quite a bit- likely too much. If you have a go gauge (preferable) or a correctly sized case, take a piece of Plastigage or thin electronics solder, put it on the boltface, squish it against the gauge/casehead and then mike it to measure your headspace.
If you handload, you'd need to account for that with your shoulder bump or you're gonna end up with a casehead separation in short order.
Were I you, I'd make it "right". Re-torque the barrel using a go gauge and then time the brake. Not sure what you had in mind- you can't just loosen a brake. If it's timed with a crush washer, the brake needs to be removed competely and a new crush washer installed. I'm guessing that's the case because factory rifles don't usually have brakes timed with hard shoulders.
Make sure to use a barrel vise this time
^^^
Loosen... depends on which way you're looking at it; clockwise viewed looking from the receiver end would loosen threads on both barrel and brake
