Brand new shooter.... Spend $500 on match ammo or $800 reloading equip and supplies??

[SDmtnbkr]

****UPDATE ON TOP OF PAGE 2****

Good day everyone! I just purchased a R700 SPS-V and I'm eager to get shooting, but it looks like match ammo is going for $1/rnd, ouch!

Being a brand new precision shooter should I spend $500 on 500 rnds of ammo so I can start shooting right away or spend a little more and get all the basic reloading gear and start reloading?? How soon would I make up the difference in spending the money on reloading gear and just start reloading right off the bat?

Then there's the fact that I have NO IDEA how to reload. I've been reading the sticky's over and over, watching youtube vids and talking to local gun shops so I have a general idea of the process in theory, but no practical knowledge.... so my learning curve would come at the exact time as my precision shooting learning curve. Not sure if that's a smart thing to do. I could easily be reloading wrong (or not to the best ability) and not realizing that my shooting is suffering because of my reloading skills, if that's possible. It looks like a lot of time and knowledge to work up a load and I'd be a little weary if I would know what I was doing or even doing it correctly.

I've been lurking this forum since I decided to build a precision rifle and think that there's a lot of great people, shooters and instructors on here and really value all of your opinions. Thanks for any help!


(*tiny background so you don't think I'm a complete newb - OIF 1 & 2 USMC Helo crewchief/door gunner - AR-15/1911 guy.)



****UPDATE ON TOP OF PAGE 2****

 

[HobbyShooter]

You're going to start reloading at some point anyway, so you may as well start now. I'd find the OCW recipe for the caliber you'll be shooting, powder you'll use, and bullet weight from Dan's website. Don't jump straight to that powder charge, but work up to it and keep an eye out for overpressure signs. A round with a standard OCW charge will likely be as good or close to as good as any match ammo you would buy.

 

[308boltgun]

As long as you are shooting short range, ball ammo will do fine at first. You can save some money that way.

I recommend buying 100 rounds of ball ammo so you can do some sighting in at 100 yards and some practice. At the same time start getting some reloading equipment. I personally prefer Dillons even for long range ammo but thats a more expensive route.

The best way to get started is to find a RCBS jr press, its always good to have around even if you are using progressives, a set of dies and a scale. The dies, and scale you will still need even when using a progressive.

Reloading on a single stage press is real easy, dont let it intimidate you. The most important part is the powder charge. Triple check what you are doing and triple check again until you are confident. The good news about rifle, you cant accidentally put in a double charge like you can in pistol calibers.

Check with local gun stores and gun clubs to see if anyone runs reloading classes. I know a couple in Pennsylvania offer them, for a fee of course.

If you want some more specifics, send me a PM.

 

[subwofer2]

Buy the ammo, see how you like it. Save your brass.... After dropping the hammer on 250 rounds consider everything you'll read in this thread then.

Otherwise, sell your brass for $100 and buy some more.

I just did a cost check, loading 1000rds of .308 with 175gr SMKs (PULLED) into once fired and preped LC brass with 41grs of Varget I'll be at $.62 a piece. Then there is the cost or reloading gear. Over the "savings" of 1000rds @ $380 I think you could pretty much get MOST of the reloading gear you'll need. That being said I have two RCBS Charge Master 1500s (one is a backup). You can sometimes find one used for $250ish or get a good deal and use the rebate promo for $250 - $280.

 

[ChrisGarrett]

Hi, this is the reloading forum, so my money is on you foregoing the $1 per round match stuff and start reloading. You'll have to be patient, but reloading will pay off your $800 (?) in tools in a few thousand rounds, especially if you have some brass that you can start off with.

Of course, this isn't a great time for buying components, but a few boxes of bullets, a couple pounds of powder and a carton of primers shouldn't be too difficult, either on the 'net, or locally.

Chris

 

[roggom]

The cool thing about shooting and reloading is that you dont need to go all or nothing. Buy some match ammo and if it works in your rifle record all the parameters and then reload to match. You will have fresh fire formed brass and buy only what you need to get started. RCBS still has some rebate action and redding makes a hell of a die set.

 

[Red_Beard]

Just my .02,

I would go for the reloading equipment. It doesn't take too long to learn and it really helped me to appreciate shooting my guns more. Something about shooting your own hand rolls and getting desired results is extremely satisfying.

As far as breaking even, (Reloading my 7mm mag) I am at about $.55 a round, but that does not factor in my initial brass purchase. I would estimate that would take my total to about $.70 a round (I am only at 3 reloads on my new brass so this number will go down the more reloads I get).

Most importantly, be safe! If you have questions, just ask. Keep reading the forum here and I am sure you will be able to find everything you need to be very successful.

 

[SDmtnbkr]

Hi, this is the reloading forum, so my money is on you foregoing the $1 per round match stuff and start reloading. You'll have to be patient, but reloading will pay off your $800 (?) in tools in a few thousand rounds, especially if you have some brass that you can start off with.

Of course, this isn't a great time for buying components, but a few boxes of bullets, a couple pounds of powder and a carton of primers shouldn't be too difficult, either on the 'net, or locally.

