The problem with Ren wax is getting into corners and it gets stuck in places that it’s hard to wipe off. That has been my experience. I use to use it for knives but was never happy with it. I just use Break free collector for knives and swords and it’s works perfectly and never gums up. Now for firearms I have been using Rig grease for decades and never had an issue with rust. Even stored a Marlin model 60 under my bed at my parents house unmolested for 25 years and it still worked perfectly. No rust and the grease was still not gummy and just like the day I placed it. Pretty impressive stuff if you ask me
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Best oil for preventing rust?
- Thread starter pineoak
- Start date
The problem with Ren wax is getting into corners and it gets stuck in places that it’s hard to wipe off. That has been my experience. I use to use it for knives but was never happy with it. I just use Break free collector for knives and swords and it’s works perfectly and never gums up. Now for firearms I have been using Rig grease for decades and never had an issue with rust. Even stored a Marlin model 60 under my bed at my parents house unmolested for 25 years and it still worked perfectly. No rust and the grease was still not gummy and just like the day I placed it. Pretty impressive stuff if you ask me
Absolutely. WD-40 will lacquer. I too have used Sheath/Barricade for a very long time and it works great.Birchwood Casey ‘Barricade’, formerly ‘Sheath’.
I have been using this over 40 years after finding out thatqwe WD40 dries and leaves a hard buildup.
Stored as well as operational firearms get s little blast, rub well over the firearm, spritz the barrel,
even after safe storage for a-few years, no rust!!!
Barricade® Rust Protection, 10 fl. oz. Aerosol
www.birchwoodcasey.com
Also like old fashion Rustprufe.
If you take just a bit of care and stay on top of it with of your guns, almost any good product will do…except WD-
Here is some data:
dayattherange.com
I have been using the WD-40 Specialist (long term rust protection) for years. Before that I used KEL 132, that I used to get from Ed Brown. It is what he used in the shop for frames and slides that were bare metal to protect them.
Corrosion Protection Products for Rifles, Shooting, Benchrest Competition, Varminting and Firearms Storage
Test of best rust-proofing products for corrosion protection, anti-rust, tool and gun storage. Breakfree, Break-Free CLP, Corrosion-X, Corrosion X, Eexoz, FP-10, FP10, Sheath, Mobil 1, Militech, Rem-Oil, Rig, Grease, Cosmoline, Slip 2000, Tetra tested. Salt spray tests on rust preventatives...
www.6mmbr.com
Comprehensive Corrosion Test: 46 Products Compared | Day At The Range
By: DIY_guy We all want to use goods quality products on our guns, bows, fishing gear, knives, autos, hunting and lake front gear and like you I?m not a fan of letting things get rust on them nor am I a fan of items wearing out prematurely. To protect my investment in gear, I began
dayattherange.com
I have been using the WD-40 Specialist (long term rust protection) for years. Before that I used KEL 132, that I used to get from Ed Brown. It is what he used in the shop for frames and slides that were bare metal to protect them.
When you say WD-40 are you talking about the WD-40 Specialist with Rust Protection?
Dunno about any specialist product. I’m talking just plain WD-40.
Water displacement 40th formulation.
That one did well on one of the rust tests
The plain standard WD-40 is the one that is not effective against rust
Correct, I have been using the WD-40 Specialist for rust protection with out issues for years.
Even plain old WD-40 is a lot more effective than some here are claiming; it IS effective against rust, not as much as something like CorrosionX, but better than a number of other common gun products.
Every time WD40 is mentioned it ends up being a witch hunt around here with everybody and their brother shouting about how bad it is. But in reality, if used for cleaning and a very light layer (i.e. wiped off well) for rust prevention it actually works reasonably well. In my own rust tests, it's worked a lot better than some of the other products people promote.
Sometimes you'll hear stupid suggestions like Hoppes #9, Kroil, or even motor oil suggested, but I'll use WD40 over any of those. It's only a problem when used wrong. Instead of the "NEVER EVER" silliness, just think smarter.
