I'm looking for a scope with a Horus reticle to put on a Bergara B-14r Steel that would be good for both .22lr at competition ranges and for training for larger caliber rifles at longer ranges. Essentially, something that I could take off the .22lr rifle and put on a .308 B-14, but will perform equally well between 25 yards and 1000 yards. Any recommendations? Or are those two purposes mutually exclusive?
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Rifle Scopes Best .22lr scope for both training and competition
- Thread starter Bran028
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Give us a call at 916-670-1103 and we'd be happy to help you select the correct scope for your setup 
Can't help with the reticle, but what you really need to look for is a parallax adjustment which goes down to 25 yards or less. Some scopes will only have parallax down to 50 yards, so unsuitable for rimfire. I think one scope could easily do both. Your zero will not quite stay the same though when you swap the scope (or actually remove the mount with the scope in it) between rifles as it will not mount back on in exactly, 100% the same place as last time. Additionally your zero for 22LR and 308 will not be at the same elevation on your scope and you will have to remember each one. So I'd buy two scopes if you have the budget.
^ OK, probably best to pick either the 308 or the 22 and set your scope turret to zero, for the zero of that rifle, which will mean the zero on the scope turret on the other rifle is a bit out of whack, or is zero at some odd distance. Makes sense to have the turret zero for impact zero for the 308. That is where you will be dialling the big elevations for 1000 yard shooting. The 22 won't need much elevation adjustment until you go beyond 50 yards. I would still buy two scopes though, even if you buy two of the same scope. The thought of taking off and remounting a scope onto a 1000 yard 308 rifle gives me the heebie jeebies. It's just asking for trouble you don't need at about $1 a shot, getting it back right at the range isn't free. Haven't used a Horus reticle but it looks a bit cluttered for a 22LR.
If you do use one scope across both rifles, then I recommend you invest in a torque driver to tighten your bases. At least that will get you some more consistency.
If you do use one scope across both rifles, then I recommend you invest in a torque driver to tighten your bases. At least that will get you some more consistency.
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This is the unforunate reality of setting up a 22lr trainer
its another $500 or $1k (or $3K, whatever
) +1 optic.
its another $500 or $1k (or $3K, whatever
) +1 optic.
I think you'll find its impractical. Once you take the time to get your scope dialed in on your 22, the last thing you'll wanna do it take it off to move it to another gun. Same for the 308, as said above, it will cost $$ to zero, and to take it off after spending that time and money to zero doesn't make sense. I imagine on the 22, you'll be taking time going through different match ammo to find what your gun likes, so that ain't gonna be exactly cheap either. I had the same idea of using the same scope for two rifles, and it didn't make sense once I got to figuring out how it was gonna work.
Think of it as getting 2 cool new scopes.
Think of it as getting 2 cool new scopes.
The requirement that will knock most scopes out of the running is the rimfire 25yd parallax.
Bushnell just made a limited run of HDMRs that will focus that far down and have a H59 reticle.
www.bushnell.com
I went down a deep rabbit hole when glass shopping for my B14r steel and wound up going with a Kahles K525i. My wife is building up a B14r carbon rifle and looking at US Optics TS-20 or NF NX8 4-32 as weight and a simple reticle are big requirements for her.
Bushnell just made a limited run of HDMRs that will focus that far down and have a H59 reticle.
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I went down a deep rabbit hole when glass shopping for my B14r steel and wound up going with a Kahles K525i. My wife is building up a B14r carbon rifle and looking at US Optics TS-20 or NF NX8 4-32 as weight and a simple reticle are big requirements for her.
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Have you used one? Or are you using it as a generic term for a christmas tree style?
Also what is your price range? It's important to know.
Are you wanting to frequently switch the optic between rifles?
If so this will largely dictate what scope to go for, yes parallax down to 25yards is important too.
I have a 3-15x44 PST on my 22lr which I have grown very fond of, I've often thought about upgrading it or getting more magnification but it seems so well suited to my rifle and I shoot well with it so see no need to change it.
If I were wanting to switch the scope between rifles I'd have to look at something else though as the turret/ZS construction doesn't lend itself well to switch between rifles.
Vortex is good as they offer a range of scopes (Diamondback, Strike Eagle, PST, Razor, AMG) all with the same reticle which means you can just get used to the one reticle with many different price points.
If you were just wanting the one scope though you'd be better suited to something like the Delta Stryker which toolless zero/locking turrets work very well for switching between rifles (so long as your mount/rings are repeatable). Seems like the Trijicon and Eotech Vudu have similar turrets to the Delta but I have not used them.
