Beginner trying to learn to shoot

Shawny

Private
Minuteman
Jul 3, 2014
11
11
Hi guys and especially girls!

Long story short, I tumbled across this site every now and then when googling about shooting so I decided it's a good idea to create a profile and start posting. I'm turning 30 in a few years and bought my first rifle, or actually rifles, last autumn and since then I've been trying to hit better...

About my background: I've been trying to become a hunter for years, but the only places where I have been able to hunt have been far away. Also, during my studies, the time and money were more than often needed for something more important, such as beer or books. During the past two years I've managed to gain just a little bit of hunting experience, and I've shot my first birds (with a shotgun). But the shotgun shooting isn't why I registered here.

Last autumn I suddenly, for the first time in my life, had some money to spend on a rifle. I bought a used Tikka M65 in .30-06 which happened to be for sale nearby. For cheaper and more silent practice I also bought a rimfire and ended up buying a cheap Russian TOZ with a cheap scope and a silencer. I also happened to come together with a cheap (if you can say that) Zeiss Classic 3-12 x 56, which I bought and bolted on top of my Tikka rifle. These rifles have never been used in hunting yet, but it's a matter of months before that will happen. The main game to be hunted is, which might seem a bit odd, are moose and birds. Yeah, they aren't very similar, but these are the two I can hunt where I live. Both of these will be mostly shot with the .30-06 because of the laws we have here (.22LR is not legal for most of the birds I'm looking for). The moose hunting demands for abilities to shoot a moving target fast, and bird hunting is closer to long distance sniping. I'd like to become a lot better in both, but probably because of some mental problems being able to shoot long distances seems to be more important for my self esteem :D I just want be able to hit a coin in 100 meters more often than my friends, even if that's obsolete.

As most of you have already probably noticed, my native language isn't English. It doesn't actually matter where I'm from, but I'll give you a hint: the city where I come from happens to be the hometown of a quite known gun manufacturer also known for one of the best sniper rifles in the world.

The reason why I created a profile is that in my other hobbies and topics I've interested in I've found that discussion forums are a great source for knowledge and the best way to get it and give it back is to be active in the discussions. I want to become a better shooter, and the best way seems to be shooting, the second best way seems to be dry practicing, and the third best is to discuss with people smarter than myself.

As I said, I'm a beginner, and most of my problems, questions and solutions will be those beginners are struggling with. The last time I went to the range and shot 8 groups of 3 shots, the average group of three shots at 100 metres was around 40 mm (1.4 MOA) and I think me and my gun should be able to do better. In this topic I try to raise discussion about what should be done to make it better. With my rimfire I'm probably able to shoot 19 shotgun shells out of 20 from 50 meters away. My best groups of five with the rimfire has been 7 mm from center to center and the best group of three with my centerfire rifle was 25 mm. The average with both guns is more than 1 MoA but every now and then I do better than that, mostly with the rimfire.

My current set-up is as follows:
-Tikka M65 .30-06, hunting stock, thin barrel, less than 300 shots fired through the barrel
-Zeiss Classic 3-12 x 56
-Quality bases
-Cheap but solid bipod
-Sand bag to be used below the gun stock
-Factory ammunition

When I'm going to the range next time, the following things will change:
-The bipod is not going to rest on concrete but on a softer pad to reduce the effect of recoil
-I'm going to build a temporary cheek rest from duct tape and sleeping pad. I've been shooting without any kind of cheek weld and from what I tried in my living room, even a folded T-shirt between the cheek and stock makes a huge difference. A hunting stock designed for iron sights and a 56 mm scope isn't a perfect combination.
-I'm going to let the barrel cool down for a while between the shots. Now I've been firing 3-5 shots at intervals of about 10-20 seconds which might cause weird things with thin barreled guns if I'm right. I'm not in hurry, so why hurry?
-Concentrate better in the trigger action, place my palm the same way each shot and concentrate on placing my finger on the trigger more consistently.

From practicing and testing my prone position in the living room I'd say it's difficult to get the stock firmly on your shoulder when you're in prone position. When standing it's not a problem as the rifle is mostly designed for shooting while standing, but I guess there's a reason why sniper rifles look the way they do... It seems the stock could be longer, the cheek pad should be way higher and the wrist should be in a more vertical position to get a firm stance.

I'm not trying to make my gun into a sniper rifle, and definitely not trying to change it into a benchrest gun. I'm trying to make myself a better shooter with better abilities in killing the game and not wounding it. I want to be able to trust myself and my guns when I must hit. Plus I want to shoot tighter groups than most of my friends :D

Oh yeah, I also took a two day course about sniping. The course didn't cover too much about the shooting technique but was merely about ballistics, which of course was also useful. At least now I know it's not important how tight groups a sniper shoots from 100 meters, because a good shooter can be a terrible sniper if that tight group is not where it should be when shooting from longer distances.

I try to keep this post alive and update what I learn, think and realize.
 
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Welcome Shawny.

Please make sure you read the newbie thread and also take a look at the instructional videos here - they will help a lot.

A couple of recommendations:

1. Not sure that a softer pad on the bipod is going to reduce recoil - additionally, you want a solid base for the bipod to provide you the most stable platform. Think about it from the standpoint of the ignition to the bullet leaving the end of the barrel...the more the gun moves during this period, it doesn't matter what you have done up to that point on lining up your shot...

