Best Flash Hider For FN SPR?

kw650

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Minuteman
Nov 28, 2010
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KY
Thinking of having my SPR A2 threaded for a flash hider. And have been looking at the different makes and models. But I notice no one lists the outside diameter of them. Any one have a recomendation for one that works well, and is the same barrel size or bigger than the SPR barrel? Don't want to have some little dinky thing on there that does not look right. I like the Yankee Hill smooth ended one as far as looks goes. I need to call them and see if they can let me know the size. Thanks!
 
Surefire SOCOM 3P adapter. I had one installed on my older 1st Gen SPR...it shot fine afterwards.
A friend of mine used to work for FN, told me the kind of chrome lining FN uses will be fine if you cut the barrel.
 
There is zero reason to add a flash hider. It also has a chrome lined barrel, which tends to get interesting when you try to cut into it.

You are right,
If all some one does with there rifle is punch holes in paper. I also use mine to hunt year round.


Well reason 1. I would think it would be easier on any night vision I may use in the future to have one. Reason 2. I want to some day put a can on it, and most can mounts incorporate a flash hider.

And there is no reason to cut into the chrome just to thread a barrel. I have no desire to shorten the barrel, just thread it.

And I may just leave this rifle alone. Was just thinking about having it done now since I am sending it out to get coated.
 
It's a bolt gun and your not hunting VC. The military used slick barrels on their SWS for eons and some still do. If they have no problem, then why would a hunter?

I would not fuck with a factory SPR. They a great guns, serious shooters. If you want something different, build a gun up.

With that beind said, the SPR is a shitty hunting gun. There are 100 better options out there that are lighter and in more hunter friendly calibers.

If you understand how chrome is applied (and other metal chemical treatments) you would know that at the very least its a risk to chrome flaking or complete degredation of accuracy. Please show me one competent smith or builder who reccomends chopping down a chrome barrel for anything but blasting.
 
Once again I AM NOT SHORTENING THE BARREL. The chrome will not be touched. And since when is 308 not a hunting friendly caliber. I have never herd such a thing. That is just nuts. I have been using 308 for 30 years for everything from deer to coyotes. Works just fine. And yes If I was going to hike all over gods green earth I would carry my Winchester 70 light. But I normally hunt from fixed positions. And a nice heavy SPR works great. And no i'm not hunting VC i'm hunting coyotes. Just as bad

And yes I understand how chrome is applied. I have spent my hole life in the aircraft industry. And have dealt with platings, and treatments extensively.
 
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KW,
As suggested above, you can just thread it and have a the thread protector fitted. Then when you decide on what suppressor you want, you can buy the specified adapter for it.
I knew I was going to eventually go with another Surefire SOCOM, so I went with that adapter.
 
KW,
As suggested above, you can just thread it and have a the thread protector fitted. Then when you decide on what suppressor you want, you can buy the specified adapter for it.
I knew I was going to eventually go with another Surefire SOCOM, so I went with that adapter.

What I am thinking. Thanks!
 
Once again I AM NOT SHORTENING THE BARREL. The chrome will not be touched. And since when is 308 not a hunting friendly caliber. I have never herd such a thing. That is just nuts. I have been using 308 for 30 years for everything from deer to coyotes. Works just fine. And yes If I was going to hike all over gods green earth I would carry my Winchester 70 light. But I normally hunt from fixed positions. And a nice heavy SPR works great. And no i'm not hunting VC i'm hunting coyotes. Just as bad

And yes I understand how chrome is applied. I have spent my hole life in the aircraft industry. And have dealt with platings, and treatments extensively.

1. I was addressing the previous poster who said u can cut through FN Chrome lining, as if they have some magic wizardry over there the rest of the world has yet to discover.
2. I did not say the .308 is not a hunting friendly Caliber, I said there are more hunter friendly calibers. So before you have a heart attack, try to tackle reading comprehension.
3. I hunt with .308 most of the time, but it is not even close to an optimal caliber for a variety of game. Slow, heavy recoiling and wind drift if you’re shooting Deer and bellow. It sucks at range and does not have the energy at range. For smaller game, the .243 destroys it and for heavier game .260/6.5CM up to 6.5x55/7Rem/300WM all retains much more energy down range and do it with less wind drift, resulting in more successful hunts. The .308 is a jack of some trades and a master of none. It will do OK, but like I said, there are much better choices if you match your tool to the task. The only thing it has going for it is good bullet selection and availability off the shelf.
4. Still waiting to hear why a flash hider would be needed at all. Do the game where you drive out and plop down shoot back? Do you have some super-secret NV tech that is so sensitive that some flash will destroy it?
 
