Best Way to Bore Sight Before Going to the Range?

[jab00]

Looking for suggestions on how I can bore sight my guns before heading to the range in order to avoid wasting time (and ammo) doing it at the range. I may be doing something wrong, but it seems to take me forever to get my guns zeroed at 100 yards if I try to do it all at the range.

I live in a townhouse, so I don't have much property out back to do a "proper" bore sighting (not to mention that I really don't want my neighbors knowing that I have firearms in the house). This leaves me with trying to do the excercise inside my one car garage with the door down.

Is it possible to do a bore sighting in that limited amount of space and still be on paper at 100 yards? I know that I'll still have to fine tune the zero, but it would be great if I could start my session out by being on paper at that distance instead of spending half my time just getting there

 

[Pierce-Shapes]

The way I bore sigh. You can put up a target up at 25 yards or meters. Place the rifle on a bag (ruck or even pillows would work) I like to be prone. Take the bolt out and bore sight using your eye looking down the bore. Line up the center of the target. And adjust your scope. I too live in a townhouse and I tape on my fence and from my kitchen, I can get close to 25 meters. This will get you on paper at 100. And you can do final adjustment there at the range.

Also a helpful hint I shoot groups of of 3, even if you know that you are not center on the target. Measure with a tape measure. And adjust the scope. Shoot another group of three measure and adjust. I can usually zero in three sets of 3. 9 rounds down range. If you try to adjust after every shot, you will be all over the place. The median of the 3 shot group is were to measure from.

Hope this helps,
-P

 

[jab00]

The way I bore sigh. You can put up a target up at 25 yards or meters. Place the rifle on a bag (ruck or even pillows would work) I like to be prone. Take the bolt out and bore sight using your eye looking down the bore. Line up the center of the target. And adjust your scope. I too live in a townhouse and I tape on my fence and from my kitchen, I can get close to 25 meters. This will get you on paper at 100. And you can do final adjustment there at the range.

Also a helpful hint I shoot groups of of 3, even if you know that you are not center on the target. Measure with a tape measure. And adjust the scope. Shoot another group of three measure and adjust. I can usually zero in three sets of 3. 9 rounds down range. If you try to adjust after every shot, you will be all over the place. The median of the 3 shot group is were to measure from.

Hope this helps,
-P

I'll have to see how far my treeline is from my dining room table. I hadn't thougt about hanging a reference point outside but leaving the gun inside. I suppose that I could put some masking tape on a tree and use thar as my aiming point (I've got some very nosey neighbors so I don't want to use anything that would look like an actual target)

 

[Rick H.]

I understand and agree with the sentiment that you don't want your neighbors to know you have firearms. I'm the same way.
For me, I used to set my rifles up in the cleaning cradle (tipton), place it on my table, remove the bolt, and point it out the front window. Then pick something down the street a bit to use as a reference. A door knob, house numbers, a small window if the house is farther away, I've even used the side of a house for a vertical reference. Remember that your scope is a straight line and your bore line should be a bit above that due to the parabolic flight path of the bullet. And getting your windage correct is more important than elevation. You can always hold high or low if you know windage is close.
Another quick reference sight in tip I've learned with more than a few rifles, is that getting sighted in at 50 yards is almost dead on for 200 yards.

 

[Pierce-Shapes]

I'll have to see how far my treeline is from my dining room table. I hadn't thougt about hanging a reference point outside but leaving the gun inside. I suppose that I could put some masking tape on a tree and use thar as my aiming point (I've got some very nosey neighbors so I don't want to use anything that would look like an actual target)

Yes that would work, but the widest tape would be the best. I have also used paper plates I find the round of the paper plate helps because as you look through the barrel you get a nice even gap around the perimeter, tape would not be as accurate but would work. Sorry to hear about your nosey neighbours.

 

[jab00]

I understand and agree with the sentiment that you don't want your neighbors to know you have firearms. I'm the same way.
For me, I used to set my rifles up in the cleaning cradle (tipton), place it on my table, remove the bolt, and point it out the front window. Then pick something down the street a bit to use as a reference. A door knob, house numbers, a small window if the house is farther away, I've even used the side of a house for a vertical reference. Remember that your scope is a straight line and your bore line should be a bit above that due to the parabolic flight path of the bullet. And getting your windage correct is more important than elevation. You can always hold high or low if you know windage is close.
Another quick reference sight in tip I've learned with more than a few rifles, is that getting sighted in at 50 yards is almost dead on for 200 yards.

Thanks - I just pulled out my range finder and found a tree that measures just shy of 50 yards (49.3) from my dining room table. I should be able to hang a paper plate out there with a 3" neon green sticker out there without attracting much attention from the neighbors and do a quick bore sighting

 

[jab00]

Yes that would work, but the widest tape would be the best. I have also used paper plates I find the round of the paper plate helps because as you look through the barrel you get a nice even gap around the perimeter, tape would not be as accurate but would work. Sorry to hear about your nosey neighbours.

