Barrel or Stock??

Moose67

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Full Member
Minuteman
Apr 17, 2014
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Chandler, OK
Basically I'm new to LR shooting. I've got a Remmy 700 with a standard taper 22" barrel and hogue stock.

What I'd like to know is: would a new Criterion 28" bull barrel or new B&C M40 style stock most improve the accuracy?

I know the Hogue stock will most likely touch the bull barrel. And the standard taper barrel will vibrate more than the bull.

So I'm just curious in opinions on which should be the first (most improving) upgrade?

Thanks in advance guys!
 
Hmmm..... the Hogue is not a good stock for what you are trying to do; the barrel's not a good choice either. I'd start with the stock, at least to see what the factory barrel is capable of. Best thing to do would be spin the barrel off and send the action to a good smith for a new barrel, and send him the stock to bed the action into.


1911fan
 
You have a rifle which is less than ideal for LR, that's to say, strings of fire at LR will not be satisfactory for a multitude of reasons having to do with both stock and barrel. It will be less expensive for you to just trade your rifle for an appropriate one. An appropriate one is a rifle with a barrel not prone to warping, which is long enough to produce the sort of velocity needed for the bullet to reach the LR target nose on. Savage and Remington make this kind of rifle. The stock should have a mechanism to adjust comb height; and, an adjustable butt would be helpful for overall muscular relaxation, which is paramount to good results at LR. Since this sort of stock is very personal, buy a rifle with the inexpensive Hogue stock, which you can replace with an appropriate marksman stock which has the features and dimensions you need. Of course, you could build an appropriate rifle from your action; but, buying a match grade barrel and having it fitted to your action by a qualified gunsmith will cost more than a factory Savage or Remington barreled action with a throw-away stock.
 
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Or you could watch the fore sale section and pick up a better bull barrel used here and pick up a used stock today.

Ryan

This. Guys are many times wanting to upgrade their factory Remington 700. The gun may have had a Varmint/Sendaro contour barrel that's still got some life left in it and it's of little use to the owner. You could also place a "Want To Buy" thread in the PX section of the forum and see what turns up.
 
The first thing I'd look for is a better stock. I have not had good experiences with the Hogue stocks, and I can't say my recent experiences with the B&C stocks were much better. However, we see a lot of stock Rem 700 PSS rifles come through Rifles Only that shoot just fine (1moa or better), so a new barrel is not always the key to accuracy. I'd say a quality (HS, McMillan, Maners, AI) used stock would be a logical first purchase. You can bed the action into the stock yourself using Devcon bedding compound, and there are plenty of resources here on the hide to coach you through that process. You will be surprised at how much good rigid stock and a proper bedding job will improve accuracy.

Next item would be a barrel. You might look for a low round count used heavy barrel and have a smith screw it into your action. You might also consider a trigger job while you are having this done. Some time ago I picked up a Lothar-Walther .308 barrel in the fore sale section that turned out to be an absolute hammer of a barrel and it cost me $125.00 plus shipping. So if you are patient you can indeed find bargains. Keep in mind that optics are equally important, and if your scope, base, and rings won't hold zero or track properly everything else is in vain.
 
All of the previous posts hold excellent advice. As usual, I hold with a slightly different line of thought.

The rifle you have was bought for a different purpose than what you want it to do now. Does it do the original purpose well? Are you completely done with that purpose?

I would begin by seeing if I can develop the skills and consistency needed for the new purpose with the rifle as is. Proficiency with the new purpose comes from the shooter, and not the rifle.

Precision can come later, but will not come without the proficiency, regardless of the equipment.

That wear and tear you accumulate in this initial process is better accumulated on the old rifle than on the optimized rifle. Once you can be content with your basics, that's the time for upgrades, and the proper upgrade is a complete rifle; one that is better suited from the get go.

Start that process with something more basic, like a Varmint rifle. It can be a used rifle, and the for sale section here is a good place to look.

If new is your bottom line, start with Savage. Their variety of rifle models is huge, and I suspect you will find something there that suits your 'first LR rifle' needs very well. If they don't have it for this stage of your development, you may well be looking for the wrong rifle.

Meanwhile, the original purpose is still well suited to the original rifle.

This approach may appear slow, but it is also deliberate. Getting the process right is usually not compatible with speed. Buying into the upgrades will not necessarily deliver any improvement; one cannot buy accuracy, one can only buy the means to attain it.

Additional time can be useful, as it allows one to spread the expenses out over a more reasonable time. Moreover, I think the best investment in proficiency is ammunition, and less so, equipment.

My preferred aftermarket stock maker is McMillan, and for the barrel, I go directly to Lothar-Walther. With upgrades, cut no corners.

My first investment would be in an adequate, but not exorbitant, handloading capacity.

My second would be a Savage .223 Varmint rifle. Take a look at the Axis Heavy Barrel .223, for under $400. The Axis II Xp has DM, Accu-Trigger, and a reasonably decent Weaver 3-9x40 Kaspa Scope for about $100 more, but lacks the heavy barrel. That might change.

You can buy .223 ammo a lot more easily (and probably cheaper) than .22LR these days, and it's not especially expensive to reload it either. .223 is reloadable, .22LR is not.

I'm buying TulAmmo 55gr .223 in the 500rd spamcan, and collet pulling everything down to components. The steel cases are Boxer primed and reloadable (at least five times so far, do not try for max loads), and the resulting loads come out to about a quarter apiece.

It's not match ammo but it's at least as good as factory varmint loads (once one does the necessary load development). Aside from chamfering the inside of case necks (initially, to eliminate shaving bullets during seating), the reloading process is identical to using brass cases.

For the second and successive loads, I'm using my match load recipe with 69gr and 75gr Match bullets, with no visible performance difference from brass cased loads (my match loads are nearer the lighter side than the hot). So far, primer pocket growth has been a non-issue, and if a case can't be recovered, it's no great loss.

Greg
 
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