Well there goes my ATF/Motor oil mix.
So what is actually non-toxic as far as firearm lube then?
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Best Lubricants for AR's?
- Thread starter 186thFCo
- Start date
Well there goes my ATF/Motor oil mix.
So what is actually non-toxic as far as firearm lube then?
LOL. Wash your hands. Apply any solvent to your skin three times a week and leave it there. See what happens.
Has anyone used the Lucas oil? I know that a lot of their stuff is gimmicky at best and most doesn't work but I saw it in a store and got a bottle.
My go to has been EWL oil and Militec grease for all platforms for years and I've never had a problem or reason to change. I also started using some Tetra grease recently as I was low on Militec and it was available locally and so far it seems to be working well.
I think there's a lot of good lubricants out there for guns so long as you're using them for the right application. The only thing I steer clear from is the cleaner and lubricants in one, I know that a lot seem to use them with success but leaving something in or on a gun that is potent enough to strip away fouling and carbon just doesn't sit well with me.
My go to has been EWL oil and Militec grease for all platforms for years and I've never had a problem or reason to change. I also started using some Tetra grease recently as I was low on Militec and it was available locally and so far it seems to be working well.
I think there's a lot of good lubricants out there for guns so long as you're using them for the right application. The only thing I steer clear from is the cleaner and lubricants in one, I know that a lot seem to use them with success but leaving something in or on a gun that is potent enough to strip away fouling and carbon just doesn't sit well with me.
I guess I didn't correctly emphasize on the first run that USED motor oil is carcinogenic. Fresh is noncarcinogenic... but fresh becomes used.
Also wanted to show that CLP isn't without hazards.
That said, I think they're all very very mild risks in the big picture; a little prudence with washing one's hands and avoiding oil mist plumes is probably prudent and sufficient to manage the risk (IMO)
In hot weather I have run something called the ultimate lube 2. It sure seemed just like Lucas to me, worked pretty good shooting steel cased 7.62x39 through an AR 15. I only did about 8k through it.
Been using the Lucas oil, great stuff and last. Also have the Slip products, all work great. I think the Lucas is a step up, AR's seem to clean up easier to me. Truth is, most anything out there works well, never did try and won't unless free the frog jizz, etc. Even keep a small bottle of Mobil One synthetic in the range bin I will use in AR's if I forget to lube before leaving the house.
I've been using GI LSA and CLP for 20 years in both semi and full auto guns. Never had any problems and its inexpensive.
This.
Although ive been using the Lucas stuff with great luck lately, and like that the little bottles have the tiny applicator nozzles on them. Ive had froglube in my Scars since day one and never a failure, everything still looks new, but in my ARs, they get gummed up with froglube since I shoot suppressed, so I switched to the Lucas stuff so its easier to clean off.
I run synthetic motor-oil,new/clean oil not used. Its meant to keep hot engine parts lubricated. 5$ quart last you a lifetime. Works great. I had a friend of mine that was a Ranger and back in the day thier Jam-o-matics would always lock up with the shit lube they were issued and they decided to use spare motor oil and ran like tops. he been using it ever since on all his personal gas guns, not saying this is military standard but this is where he learned it. He told me and I have been using it for 3 years and been telling all my friends and noob shooters that ask for tips, never have anyone complain. YMMV.
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Slip EWL (FireClean has worked well for me too)
I was first turned onto the Slip2000 products by Pat Rogers (RIP) after my AR ran dry in a carbine class in 2006. Later he brought by the spray bottle of Slip 2000 and we put some into the action, getting the bolt, rings, etc. Zero lubrication malfunctions the rest of the day. Wiped down my rifle that night in the hotel room, and reapplied the Slip at the range prior to starting the day. Another day of zero lubrication related malfunctions. The class was over 1k rounds in 3 days (I can't remember the actual required round count, 1500 maybe?). Since then I've only used Slip's products both due to quality and the fact that they're not HAZMAT so they can be airmailed which is how I got a 5gal bucket of EWL shipped to Afghanistan on deployment. Our HMMWV broke down one day during that deployment and we had to get towed back. The 240B we had mounted on our truck had been lubricated pretty liberally with EWL prior to going outside the wire. While getting towed back, the 240 went through its own personal dust storm, to the point of the outside looking like it was spraypainted tan. Our gunner literally looked like he was going to cry after he saw it. He changed his tune when he opened the feed tray cover to see how bad it was. The internals were still wet, but there was hardly any dirt in it, some specks here and there, but nothing like what had happened on the outside of the gun. If I wasn't sold on it before, I was after seeing that.
