Re: Benchguns, anyone into em?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: brand692</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: GUNNER75</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I don't have one, and the local range is setting up for 600 benchrest. What the hell, I'll play. Always wanted to build one and have the opportunity to do so fairly quick.
Anyone into it? This is my recipe so far, subject to change. Please give me your thoughts on this type of project.
-6BR </div></div><span style="color: #FF0000">YES. Best 600m cartridge available. And like Dave said, go with the .272 neck and a .104 freebore. This will allow you to shoot the heavies, and keep brass prep to a minimum. With a .104FB, you can can seat the heavies long, and maintain case capacity for the hot loads (31gr Varget and up). Who really wants to turn necks when a no turn neck and the Lapua brass is just as competitive as the neck turned stuff?</span>
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: GUNNER75</div><div class="ubbcode-body">-Nesika round action, right bolt, left port, single shot, square tang.</div></div> <span style="color: #FF0000">Decent choice, but BAT is the top dog, and only a few dollars more. Also consider the RBLPRE version. The Right Eject is nice to have for cycling purposes on a right handed shooter. If you go with a Stiller, the Viper is offered in a drop port which is nice as well.</span>
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: GUNNER75</div><div class="ubbcode-body">-Shilen 8 twist, 28" long, #7HV, 1.250 to 5" and .875 @31" (or have a #17 or #18 Kreiger 8 twist available)</div></div> <span style="color: #FF0000">Savageguy over on 6mmbr.com has Kreigers in stock. Make sure to know your class/range weight requirements. You may be able to go a little heavier depending on the weight of the rest of the components. If you like shooting the Lapua Scenar, they favor a tight bore (.236) otherwise the standard bore (.237) will launch anything but the </span>
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: GUNNER75</div><div class="ubbcode-body">-Brake? Maybe. </div></div><span style="color: #FF0000">Not allowed in most BR classes, but check the class you want to compete in and local/club rules. Not needed for a 6BR anyways. Again, a weight factor that you could avoid. </span>
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: GUNNER75</div><div class="ubbcode-body">-Jewell Trigger (no safety or bottom safety) </div></div><span style="color: #FF0000">Go with the no safety option.</span>
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: GUNNER75</div><div class="ubbcode-body">-Stock, ???? Haven't built one yet, may run something different, similar to Shehane Tracker??? </div></div><span style="color: #FF0000"> Shehane makes a fantastic stock. Also, McMillan and there are some really nice redwood/carbon fiber laminates that are pretty cool for a one-off custom look.</span>
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: GUNNER75</div><div class="ubbcode-body">-Scope, 45x Leupold or NF 12-42x56 NXS </div></div> <span style="color: #FF0000"> I won't get on my soap box with the 45x Leupold, but I quit using them when I shot BR due to canted reticles. They also suffer from the Parralax backlash issue that plagues the SF Leupolds. I would avoid the NXS at least right now, as they only offer .250 MOA adjustments. In the BR game, precision is everything and .125MOA adjustments are where its at. Plus, the BR model is cheaper. So for the NF line, I would get a BR model. Another hot option is the BR lineup from March</span>
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: GUNNER75</div><div class="ubbcode-body">-Kelby rings or Nightforce </div></div> <span style="color: #FF0000">Keep them as light as possible. Good sturdy rings are must, but you don't need the heavy duty ones as they weigh too much.</span>
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: GUNNER75</div><div class="ubbcode-body">-already have a great rest, rear bags, etc. </div></div> <span style="color: #FF0000">These are paramount, and can be expensive. Its nice to start off with a nice set.</span>
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: GUNNER75</div><div class="ubbcode-body">-6BR Lapua brass, etc. </div></div> <span style="color: #FF0000">Yes.</span>
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: GUNNER75</div><div class="ubbcode-body">-Thoughts? </div></div> <span style="color: #FF0000">Keep the weight out of the optics, bases, and rings, and keep it in the gun. Don't think hanging a huge tube off a flimsy stock is a good idea. A well balanced stock is just as important as the heaviest contour barrel you can get.
These are my opinions. There are tons of good options out there. The guys over at 6mmbr will really help you out. YMMV</span>
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Great advice, print it, do it, and move on.
