Gunsmithing bedding and painting or painting and bedding?

AXEMAN

General Nuisance
Full Member
Minuteman
Sep 17, 2009
5,034
6
kansas, topeka
you can see my tutone rifle in my sig line. my goal is to bed the scope base and then bed the action. its an HS precision with an aluminum block. the savage 10 series all have a textured finish. so, bed it as is? bead blast and bed with bare metal? or blast it then have it painted and then bed it? just not sure which order to get. and really not sure what color i want at all so...yeah. thanks
 
Re: bedding and painting or painting and bedding?

You should complete any finnish work in the barreled action before bedding. Any finnish applied to steel (with the exception of blueing) but any spray on type will add size to your action/barrel. So if you bed it first and then increase its size even by only a .0005" thick layer thats .001" over sized and if properly bedded that will induce stress in to the bedding.
 
Re: bedding and painting or painting and bedding?

Depending on coating material honestly. Some stack and would make sense to coat rifle first then bed. The thinner finishes you could prolly get away with beding first finishing later though. One of the smiths is sure to chime in on this one.
 
Re: bedding and painting or painting and bedding?

ok, now some one pick a color for me, lol. i also wondered about the wax ill be using as a release agent. if i was to use krylon (im not going to use krylon) in a flat color, what would the wax do to it? im not concerned if i choose duracoat or similar. crap. ill just shoot it til i decide. hmmmm

the texture on it tells me not to bed it with out blasting it. i guess black would be a no brainer. silver or grey. maybe gray. or aluminum. or stainless. a cool anodized blue of some sort even. its not a hunting or duty rifle so camo isnt needed, but i like a dark urban scheme
 
Re: bedding and painting or painting and bedding?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jbell</div><div class="ubbcode-body">You should complete any finnish work in the barreled action before bedding. Any finnish applied to steel (with the exception of blueing) but any spray on type will add size to your action/barrel. So if you bed it first and then increase its size even by only a .0005" thick layer thats .001" over sized and if properly bedded that will induce stress in to the bedding. </div></div>

Not entirely accurate. It all depends on the finish.

Finish, in most cases, is the last thing I do.
 
Re: bedding and painting or painting and bedding?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: HateCA</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Finish in most cases is the last thing I do.
</div></div>

Same here. Using Gun Kote, Norrels Moly or any other ultra thin coating (< .0005" thick) has zero efect on the bedding job.
 
Re: bedding and painting or painting and bedding?

gun kote is a bake on cure isnt it? ceracoat too? its just duracoat thats not heat cured if im thinking right. duracoat i could shoot in my airbrush.


is duracoat thin enough? if applied with a badger 150 lets say, not slathering it on.


i guess it depends on me not laying it on too thick. im forming an idea after seeing 30calsnipers work. id only do single colors myself. if i go camo, i like one, ok 5 of his works, lol. ARP has a very pythonesque pattern that looks JUST like a reticulated. hmmm
 
Re: bedding and painting or painting and bedding?

IMHO, Duracoat and Cerekote are too thick to spray after bedding.
Gun Kote is a bake on product. Look at the air cure Gun Kote, I've never used it but they (KG) say it's thin as well.
 
Re: bedding and painting or painting and bedding?

Ax,
I blasted with alu ox. Glass polishes the metal a bit IMO.
Then coated with Duracoat and let it cure several weeks.
I haven't bedded the action and base yet but I plan to rough up the base and bed it to the coated action. I am using Kiwi neutral polish for the release agent.
I also hogged out the alu block in the HS stock behind the lug and roughed it up a bit along the receiver area.
 
Re: bedding and painting or painting and bedding?

in my case, i would have to paint/coat the action. the way it is now its coated with a textured finish. i cant see bedding that. so then id need it blasted. if i do that, it will be bare metal as the blasting will remove the bluing if they used a blued receiver as a base. i cant leave the action raw steel. it needs to be protected somehow. we have a few guys locally that duracoat. all ive seen in single colors from one, no examples from the other
 
Re: bedding and painting or painting and bedding?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: locked&loaded</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If you coat over the factory finish without blasting it first, the coating will not have a good surface to bind to.
It would probably peel off and stick to the bedding material. </div></div>



exactly. plus its thick. i want metal to epoxy. plus i will drill small dimples into the block and hog out the area where the lug lives so i can give the epoxy a mechanical lock
 
Re: bedding and painting or painting and bedding?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: AXEMAN</div><div class="ubbcode-body">ok, now some one pick a color for me </div></div>


Why not go with either the pink frog or pink camo pattern you suggested to me?

 
Re: bedding and painting or painting and bedding?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: former naval person</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Why not mask off the bedding areas, spray, cure the coatings and then bed? </div></div> That's the way that I do it.
 
Re: bedding and painting or painting and bedding?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 9sigman45</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: AXEMAN</div><div class="ubbcode-body">ok, now some one pick a color for me </div></div>


Why not go with either the pink frog or pink camo pattern you suggested to me?

</div></div>

that was for your bag. you know thats all you, its totally not my bag baby

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you know we cant clash, we would end up on yahoo's home page like when the stars wear the same outfit to a premier. besides i like darker colors
smile.gif
 
Re: bedding and painting or painting and bedding?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: The Shottist</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: former naval person</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Why not mask off the bedding areas, spray, cure the coatings and then bed? </div></div> That's the way that I do it. </div></div>

only bad part in my mind with that is that in this case, it would leave the action unprotected where it meets the bedding. if it was to get moisture in there inbetween the bedding and raw steel. me, i cant do that, it it were blued or stainless id do it. but to bed it, i have to blast it. thats gonna leave it raw, in the white basically. wont it? i guess i could cold blue it or use insta blue maybe.
 
Re: bedding and painting or painting and bedding?

I'm getting ready to bed, then paint, both my Mini and my son's Rem. 700 this weekend.
In our case, we're painting the entire guns, scopes/accessories and all "in place" on the weapons.
So it makes sense to do the bedding work first.

If I were doing only a stock, I would bed it first and then mask off the inside of the stock (bedded areas). About to try it for the first time, it's a messy process- why risk getting epoxy onto your fresh paint job?
 
Re: bedding and painting or painting and bedding?

well looking at the receiver, i had to take a burr off the bottom rear edge of the tang. plus i had to raise the action some. well while i was taping the parts off, i noticed that the bottom wasnt painted. i could see machining marks from the lathe. so i just bedded mine. im all nervous now waiting for the stuff to cure. i want to pull the action and trim while the glob under the barrel is still cuttable with a blade