I was first turned onto the Slip2000 products by Pat Rogers (RIP) after my AR ran dry in a carbine class in 2006. Later he brought by the spray bottle of Slip 2000 and we put some into the action, getting the bolt, rings, etc. Zero lubrication malfunctions the rest of the day. Wiped down my rifle that night in the hotel room, and reapplied the Slip at the range prior to starting the day. Another day of zero lubrication related malfunctions. The class was over 1k rounds in 3 days (I can't remember the actual required round count, 1500 maybe?). Since then I've only used Slip's products both due to quality and the fact that they're not HAZMAT so they can be airmailed which is how I got a 5gal bucket of EWL shipped to Afghanistan on deployment. Our HMMWV broke down one day during that deployment and we had to get towed back. The 240B we had mounted on our truck had been lubricated pretty liberally with EWL prior to going outside the wire. While getting towed back, the 240 went through its own personal dust storm, to the point of the outside looking like it was spraypainted tan. Our gunner literally looked like he was going to cry after he saw it. He changed his tune when he opened the feed tray cover to see how bad it was. The internals were still wet, but there was hardly any dirt in it, some specks here and there, but nothing like what had happened on the outside of the gun. If I wasn't sold on it before, I was after seeing that.
Slip2000 EWL, this stuff actually keeps the parts in my guns from building up a lot of carbon. It's magical stuff.
I'm a fireclean fan. Use it on all my Ar's. Took my buddys suppressed M16 to the range the other day and we put a new LMT 10.5" upper on it and a full auto suppressor. The upper was new and bone dry when we got to the range. I hit it with some fireclean and proceeded to run mag after mag thru it full auto, including a 100 round mag dump and it ran like a sewing machine. Fireclean great product for Ar's.
Ive been a MPro7 user for a long time. Tried others including Fireclean and always came back to MPro7. Recently started playing with ALG Go Juice and really liking it. Will keep testing and always like to support a company thats 10 miles from me (Geissele/ALG).
ALG Go Juice.... stays put and just works like advertised.
I have had very poor performance from Fireclean.... it wants to dry up... enough that I REALLY had to yank on the charging handle of my AR's to break the dried Fireclean.
I have had very poor performance from Fireclean.... it wants to dry up... enough that I REALLY had to yank on the charging handle of my AR's to break the dried Fireclean.
Yea I had the same issues with Fireclean. Its junk. I recall reading a huge article just after I tested it that said when tested by a lab, the spectral analysis of fireclean and crisco are nearly identical. Lol. Larry Vickers stood behind that crap also if I recall.
One of the many articles on it that talks about the testing...
http://www.guns.com/2016/04/09/how-fireclean-got-compared-to-crisco/
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Is the ALG Go Juice the same as the bottle supplied with Geissele triggers? It’s a no label product when you get it-wasn’t sure if they decided to actually market it after distributing it with their trigger assemblies.
Depends on how long ago you bought your Geissele trigger. Not the bottle of stuff you got with their triggers a long time ago. They have been inlcuding a labeled tube of ALG Go Juice for a while now with their triggers (see below picture). I bought a large bottle from them for cheap last week during their Halloween sale.
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All mine are older-any clues as to what’s in the older bottles-I have three or four, at minimum.
SLIP 2000 EWL has been my favorite so far. Went through a course where we would fire 800-1000 rounds a day without cleaning and usually less than 5 minutes to clean at the end of the day and every Rifle was still running off SLIP2000 EWL. I’d always just used either CLP or Rem Oil but you’d never be able to run a rifle that hard with those. Been using it ever since. Usually you have to order it through amazon, rarely can I find a local shop that stocks it.
When my rifle is going to sit in a patrol car for long periods, i use a dry film lubricant.
Nothing too fancy, the automotive store sells a big spray can of liquid wrench dry film lube.
I hit the BCG very well as well as the inside of the upper.
I let it dry before reassembly.
Frigid cold down here is 30 degrees, but it should work very well for your intended purpose.
As a general rule, I use synthetic blend motor oil. It is heat and shear resistant as well as having additives to prevent carbon build up.
The Russians used to thin their oil with kerosene during the winter. You could do much the same thing with Hoppes #9 since it contains kerosene.
Nothing too fancy, the automotive store sells a big spray can of liquid wrench dry film lube.
I hit the BCG very well as well as the inside of the upper.
I let it dry before reassembly.
Frigid cold down here is 30 degrees, but it should work very well for your intended purpose.
