Suppressors Best way to clean a suppressor - Takedown and Non-takedown

ReaperDriver

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  • Sep 5, 2009
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    Hi All,

    I have several suppressors of various types - A TBAC Ultra 7 and Ultra 9 as well as an AAC .45 Tirant M and an Osprey .22LR micro. The TBAC cans are obviously sealed and the Tirant and Osprey come apart. What are the best cleaning methods for each? I've heard of some guys using a "dip" for the sealed cans. Can anyone expand on that? Also, is an ultrasonic cleaner safe to use with those sealed cans?

    For the takedown cans, is it safe to put the baffles in a stainless media tumbler? I know you can put jewlery in there, so I wouldn't think it would hurt stainless or titanium baffles.

    Any help would be greatly appreciated.
     
    Plug the small end of your TBAC’s and fill with CLR and let it soak for a while. Weight it before and after. The weight specs are posted online so you’ll know what a new one weighs. Closer you get to that number, the cleaner it should be.
     
    This^^^^

    Put the baffles in a jar with whatever solution (50/50 CLR, Hornady cleaner, SG, etc), then put the jar in the US filled with water. Easy peasy, and won't tear up your US with harsh chemicals.
     
    This past week I realized I had gone far too long before breaking my omega apart and cleaning. The 419 cap was so seized on there. I took the outer sleeve off and then let the intervals soak in boretech for a day, the dip for a day and then clr for a day. The boretech and dip didn’t do shit compared to the clr. Clr is the only way to go IMO. I still had to bend a nail back on itself to scratch inside the can to remove the built up the carbon lock holding the end cap but it scratched much easier with the clr.
    Didn’t hurt the cerakote on the can either but it did make my 419 anodized black end cap pretty pink.
     
    That's what I like about the Banisher cans; aside from the machined end cap that accepts a cap removal tool that can be used with a driver, they have a "baffle jack" tool (essentially a screw jack, that pushes the stuck, dirty baffles out of the tube via a ratchet) that makes disassembly much easier.

    Even then, my buddy and I have a time or two where both of us let our suppressors go a little too long between cleanings, which made disassembly a real chore.
     
    Oss has a video on cleaning their suppressors. Pretty much what is being spoken of here. Soak in CLR or other solvents for 24-48 hours.

    The dealer which I have dealt with, cleans with ss media in tumbler or ultrasound for takedown cans like the obsidian.
     
    Just send it to Thunderbeast and they'll clean them for free. 🤠

    Unless something has changed recently that I'm unaware of, center fire cans don't ever really need to be cleaned.

    I do the "dip" on my TakeDown 22s.

    50/50 vinegar/hydrogen peroxide. Best to read up on it though. It's very toxic.
     
    🤷‍♂️

    I'd pay attention to near the bottom about stainless and CLR as well.

    Many people believe that suppressors need to be kept very clean to perform well. This is not true.

    Most of our silencer models are sealed and welded, and cannot be taken apart. We do this to produce the strongest, lightest, and smallest suppressor, since adding threads would compromise one of more of those factors. In addition, the full 360-degree welded baffle core featured in most of our centerfire suppressors could not be taken apart anyway. We also do this to ensure long-term accuracy and reliability of the product.

    Our centerfire rifle suppressors need minimal cleaning in most applications. The only "gunk" they accumulate is some carbon buildup, which is self-limiting since each shot will knock some loose. We recommend taking a baseline weight measurement when the suppressor is new. When the suppressor has gained approx 2-3 ounces, it's time to clean.

    This can be accomplished using CLR (a ZEP product - find at Home Depot) to dissolve the carbon. Soak the inside of the suppressor in ZEP CLR and flush it every day for several days. Alternating with an Ultrasonic cleaner can help to break up stubborn carbon. Do not use CLR in an ultrasonic cleaner - it will damage the tank.

    Do not use patches or swabs of any kind; they may become trapped inside the baffle structure of the suppressor.

    NOTE ON STAINLESS STEEL:

    Please note that the 22 TAKE DOWN should not be cleaned using CLR because its baffles are stainl.ess

    For ULTRA series suppressors, CLR should not soak the "Direct Thread Insert" for Direct Thread ULTRA suppressors. The best way to accomplish this is to have the thread end up and fill the suppressor up to just short of the direct thread insert, or about 1.25" into the suppressor.


