Suppressors Best way to clean heavily fouled TBAC can ?

Did you put the cans directly in the US?
Did it effect your coating at all?
If you scroll up you can see how I set up the sonic cleaner. Three silencers and two AR-15 BCGs in a glass pan filled with Break Through. A gallon of tap water in the sonic cleaner outside of the pan. No damage to the silencer sprayed on finishes. The phosphate finish on one BCG and OPS Inc can (not pictured) are chaukie. I don't think they are damaged either, just absolutely spotless and oil free. The first silencer in the picture series is a TBAC U7.

I soaked a silencer plugged at one end for 4 days, two hours in the ultra sonic cleaner is about the same, if not better.
 
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Well. Riding around in a vehicle for a few weeks sitting breech down in CLR seemed to really soften up the fouling. Rinsed with hot water got a lot of junk out. Then hit with the bore tech washer kit and got a pile out. Check out that giant chunk that came out.

Think it’s 95 percent clean. Will repeat the CLR soak maybe get the unltrasonic out of the box I never used yet.

I think the bore tech needs to have the jets angled to get down in the k baffles more

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Finally got a bad weather day to finish this thing. Been riding around in the back of my car in CLR. Cerakote a little more matte but who cares. I’m certified in Krylon anyway.

Tried hot water and banging on sink. Surprised all the stuff that came out

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Think the power washer attachment should get it perfect.

I think boiling in water or whatver the max allowable temp is would really soften the fouling up also
 
I have found that shorter soaks ~10 or so hours combined with multiple hot water rinses worked better than just plain old clr soak.

^^ a lot of that will probably loosen up after a few shots too.
 
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What I've been doing is soak them when I get home from work until I wake up the next day, hot water rinse, bake @250 to completely dry it out, beat the piss out of it with a wooden dowel, then toss it in the CLR again when I leave for work. Twice a day same cycle for a week or so seems to get most of the big chunks out.

However, I'm very tempted to look into the ultrasonic breakthrough thing. CLR bath alone never gets it down to bare metal.
 
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Not for nothing but DMSO doesn't create lead acetate or lead lactate, both of which are toxic and will enter ground water if dumped on the ground. CLR creates lead lactate, if you dump it in your septic system it will end up in your drinking water.
 
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Got a brand name? Save me from ARF! 😢
Breakthrough
Just bought some.
 
What I've been doing is soak them when I get home from work until I wake up the next day, hot water rinse, bake @250 to completely dry it out, beat the piss out of it with a wooden dowel, then toss it in the CLR again when I leave for work. Twice a day same cycle for a week or so seems to get most of the big chunks out.

However, I'm very tempted to look into the ultrasonic breakthrough thing. CLR bath alone never gets it down to bare metal.
Mine were bare metal like they looked when they were new. Exept the erosion on the first baffle. Usung simple greennin the US cleaner. I used a soft hammer for the same effect is yhr wooden dowel. When I started with the soft hammer during hot water rinse was when stuff really stared chunking out.
 
FWIW, I tested both named brand CLR and the Zep version a few years back and found that the named brand CLR has acetic acid in it and thus reacts with lead and forms lead acetate. Acetic Acid is was not on the MSDS for CLR, but it was definitely there. Not so with the ZEP. So, I use the Zep version because it is safer, cheaper and just as effective.
 
1) Get a big glass jar, big enough that your suppressor will fit in it.
2) Go to the grocery store and buy white vinegar.
3) Go to a pharmacy and buy and equal amount of hydrogen peroxide (equal to the amount of vinegar)
4) Fille the glass jar with a 50/50 solution.
5) Submerge your suppressor in it and let it soak for three or four hours. Could be longer, depends on how much carbon buildup you have.
6) Wear chemical resistant gloves like Nitrile.
7) Using metal tongs, remove the suppressor and let the liquid drain back into the glass jar.
8) Rinse the suppressor in water.
9) It will likely be as clean as the day you bought it.
10) Seal the lid on the glass jar. You can reuse the liquid several times. I typically take it to a disposal site because it is so inexspensive.

