Gunsmithing Bedding Materiall

[Padre]

I have a Savage action and a MacMillian A2 stock. Read some good post on how to do the bedding but have not seen any suggestions on what compound to use as the bedding material. Open for suggestions.

Also, do I gain anything by pillar bedding it? If so what size pillars from Brownells should I use?

Thanks for your insights.

Padre'

 

[cal50]

Devcon is good stuff for bedding.
Kiwi for release agent and plumbers putty for areas you do not want bedding flowing into.

 

[zx1963]

Cool on the shoe polish, I have always used car wax...

 

[Padre]

Thanks for the information

 

[GerryVa]

I like Acraglas , you can dye it black or brown. I use Johnson paste wax for a release agent. Do yourself a favor and scrape the oozing compound off with a popsickle stick and remove the tape from the stock as soon as possible. Any slight overflow onto the metal you can just let dry and it will pop right off the release agent. You can usually find pillars from Midway or Brownells, if you make them yourself they can be a tad short because the bedding will fill any void , you don't want them too long.

 

[LRI]

Acraglass uses nylon as a filler. Nylon is hydroscopic. It attracts moisture and holds onto it. Not the best idea against carbon steel.
Marine tex is a patch compound with very little solids. Pure resin is like a sidewalk made with only cement.

You want a resin with a high level of solids. The solids act as the load bearing surface. The resin is merely the binder to hold it together. Ensure your chosen product is a true epoxy and not polyester like fiberglass resin. Poly will shrink more and turn into a booger if its exposed to petroleum based solvents.

Get a resin with a long open clamp time. Fast cure resins shrink more and make you rush the job. Bedding is something that needs to be drama free if you want a quality job.


Experience is never cheap....

Devcon makes some good stuff.

 

[308FMJ]

Steel-Bed from Brownells, very good stuff. All i ever use!
Jim

 

[trigger29]

Acraglass uses nylon as a filler. Nylon is hydroscopic. It attracts moisture and holds onto it. Not the best idea against carbon steel.
Marine tex is a patch compound with very little solids. Pure resin is like a sidewalk made with only cement.

You want a resin with a high level of solids. The solids act as the load bearing surface. The resin is merely the binder to hold it together. Ensure your chosen product is a true epoxy and not polyester like fiberglass resin. Poly will shrink more and turn into a booger if its exposed to petroleum based solvents.

Get a resin with a long open clamp time. Fast cure resins shrink more and make you rush the job. Bedding is something that needs to be drama free if you want a quality job.


Experience is never cheap....

Devcon makes some good stuff.

I would use whatever this guy uses.......... If I just knew what it was. (go ahead and ask....He's not telling) His bedding jobs are AMAZING!

 

[LRI]

I would use whatever this guy uses.......... If I just knew what it was. (go ahead and ask....He's not telling) His bedding jobs are AMAZING!

Very appreciated. Materials are important however nothing overshadows the prep work that goes into a well executed bedding job. I've devoted a decade to obtain the results I'm after. As nice as they are I'm still not completely satisfied.

As time allows ive got some new ideas I want to explore.

Time will tell. ..

C

 

[trigger29]

Now I'm just curious if my stock can be fixed. I'm fighting the urge to call and see how its going so you can get some work done.

 

[LRI]

Now I'm just curious if my stock can be fixed. I'm fighting the urge to call and see how its going so you can get some work done.

The challenge I'm constantly faced with is getting to the customer before he starts pulling the trigger on parts. Stocks in particular. I don't "skin bed" stocks. Everything I do is inletted here in the shop. My process is vastly different from the status quo. Whether its better or not I leave to the masses to judge. It's better for me this way as I have certain rules that I adhere to.

As a result the process is more expensive. Much more than what guys are used to paying. It's because I'm doing work that normally you'd pay the stock maker to do. When it all comes out in the wash were about $150 more than a competitor. With what I'm able to offer, I hope the difference in price is justified. Again, I leave that to the client to decide.

Also, I don't go out of my way to stock Savage actions. Due to the pillar arrangement and the physical size of the trigger group, it's just proven itself to be more work than what I really want to take on. Thanks for understanding.

C.

 

[Jmilera]

Chad do you bed HS stocks for your builds?

 

[ackleyfan]

The challenge I'm constantly faced with is getting to the customer before he starts pulling the trigger on parts. Stocks in particular. I don't "skin bed" stocks. Everything I do is inletted here in the shop. My process is vastly different from the status quo. Whether its better or not I leave to the masses to judge. It's better for me this way as I have certain rules that I adhere to.

As a result the process is more expensive. Much more than what guys are used to paying. It's because I'm doing work that normally you'd pay the stock maker to do. When it all comes out in the wash were about $150 more than a competitor. With what I'm able to offer, I hope the difference in price is justified. Again, I leave that to the client to decide.

Also, I don't go out of my way to stock Savage actions. Due to the pillar arrangement and the physical size of the trigger group, it's just proven itself to be more work than what I really want to take on. Thanks for understanding.

C.

What is your price to bed a Rem 700 action?

 

[GerryVa]

Absolutely beautiful work.

 

[whatmeworry_45]

I just did my Savage 10FP in a Mcmillan, and considering that it was my first bedding job and all, it wasn't nearly as difficult as i had imagined it would be. I spent more time agonizing over all the different ways I could mess it up than I really should have. I used Marine Tex, and did not pillar bed the rear. It already had a pillar in the front. I did not think it was worth the effort to install a rear pillar as its so close to the trigger housing and half of it is out in wide open space anyway. Also left the rear tang area floating.

This rifle went from 1.5" groups at best to well under 1 MOA 5 shot groups, off a bipod and sand sock in the prone. This is about as good a group as my shitty eyes will ever be capable of, so, good enough for me.

 

[gewehr]

Chad's level of fit and finish in the end product are without competition, we'll worth every penny more than factory inlet

 

[downlow]

Devcon is good stuff for bedding.
Kiwi for release agent and plumbers putty for areas you do not want bedding flowing into.

Same way I do it.