In all honesty, the OP could go right back to using WD40 and have no rust issues if he stayed away from the soft cases. But using a better oil is good too. CorrosionX won't let you down.
this whole thread is straight up stupid. When one, just one of these cats applies the various oils and protection and then leaves their rifles outside for the winter and reports back, then we can debate. Right now, it's simply apply a little oil (ANY OIL) and put away. Storing in your house etc correctly AND NOT IN A RIFLE BAG reduces 99.9% chance of any issues
2 pages of this nonsense is reminding me why people left arfcom
I'll fix it for you: cosmoline. Coat everything in cosmoline. Remove with WD-40.
/sarc/ (noted because some fool will take this comment seriously).
I saw only one mention of Ballistol…in the post, my apologies if I missed others. I have only been using it for a few months but my gun has been used in all conditions, I believe in it. It works!!!
I recently have went backwards in my shooting and spent most of our deer season in the woods with a .62 cal flint lock and a load of real black powder…. Rain snow ice and even warm days with sweaty hands no rust in the barrel or on the outside….Ballistol is used to wipe the bore down and barrel after cleaning.
As far as an affordable effective gun oil, before I retired my agencies firearms team was using synthetic oil and gave the ok for Officers to use it. I had no issue on the AR or my side arm. The type…. full Synthetic Motor Oil the lightest weight on the shelf. A “0” something label is gone off my 10 year old quart….
Just a share hope it is helpful…
Best of Luck
Charles
I recently have went backwards in my shooting and spent most of our deer season in the woods with a .62 cal flint lock and a load of real black powder…. Rain snow ice and even warm days with sweaty hands no rust in the barrel or on the outside….Ballistol is used to wipe the bore down and barrel after cleaning.
As far as an affordable effective gun oil, before I retired my agencies firearms team was using synthetic oil and gave the ok for Officers to use it. I had no issue on the AR or my side arm. The type…. full Synthetic Motor Oil the lightest weight on the shelf. A “0” something label is gone off my 10 year old quart….
Just a share hope it is helpful…
Best of Luck
Charles
Agreed 100%
Most of the people here appear to be just repeating things they heard other people repeat, with no personal proof that one thing is better than another.
I wonder how many people here even realize that the WD40 they used as a kid is not the same stuff available today? The formulation has changed at least once for sure, and likely more than that, and it doesn’t act the same way now.
If people actually tested the things they claim, these threads would be a lot shorter, and more useful. I guess it’s easier for me, being a machinist with plenty of steel laying around, but anyone here can walk out if a hardware store with some steel and test their favorite gun oils for corrosion resistance. It’s not that hard, and a lot of you would realize things are different than you imagined.
true
next we'll get the 'best gun lube' where guys swear you need $20 an ounce $hit
At least, the old WD40 was good for fishing. The old stuff used to be made partly from fish oils, which is presumably why it attracted fish, and why it tended to gum and varnish. That formulation was also flammable; we used to make cannons out of soup cans and use it for propellant.
But WD40 hasn't been flammable for quite a while now, and my research indicates it's not based on fish oils either. Different stuff, different characteristics.
WD40 is a brand, not an unchanging product.
Yep.
In before some tard who knows nothing about lubrication quotes "grEAsE fOr THinGs thAt SliDe, OiL for tHIngS tHAT RoLL" or whatever that stupid line is.
Rapeseed oil has been keeping my iron pan rustfree for a couple of decadesIsn't fireclean simply canola oil?
no idea but now that you mention it, there are a couple of 'gun oils' that are simply rebranded from commercial use. There is a test and explanation somewhere on youtube or arfcom about this.Isn't fireclean simply canola oil?
I only use mobil 1 and tw25b (since I've got a huge stash from former life but it's the best out there by far imho but I'm not spending a penny on it since mobil 1 is so effective at a fraction of the cost)
this whole thread is one big laughing stock and people should look in the mirror and ask themselves, 'am I a dipshit for buying into this nonsense' fkers can use common sense, it goes a long way.
haha true. amazing that in an era where unlimited knowledge is at our fingertips, man has gotten more ignorant
that line and the 'fit and finish' one make me want to punch someone in the mouth ala Jackie Gleason lol
I couldn't resist
WD-40 Myths & Fun Facts | Facts About WD-40 Products | WD-40
There are many myths and fun facts about WD-40 uses and history. Learn more about WD-40 and how millions have used it as a lubricant, engine degreaser, rust removal product, corrosion inhibitor and more. Find out more about creative and effective uses of WD-40 at our official website.
