Re: Best load for Savage 10FP 308
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: SturmHead</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have a new Savage 10FP. So far I've tried military ball (for rough sight-in), M118 match, Federal 165gr btsp, and Federal 168gr bthp match. The Fed match gave best group at around 2MOA. I have iron sighted gas guns that shoot better than this.
For you Savage shooters, what bullit, load, and/or factory load are you getting your best accuracy?
Any other accuracy tips would be appreciated.
Thanks </div></div>
I got a new 10FP LE2b 26' almost 3 years back. With good components, I would get some decent .5 moa/5 shot groups here and there, but the rifle never grouped consistently. I started out with the David Tubb Final Finish polishing bullets and did the shoot once, clean once x5, shoot two, clean x5 yadda, yadda, yadda.
Back in September/October, I considered selling it and getting something like an FN, thinking my Savage wasn't one of those half inch wonder guns for Schlitz beer money. I have other rifles to shoot and I kind of gravitated to them more and more, kind of depressed. At that time, a buddy picked up his first bolt gun--a CZ-750 Tactical and we started shooting once a week, me doing the reloading for the both of us.
I had about 700-800 rounds through it when I went out one day and heck if I didn't start getting consistent .5-.75 MOA groups with the 168 SMKs and 185 Scenars I thought I had shot in her before. I'm not talking about a few groups here or there, in a session, but 16-17 out of 20, really measuring between that 1/2" and 3/4" range.
Something happened and I don't think that my shooting got better, nor my recipes, but the barrel turned and turned for the better. Now, 800 rounds later, I can say that those one inch groups are really my fault and not the rifle's or ammo's. It's kind of uncanny, but it's a nice rifle now.
I've used USP/JB's bore paste on it and have fluctuated between a deep clean to the bare metal and not really cleaning it (light scrub with Kroil) after a 75 rd day and it still shoots great.
Last week I took it to a 1000yd range and during a thunderstorm, went in and bore pasted it. The fellow running the range had a Hawkeye bore scope and scoped it for me. He said there was a small amount of copper still left, but the bore looked pretty damn good. This guy always refers to Savages as 'damnSavages' so he's not a fan of the brand, but the bore was in great shape he said.
He did notice some chatter marks in the chamber, which isn't uncommon for a cheaper factory barrel, but I don't have issues with extraction unless I load some hot rounds and then it's mostly a stiff bolt.
By the way, the Manatee 1000yd guys were of the mindset that all that junk has to come out so they fall into the 'clean down to the bare metal' crowd. Bore paste is a must in their minds and it will remove copper if you give it enough strokes. The owner who shot for 26 yrs on the USMC shooting team felt that Sweets and other harsh chemicals for removing copper weren't the best, but the bore paste is what one should be using, just for reference.
I shot 50 rounds Friday and clocked them. I noticed on cold bore shots, I was getting some higher velocities after that thorough cleaning I did last week but they dropped to normal after only a few shots...as the barrel warmed. I'd never seen this before, even after I've pasted it, but we really did a scrub job so maybe that was it?
I haven't cleaned it out yet and I'm still on the fence about the 'bare metal' cleaning, so I'll mull it over before I do either a light clean, or run some paste down it.
I know 700 rds is a lot of ammo to shoot, before finding the sweet spot, but you might just have to be patient and bite the proverbial bullet.
Chris