Benefits of using a universal decapping die?

[vigildom7]

Alright everyone so as the title says whats the benefits to using this before an actual sizing die?
So my current pattern is once I get home from the range I'll tumble for a few minutes to get the grim off then I'll anneal the brass then run through the Hornady match bushing dies that sizes and deprimes and uses the bushing to set neck tension. I've also noticed that if i have a case mouth dent it doesn't fix the dent using the bushing,
do you all recommend using a universal die then removing the decapping stem from the hornady die using that to size?

 

[Patty]

My favorite way to resize brass is to decapp with a universal decapper, Resize with a bushing die (no decapper installed) .003-.004 smaller than a loaded round, and then run it through an expanding mandrel to set final neck size/tension. It smooths out any case mouth dents, and pushes any thickness inconsistencies to the outside of the neck.

check out the custom ground mandrels from K&M, you can specify the neck tension you want and they will make you a mandrel.

Specifically pertaining to your question though, i like to use a decapper instead of the sizing die because i dont like to run dirty brass through my sizer. i decap, then clean it, and then continue on with my sizing process mentioned above.

 

[vigildom7]

I'll give that a try!

 

[natdscott]

No, no I do not recommend that.

Punch the primers out with a punch (wilson) and base (wilson). It is WAY faster than anything press operated as a separate process.

So once that is done, they get tumbled clean, and the rest of the process goes as normal:

1) Deprime manually with Wilson punch and base (ALL brass gets this process)
2) Tumble clean, including pockets. Not trying for stupid-clean either.
3) Check for media in pockets, towel off dust, etc. If wet, allow to dry.
4) Anneal if intended.
5) Clean pockets, if desired/applicable, with uniformer.
6) Lube, then size in FL die with or without bushing, with or without button.
7) Inside lube, then bump neck back UP with desired mandrel, if applicable.
8) Short tumble to remove lube, if applicable.
9) Re-towel off brass.
10) Trim.
11) Deburr inside/out.
12) Prime for -0.003" anvil seating; seal primer, if desired/needed.
13) Powder; thrown for 300y or less, maybe weighed for longer range than that. Maybe.
14) Seat, label, store.

 

[natdscott]

And if you are not neck turning Redding recommends using a bushing .004 smaller than a loaded round and use the expander that come with the die.

Redding recommending it doesn't mean it's always a good idea.

-Nate

 

[flyer]

To me, one of the main benefits is to not get shut down if you break the decapping pin in a full length sizing die.

Just keep a couple universal decapping die pin spares (or even an entire decapping die) and never worry about covering spares for different brand sizing dies.

Use it in a separate cheapo press and you'll keep the grime away from the sizing and seating.

 

[FLIGHT762]

And if you are not neck turning Redding recommends using a bushing .004 smaller than a loaded round and use the expander that come with the die.

WTF? When I bought my Redding bushing dies, Redding recommended a bushing size .001" smaller then loaded round. Been using this for years with great results, WTF have I been missing? What happened?

 

[natdscott]

Which would be why I tend to FL size (no ball) then mandrel.

 

[BurnOut]

The main benefits to me are, as someone else said, the ability to decap before the first tumbling without running dirty cases through my sizing die, and the isolation of each brass prep operation... helps minimize the influence of each operation on the others.

 

[ZEROGUY]

I prime my brass on my press and run all cases through a decapping die during the operation to ensure no tumbling media is still in the case, primer pocket or flash hole.

I only tumble after all my case prep (unless brass is exceptionally nasty, then I'll tumble before and after). This is the only use I've found for a decapping die for my process.