WHAT A FISH STORY!
Myth: WD-40 Multi-Use Product contains fish oil.Fact: Consumers have told us over the years that they have caught some of the biggest fish ever after protecting their fish hooks and lures with WD-40 Multi-Use Product . We believe this legend came from folks assuming that the product must contain fish oil since it appears to attract fish. Sorry Charlie®, it just ain’t so.
WD-40 Company has taken steps to respect and conserve the environment, and encourages its users to do the same. While WD-40 Multi-Use Product can be used to help protect fishing equipment from rust and corrosion, WD-40 Company does not recommend using WD-40 Multi-Use Product to attract fish.
Just to be clear, I’m firmly in the camp that regular wiping the gun down is the key and if you simply stay on top of it then almost any of these products will work well.
And while interesting, those tests of steel plates left out in moisture or even salt spray don’t seem terribly relevant as I don’t leave my guns sitting outside exposed to the elements for months.
Cheers
And while interesting, those tests of steel plates left out in moisture or even salt spray don’t seem terribly relevant as I don’t leave my guns sitting outside exposed to the elements for months.
Cheers
I couldn't resist
WD-40 Myths & Fun Facts | Facts About WD-40 Products | WD-40
There are many myths and fun facts about WD-40 uses and history. Learn more about WD-40 and how millions have used it as a lubricant, engine degreaser, rust removal product, corrosion inhibitor and more. Find out more about creative and effective uses of WD-40 at our official website.www.wd40.com
WHAT A FISH STORY!
Myth: WD-40 Multi-Use Product contains fish oil.
Fact: Consumers have told us over the years that they have caught some of the biggest fish ever after protecting their fish hooks and lures with WD-40 Multi-Use Product . We believe this legend came from folks assuming that the product must contain fish oil since it appears to attract fish. Sorry Charlie®, it just ain’t so.
WD-40 Company has taken steps to respect and conserve the environment, and encourages its users to do the same. While WD-40 Multi-Use Product can be used to help protect fishing equipment from rust and corrosion, WD-40 Company does not recommend using WD-40 Multi-Use Product to attract fish.
Sure, that's what WD40 is now.
Do they tell you what it used to be made from? It's easy to prove the formula has changed at least once; the old stuff was very flammable and the current stuff is not.
Wait, WD isn't flammable anymore? I guess it has been a few decades since I roasted an ant hill.
Not anywhere near what it used to be. You must not play with matches as much as I do.
Yeah, I like the method of you + thin coat of oil will yield the best results.
I've got a couple of older Smiths & the job they did on these guns back then (to include Colt as well) was just pure craftsmanship & artistry- absolutely made for generations of use. That being said, a thin coat of oil & checking them once a month or so will do the job imo
'68 27-2 & '77 27-2
I've got a couple of older Smiths & the job they did on these guns back then (to include Colt as well) was just pure craftsmanship & artistry- absolutely made for generations of use. That being said, a thin coat of oil & checking them once a month or so will do the job imo
'68 27-2 & '77 27-2
Me either. I usually leave mine scattered around the living room and on my bed.
for rust prevention I used eezoxx for a long time but Hornady One Shot is a superior product. The fumes from eezoxx are so strong I probably have brain dmage from using it for 20 years. Clenzoil is good for any gun with high grade wood, it typically does not harm wood finish. Use that on my CG shotguns. One shot on everything else
I work right across the street from the bay/Gulf of Mexico and I don't live very far off the coast in Texas with usual humidity in the 80+% range. Rust is a problem. The only thing I have found that keeps rust off my truck gun is gun grease. oils are too light and evaporate too quickly. Most people don't have my issues with the salty air so take for what you will
depending on how long you plan to store things, lubricants such as oil and grease have a shelf life
the ingredients start to separate and harden depending on what the formulation is
usually 1-3 years depending on the product
it may still work but not optimally
the ingredients start to separate and harden depending on what the formulation is
usually 1-3 years depending on the product
it may still work but not optimally
I like to use VCI bags for long term storage such as these ones:
https://shop.vciandlubricants.com/collections/vci-bags-packaging-film
Eventhough oils might work they are messy, makes the gun slippery, could affect wood coatings, etc.