This is why I stay of these sights for the most part. It's just not worth it. You know what, I comprehend the english language just fine. Maybe you should try rereading your post again. And read the question I was asking. Your info is irelivent to my question. And yes if I was going to have a different rifle for everything I hunt I would have a 243 for coyotes a 22-250 for groundhogs, a 308 for deer, and a 300wm for elk. But that is no relevant to my question. I like 308 and out to the ranges I shoot it works great. Most of my shots are under 300 yards and I have never had a deer take more than a few steps after I shot it. I have found it is better to use one cal and be very proficient with it. But that is what works for me. You must load your 308 way hotter than me to say it is heavy recoiling. Next to 243 it is about as light as it gets with match loads. Now a 300wm hurts. Have had three of them and every time I ask my self why I got one again LOL


1. I was addressing the previous poster who said u can cut through FN Chrome lining, as if they have some magic wizardry over there the rest of the world has yet to discover.
2. I did not say the .308 is not a hunting friendly Caliber, I said there are more hunter friendly calibers. So before you have a heart attack, try to tackle reading comprehension.
3. I hunt with .308 most of the time, but it is not even close to an optimal caliber for a variety of game. Slow, heavy recoiling and wind drift if you’re shooting Deer and bellow. It sucks at range and does not have the energy at range. For smaller game, the .243 destroys it and for heavier game .260/6.5CM up to 6.5x55/7Rem/300WM all retains much more energy down range and do it with less wind drift, resulting in more successful hunts. The .308 is a jack of some trades and a master of none. It will do OK, but like I said, there are much better choices if you match your tool to the task. The only thing it has going for it is good bullet selection and availability off the shelf.
4. Still waiting to hear why a flash hider would be needed at all. Do the game where you drive out and plop down shoot back? Do you have some super-secret NV tech that is so sensitive that some flash will destroy it?
 
If you look at the full spectrum of hunting from small to large game and from short to long distances, you can then apply calibers that are suitable in those ranges. Map it out and then see where they fall. Taking into account excess energy (that ruins meat), enough energy to reliabily put down game, Wind drift (assume elevation calculation is easy) and human error...... .308 is not really that great. Yes it kills, Yes it has killed alot, but so has .22. More deer have been taken with .22 than anything else by some estimates.

I also noted that I hunt with .308 sometimes. I can still identify its not an optimal choice and in my case, something like .223/22-250/.243 would be much wiser for the <150yard shots that are common on the easy coast. The only problem is the archaic legality in some states.

The disccussions is getting away from the point of the thread.


I personaly would not cut into a SPR barrel, but thats me. Just make sure you pick the right threads if you do it.
 
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I do plan on building a dedicated coyote rifle next year with a 243 winchester coyote light as the starting point. Never been a fan of 243 for deer. To many people spend more time having to track a shot deer than they do hunting with that cal. But that said it is my favorite for coyotes with a light bullet. Hunted them for years with a 22-250 and while I love that round, I just had to many that did not drop right away with it. I do not like anything to suffer, even coyotes.

One of the reasons I like 308 for deer around hear in KY is all the scrub and weeds where I hunt. I have found that 243 and 270 car be easily deflected by an unseen branch or such. 308 seems to be less affected by that, at least that is my experience with the 168gr bullet.

If it is one thing I have learned the numbers do not tell the hole story. Years ago I did all my deer hunting with a 35rem lever gun. Now on paper, 35rem has no more power than 30-30. But I shot 17 deer with that rifle and only one out of that 17 took a single step. Every other one dropped and never moved. Like flipping a switch. Now 30-30 can't do that, or at least not with that consistency. But I have read that over and over in books also. No one can explain it. Other than the 200gr bullet at that velocity is just about perfect. But I digress. Like you said we are getting way off topic. LOL

If you look at the full spectrum of hunting from small to large game and from short to long distances, you can then apply calibers that are suitable in those ranges. Map it out and then see where they fall. Taking into account excess energy (that ruins meat), enough energy to reliabily put down game, Wind drift (assume elevation calculation is easy) and human error...... .308 is not really that great. Yes it kills, Yes it has killed alot, but so has .22. More deer have been taken with .22 than anything else by some estimates.

I also noted that I hunt with .308 sometimes. I can still identify its not an optimal choice and in my case, something like .223/22-250/.243 would be much wiser for the <150yard shots that are common on the easy coast. The only problem is the archaic legality in some states.

The disccussions is getting away from the point of the thread.


I personaly would not cut into a SPR barrel, but thats me. Just make sure you pick the right threads if you do it.
 
kw650, do you mean a muzzle brake? I highly recommend Mark Gordon at Short Action Customs. He can do exactly what you are asking for. In many people's eyes, he's the go-to guy for FN SPR work. I'm one of those people.
 
Oh I know. He dose fantastic work. I had him do what work I could not do on my winchester M70 (enlarge the base screw holes for the SPR badger base, install a Tac bolt knob, and cerakote it) and he has one of my SPRs right now. He is the best.

kw650, do you mean a muzzle brake? I highly recommend Mark Gordon at Short Action Customs. He can do exactly what you are asking for. In many people's eyes, he's the go-to guy for FN SPR work. I'm one of those people.