I'm going to steal your pie plate idea since you're ght about the tape - even my widest roll of blue painters tape isn't going to a decent reference point. I just did a quick test and the pie plate with a neon sticker in the center looks like it'll work

 

[davsco]

i just find a fence post top, knot in a tree, soda can on the ground, etc and 'aim' at that.

 

[skatz11]

I’ve had good luck “bore sighting” on the range. Looking down the bore can really get you very close. A large clean backer board really helps. I usually grab some poster board from CVS or Walgreens on the way to the range. I used to do it at 50 yards but last time I did it at 100 yards.

Here are my results:

 

[Rick H.]

Thanks - I just pulled out my range finder and found a tree that measures just shy of 50 yards (49.3) from my dining room table. I should be able to hang a paper plate out there with a 3" neon green sticker out there without attracting much attention from the neighbors and do a quick bore sighting

Not sure if I was unclear, but I meant actually firing at 50 yards being almost dead on at 200. So get yourself bore sighted, and then set up a target at 50 yards for actual live fire. A couple shots should get you within an inch or so, then you can go out to 200 yards and be almost dead on. You probably understood that, but my reread had me wondering, so offering some clarification now.

And another quick rule-of-thumb from back when I shot HighPower matches, from a 100 yard zero you would add 2 minutes for 200 yards, 3 more for 300 yards, then 12 more minutes to get to 600 yards. Some of the newer cartridges may shoot flatter, and need less elevation, but my first ever shot at 600 using that 12 minutes of elevation (48 clicks on my rifle) yielded a 10, so it worked for me.

 

[flyer]

Maybe eyesight is the key but I've never had an issue bore sighting at the range.

You want to line up your bore with your aiming point so you see concentric circles at the aiming point, muzzle and throat, do that on sand bags, then adjust the scope to the aiming point and double check afterward.

That method has got me less than 1.5" off final aim several times, it only takes a few minutes and I usually do it while doing barrel break in, then zero my knobs and start shooting groups.

It's easiest if you have an accurate gun, if you are trying to do it with a 3-4 MOA bullet hose, it can be harder to find your final aim.

I usually do it at home first with whatever sight line I have so that at the range I'm already close.

 

[Crews]

I'll echo the approach everyone else has already described, pull the bolt, center the target in the bore, and adjust the scope accordingly. There is no need to go through all that at home if you have limited space, just do it on a target at 100 yards when you get to the range. I've even done it with AR-15's, just pull the upper off and do the same thing. If you go slow and don't rush, it shouldn't take much time at all. Using this method I rarely fire more than 3-5 shots to zero a scope after mounting properly.

 

[jab00]

I’ve had good luck “bore sighting” on the range. Looking down the bore can really get you very close. A large clean backer board really helps. I usually grab some poster board from CVS or Walgreens on the way to the range. I used to do it at 50 yards but last time I did it at 100 yards.

Here are my results:

My biggest headache with trying to get the initial bore sighting done at the range is time. they do 5 min cease-fires every 15 mins to check and post targets, so it's real pain to have to wait to move the target from say 25 yards after doing the initial bore sighting out to 50 or 100 yards to take the first couple of shots to see where I am. I suppose that I could take a few shots at 25 to see if I'm on paper there but I somehow feel like it makes more sense to wait until I can move the target out to 50 or 100 to do the first test. I normally use a piece of a cardboard box as a backer for this process but I may try your poster board idea since it would create a better backgroun

 

[jab00]

Not sure if I was unclear, but I meant actually firing at 50 yards being almost dead on at 200. So get yourself bore sighted, and then set up a target at 50 yards for actual live fire. A couple shots should get you within an inch or so, then you can go out to 200 yards and be almost dead on. You probably understood that, but my reread had me wondering, so offering some clarification now.

And another quick rule-of-thumb from back when I shot HighPower matches, from a 100 yard zero you would add 2 minutes for 200 yards, 3 more for 300 yards, then 12 more minutes to get to 600 yards. Some of the newer cartridges may shoot flatter, and need less elevation, but my first ever shot at 600 using that 12 minutes of elevation (48 clicks on my rifle) yielded a 10, so it worked for me.

No worries - I understood what you meant by the 50/200 yard zero. That's the method that I've always used for my AR iron sights.

 

[htowncoog]

My biggest headache with trying to get the initial bore sighting done at the range is time. they do 5 min cease-fires every 15 mins to check and post targets, so it's real pain to have to wait to move the target from say 25 yards after doing the initial bore sighting out to 50 or 100 yards to take the first couple of shots to see where I am. I suppose that I could take a few shots at 25 to see if I'm on paper there but I somehow feel like it makes more sense to wait until I can move the target out to 50 or 100 to do the first test. I normally use a piece of a cardboard box as a backer for this process but I may try your poster board idea since it would create a better backgroun

Better to get it right the first time and not waste ammo.

 

[jab00]

Better to get it right the first time and not waste ammo.

I totally agree. I’ve had a couple trips where I went through a box of ammo chasing holes around the paper.