Cleaning correctly and not leaving fingerprints all over the firearms is key to success!
https://shop.vciandlubricants.com/collections/vci-bags-packaging-film
Eventhough oils might work they are messy, makes the gun slippery, could affect wood coatings, etc.
Cleaning correctly and not leaving fingerprints all over the firearms is key to success!
As a kid I remember watching my dad spray it into the wet distributor cap on the F750 we had (you know, to actually use as what it was made for), put it back on, crank the engine and "pow" cracked the cap wide open.
I've started using Ballistol and really like it so far.
I carry a parkerized 1911 every day, and the finish has gotten quite worn, so it tends to start rusting fairly quickly in the summer from me sweating. Since I started using Ballistol, I haven't had nearly the rust issues I did. It also seems to help keep dust from sticking to it as much, especially around the hammer.
Right now I've got a couple of the spray cans, which foam when they spray. I am going to order some of the liquid, as I think it will be much more convenient and easier to apply.
I carry a parkerized 1911 every day, and the finish has gotten quite worn, so it tends to start rusting fairly quickly in the summer from me sweating. Since I started using Ballistol, I haven't had nearly the rust issues I did. It also seems to help keep dust from sticking to it as much, especially around the hammer.
Right now I've got a couple of the spray cans, which foam when they spray. I am going to order some of the liquid, as I think it will be much more convenient and easier to apply.
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Project Farm did a test. Seems like Ballistol isn't as good as Clenzoil as a corrosion protectant. The top plates are after the heat test.
If you watch the rest of his testing, the wear scar test shows Clenzoil beat out the other samples here with Break-Free CLP coming in close second.
If you watch the rest of his testing, the wear scar test shows Clenzoil beat out the other samples here with Break-Free CLP coming in close second.
Attachments
Rumor has it that if you disassemble your shooting iron and coat each part in lubriplate, pump the bore full, then put the pieces back together and then place some desiccant bags inside of a mylar vacuum seal bag before you push the vacuum/seal button, your shit will be rust free for an indefinite period of time.
FN soaks their M4s (after cleaning them post-test fire) so they CAN be stored indefinitely
That’s actually a pretty cool video of FN. thanks for sharing.
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I've used Birchwood Casey SHEATH, also sold as BARRICADE, for years without any issues. You can WD-40 parts out in the field that had been soaked by rain, dunked in water etc... as an expedient measure, and then when you get home or back to camp, wipe down thoroughly and apply some Sheath to everything.
this is quite comical
been in all conditions
all you need to do is clean accordingly, wipe down with oiled cloth and not worry
mobil 1 is all you need, 10w for general and storing, 0w for colder climates
been in all conditions
all you need to do is clean accordingly, wipe down with oiled cloth and not worry
mobil 1 is all you need, 10w for general and storing, 0w for colder climates
If you are concerned about rust, use an actual corrosion inhibitor. Eezox, Corrosion X Aviation, Cortec Corshield, etc.... All are outstanding and vastly superior to the majority of random products people use here.
In addition, the vapor phase emitting products (VPCI), including the paper, are also outstanding. Want your reloading dies never to rust? Put a piece of the VPCI paper in the box and voila.
I personally use a variety of these products. For example I use one of the heavy film based products by Cortec annually to coat the underside of the family vehicles. They are rust free many years later despite living in a high salt area.
Also, lastly the products I noted above are used in the aviation industry... The value of a rifle is piddling compared to anything in aviation, these are used because they work!
In addition, the vapor phase emitting products (VPCI), including the paper, are also outstanding. Want your reloading dies never to rust? Put a piece of the VPCI paper in the box and voila.
I personally use a variety of these products. For example I use one of the heavy film based products by Cortec annually to coat the underside of the family vehicles. They are rust free many years later despite living in a high salt area.
Also, lastly the products I noted above are used in the aviation industry... The value of a rifle is piddling compared to anything in aviation, these are used because they work!
Just don't do the same with high detergent oils like Shell RotellaT 15W40 - I know some people want to oversimplify and say that any oil is good oil, but I've seen some interesting rust pitting when doing corrosion tests with certain motor oils like that one if moisture is involved.
IMO it's easy enough to use a dedicated rust preventative oil; very few of us here are so poor that we can't afford a decent gun oil. Most of which are noticeably thicker and cling better than motor oil BTW.