Chris

$800 was just an arbitrary number. I have no idea what all the equipment would cost, but I figured around $500 in equipment (press, dies, scales) and then $300 for actual bullet reloading supplies (bullets, powder and cases).

Buy the ammo, see how you like it. Save your brass.... After dropping the hammer on 250 rounds consider everything you'll read in this thread then.

Otherwise, sell your brass for $100 and buy some more.

I just did a cost check, loading 1000rds of .308 with 175gr SMKs (PULLED) into once fired and preped LC brass with 41grs of Varget I'll be at $.62 a piece. Then there is the cost or reloading gear. Over the "savings" of 1000rds @ $380 I think you could pretty much get MOST of the reloading gear you'll need. That being said I have two RCBS Charge Master 1500s (one is a backup). You can sometimes find one used for $250ish or get a good deal and use the rebate promo for $250 - $280.

Thanks all for the great info.... especially this cost breakdown. What do yo mean by "Pulled" ... as in you pulled the 175 bullets from other ammo? (sorry if this is plainly obvious)

 

[elfster1234]

Everyone that is serious about rifles, pistols, and shooting in general should reload... The more you put it off the less you learn about coming full circle as a rifleman. You dont reload to save money. You sure as hell dont reload to save time. You reload to shoot a hell of a lot more rounds for the same price and for the experience. I personally would not spend another red cent on ammo and would start now as it can be just as fun and fulfilling as shooting your rifles. If you don't think you would enjoy it then you might not want to start.

 

[subwofer2]

For many reason ammo can be broken down for components. I bought 500 pulled bullets. I have not loaded them yet but others have not had other issues with them.

I have also reloaded many other reloaded pulled projos for .50BMG. I have pressed these through a re-sizing die which may be more important given the size of the BMG projos.

In short, they have damage to them but nothing that should adversely effect their performance.

 

[HobbyShooter]

You dont reload to save money. You sure as hell dont reload to save time. You reload to shoot a hell of a lot more rounds for the same price and for the experience.

The improvement in consistency is the big thing that attracted me to reloading. I can load custom rounds for my rifle that will provide better consistency and therefore accuracy than the Federal Gold Metal Match rounds that I was shooting. The fact that I can shoot two to 3 times as much for the same cost that I used to is just icing on the cake.

 

[elfster1234]

Here is the straight up math and facts:

500primers cci400 primers = $20
3lb of varget for 500 total 43gr drops (500drops x 43gr = 21,500gr / 7000gr per lb = 3.07lb of varget needed) = $75 ($25 per lb)
500pcs of 7.62 lake city (12) brass = $120 (purchased online easy this very second)
500 .308 amax bullets = $150
grand total = $365 for 500 total initial rounds, or .73cent per round, or $14.60 per 20round box comparison


then the next 4 to 5 reloads (before brass is trashed if shooting out of semi-auto) out of the same initial brass purchase would drop the price down to $245 per 500 total rounds (because you have the brass now), or .49 per round, or $9.80 per 20box comparison.


also, if you do it right (buy once cry once which is the only way IMO for reloading), the reloading equipment and bench if you need it would most likely be well north of $500... I think once I purchased my bench materials, lock n load progressive press (I reload tons of pistol also), stainless steel media and thumlers thumbler, chargemaster, lyman case prep center, and all of the small odds and ends stuff (that actually cost a lot) like dies, bullet puller die, primer tray, powder funnel, calipers, case lube & wax & drylube, couple reloading trays & boxes, blah blah blah I want to say I had about $1500 invested just to get started the "buy once cry once" method which actually saved me money down the road IMO. I would say I have easily got my $1500 investment back in the last 8months since I started reloading especially now since factory ammo is still stupid expensive and next to impossible to find since sandyhook.... I would say I still spend the same amount of money on ammo in comparison to not reloading now that it has turned into a hobby = fun, but I just get to shoot about 3x to 4x more rounds of ammo for the same price.

like I said before.... you don't do it to save money... you do it because it is fun and you get to shoot about 4x the amount of rounds.

Good day everyone! I just purchased a R700 SPS-V and I'm eager to get shooting, but it looks like match ammo is going for $1/rnd, ouch!

Being a brand new precision shooter should I spend $500 on 500 rnds of ammo so I can start shooting right away or spend a little more and get all the basic reloading gear and start reloading?? How soon would I make up the difference in spending the money on reloading gear and just start reloading right off the bat?

Then there's the fact that I have NO IDEA how to reload. I've been reading the sticky's over and over, watching youtube vids and talking to local gun shops so I have a general idea of the process in theory, but no practical knowledge.... so my learning curve would come at the exact time as my precision shooting learning curve. Not sure if that's a smart thing to do. I could easily be reloading wrong (or not to the best ability) and not realizing that my shooting is suffering because of my reloading skills, if that's possible. It looks like a lot of time and knowledge to work up a load and I'd be a little weary if I would know what I was doing or even doing it correctly.

I've been lurking this forum since I decided to build a precision rifle and think that there's a lot of great people, shooters and instructors on here and really value all of your opinions. Thanks for any help!


