Is there a preferred type end mill for cutting epoxy bedding ? In need of something longer so I can see around the quill while trimming excess epoxy .
Thanks
Thanks
Gunsmithing Best end mill for cutting epoxy wood etc
- Thread starter Easy_E
- Start date
Do you use a two or four flute ? Maybe over thinking this just want to have the smoothest cut .
2 flute, 4 flute, hss or carbide cutting epoxy isnt much of a strain on endmills. Frank Mari (Mari tool)makes some reduced shank carbide 3 flutes with relatively short L.O.C but long shanks that are handy for making a cut in a pocket without "rubbing" above your cut. If I remember right his .250 dia em reduced shank measures .237ish so they are best held in an er style collet holder.
If you run a 2 flute at 1500 rpm, that's 50 cuts per second. Go slow and take 10 thou at a time. You should be fine and dandy. It's only wood and epoxy so there shouldn't really be any tool deflection.
2 flute for doing that, even if you cut into aluminum bed your still fine.
Seems like the 3 and 4 flutes start clogging up more, but any would work. I turn shop vac on and it keeps chips cleaned out so you can see what your doing.
Seems like the 3 and 4 flutes start clogging up more, but any would work. I turn shop vac on and it keeps chips cleaned out so you can see what your doing.
I was thinking a longer cutting area for one pass around the well but that reduced shank cutter might work better . They suggest ER collet for that cutter I would think the R8 should hold fine for this ?
Thanks for the replies.
Thanks for the replies.
@ Easy_E. Collets are only designed to collapse so much then you ruin them, er collets will collapse .040ish because their designed too- 5, R8 and DA collets not so much, I doubt you could clamp a .250 R8 and be happy when you were done, a 6mm R8 might get it done but it is 1 thou undersize... I would recommend a R8 er collet holder they are cheap enough and run out is nice even on cheaper Asian collets and it gives you the advantage of precisely holding small cutters and bits with minimal gauge length
.https://www.shars.com/catalogsearch/result/?cat_id=1921&q=202-1404
The holder #5 on this toolcart has the TiN coated Mori 3 flute in a er holder "choked up" enough to just cut the pocket I needed
When I am not cutting something to nasty on the lungs or abrasive for the machine I like to use a air line hooked up to a mag base to use air as coolant if I am not using liquid coolant...
.https://www.shars.com/catalogsearch/result/?cat_id=1921&q=202-1404
The holder #5 on this toolcart has the TiN coated Mori 3 flute in a er holder "choked up" enough to just cut the pocket I needed
When I am not cutting something to nasty on the lungs or abrasive for the machine I like to use a air line hooked up to a mag base to use air as coolant if I am not using liquid coolant...
I didn't realize they had R8 to ER adapters this will work for other projects we have going .
@Easy_E Couple "pro tips"
1. Get the collet nut that matches your nut style, there are various nuts /spanner styles
2. Watch a video on how to "load" the collet into the nut, to do it correctly you need to start it at an angle to snap it in the nut doesn't just tighten down, it's eccentric.
If you are used to an R8 machine w/o a power drawbar, you may find it quicker to spin the nut off, load a collet and wrench it back on than the old loosen the drawbar routine....
1. Get the collet nut that matches your nut style, there are various nuts /spanner styles
2. Watch a video on how to "load" the collet into the nut, to do it correctly you need to start it at an angle to snap it in the nut doesn't just tighten down, it's eccentric.
If you are used to an R8 machine w/o a power drawbar, you may find it quicker to spin the nut off, load a collet and wrench it back on than the old loosen the drawbar routine....
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