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Complete BullshitApples and oranges. If he hadn’t over annealed none of this would have happened.
That is quite the crystal ball you have , too bad it's full of shit . Why do you constantly troll and mess up folk's threads ? You have proven many times you don't shit about anything , why not shut up and learn ?Apples and oranges. If he hadn’t over annealed none of this would have happened.
Yeah, this annealing topic has been flogged to death & there are numerous threads on the subject.That is quite the crystal ball you have , too bad it's full of shit . Why do you constantly troll and mess up folk's threads ? You have proven many times you don't shit about anything , why not shut up and learn ?
Complete Bullshit
Since the low temps used by most guys when annealing can't soften the brass, it's more likely that the brass was too hard & the neck would not yield.The OP set up his mandrel die with enough clearance so the case mouth did not touch the mandrel’s shoulder. So what collapsed the case shoulder was the down force via friction in the neck from the mandrel. It means the shoulder was too soft.
Since the low temps used by most guys when annealing can't soften the brass, it's more likely that the brass was too hard & the neck would not yield.
In my experience, the softer brass reacts in the opposite way whereby the neck hoop tension is much lower than the shoulder tension during expander insertion. As previously stated, I've never collapsed a case & the expander is not hard to force into the necks either. I have to expand the necks by about 0.006" because I've removed the expander ball from the FL sizing die.
The softer brass works in favor of expander pin sizing, not against it.
Damn, you just can't stop trolling . If only you were teachable .The OP built and used an induction annealer for this.
Your point being ?This is why I’m so happy I have an amp with Aztec. No er
Yep, and performed substantial hardness testing.
First off, over annealing is not a thing. That term has no actual meaning. Most people mean that they heated the case and annealed further down the case than intended.
Point being I’m happy that an amp makes annealing perfect and I can’t F it up. Lord knows I probably would otherwise.Your point being ?
Damn, you just can't stop trolling . If only you were teachable .
"Over annealed" brass is melted brass.
What hardness do you consider hard enough? Because brass is either work hardened, fully crystallised, or melted. What degree of work hardening are you speculating is the correct amount to stop the annealing process at before a full anneal is achieved?Not necessarily. Over annealed brass is brass that was annealed too much and is too soft to work well in cartridge cases.
What hardness do you consider hard enough? Because brass is either work hardened, fully crystallised, or melted. What degree of work hardening are you speculating is the correct amount to stop the annealing process at before a full anneal is achieved?
So a full anneal. Contradictory to your previous posts.Whatever factory brass is annealed to. That hardness works well to produce excellent accuracy. If you anneal the brass softer than that then accuracy goes to shit.
So a full anneal. Contradictory to your previous posts.
The goal of annealing is to anneal. Not slightly reduce work hardening, or under anneal.
It is.
I don’t even understand what you’re trying to ask.Do you understand that brass be annealed softer from what you call “full anneal” to its melting point?
I don’t even understand what you’re trying to ask.
What state do you believe exists between annealed and melted?
What Brinell hardness is it? What Brinell do think brass manufacturers anneal to
I see. So just spittin’.
I'm telling you that annealed comes before melting.Well, no. My point is you can anneal a case softer than optimal for accuracy. You’re suggesting that factory brass is annealed to just before the point of melting. That is just not true.
I don't believe that a home annealer can over anneal.Over annealed.
I'm telling you that annealed comes before melting.
What you're doing is regurgitating dogma with no factual based evidence to back it up.
No you can't. You don't have a hardness tester.I have two AMP annealers. I can anneal cases to whatever hardness I want.
I don't believe that a home annealer can over anneal.
I've had no issues with my brass other than the necks are much softer which means that I can't get much more than about 50 Lb of bullet seating force. Normally, I size the necks to give about 30 Lb of seating force which has been working with no issues but, I wouldn't recommend necks as soft as I have to a guy who was reloading for a sheep hunt or some such.
As for the accuracy claims made by some guys, I can't measure any difference between un-annealed & annealed.
The main reason I anneal is that it makes the cases so much easier & repeatable to size.
No you can't. You don't have a hardness tester.
More dogma with zero data.I disagree. If you hear the case till it glows then it’s too soft. I think the point right before it starts to glow is optimal.
You walk each piece to your local Brinell tester and walk back to make a setting change on your AMP?Yes I can. Get a clue.
I'm quite sure the AMP unit gets the case necks to quite a bit more than a dull glow.I disagree. If you heat the case till it glows then it’s too soft. I think the point right before it starts to glow is optimal.