(*tiny background so you don't think I'm a complete newb - OIF 1 & 2 USMC Helo crewchief/door gunner - AR-15/1911 guy.)

 

[ChrisGarrett]

$800 was just an arbitrary number. I have no idea what all the equipment would cost, but I figured around $500 in equipment (press, dies, scales) and then $300 for actual bullet reloading supplies (bullets, powder and cases).

I pretty much figured that and my 'few thousand rounds' comment was a close guess.

For a single stage press (Lee Classic Cast O-Frame @ ~$100) your $500 mark would be doable, allowing you to reload for a couple of cartridges.

Figure $100 for the press, less if you get a nice used quality brand.

A tumbler for ~$50, $10 for media, a trimmer for as little as $10 for the Lee, good used scales can be found on Ebay for less than $50ish, last I looked, same with standard reloading dies. You'll need some other items, like a deburring tool, shellholders, lube pad if you go that route, primer flip tray, dial calipers, maybe a headspace gage set, a bench, or table and a few other odds and ends.

If you can find the stuff and if you don't mind the SS press type, then you're right there, spending a bit more on this, or that, if you want a bit better quality item.

I'm a chat mod over on AR15.com and I've been telling noobs to go ahead and start reloading, forsaking that one extra weapon and this was well before Obama's first term, even.

It's only gotten worse, lol.

I really don't feel sorry for people not being able to shoot due to price and/or scarcity of ammo.

Chris

 

[SDmtnbkr]

Here is the straight up math and facts:

500primers cci400 primers = $20
3lb of varget for 500 total 43gr drops (500drops x 43gr = 21,500gr / 7000gr per lb = 3.07lb of varget needed) = $75 ($25 per lb)
500pcs of 7.62 lake city (12) brass = $120 (purchased online easy this very second)
500 .308 amax bullets = $150
grand total = $365 for 500 total initial rounds, or .73cent per round, or $14.60 per 20round box comparison

THANKS!!! This is exactly what I was looking for! I have always lived by "The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of a low price is forgotten" so I have no problem buying quality equipment, but I think $1,500 is a little steep for me right now. I have no issues with a single press and taking my time!

 

[QuickNDirty]

THANKS!!! This is exactly what I was looking for! I have always lived by "The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of a low price is forgotten" so I have no problem buying quality equipment, but I think $1,500 is a little steep for me right now. I have no issues with a single press and taking my time!

If you're around the Houston area, or can make it down here sometime, and you need some large rifle primers, I'll give you a few hundred.

If you follow the advice in this sub-forum, take your time, always pay attention to what you're doing, and keep track of where you've been, you'll discover that reloading is pretty simple and the ammo YOU produce is better than the factory stuff if not a lot cheaper.

 

[SDmtnbkr]

For a single stage press (Lee Classic Cast O-Frame @ ~$100) your $500 mark would be doable, allowing you to reload for a couple of cartridges.

Figure $100 for the press, less if you get a nice used quality brand.

A tumbler for ~$50, $10 for media, a trimmer for as little as $10 for the Lee, good used scales can be found on Ebay for less than $50ish, last I looked, same with standard reloading dies. You'll need some other items, like a deburring tool, shellholders, lube pad if you go that route, primer flip tray, dial calipers, maybe a headspace gage set, a bench, or table and a few other odds and ends.

Thanks for this response! The sticky's almost have TOO much info, it's over whelming. I can't tell which items are luxuries and which are necessities. I appreciate everyone's help! Can anyone help simplify down what I no shit need to get started?

- Lee Single stage (Classic press, Breech lock Classic or Challenger?)
- Tumbler (any specific brands I should be looking for or staying away from?)
- Scale (no idea which scale or what kind... should I stay away from the automatic ones that drop in with the Lee press??)
- Deburring tool
- Shell holder
- Dies
- case trimmer
- Primer flip tray
-???

 

[Enough Said]

List your city, state and you may receive a mentorship offer from a local Hide member.

You will absolutely need a mentor. Preferably not a hack.

 

[QuickNDirty]

Thanks for this response! The sticky's almost have TOO much info, it's over whelming. I can't tell which items are luxuries and which are necessities. I appreciate everyone's help! Can anyone help simplify down what I no shit need to get started?

- Lee Single stage (Classic press, Breech lock Classic or Challenger?)
- Tumbler (any specific brands I should be looking for or staying away from?)
- Scale (no idea which scale or what kind... should I stay away from the automatic ones that drop in with the Lee press??)
- Deburring tool
- Shell holder
- Dies
- case trimmer
- Primer flip tray
-???

I'm having good results with a lee breech lock classic cast press. I picked that one because it's beefier,
a lee 3 die set, (of which I only use the full length sizer die and bullet seating die)
a lee case length gauge and case trimmer (and a hand drill for small batches, drill press for large ones, neither are REQUIRED but both sure do make life better),
a lyman chamfer/deburring tool,
some hornady one shot spray,
a digital micrometer,
a crappy frankford arsenal digital scale,
a set of scoops,
some sharpies,
a couple of notebooks,
a couple of manuals,
and the internet.


