I'm bedding a Ruger 10/22 into a wood stock. This is my first bedding attempt. I am using Marine-Tex. Could someone please walk me thru the process. Any tip on do's or don't would help alot. Pics would alos be really great. Thanks guys. Trent
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Gunsmithing Bedding a 10/22
- Thread starter summitsitter
- Start date
Re: Bedding a 10/22
I pillar bedded the action screw and 1.5" of the barrel along with the rear of the receiver. I used a bronze thrust bearing from True Value for a pillar.
I pillar bedded the action screw and 1.5" of the barrel along with the rear of the receiver. I used a bronze thrust bearing from True Value for a pillar.
Re: Bedding a 10/22
R&D Precision has a good DIY bedding article, and a quick trip to RimfireCentral.com will get you anything you wanted to know (and more) on 10/22 mods.
http://www.rdprecision.net/diy2.html
R&D Precision has a good DIY bedding article, and a quick trip to RimfireCentral.com will get you anything you wanted to know (and more) on 10/22 mods.
http://www.rdprecision.net/diy2.html
Re: Bedding a 10/22
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Hoser</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Bed the barrel, not the action. </div></div>
Could you elaborate on the how's to bed JUST the barrel?
Are there benefits of doing that over the action?
thanks,
Keith
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Hoser</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Bed the barrel, not the action. </div></div>
Could you elaborate on the how's to bed JUST the barrel?
Are there benefits of doing that over the action?
thanks,
Keith
Re: Bedding a 10/22
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: The Mechanic</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Yes all should be included in bedding kit. Brownell's would be best bet </div></div>
I did my first bedding job with the Brownells Acra-Glass kit. Very dissatisfying experience. Their mold release agent globbers on way too thick (it works great though).
In the end I just went with what everyone else here does - Kiwi neutral shoe polish as release agent and Devcon 10110 epoxy. It worked fantastically well, and the Kiwi polish is a lot easier to clean up than the Brownells mold release. Only mistake I made is I didn't cover the entire stock in blue painter's tape and had a little unseen epoxy leakage on my stock (which is soon to be Duracoated to hide its presence).
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: The Mechanic</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Yes all should be included in bedding kit. Brownell's would be best bet </div></div>
I did my first bedding job with the Brownells Acra-Glass kit. Very dissatisfying experience. Their mold release agent globbers on way too thick (it works great though).
In the end I just went with what everyone else here does - Kiwi neutral shoe polish as release agent and Devcon 10110 epoxy. It worked fantastically well, and the Kiwi polish is a lot easier to clean up than the Brownells mold release. Only mistake I made is I didn't cover the entire stock in blue painter's tape and had a little unseen epoxy leakage on my stock (which is soon to be Duracoated to hide its presence).
Re: Bedding a 10/22
A Ruger 10/22 while being a great mass production 22 is really weak in the receiver area. The barrel needs to be bedded.
A Ruger 10/22 while being a great mass production 22 is really weak in the receiver area. The barrel needs to be bedded.
Re: Bedding a 10/22
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Scimitar</div><div class="ubbcode-body">A Ruger 10/22 while being a great mass production 22 is really weak in the receiver area. The barrel needs to be bedded. </div></div>
Hey D-
Just the first inch or 2 or the whole barrel?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Scimitar</div><div class="ubbcode-body">A Ruger 10/22 while being a great mass production 22 is really weak in the receiver area. The barrel needs to be bedded. </div></div>
Hey D-
Just the first inch or 2 or the whole barrel?
Re: Bedding a 10/22
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Scimitar</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Lug where the action bolts in and two inches of barrel should be fine. </div></div>
That is what I thought. Check out my email and let me know what you think of my paint choices!!
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Scimitar</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Lug where the action bolts in and two inches of barrel should be fine. </div></div>
That is what I thought. Check out my email and let me know what you think of my paint choices!!
Re: Bedding a 10/22
It involves drilling and tapping two holes in the barrel and two pillars in the stock.
Then just free float the action and use a cantilevered scope mount.
If you use a decent barrel and good ammo, you can drive tacks with them.
Many Sportsmans Team Challenge guns are set up this way.
It involves drilling and tapping two holes in the barrel and two pillars in the stock.
Then just free float the action and use a cantilevered scope mount.
If you use a decent barrel and good ammo, you can drive tacks with them.
Many Sportsmans Team Challenge guns are set up this way.
Re: Bedding a 10/22
I believe in the concept of screwing down the bull barrel, and bedding it, and floating the receiver in a 10/22.
