I don’t have a lathe so the relief cut is out. My options are about down to heating up the old barrel a little bit but don’t wanna damage my action. Thanks for y’all’s help if y’all have any more thoughts I’m all
The cost is pretty reasonable and usually about $50-$80. The amount of time it takes for them to get to it is an entirely different thing. You might get lucky and they get right to it but I’m not lucky and it was gonna be weeks.
I'm asking because I want to try and remove a factory Tikka but want a backup plan. wouldn't mind paying if it's going to be done better by a professional than me forcing it.
As a veteran of one factory Tikka barrel removal, I'd recommend a minimum of one week spent soaking the tenon threads with penetrating oil from inside the action (can even couple this with mildly heating the action with a heat gun), a barrel vise cranked down TIGHT, an action wrench clamped on TIGHT as close to the barrel as you can get it, as long of a handle/cheater as you can find on the action wrench, and a ~3 pound shop hammer.
Haha all I read was "it was not worth 75 bucks"As a veteran of one factory Tikka barrel removal, I'd recommend a minimum of one week spent soaking the tenon threads with penetrating oil from inside the action (can even couple this with mildly heating the action with a heat gun), a barrel vise cranked down TIGHT, an action wrench clamped on TIGHT as close to the barrel as you can get it, as long of a handle/cheater as you can find on the action wrench, and a ~3 pound shop hammer.
If I was going to do it again, I'd have a second person to load the action wrench to a couple hundred foot pounds (not exaggerating), then whack the hell out of the action wrench handle with the shop hammer in an effort to "shock" the threaded interface into coming loose.
Or pay someone with a lathe to make a relief cut.
haha that's a new one to me. I'm a big fan of PB blaster. Gonna have to try freezing my nuts sometime soon!
The freeze your nuts off sounds like the best solution. Heating the action will swell it slightly and the freezing of the inner area of the barrel will slightly shrink it. The only good I ever got out of my physics class was putting in bearing on my tractor by freezing them. The damn things wouldn’t go in place until I froze them and then they slipped right in. I’m gonna give your method a try next time. Thanks
Putting action wrenches on too tight is part of the problem....As a veteran of one factory Tikka barrel removal, I'd recommend a minimum of one week spent soaking the tenon threads with penetrating oil from inside the action (can even couple this with mildly heating the action with a heat gun), a barrel vise cranked down TIGHT, an action wrench clamped on TIGHT as close to the barrel as you can get it, as long of a handle/cheater as you can find on the action wrench, and a ~3 pound shop hammer.
If I was going to do it again, I'd have a second person to load the action wrench to a couple hundred foot pounds (not exaggerating), then whack the hell out of the action wrench handle with the shop hammer in an effort to "shock" the threaded interface into coming loose.
Or pay someone with a lathe to make a relief cut.
www.snipershide.com
When I did mine, I made sure that it was far enough back that I wasn't squeezing the action between the action wrench and the barrel tenon. That said, it IS possible that where I clamped the wrench distorted the action such that the action its self was basically oval-shaped which caused it to grip the tenon threads tighter. Hmmm.Putting action wrenches on too tight is part of the problem....
Tikka T3 Thread
I usually ask $150. But I also offer to cut/thread the barrel to buyers specs for free.
