Does a gunsmith need the receiver to replace/install a bolt handle on Remington bolt in order to get timing right?
Gunsmithing Bolt handle/timing
- Thread starter tspearsrph
- Start date
Dan at accu-tig.com just asked for a measurement with feeler gauges between the bolt handle and receiver.
He built up and reshaped the primary extraction ramp and moved everything forward and it works perfect.
Not Defiance or Impact perfect of course, but definitely better extracting and feeling than any late Rem 700 I’ve shot.
He built up and reshaped the primary extraction ramp and moved everything forward and it works perfect.
Not Defiance or Impact perfect of course, but definitely better extracting and feeling than any late Rem 700 I’ve shot.
This is just from my experience and Im sure others will chime in. A lot of the remingtons I see I would say take advantage of 60-70% of the caming/extraction surfaces. Yes they shoot fine and extract fine. Where you'll really run into issues is when you true the action and stock bolt up you'll loose even more. I fit a macbros bolt the other day and measured the amount of movement from when it hit the extraction cam and when it stopped, .074 a PTG was right at .080. I see a lot of guys pay to have an oversized bolt knob installed when you can buy a threaded PTG handle and have the bolt timed for a little more.
If on the other hand...you are talking about for accuracy....do you already shoot good enough to notice the difference between neck turned and un-neck turned brass...did you already true your primer pockets and flash holes and do extensive testing on which brand of primers give you the best SD's for the powder/bullet combination you are using?
Then you graduate to bolt timing for that issue
Then you graduate to bolt timing for that issue
By using another Remington action. Best practice is to time and fix it to the action it's going to be paired with, however it is possible to do it on a donor action.
Not picking on you but this is incorrect. Timing has nothing to do with throwing brass but the angled pieces are meant to use the leverage of bolt rotation to dislodge the brass from the chamber. If you've ever rotated your bolt all the way and could not pull the brass out because of a hot load or dirty conditions your timing may be part of the problem. The ejector and extractor tooth are what give you the brass toss.
For the best job yes the action and bolt should be together. You can, as mentioned get a good job done by measuring with a feeler guage and moving the handle forward but to have both in hand will give you the best result. Sophisticated shops like LRI may have a way to do things differently.
I havent felt a recent QR code RR action but the newer the action is the worse they have been with timing in my experience...some had none at all. I've had to touch less 6/7/C/E actions but it seems G and newer could all benefit from timing. This isnt 100% guaranteed but the older ones were put together better.
As mentioned...if you cut the abutments or lugs its likely it would benefit from being timed.
No worries...I worded it to where my thoughts didn't translate to what I was trying to convey.
top to bottom;
RR serial original bolt
RR serial with the primary extraction ramp built up and bolt handle moved forward by accu-tig.com
C serial original bolt
You can see how the original RR bolt has very little camming, when you add extra fore-aft play, you get a lot of difficult extraction that gets blamed on ammo
I agree with what you are describing but no pics. Were there supposed to be pics?top to bottom;
RR serial original bolt
RR serial with the primary extraction ramp built up and bolt handle moved forward by accu-tig.com
C serial original bolt
You can see how the original RR bolt has very little camming, when you add extra fore-aft play, you get a lot of difficult extraction that gets blamed on ammo
Not that tolerances couldnt have changed but you can almost tell from the gap between striker housing to back of bolt handle how far off the action the caming surfaces will be. C is close to your accu-tig bolt...RR is way off.
Typically the measure is between bolt handle and receiver when bolt is closed. Thats the measurement gap youd measure to get a closer fitting bolt...among a few other checks.
I do a metric shit ton of these. Whenever possible I do prefer to have the receiver in hand. X10 if the action has been blueprinted by someone other than us.
Metric shit ton equates to around 1000+ per year. Welded, soldered, and the cam surface advanced or the handle replaced altogether. I have a 5-gallon bucket full of NOS 40x handles that we use as replacements when guys want tac knobs as well on the legacy bolts with the narrow transition at the OEM knob.
In addition, LRI offers what is likely the most comprehensive upgrade packages for the Remington M7, M700, and 40x receivers. Our 5 axis blueprinting service is the only one of its kind in the entire industry. Our bolt work is also state of the art and we manufacture most of our own peripheral parts now just to ensure continuity and quality assurance.
Back this with sterling CS and the quickest turnaround and its an easy solution.
Happy to help.
Metric shit ton equates to around 1000+ per year. Welded, soldered, and the cam surface advanced or the handle replaced altogether. I have a 5-gallon bucket full of NOS 40x handles that we use as replacements when guys want tac knobs as well on the legacy bolts with the narrow transition at the OEM knob.
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In addition, LRI offers what is likely the most comprehensive upgrade packages for the Remington M7, M700, and 40x receivers. Our 5 axis blueprinting service is the only one of its kind in the entire industry. Our bolt work is also state of the art and we manufacture most of our own peripheral parts now just to ensure continuity and quality assurance.
Back this with sterling CS and the quickest turnaround and its an easy solution.
Happy to help.
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The latest "RR" prefix receivers are the ones with the biggest issue. Older M700's weren't so bad. Remington made a foundry change and that is where the problem surfaced. The mold tools failed to migrate to the new vendor.
Just can't figure out why people buy into a platform that requires an entire cottage industry to fix before it will even function at a basic level.
Because there's 5.5+ million of them in circulation and the entire aftermarket supports them. For what they cost and what you need to do, it's still far more affordable than the boutique aftermarkets.
It's really no more different than dragging a stock 6.0 LS block out of junkyard or going and spending money on an LSX block from GM. By the time you're done with both, your pocket feels it about the same. That may not be the best comparison as the LSX block will have some more girth and features, but there are a whole lotta drag racers killing it with OEM parts.
Just like guys do with a pawn shop grade M700
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Its easier to hide the cost from the wife a couple hundred at a time !