But when ever I see that done, it looses accuracy.
I don't understand why.
It is academic for me.
If I get 3/4" groups at 50y, then it is good enough.
I key off the misses in the dirt for how to correct my aim when I rain 22LR on rodents.
I believe in the concept of screwing down the bull barrel, and bedding it, and floating the receiver in a 10/22.
But when ever I see that done, it looses accuracy.
I don't understand why.
It is academic for me.
If I get 3/4" groups at 50y, then it is good enough.
I key off the misses in the dirt for how to correct my aim when I rain 22LR on rodents.
Re: Bedding a 10/22
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: sobrbiker883</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I pillar bedded the action screw and 1.5" of the barrel along with the rear of the receiver. I used a bronze thrust bearing from True Value for a pillar.
</div></div>
thats exactly how i did mine. first 2 inches of the barrel, the area around the pillar, and the rear of the receiver.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: sobrbiker883</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I pillar bedded the action screw and 1.5" of the barrel along with the rear of the receiver. I used a bronze thrust bearing from True Value for a pillar.
</div></div>
thats exactly how i did mine. first 2 inches of the barrel, the area around the pillar, and the rear of the receiver.
Re: Bedding a 10/22
That's how I did mine, but I've also beaded the whole area around the receiver (sides and back) for a nice tight fit. I've also turned a brass fitting into a pillar that was beaded into the stock. Make sure you coat and polish your action/barrel <span style="font-weight: bold">several times</span> w/release agent and use clay to avoid mechanical lock. If you search rimfirecentral, you'll find bunch of great info.
That's how I did mine, but I've also beaded the whole area around the receiver (sides and back) for a nice tight fit. I've also turned a brass fitting into a pillar that was beaded into the stock. Make sure you coat and polish your action/barrel <span style="font-weight: bold">several times</span> w/release agent and use clay to avoid mechanical lock. If you search rimfirecentral, you'll find bunch of great info.
Re: Bedding a 10/22
I bedded the front portion of my receiver and 2" of the barrel last night into a boyds thumbhole stock. I am going to go back today and bed a tiny section where the rear of the receiver contacts the stock. Be sure to add 2 layers of duct tape to your barrel so the barrel will be free floated when everything is done. I am using an adams and bennet barrel in this build.
I bedded the front portion of my receiver and 2" of the barrel last night into a boyds thumbhole stock. I am going to go back today and bed a tiny section where the rear of the receiver contacts the stock. Be sure to add 2 layers of duct tape to your barrel so the barrel will be free floated when everything is done. I am using an adams and bennet barrel in this build.
Re: Bedding a 10/22
When I made that 10/22 receiver from scratch, I planned to bed from the receiver face forward. It had a .900" straight barrel.
I bedded the barrel and "tang" if I can call it that(where the action screw is). So from the receiver face forward.
Left the action itself somewhat hanging.
Its pretty accurate.
When I made that 10/22 receiver from scratch, I planned to bed from the receiver face forward. It had a .900" straight barrel.
I bedded the barrel and "tang" if I can call it that(where the action screw is). So from the receiver face forward.
Left the action itself somewhat hanging.
Its pretty accurate.
Re: Bedding a 10/22
I have only built a half dozen 10/22 guns but I have not had a problem getting sub MOA performance out of them even using Adams & Bennett barrels. I bed from the front of the magazine forward to the tip of the forend. I too float the action as its only aluminum and not strong enough to support the weight of a .920" barrel without flexing. I also use a scope mount that uses 6 screws. The 4 in the receiver and 2 more holes I drilled and tapped in the barrel. This made a huge difference in repeatability on some worn used receivers I "modernized".
On a steel receiver that is threaded, I would reduce the bedding area under the barrel as the entire setup should be more rigid. The typical bed receiver and float the barrel would be the route to go in that setup.
I have only built a half dozen 10/22 guns but I have not had a problem getting sub MOA performance out of them even using Adams & Bennett barrels. I bed from the front of the magazine forward to the tip of the forend. I too float the action as its only aluminum and not strong enough to support the weight of a .920" barrel without flexing. I also use a scope mount that uses 6 screws. The 4 in the receiver and 2 more holes I drilled and tapped in the barrel. This made a huge difference in repeatability on some worn used receivers I "modernized".
On a steel receiver that is threaded, I would reduce the bedding area under the barrel as the entire setup should be more rigid. The typical bed receiver and float the barrel would be the route to go in that setup.