As a general rule, I use synthetic blend motor oil. It is heat and shear resistant as well as having additives to prevent carbon build up.
The Russians used to thin their oil with kerosene during the winter. You could do much the same thing with Hoppes #9 since it contains kerosene.
+1 for Gunbutter. Never had a problem in cold or hot Illinois weather. Now if I could only have a suppresor to coyote hunt with.
Anyone who says anything other than eds red is wrong. The rest is overpriced bullshit.
best lubricants=biggest scam of all time.
What you use for a lubricant is not nearly as important as lubricating PROPERLY
What you use for a lubricant is not nearly as important as lubricating PROPERLY
Buy a gallon of mobile 1, pour 1 quart into a container. Take a quart of auto trans fluid and replace the quart you poured out of gallon. Shake gallon and now you have lube for life and you spend less than 30$. Better than 99% of products on the market and as good as anything on he market. You are welcome.
Cool. Except that EVERY SINGLE suggestion in this thread for a one-size-fits-all liquid lubricant is incorrect for lubricating locking lugs on a bolt or barrel extension.
Grease is the only acceptable lubrication for this location, regardless of action type.
-Nate
Grease is the only acceptable lubrication for this location, regardless of action type.
-Nate
Zero small arms outside of over under shotguns, some machine guns, auto grenade launchers and some niche weapons require grease as a lubricant. Ar's and bolt guns especially require no grease unless you are putting anti sieze on barrel threads. That is also a one time procedure during manufacturing of a rifle and is not what anyone is talking about here. Stop trying to be autistic.
Third. EWL/Slip 2000. Had a Ceiner .22 1911 conversion that would not funtion; FTF after 2 shots. After EWL, now runs like a champ.
I get that you are a gun snob; hell, you say so right in your title..
But hey, being a fucking asshole is an SOP for you I guess? Have you considered just having a technical discussion WITHOUT resorting to petty insults? Everything was cool until that last sentence, but that one just makes you look like you need to throw sophomoric language around to support your point. Swill.Ask an expert: you are incorrect on use of heavier lubricants on locking lugs. Anywhere ELSE...I'm cool with oil, and I agree with you, the TYPE of oil has little bearing on function.
Saying something louder doesn't make it true.
Some of us actually went to school and we're small arms repairers and maintainers. If the manufacture doesn't recommend it, chances are you don't need it. I already listed the exceptions.
Who is this expert you are asking? Yogi fucking bear?
While the type of oil is not always critical, it usually does matter. The viscosity matters depending on application and having a corrosion inhibitor (hence the atf) helps keep the surfaces from duh, corroding. Synthetic motor oil tends to be the best off the shelf product at economical prices with a very long shelf life. From 240b to Glock 19s, it works as good as any specific targeted product that sells for 10x ore more per volume. Fireclean, clp, frog lube, slip2k, weaponshield ect...none of them are a better lube with the exception some are non toxic and are just rebranded cooking oil.
Who is this expert you are asking? Yogi fucking bear?
While the type of oil is not always critical, it usually does matter. The viscosity matters depending on application and having a corrosion inhibitor (hence the atf) helps keep the surfaces from duh, corroding. Synthetic motor oil tends to be the best off the shelf product at economical prices with a very long shelf life. From 240b to Glock 19s, it works as good as any specific targeted product that sells for 10x ore more per volume. Fireclean, clp, frog lube, slip2k, weaponshield ect...none of them are a better lube with the exception some are non toxic and are just rebranded cooking oil.
Cool. So you're an authority. Thank you for introducing yourself and qualifying your opinion.
The "Yogi fucking bear" types I listen to are not Internet commandos...
Tony fucking Boyer. "...Rifle..." page 60.
Glen fucking Zediker "...AR15..." page 136.
Nancy fucking Tompkins "...Long-Range..." page 234.
If you think your AR is somehow special, go ahead. Just don't 'armorer' somebody else's and put them in a bad spot. Bolts break for lots of reasons, and being run dry can be one...using OIL that migrates under heat and high pressure ends up creating the same condition.
[Edited to remove my own post. I was reminded that I don't really have to care.]
You can agree to disagree without acting like a child. Next time, please try to limit the dick shaking...you may actually have a civil discussion with somebody.
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I have read every service manual for every weapon I have ever owned or was issued. The only one that I can remember requiring grease was maybe the M2. I dont think the Mark 19 needed grease. Could be wrong its been years since I played with the really fun stuff. Some manuals have suggested grease on some parts but not required. But grease away like a 12 year old with a playboy or do not I dont think anybody cares either way.
B) AL
B) AL