If I could go back and do some things differently, I would have gotten a beam scale. +/- .1 grain is a bit optimistic for my particular digital one.
One thing I would reallllllly love to have, is a case prep center.
I've gotten by so far with cleaning my brass by hand. Cleaning the outside of the case, inside the neck, and the primer pocket.
Pretty soon I'll have to anneal some of my brass, so my torch will get a workout.

 

[ChrisGarrett]

Thanks for this response! The sticky's almost have TOO much info, it's over whelming. I can't tell which items are luxuries and which are necessities. I appreciate everyone's help! Can anyone help simplify down what I no shit need to get started?

- Lee Single stage (Classic press, Breech lock Classic or Challenger?)

I'd go with the Lee Classic Cast O-Frame and/or their Breech model of the same construction. It's totally made in America, by Americans using American iron rail road rails on American made CNC machines. It's their same press that they package in their 50BMG kit.

- Tumbler (any specific brands I should be looking for or staying away from?)

To keep costs down, the Frankford Arsenal, or something like a Lyman Turbo 1200 are fairly priced. I have the latter and an 18yr old Dillon CV-500 that's still working well, but they're now $145, so you're blowing your budget a bit.

- Scale (no idea which scale or what kind... should I stay away from the automatic ones that drop in with the Lee press??)

Stay away from the sub-$50 digital scales, as they drift a lot. Maybe look for an Ohaus made 5-0-5 type scale that companies like Dillon, RCBS and other big names rebrand. It's slower, but they're pretty reliable and if you get a minty used one, you can save some bucks. Look at pawn shops, Ebay and the 'for sale' sections on SH and AR15.com, as they come up once in a while as people move to digital scales.

- Deburring tool

L.E. Wison makes a $10 campher/deburr tool that is marketed by just about everybody else. You use this to bevel the inner/outer edges after trimming.

- Shell holder

These are specific to each cartridge case and you need them to 'hold' the brass in the press ram as you run through the various steps. They're not expensive and many, such as the LEE shellholders, come in sets, so you've got a selection to use. These are standardized, so you can buy the Hornady or RCBS SHs and use them in your Lee press, as an example.

- Dies

Stick with standard dies in the beginning, dies that full length size and seat. Seater dies have a built in crimping step, but it's always better that if crimping, you do it in a separate step. Taper crimps for rifle carts and semi-pistol rounds and roll crimp dies for revolver and lever guns shooting revolver ammo. You can save looking for minty used dies here and on Ebay, or on AR15.com's Equipment Exchange section labeled Reloading Supplies.

- case trimmer

I use a Lyman Universal Chuck trimmer with power drill adapter bar. It doesn't use collets for each case family and it cuts pretty well. With the adapter bar and drill, things go a lot faster.

- Primer flip tray
-???

This is a little plastic tray with a cover, that has grooves on one side. You dump the primers in and jiggle them around and they all flip one way. It makes picking them up with the primer pick up tubes (Lg/Sm) easier.

Good luck, Chris

 

[HobbyShooter]

Thanks for this response! The sticky's almost have TOO much info, it's over whelming. I can't tell which items are luxuries and which are necessities. I appreciate everyone's help! Can anyone help simplify down what I no shit need to get started?

- Lee Single stage (Classic press, Breech lock Classic or Challenger?)
- Tumbler (any specific brands I should be looking for or staying away from?)
- Scale (no idea which scale or what kind... should I stay away from the automatic ones that drop in with the Lee press??)
- Deburring tool
- Shell holder
- Dies
- case trimmer
- Primer flip tray
-???

I got a RCBS rockchucker supreme master reloading kit and it has dang near everything you'd need to start out with.

Single stage press
505 beam scale
powder funnel
powder dispenser (not needed to start with, but nice to have)
reloading tray
hand priming tool with flip tray
deburring/chamfering tool
case lube and case lube pad (messy, but it will get you started)
and other odds and ends

It sells for a little over $300 and I think they're still doing a $50 rebate. That leaves you $200 for:

dies ~ $40
shell holder ~ $8
caliper gauge ~ $30
case trimmer (I use the Lyman e-zee trim) ~ $25
tumbler or ultrasonic cleaner ~ $100
primer pocket cleaner or uniformer (I use the Lyman hand tool) ~ $17

 

[40xs]

You are embarking on an expensive lifestyle/hobby. Accept that up front. Factory bullets are ludicrisly high. Components are getting that way, especially match components ( when you can find them). Your dilemma is like deciding to rent a home forever, or buy one. Expensive either way. I doubt you will quit shooting after you have burnt all your factory ammo, so like a previous answer, you may as well jump in and start collectng your reloading equipment now because you will eventually go that route anyway. Just don't let your wife know what cost this envolves. It's almost like owning a race car. LOL.

 

[SDmtnbkr]

Man you guys are awesome! Ok, I'm gonna get all the basics ordered and report back!

One more question.... how do I know which powder to buy? Is there a basic one or a starting one? I'll have to read back through all the posts again because I think someone mentioned something about a loading manual or somewhere where I can find basic loads to start with.