Looking at the design of the 5-25 Strike Eagle I think that may work well for re-sestting zero on different rifles also.
If so this will largely dictate what scope to go for, yes parallax down to 25yards is important too.
I have a 3-15x44 PST on my 22lr which I have grown very fond of, I've often thought about upgrading it or getting more magnification but it seems so well suited to my rifle and I shoot well with it so see no need to change it.
If I were wanting to switch the scope between rifles I'd have to look at something else though as the turret/ZS construction doesn't lend itself well to switch between rifles.
Vortex is good as they offer a range of scopes (Diamondback, Strike Eagle, PST, Razor, AMG) all with the same reticle which means you can just get used to the one reticle with many different price points.
If you were just wanting the one scope though you'd be better suited to something like the Delta Stryker which toolless zero/locking turrets work very well for switching between rifles (so long as your mount/rings are repeatable). Seems like the Trijicon and Eotech Vudu have similar turrets to the Delta but I have not used them.
Looking at the design of the 5-25 Strike Eagle I think that may work well for re-sestting zero on different rifles also.
strike eagle 5-25
meets both uses and budget friendly.
and when you upgrade and get a razor gen 2 for the 308 its the same reticle and manual of arms
meets both uses and budget friendly.
and when you upgrade and get a razor gen 2 for the 308 its the same reticle and manual of arms
Burris XTR3 with SCR2 my first choice. Best FOV, ret, 25 yd paralax, target knobs, and glass of scopes listed below. Also made in USA. Right here in Colorado. I own or have owned all the scopes listed.
Second would be tie between
Vortex Razor Gen1 5-20
Bushnell HDMR 3-21
Luppy Mk 5
SWFA 5-20
Burris XTR2 4-20 with Horus
GL!
DT
Second would be tie between
Vortex Razor Gen1 5-20
Bushnell HDMR 3-21
Luppy Mk 5
SWFA 5-20
Burris XTR2 4-20 with Horus
GL!
DT
Bran-
I agree with recommendations on going with 2 identical scopes or at least 2 scopes from a manufacturer with the same reticle.
There are a lot of good options out there and as Frank would say, pick your favorite color (as in buy what your eye likes best in terms of reticle design within your budget).
I started with a very simple reticle, then went to a more complex reticle, then settled on a low density x-max tree reticle with a floating dot center.
For a budget scope that has very decent glass and excellent tracking, the Arken SH4 gen2 might fit the billet for $399. I ordered one but it’s 7-9 weeks on back order. Hopefully it’ll arrive for X-mas.
YMMV and happy shooting.
I agree with recommendations on going with 2 identical scopes or at least 2 scopes from a manufacturer with the same reticle.
There are a lot of good options out there and as Frank would say, pick your favorite color (as in buy what your eye likes best in terms of reticle design within your budget).
I started with a very simple reticle, then went to a more complex reticle, then settled on a low density x-max tree reticle with a floating dot center.
For a budget scope that has very decent glass and excellent tracking, the Arken SH4 gen2 might fit the billet for $399. I ordered one but it’s 7-9 weeks on back order. Hopefully it’ll arrive for X-mas.
YMMV and happy shooting.
With a quality scope and mount/rings you won't have issues with the scope returning to zero when swapped between guns.
When I had a Schmidt sitting in a Spuhr mount I was able to entirely disassemble my rifle (barrel and brake removed from action, etc.) and put it back together with the zero shifting a grand total of 0.1 MRAD, which was within the usual margin for error from day to day variances in my 100 yard zero based on ambient conditions. Just moving the scope in its rings/mount from one rifle to another will not cause any worse of a shift than that, and it hasn't caused any measurable shift in my experience. I'm now using a TT in Hawkins rings and have zero issues swapping between my Mausingfield build and a B-14R of my own.
The only real concern I would have is the focus distance. A Schmidt PMII is fantastic in that respect since they focus down to 25 feet, but any scope that focuses to 25 yards will be sufficient and from there you can pick your price point to determine exactly which scope you want. The only thing I am disappointed by in the TT is the close focus distance, but I don't ever shoot much closer than 50 yards anyways to worry a lot about it.
