Re: Bow advice anyone?
MUST MUST MUST shoot several before buying them. Having owned a bunch of different brands, Bowtech Diamond etc etc, YOU WILL NOTICE a difference, even if you're just getting into it. I'm a bowtech guy myself now, but yeah it's like Ford Chevy or more like Mercedes/BMW if you're comparing bowtech and mathews.
Again, I'd shoot 3 brands minimum, 6-8 bows minimum, and shoot the expensive ones versus the cheap ones. There will be cheap ones that shoot awesome and expensive ones you don't like. Noise is a HUGE factor. There will be lightning fast bows that for some reason are just noisier. That is a big deal when bowhunting--the deer is always faster than the arrow--they WILL squat at the sound of the bowstring.
Also, shooting broadheads is about 5x harder to do reliably than shooting field points, bc the broadhead steers the arrow and shows all the mistakes in your form. So generally, at first at least, better to err on the side of a slower bow with a longer brace height. You will watch arrows do all kinds of wierd shit when you stick a broadhead on them--but it's just that they are punishing imperfect form.
My biggest mistake (buy 4 times, cry 3 times) was not shooting enough bows, not spending enough money the first time, and not telling the a-hole attendants at various bow shops to suck it. Drop the real cash but shoot the hell out of a lot of different brands.
If something sounds quieter--don't listen to the bow salesmans' BS about string dampners, etc--IT IS quieter (again this is huge). If something feels more accurate, it IS more accurate (to you).
Anyway, good luck. It's an awesome sport and shit, it definitely changed my hunting and my life for the better.
Finally, go low draw weight rather than high, if there's a choice. A 50-60 lb bow shoots much faster at 60 lbs than a 60-70 lb bow shoots at 60 lbs.
I'm 5,9, bench 205-225 depending, and I don't shoot a 70 lb bow anymore--at odd angles they get tough to draw. If you're much stronger, then shit yeah, roll with the 70lb. But I found that when I'd been sitting for 4 hours, and had to draw halfway and then wait 30 seconds at half draw because the deer saw the movement and looked up...the 70 lb got hard to handle.
Also, you will always be crooking your torso around at wierd as shit angles to draw--and because you are so much closer with a bow, every single movement means a lot more. So I'd err on the side of lower draw weight.
Not to mention that 10-15fps just doesn't mean a f-ing thing at distance. Even with a fast bow, if you aim at the lungs of a walking deer 40 yards away, let the arrow go, the arrow will hit it in the hams or guts or maybe even miss behind it. Whether the arrow starts out at 300 or 260 fps is pretty much irrelevant. They are slow movers.
Alright good luck.