2. Get some snap-caps and practice dry-firing. Get set up, aim, pull trigger and make sure the gun doesn't move and is still right where you pointed it after pulling the trigger. You can also use a cleaning rod out the end of the barrel and have a friend balance a dime on the top of the rod once you are in position. Then do your trigger pull and work on not making the dime drop.

3. Ixnay on the nipersay
 
Hi, and thanks for your comments.

I guess I expressed myself poorly, of course placing the bipod on a softer surface doesn't actually reduce the recoil. As we all know, the gun starts to vibrate when the gunpowder is burning and the bullet is pushed, and if the bipod is on hard concrete, even a small wave traveling down the legs may make it jump as there's very little elasticity to allow any movement. If there's something like a mouse pad below the bipod legs, it doesn't make it any less stable but when the gun starts to "ring" when the bullet is traveling through the barrel, the moused pad or sandy ground etc allows a slight vibration without throwing the gun anywhere whereas concrete doesn't. Here's some discussions and very reliable internet claims :)D ) about this issue: Bipods on a hard surface... - The Firing Line Forums

I've been practicing dry-firing and I guess it has become better. When I was learning how to shoot better from standing position with my rimfire I realized that especially shooting when standing is all about how you use the trigger. I think my wrist is a bit uncomfortable when I'm shooting from prone position, but I guess that's just something you need to get used to when shooting a hunting rifle not designed for that. I guess I'll try a looser grip on the pistol grip and keep my thumb on the right side of the pistol grip next time. It feels better and I think I can get a better feel on the trigger. I tried the coin trick one day but I must say it feels very difficult. What makes it drop is the ringing of the barrel after the shot, not my vigorous trigger pull. It's very tricky to keep it there even if the gun is on bipod, butt pad on the floor, and I push it against the floor and pull the trigger very slowly. How many of more experienced shooters can really say you can do that?

Your third point I kind of missed :p
 
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Ok, some quick updates.

Previously, I decided to concentrate on the following, and this is what happened:
-The bipod is not going to rest on concrete but on a softer pad to reduce the effect of recoil
Done, but I really couldn't see any big difference. Anyways, it's another possible problem solved before it became a problem...
-I'm going to build a temporary cheek rest from duct tape and sleeping pad. I've been shooting without any kind of cheek weld and from what I tried in my living room, even a folded T-shirt between the cheek and stock makes a huge difference. A hunting stock designed for iron sights and a 56 mm scope isn't a perfect combination.
I did, and it feels pretty good. I used self adhesive camo tape, duct tape and sleeping pad. Ugly and functional, which is just the way I like it.
-I'm going to let the barrel cool down for a while between the shots. Now I've been firing 3-5 shots at intervals of about 10-20 seconds which might cause weird things with thin barreled guns if I'm right. I'm not in hurry, so why hurry?
I did this a few times, but I'm not sure if it made any difference or not.
-Concentrate better in the trigger action, place my palm the same way each shot and concentrate on placing my finger on the trigger more consistently.
This is something I really need to concentrate on. When I cold practice, it feels almost great, but when there's a bullet waiting, I spend way too much time on the trigger.

On my previous visit to the shooting yard I shot at 150 metres. The best three-shot group was 24 mm, which is about 0,6 MOA (which is awesome), but on average they were somewhere around 1,3 MOA. 40% of the groups were 1 MOA or less, so I guess the rifle could do that if I could.

It also seems like the 8 g / 123 gr bullets I used before might be a bit too light for the rifle with 10'' twist and slightly heavier ones shoot tighter.

I'm heading to the range again this week and this time there will be a colleague with a long shooting experience and a relatively accurate varmint rifle. He says he's been shooting repeatedly about 3/4 MOA at 300 metres with the gun, so it's interesting to see what I can achieve with his gun and vice versa.
 
Both pretty funny and embarrassing to decide to register to the forum, receive a notification that the email is already in use, and find out I already registered almost ten years ago! Time really flies.

Well, I guess it's time for update. I would say I've managed to learn to shoot adequately since the beginning of this thread. Most of the time I've been overly busy with kids, work, old house, old cars etc, but it's fair to say I've shot thousands of rounds since the beginning of this thread. I still have the same old Tikka, but I've since bought a CZ527 in .223 Rem, updated my 22LR to a T1x and also bought a .17 HMR. I consider myself to nowadays be a relatively OK shooter and I've overcome the majority of the angst I had in my younger days.

I'd say my learning curve has been:
1)Try to shoot cheap factory ammo and disappoint
2)Get into reloading, notice that I'm able to occasionally get really nice grouping
3)Try to tighten the groups and learn to shoot even smaller groups
4)Occasionally disappoint when you thought you had a killer load and when you have a batch loaded and go shooting, it's not as great as it was supposed to be
5)Understanding that group size is less important than the ability to shoot and read wind, and when you put enough holes on the paper it rarely is sub 0.5 MOA in real life.

I'm still trying to get more into the long range stuff, but is sure is a bit complicated due to lack of longer shooting ranges. My 22LR serves as a nice training rig that enables messing with windage and elevation on shorter ranges, and occasionally I'm able to get to longer ranges to have fun with the centerfires. However, with two small kids it's not as often as I'd like...

So the understanding has grown a lot, the skills a bit, experience quite a lot, and the basic problem still exists; I'd still want to be able to shoot better :D