When I had a Schmidt sitting in a Spuhr mount I was able to entirely disassemble my rifle (barrel and brake removed from action, etc.) and put it back together with the zero shifting a grand total of 0.1 MRAD, which was within the usual margin for error from day to day variances in my 100 yard zero based on ambient conditions. Just moving the scope in its rings/mount from one rifle to another will not cause any worse of a shift than that, and it hasn't caused any measurable shift in my experience. I'm now using a TT in Hawkins rings and have zero issues swapping between my Mausingfield build and a B-14R of my own.
The only real concern I would have is the focus distance. A Schmidt PMII is fantastic in that respect since they focus down to 25 feet, but any scope that focuses to 25 yards will be sufficient and from there you can pick your price point to determine exactly which scope you want. The only thing I am disappointed by in the TT is the close focus distance, but I don't ever shoot much closer than 50 yards anyways to worry a lot about it.
We should at Athlon to your list. They have more than a few great scopes! I just got an XTR III and will be trying it out soon.
Quality rings aren't that expensive. A basic set of Hawkins Precision rings start around $150 or so, and other competitors are similar. They aren't your $30 Vortex rings from Cabela's, but they're also not a $450 Spuhr mount. Even the good Vortex rings can be found for under $100 and they still work just fine for swapping the scope around.
Any scope that can track and hold its own zero is equally capable for swapping between rifles. Moving it between two different actions is less stressful than actually shooting the gun with recoil, it's not going to change the zero of a scope that's properly mounted into a set of rings. I did the same thing with an Athlon scope and a set of Leupold rings without issues.
100-200 bench Trijicon AccuPower 5-50x56 on a 20moa mount. Eliminates a spotting scope good enough to see rimfire at 200yds.
The longer answer is pic rails built to NATO aren't geometrically identical. Hot swapping requires minimizing tolerance stacking. To get something reliable, IMHO 1 piece mount and blue-printed PIC rails.
I too, went down the one scope -two rifles rabbit hole, and found that do so was stacking tolerances on rail mounting hole locations between rifles (even if they are from the same manufacturer), and the rails themselves. The problems compound when you add in zero stop functions. That amounts to a lot of adjustments to some small (delicate) parts that get more wear than they should.
Two scopes, IMHO.
Two scopes, IMHO.
That would be ideal, but the reality of the situation is that it doesn't matter if each rail is different from one another so long as you mount the scope into the same part of each rail every time.
My Mausingfield's pic rail is the same length as the Nightforce rail I put on my B-14R, so I spaced my rings such that they always attach to the furthest forward and furthest rearward slot on each pic rail. There is no other way for me to attach the scope to the rails, because there's only one position where both rings can be attached to the rail at the same time. I liked the Spuhr mount beforehand because the 1-piece mount gave me confidence, but I was tired of screw heads stripping out and you had to make sure to mount it in exactly the same slot every time or else it would shift your zero a smidge (because different mounting positions will be slightly different).
If you mount the rings or 1-piece mount in the same place every time for each rail, it doesn't matter if the two rails are not identical. The difference between the rails doesn't change over time, it's a measurable constant that's factored into the zero difference between the two rifles. For me that means a small horizontal zero shift when putting the scope on my rimfire rifle, but it's measurable and repeatable because I mount the scope on that rail the same way every single time.
Get yourself a decent pair of scope rings or a decent mount (~$100-200), a decent pic rail for the B-14R (a Nightforce base will cost you $60), and then put whatever scope you like best on top. You'll find that the zero shift between your main rifle and your rimfire is consistent and repeatable, measure it once and then just keep a note on your phone or in your gun case to mark down how big the shift is. Then just change the zero, or dial for the new correct zero, whenever you switch from one gun to the other. My scope is zeroed for 100 yards with my 6 Dasher, and then I just add 0.4 MRAD elevation and 0.3 MRAD of right windage to zero the turrets when I switch to shooting rimfire. Once I move the scope back I take my rimfire zero and subtract 0.4 MRAD elevation and 0.3 MRAD of right windage, and now I'm zeroed for the centerfire gun again.
It's pretty simple and easy, not as complicated as everyone makes it out to be. Get yourself a torque limiter for the ring/mount bases and put the rings/mount in the same place on each rail every time with the same torque - your results will be consistent. Mine have been consistent across multiple rifles and scope/ring/mount combinations, so long as you take the bare minimum amount of care to put the mount/rings in the same spot on the rails each time.
Can anyone tell me the measurement between the turrets, so I can size a Spuhr scope mount? Measurement A and Measurement B.
Bushnell
Bushnell
ELITE TACTICAL HDMR II-CR 3.5-21X50
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