    The rimfire suppressors will collect some carbon/lead/wax buildup over long periods of time, but most people will never see any performance impact because of this. A moderately fouled .22 suppressor is usually quieter than a totally clean one, too. Eventually, you will see the weight of the suppressor increase slightly due to accumulated fouling. Long after this, you might be able to tell a difference in suppression due to decreased volume, but it will take a huge number of rounds to get to that point.

    Unlike suppressors made of some other materials, our all-titanium silencers can be cleaned very effectively without taking them apart, by using one of two methods: (1) drop it in an ultrasonic cleaner for a few minutes, alternating with soaking the inside with ZEP, or (2) use the widely-known "vinegar and peroxide" method. Both of these will clean anything out that's in the suppressor.
     
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    That's what I like about the Banisher cans; aside from the machined end cap that accepts a cap removal tool that can be used with a driver, they have a "baffle jack" tool (essentially a screw jack, that pushes the stuck, dirty baffles out of the tube via a ratchet) that makes disassembly much easier.

    Even then, my buddy and I have a time or two where both of us let our suppressors go a little too long between cleanings, which made disassembly a real chore.
    Have a userserviceable can is handy, reminds me I need to clean mine.
     
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    So, I decided to clean my 30p-1 after talking to someone at TBAC. I thought maybe it was in my head but the can seemed to be louder as of late. I asked TBAC about it and they say “when’s the last time you cleaned it?” To which I just kinda chuckled.
    the can is nearly a decade old and likely has easily tens of thousands or rounds through it. I have been doing the CLR method and have been amazed at how much shit I’m getting out of it. By weight, I still have a long way to go. What I learned so far is that better to clean early and often than what I have done, and 50/50 mix of simple green in an US cleaner does help but WILL discolor the Ceracote on the can. Once I get it clean it will need recoating. I would have never believed the amount of shit that was in it.
     
    I clean my takedown SS Surefire in an ultrasonic cleaner with CLR or Simple green. Usually run it through 3-4 cycles then hit em with a cold water rinse, finally finish them up with a couple different sizes of fitting brushes
    I do the same and it works like a champ.
     
    That's what I like about the Banisher cans; aside from the machined end cap that accepts a cap removal tool that can be used with a driver, they have a "baffle jack" tool (essentially a screw jack, that pushes the stuck, dirty baffles out of the tube via a ratchet) that makes disassembly much easier.

    Even then, my buddy and I have a time or two where both of us let our suppressors go a little too long between cleanings, which made disassembly a real chore.
    I also found it difficult to get the baffles out. I did purchase the jack and it works well. I am skeptical about leaving the o-rings in the cleaner, so I take them off. Not sure if they will be damaged but just for piece of mind.
     
    Unless something has changed recently that I'm unaware of, center fire cans don't ever really need to be cleaned.
    Nothing has changed. Centerfire cans do indeed need cleaned. Even says so in your quote from TBAC.

    When the suppressor has gained approx 2-3 ounces, it's time to clean.

    There is also tho thread.


    Or this on from TBAC
     
    Nothing has changed. Centerfire cans do indeed need cleaned. Even says so in your quote from TBAC.



    There is also tho thread.


    Or this on from TBAC

    Also in the quote from TBAC.

    For what it's worth, I never clean my personal or "demo" suppressors, even when shooting matches throughout the year.

    By all means, clean yours all you like.
     
    Cleaned my ultra 9 and 338 ultra the other day. Soaked inside with CLR then 15minutes in the ultrasonic. Did three cycles of that.
     

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    Nothing has changed. Centerfire cans do indeed need cleaned. Even says so in your quote from TBAC.



    There is also tho thread.


    Or this on from TBAC
    And Kevin brittingham says centerfire cans don't need to be cleaned. 32:56 time stamp.

    Personally I will never own one of his products and think he is an idiot. For silencer stuff I listen to Thunderbeast.
     
    Click the second link I posted. It was started by TBAC. Suppressor metered 20db higher than new. 3rd post in that thread, posted from TBAC, says to clean as it gets heavier.
    Also take note they (TBAC) never say that centerfire suppressors do not need cleaned.
     
    Interesting topic, I have also read that cleaning is not necessary with centerfire cans. Some say simply fire some supersonic rounds after shooting subs to help blow the carbon out.

    Tbac is clear about what the recommended as far as cleaning. I have a Dead Air Nomad and they don’t mention anything about cleaning in the owners manual, at least not what I can find.

    any ideas on douching a Nomad, safely?