You are embarking on an expensive lifestyle/hobby. Accept that up front. Factory bullets are ludicrisly high. Components are getting that way, especially match components ( when you can find them). Your dilemma is like deciding to rent a home forever, or buy one. Expensive either way. I doubt you will quit shooting after you have burnt all your factory ammo, so like a previous answer, you may as well jump in and start collectng your reloading equipment now because you will eventually go that route anyway. Just don't let your wife know what cost this envolves. It's almost like owning a race car. LOL.

I am happily divorced with no kids or alimony, haha! I completely understand that it's going to be expensive and don't mind it. I sold one of my AR-15's and have allotted $4k to start.... I have $3k budgeted on the rifle, $2k of which is spent, only looking for a good stock to finish it up and the rest is for ammo... now reloading equip and ammo. Figuring now $500-$600 on equipment and the rest on brass/bullets/powder.

 

[InTraining]

You'll be happy with this choice. It took me awhile to jump in, not looking back now. Just commit to doing it right, safe, read and re-read. I can't imagine buying factory ammo now.

Good luck.

 

[Turbobo]

Great advice here on this forum. After reloading for 30 years I can say it has been a relaxing and enjoyable hobby. There are good manuals out there to show you the basics and the starter kits can get you off to a good start. As recommended, start off with lower published loads and work up. My range is full of nice shooters that are accomplished reloaders and sharing good recipes is all part of the fun and learning.

 

[HobbyShooter]

One more question.... how do I know which powder to buy? Is there a basic one or a starting one? I'll have to read back through all the posts again because I think someone mentioned something about a loading manual or somewhere where I can find basic loads to start with.

Check the Reloading Depot subforum here. There are sticky posts at the top for many of the popular calibers and recipes people have found to work for them. I'd write down all the powders that are being used with the caliber and bullet weight you plan to use. Tally how many times each one is mentioned and pick the top two. Powder will likely be the hardest component for you to find right now, so you'll have to check the major suppliers almost daily to get some. Also subscribe to the "Hide and Seek" thread since people will post up when they find something that is currently hard to find and stop by reloading supply stores anytime you're in the area.

 

[scatterbrains]

If i was starting out fresh again i would do a all inclusive kit like this one,


RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme Master Single Stage Press Kit

This is actually in stock and comes with a rebate.
Add a Lee precision die set like this

Lee Pacesetter 3-Die Set 308 Winchester

and a neck size die

Lee Collet Neck Sizer Die 308 Winchester

and a tumbler kit

Frankford Arsenal Quick-N-EZ Case Tumbler Master Kit Quick-N-EZ Rotary


These items above will give you a solid base to grow from everything youll need is included except actual components.

Best part is they are all in stock at midway, add this to the cart

Gerber Dime Multi-Tool 10 Function 3Cr13 SS

And get free shipping

 

[Temp9]

I'm going to say buy factory ammo first. If you stick with precision rifle, you will start reloading eventually. However, load development means you as the shooter has to be able to confidently shoot well enough that you can tell which loads are good or bad. My suggestion is to shoot factory match until you can shoot consistently MOA or better, then get into reloading. Don't forget to save your brass.

 

[dentout]

I'm going to say buy factory ammo first. If you stick with precision rifle, you will start reloading eventually. However, load development means you as the shooter has to be able to confidently shoot well enough that you can tell which loads are good or bad. My suggestion is to shoot factory match until you can shoot consistently MOA or better, then get into reloading. Don't forget to save your brass.

I think this is a very good idea!!

 

[ChemE1975]

It takes some time to get up and running with reloading- so chances are you are going to need to buy some factory ammo so you can shoot right now. Buy that ammo and keep the brass. Spend a bunch of time reading here in the reloading section. Since you will have some ammo to shoot you can take a bit of time to read/learn and also take some time to figure out and procure equipment.

 

[wilecoyote]

the very basic Lee SINGLE DIE .308win. reloading kit at around $20 can get you started in the reloading world , if you can read the instructions or rely on some knowledgeable buddy that can teach you his use_ from here up, the options are infinite, but handloading will be for sure the better way to LIVE and UNDERSTAND "YOUR" rifle, side by side with shooting it_

 

[scatterbrains]

I'm going to say buy factory ammo first. If you stick with precision rifle, you will start reloading eventually. However, load development means you as the shooter has to be able to confidently shoot well enough that you can tell which loads are good or bad. My suggestion is to shoot factory match until you can shoot consistently MOA or better, then get into reloading. Don't forget to save your brass.

Ill have to disagree with this for a couple of reasons.
Right now it may be hard/expensive to buy match ammo to learn to shoot better, id def buy at least 100rnds just for brass and sighting in and rifle proofing.

second reason is with a caliber like 308, 223, 243 and other largely used calibers there are recipes out there that shoot well in just about every factory gun.
So the sooner you get into reloading the sooner you can shoot much more and actually practice to get better. Around here match 308 is non existent, so i would have to scrounge around the net and many different shops to be able to come up with enough to practice or shoot a match with.

Whereas since im setup to reload i can whip up some ammo in short order, even w/o a load work up you could go to hornadys or noslers book and get the most accurate loadings they suggest or go to Dan's site and get the OCW loads for whatever caliber.