WARNING - over time, it will eat off a finish. I do not give a shit and if it does bother me I will just rattle can it.
WARNING WARNING WARNING do not get the liquid on your skin. It will absolutely dissolve the lead in the suppressor. This is why I said gloves, also do not use it in some kind of vibrating cleaner unless you are sure the container is non reactive.
 
1) Get a big glass jar, big enough that your suppressor will fit in it.
2) Go to the grocery store and buy white vinegar.
3) Go to a pharmacy and buy and equal amount of hydrogen peroxide (equal to the amount of vinegar)
4) Fille the glass jar with a 50/50 solution.
5) Submerge your suppressor in it and let it soak for three or four hours. Could be longer, depends on how much carbon buildup you have.
6) Wear chemical resistant gloves like Nitrile.
7) Using metal tongs, remove the suppressor and let the liquid drain back into the glass jar.
8) Rinse the suppressor in water.
9) It will likely be as clean as the day you bought it.
10) Seal the lid on the glass jar. You can reuse the liquid several times. I typically take it to a disposal site because it is so inexspensive.

WARNING - over time, it will eat off a finish. I do not give a shit and if it does bother me I will just rattle can it.
WARNING WARNING WARNING do not get the liquid on your skin. It will absolutely dissolve the lead in the suppressor. This is why I said gloves, also do not use it in some kind of vibrating cleaner unless you are sure the container is non reactive.
I'll give this a go, sounds like the cheapest simplest solution! AND.......I'll wear gloves like you wise individuals.
 
1) Get a big glass jar, big enough that your suppressor will fit in it.
2) Go to the grocery store and buy white vinegar.
3) Go to a pharmacy and buy and equal amount of hydrogen peroxide (equal to the amount of vinegar)
4) Fille the glass jar with a 50/50 solution.
5) Submerge your suppressor in it and let it soak for three or four hours. Could be longer, depends on how much carbon buildup you have.
6) Wear chemical resistant gloves like Nitrile.
7) Using metal tongs, remove the suppressor and let the liquid drain back into the glass jar.
8) Rinse the suppressor in water.
9) It will likely be as clean as the day you bought it.
10) Seal the lid on the glass jar. You can reuse the liquid several times. I typically take it to a disposal site because it is so inexspensive.

WARNING - over time, it will eat off a finish. I do not give a shit and if it does bother me I will just rattle can it.
WARNING WARNING WARNING do not get the liquid on your skin. It will absolutely dissolve the lead in the suppressor. This is why I said gloves, also do not use it in some kind of vibrating cleaner unless you are sure the container is non reactive.

The byproduct is lead acetate. Peroxide Vinegar is harmful to aluminum and carbon steel.
 
The byproduct is lead acetate. Peroxide Vinegar is harmful to aluminum and carbon steel.
I had to look, none of my suppressors are made of aluminum or carbon steel.

As an aside, when I worked in shipping we used a solution like this to clean internal tanks on a vessel. The boats effectively had tanks below deck that are made of raw iron and they are coated on the inside. Over time, the coating starts to wear away and the tanks begin to rust. We would pump it into the tanks and let it sit for a couple of days and it would eat away the old coating and rust and leave behind white metal. We then recoat the tanks and are good to go for another six to eight years. I never noticed aggressive pitting in the metal and we measure the thickness of the tanks in order to keep certification.
 
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I had to look, none of my suppressors are made of aluminum or carbon steel.

As an aside, when I worked in shipping we used a solution like this to clean internal tanks on a vessel. The boats effectively had tanks below deck that are made of raw iron and they are coated on the inside. Over time, the coating starts to wear away and the tanks begin to rust. We would pump it into the tanks and let it sit for a couple of days and it would eat away the old coating and rust and leave behind white metal. We then recoat the tanks and are good to go for another six to eight years. I never noticed aggressive pitting in the metal and we measure the thickness of the tanks in order to keep certification.

Acid is used to remove rust, which is what vinegar peroxide is. Coincidentally, CLR also contains acid. It is why the byproduct of "the dip" is lead acetate.