 

[flyer]

My biggest headache with trying to get the initial bore sighting done at the range is time. they do 5 min cease-fires every 15 mins to check and post targets, so it's real pain to have to wait to move the target from say 25 yards after doing the initial bore sighting out to 50 or 100 yards to take the first couple of shots to see where I am. I suppose that I could take a few shots at 25 to see if I'm on paper there but I somehow feel like it makes more sense to wait until I can move the target out to 50 or 100 to do the first test. I normally use a piece of a cardboard box as a backer for this process but I may try your poster board idea since it would create a better backgroun

On a decently accurate rifle with a good bore sighting, you don't need to start at 25 yards, I start at 100 and usually get within about 1.5".

The next trick is after the first shot, aim at the center of your target again, get good and stable on the sandbags and then dial the reticle over to your point of impact. You get your zero in two shots if your rifle has accuracy approaching the click value of your scope.

 

[jab00]

On a decently accurate rifle with a good bore sighting, you don't need to start at 25 yards, I start at 100 and usually get within about 1.5".

The next trick is after the first shot, aim at the center of your target again, get good and stable on the sandbags and then dial the reticle over to your point of impact. You get your zero in two shots if your rifle has accuracy approaching the click value of your scope.

Thanks - I'll give the "two shot" method a try this weekend

 

[Mike Casselton]

I do the bore site at 100 and the two shot thing also.
I never waste ammo at less than 100 for bore sighting

 

[jab00]

So, I'm now definitely a fan of the "take a shot and then dial the reticle over to the point of impact method" now.

I did a real quick bore sighting of my scope at home before leaving the range using a pie plate stuck to a tree. Went to the range and put my target up on on of those big pieces of poster-board and ran it out to 100. I put my rifle in a vise, took my first shot and I was about 3 inches high and 2 inches low. Moved my reticle over to that first shot and took another shot and was dead center. Four shots later, I had a nice 1/4" grouping at 100 yards. After that, it was 1/4" groups all day (well, actually for an hour since I ran out of ammo - I only brought 3 boxes with me).

This was by the fastest (and cheapest) zeroing session that I've had in a long time

 

[Dthomas3523]

I just look through the bore at 100. Never not been on paper this way. Typically 3 shots if I’m using the reticle to measure correctly.

Then however many to tweek the zero perfectly at my poa.

 

[John boy jh]

Dialing the retical to poi has worked for me . I even use it to and over 1000yds for both el and wind.

 

[W54/XM-388]

On a decently accurate rifle with a good bore sighting, you don't need to start at 25 yards, I start at 100 and usually get within about 1.5".

The next trick is after the first shot, aim at the center of your target again, get good and stable on the sandbags and then dial the reticle over to your point of impact. You get your zero in two shots if your rifle has accuracy approaching the click value of your scope.

Pretty much exactly how I do it & it has worked well for everything except 1 rifle.

I also use target sheets that have a grid on them and each square matches 1 click value of my scope at 100m

 

[Sheldon N]

Zero'd two scopes with a buddy yesterday.... at 600 yards. He already knew his ballistics so we just sent a couple rounds with me on binos behind him. Called a correction, was hammering the plate within 2-3 rounds each time. I'm sure he'll check it on paper later on, but it's within a click or so.

 

[ken4570tc in WY]

Through my open dining room window, rifle cradled in an adjustable rest, a caliber specific dummy cartridge with laser at evening light on white storage building about 75' away. Always works for me to be on paper 100 yards. Fine tune adjustment for cartridge/barrel harmonics at the range. I've used the 'looking down the bore' method with good success as well. Don't shoot the building!

 

[Greg Langelius *]

I use Pejsa and a laser cartridge boresighter. Using 1/4 graph paper, I put an X through the intersection of two cross lines, and a small circle centered about 1 1/2" below.

I arrived at this by entering 1.75" into my load's Pejsa 100yd zero spreadsheet for my scope height value, and then setting the 'special distance' value at 8yd, which is the distance I have available inside my home to do bore sighting. The path value indicates a difference of about 1/4" less than the scope height.

Now this 1/4" value will vary some, but in general, they are all pretty close at the 8yd distance, so I do a 'quick and dirty' and arrive at the graph paper setup in the first para. If the scope height is higher, the circle is adjusted so it's just 1/4" less than the scope's height below the X, and vice-versa with a lower cope.

I lay the rifle with the cartridge laser on in a cradle aimed at the far wall, 8yd away. I tape the paper onto the wall positioned so the laser is centered in the circle. I then adjust the reticle so it divides the X neatly, confirming that the laser is still centered in the circle.

This will give you a 'quick and dirty' bore sight relationship. It will not assure a first round x, but it should get you onto paper at 100yd.

 

[RedRyder]

I use the exact method described by Pierce-Shapes, et.al.. I took my 260 to the 100yd range on Thursday, boresighted as he described and I am not exaggerating or lying when I say I hit the dot (I don't use typical targets. I make my own and its typically less than a 1/2" in size) on the first shot. There is not doubt in my mind that I will NEVER do that again. I will admit that it usually takes me 3 rounds to get it on the paper. Of course, after that my groups went to shit but hey, I did a phenomenal job of boresighting.

I also boresighted a 338 Win Mag. Oh man, that was unpleasant. It's got one of those Winchester BOSS brakes on it. I'm still undergoing concussion protocol.