Thats my opinion on not reloading till you can shoot "MOA"

 

[nnn66]

One more question.... how do I know which powder to buy? Is there a basic one or a starting one?

You will need a manual to look up the caliber and bullet you are shooting in order to determine which powders are appropriate. Sometimes load data can be found on powder and bullet manufacturer's websites, but you'll need a good manual anyway, so get that first. In fact, get more than one manual....they are good reading! The reloading depot forum is also a good place to look at what other people are having success with. Powder can be difficult to find, so you might have to do a lot of searching and back-ordering to get what you want. I have purchased some powder off of gunbroker when all else fails. It can be costly, but you might find a good deal. I recently bought 3 pounds of Retumbo for under $100. including shipping....higher than the usual cost, but at least I got some powder in my hands without spending a fortune. I have spent many hours searching online for components and the effort eventually pays off when I find what I'm looking for.

You won't regret getting into reloading instead of buying factory ammo. I've been shooting for over 40 years, but just started reloading a few years ago. It has added a whole new dimension to shooting for me. I'm always eager to go to the range and see what my latest loads are capable of and there is just something quite rewarding about taking game with ammo that I created rather than something that I purchased ready-made. Have fun with it!

 

[Shoalwater]

If I were just starting to reload for the first time I would buy a starter kit like this

http://www.butchsreloading.com/shop/presses/491-redding-boss-pro-pack-wo-dies.html

This kit has everything you need equipment wise to get started and Redding makes quality stuff. I started with one of the Lee starter kits years ago and it worked just fine, in fact I just gave it all to my brother who just started reloading. He did some loads for the long range AR I built him on the old Lee stuff, and we shot them yesterday, best 5 shot group measured .312. Good job of reloading for his first time, but goes to show you don't have to have top end reloading equipment to load quality ammo. I think I paid around $100 for that kit originally.

 

[Temp9]

Ill have to disagree with this for a couple of reasons.
Right now it may be hard/expensive to buy match ammo to learn to shoot better, id def buy at least 100rnds just for brass and sighting in and rifle proofing.

second reason is with a caliber like 308, 223, 243 and other largely used calibers there are recipes out there that shoot well in just about every factory gun.
So the sooner you get into reloading the sooner you can shoot much more and actually practice to get better. Around here match 308 is non existent, so i would have to scrounge around the net and many different shops to be able to come up with enough to practice or shoot a match with.

Whereas since im setup to reload i can whip up some ammo in short order, even w/o a load work up you could go to hornadys or noslers book and get the most accurate loadings they suggest or go to Dan's site and get the OCW loads for whatever caliber.

Thats my opinion on not reloading till you can shoot "MOA"

That's a very good point. .308 and .223 especially are quite forgiving in terms of finding a good load. But in my opinion, this still gives another source of doubt as far as if the "flyer" came from the reloads or the shooter. I see what you mean about not really having to work up a load for these cartridges, though.

As to your second reason, powder is all but impossible to find near me. If I'm lucky, I'll find some pistol powders. I found some Ramshot TAC once at a local Sportsman's Warehouse. That's about it. On the other hand, online inventory for match .308 is increasing every day. I bought 100 rounds of 168gr SMK Norma for just a hair over a dollar per round about a month ago, and it isn't too hard to find 168gr FGMM now. I'd much rather buy ammo online than powder (hazmat shipping...). Also, whipping up ammo may be short order to you, but for a new reloader, there's a fairly large learning curve. That's how it worked for me, although I may just be a slow learner.

To the OP, if you do decide to get into reloading now, I highly recommend the Berger reloading manual. It's specifically tailored to precision rifle with tons of good info about precision shooting in general. Actually, it's a very good read even if you don't reload.

 

[Desert_308]

As mentioned your initial purchase must include "at least" two good loading manuals.

Sierra and Hornady publish two of the best. Get them ASAP.

 

[diego-ted]

I sent you a pm

Tedious

 

[ChrisGarrett]

$1 round for match ammo? FGMM if you can find it seems to be fetching almost $2 round. Cheaper online but you pay shipping.. Should Mach the reloading des ion even easier.




Jt

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

That was his number, not mine.

The last I checked, a couple of months back, Palmetto State Armory had one sixty-eight grain FGMM for right around twenty-two a box., so a dollar ten a round before shipping. Places like Bass Pro, Gander, or Cabellas, it's always been up towards a buck fifty a round.

People can get Pvri Partisen for under a buck a round, IIRC.

Anyhow...the more you pay for match ammo, the more I'm able to validate my point about getting into reloading.

To be fair, you can sell that five hundred pieces of FGMMs .308 brass for at least a hundred bucks, so now you're down to four hundred dollars for the five hundred round box, or eighty cents a pop before shipping.

Chris

 

[fx77]

Long run...reloading is better for accuracy and For price
Use this site to calculate your break-even point

Handloading Cost Calculator

 

[turbo54]

List your city, state and you may receive a mentorship offer from a local Hide member.

You will absolutely need a mentor. Preferably not a hack.

Best response in the thread...

Except maybe for this one:

I sent you a PM

With no mentor, buy factory ammo a while, otherwise you'll chase your ass determining if it's you or the ammo that sucks.

With the mentor, you'll be off to the races in no time, making ammo that's better than you can shoot it.

 

[awp762]

Best response in the thread...

Except maybe for this one:



With no mentor, buy factory ammo a while, otherwise you'll chase your ass determining if it's you or the ammo that sucks.

With the mentor, you'll be off to the races in no time, making ammo that's better than you can shoot it.

Agree with turbo54, This is the best advice.
I mentored a local hide member when he started loading. First with his 243 then with his .308
He was a quick learner who asked questions when needed & he takes all necessary safety precautions.
Knowing how he loads & how his loads shoot I have no issues using his ammo/rifle.

 

[Temp9]

Agree with turbo54, This is the best advice.
I mentored a local hide member when he started loading. First with his 243 then with his .308
He was a quick learner who asked questions when needed & he takes all necessary safety precautions.
Knowing how he loads & how his loads shoot I have no issues using his ammo/rifle.

Yup, forget what I said earlier (well, don't completely forget it). If you can get components and a good mentor, reloading right off the bat is a pretty good way to go. Having confidence in your system (rifle, ammo, and scope) will let you focus on the fundamentals. Whether the confidence is from good reloads or factory match doesn't really matter.

 

[pmclaine]

"Give a man a fish, he will eat for the day. Teach a man to fish he will eat for a lifetime."

A lot of people went hungry during the ammo drought of 2012-2013.

 

[ChrisGarrett]

"Give a man a fish, he will eat for the day. Teach a man to fish he will eat for a lifetime."

A lot of people went hungry during the ammo drought of 2012-2013.

The same group that went hungry in 2008, so I don't feel sorry for them.

It's always nice to have somebody who knows what they're doing, helping you out, but if a person reads and then rereads the manuals and tutorials here and on other sites, there's no problem with being able to load safe and accurate ammo.

Chris

 

[scudzuki]

I shot for a while before I bought reloading gear, collecting brass along the way.
Having an ample supply of brass on hand made getting started a little cheaper.

I read a lot before I started.
Now, I can truly say I enjoy reloading almost as much as I enjoy shooting.
With all the money I've spent on reloading gear and components, I'm sure I'm not saving money, especially with the scarcity of ammo today; you can barely find the stuff to buy. But while my friends don't shoot much because they don't want to use up what little ammo they have, I shoot all I want. Hell, I hook them up with ammo just so we can go shooting together.

If you are considering reloading, then go for it. The advice to get a mentor is a good one.

Joe

 

[Hairball]

I have been reloading for years and I am not sure that reloading is going to save any big money. I say this because reloaders tend to shoot more so they spend more. I know my equipment has continued to evolve as I learned more and like many reloaders, I have spent more than a fair share of good money on junk that eventually gets replaced or upgraded. While you can take a reloaded round and say that the round costs "X" compared to a factory load, if you are comparing routine stuff the savings is limited and reset every time you dive into a new caliber. Reload for accuracy and if you find you save a little here and there then thats a bonus. JMHO

 

[diego-ted]

I got a RCBS rockchucker supreme master reloading kit and it has dang near everything you'd need to start out with.

Single stage press
505 beam scale
powder funnel
powder dispenser (not needed to start with, but nice to have)
reloading tray
hand priming tool with flip tray
deburring/chamfering tool
case lube and case lube pad (messy, but it will get you started)
and other odds and ends

It sells for a little over $300 and I think they're still doing a $50 rebate. That leaves you $200 for:

dies ~ $40
shell holder ~ $8
caliper gauge ~ $30
case trimmer (I use the Lyman e-zee trim) ~ $25
tumbler or ultrasonic cleaner ~ $100
primer pocket cleaner or uniformer (I use the Lyman hand tool) ~ $17



^^^^^^^

Bang for the Buck!!

 

[JoshcBoucher]

This is "pretty much" how I started out, 30 some odd years ago. Still have my original press, and scale, and they work fine, to this day. I think you'll find a mixture of both ideas, will work for you. Buy some factory stuff. shoot it and reuse the brass. You'll get a "benchmark" from that, while you "practice" reloading, and shooting. I wouldn't start with reloads only. Would be like the first night, with the new baby, at home. I shot alot, before I started reloading. As to the "saving money" idea? Not so much. On paper, it looks good, but MY reality, lateley....... Instead of shooting 50 rnds, I'll shoot 100-200, per session, cause, "well", AM saving money. Then I provide my friends with ammo, cause ,"well",I am saving money...so it goes. But, I have to say... When your Bud shoots a 2 in. group with his "factory fodder" and then shoots a 1/2 in. "one hole" with your hand loads, it's kind of like that commercial....PRICELESS!

I got a RCBS rockchucker supreme master reloading kit and it has dang near everything you'd need to start out with.

Single stage press
505 beam scale
powder funnel
powder dispenser (not needed to start with, but nice to have)
reloading tray
hand priming tool with flip tray
deburring/chamfering tool
case lube and case lube pad (messy, but it will get you started)
and other odds and ends

It sells for a little over $300 and I think they're still doing a $50 rebate. That leaves you $200 for:

dies ~ $40
shell holder ~ $8
caliper gauge ~ $30
case trimmer (I use the Lyman e-zee trim) ~ $25
tumbler or ultrasonic cleaner ~ $100
primer pocket cleaner or uniformer (I use the Lyman hand tool) ~ $17



^^^^^^^

Bang for the Buck!!

 

[diego-ted]

So tell us how is it going with the project?

 

[TRTAC]

Opt for the reloading equipment. It will save you the money in the long run.

 

[SDmtnbkr]

So tell us how is it going with the project?

I was actually gonna start a whole new thread!!

But for those of you who helped tip my desicion into reloading you'll be happy to head that after seeing this thread and seeing that I'm local Ted here took me under his wing and has been mentoring me in Reloading!! He's gone WAY above and beyond to help get me started and teach me so much i couldn't imagine how long it would have taken me to figure this stuff out! I def have a long way to go, but thanks to Ted I'm well on my way and have already done my first load development for my rifle!!

For starters, since this thread was originally about reloading equipment and to help any other weary shooters searching for tips to get into reloading... let's list what I've gotten!

After working with Ted for a couple weeks and learning what I actually needed, not what I thought I needed (and had no idea what they were in the first place) this is what I ended up with along with my brand spanking new to reloading take on it.

RCBS Reloading Kit:
Best kit for the buck IMO, I really liked the feel and build of the rock chucker press over the Lee or Honrady. This kit comes with all the starting essential like press, 505 scale, powder measure, priming tool, reloading manual, chamfer & deburring tool...etc.

Redding Master Hunter FL/Seater die set:
This is the main dies you'll be using to size your brass and seat the bullet. I went expensive cause I have the dough to spend and I like to buy things once, plus I'm aiming to build the more precise rounds possible. I've read TONS of people that get away with Lee's basic dies

Lee collet neck sizer die :
This is used to form just the neck as I didn't want to use a bushing die set

RCBS Shell holder x 2
You need these for your press and priming tool, i just got 2 for ease

Tumbler:
this is what cleans your brass for the next go around

RCBS Stuck case remover:
This is insurance for if I brain fart and don't lube a case and it gets stuck in my press. It's basically a little kit to tap and remove your stuck case if you forget to lube it when resizing. There's some dies that don't need lube, and certain types of dies don't use it (like if you're just depriming) so know if yours/or that type of die does!

One Shot case lube:
Lube you cases BEFORE sizing your brass! **some exceptions apply, but not with my dies

Berger Reloading Manual:
Buy a manual, I liked this one... in hard cover.... cause hard covers are cool in my book

Kinetic Bullet puller:
This helps me when I seat my bullet to low and need to pull it out a little, or if you need to take down a bullet for some reason (like if during your load development you reach your pressure limit and have rounds that you've made that are too hot for you gun... or knock a bunch of load development rounds over on the table and now you don't have any idea what each round has.

Lyman Universal Case Trimmer w/pwr adapter:
You need to trim your brass every so often, I'm very OCD and Anal so I really liked this precision trimmer as apposed to one of the hand help cheap ones. PLUS after only 50 rnds with the hand crank (on Ted's older one that I was using) I was ready to drop extra cash on one with a power adapter! My fingers were killing me and I have some tough Helicopter Mechanic fingers! lol

Hornady Comparitor Tool & Accs:
Ok this was the hardest to get my brain around! You DON'T usually size bullets from the tip to end (bullet Meplat to case Head) you size it from the widest part of the bullet (the Ogive) which is where the bullet rides the rifling in the barrel. Which would be ridiculously hard without something like this tool. So you need this to do that and with an other adapter you can measure the Headspace, which is the length of the bullet from the Head (the primer side) to the Datum (umm... more confusing, and I can barely understand this concept let alone tell someone else so look it up) which is half way up the shoulder. Sinclair makes a stainless steel version but it's out of stock everywhere on the planet in .308, so I got the Hornady one with the extra bottom anvil... cause i'm OCD lol

Digital Caliper:
Get one! The cheap $20 Chinese ones are surprisingly very accurate, but me being me, I got a cheap one until I can find a good deal on a nice Starrett digital one! I think the Mitutoyo ones are a littler nicer and would easily spend the money, but I really love that the Starrett's are the only precision calipers still made completely in the USA!


Ok so here's the breakdown:

RCBS Reloading Kit $319.00
Redding FL/Seater die set $115.00
Lee collet neck sizer die $22.00
RCBS Shell holder x 2 $8.00
Tumbler $77.00
Berger Reloading Manual $27.00
RCBS Stuck case remover $19.00
One Shot $10.00
Bullet puller $15.00
Lyman Trimmer w/pwr adapter $110.00
Hornady Comparitor Tool & Accs $45.00
Digital Caliper $25.00

Total = $792

You could cut out $75 on cheaper dies, and $50-$80 on the trimmer and be down close to $600. The kit comes with tons of useful tools and is perfect for what I need. Oh and I bought the Berger manual before the kit so you don't need that either -$27 more.

My notes about the items are from one reloading newb to another to help understand what they are.... clearly not the best explanations, but if I'm incorrect please let me know so I can change the descriptions.