Re: Budget Mil/Mil Scope
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: zeeohsixinc</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 19Scout77</div><div class="ubbcode-body">For all intents and purposes, a 10x or less scope DOES NOT need an adjustable parallax. You will have ZERO issues with parallax using the Bushnell fixed 10x at 50 yards...or even closer for that matter.</div></div>
That is certainly debateable, and in my opinion bad advice. There is a reason rimfire scopes are set at 50 yards parallax. I'm not trying to shoot minute of squirrel. This is a precision trainer for our precision 308s. Look through that Bushy 10x at 50 yards and move your head a little, the reticle WILL move on the target. This will only be amplified if I decide to shoot it at 25 yards.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Rprecision</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I am confused why one would be dead set on a Mil/Mil scope for a cartridge that has a effective range of 150 yards. </div></div>
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Moadrifter</div><div class="ubbcode-body">True - if you are using the weapon for it's intended purpose a good mil reticle is all you need. </div></div>
Dead set? I believe the words I used were "nice to have but not necessary". Secondly, why would the max range of the cartridge have anything to do with whether a mil/mil is useful. Clearly you have no idea what you are talking about. My 22LR will drop 4.7 mils from a 50 yards zero at 150 yards, which by the way is certainly not max effective range of a 22LR. That is the same drop as my 308 at 600 yards. So if it is practical to have a mil/mil scope for a 308 at 600 yards then it is equally as practical for a 22LR at 150. Ok sure, I can hold over 4.7 mils, but what about when I get to 250 yards, thats a 10.8 mil drop from 50 yard zero. Now what do I do? I can hold 5 mils on my reticle, then I have 5.8 mils left that I have to convert to MOA before I can dial it. Do you see where the problem lies, and we haven't even started discussing windage or follow up shots. </div></div>
Hey common - why did you cite the first part of my post and not the second
? At the risk of getting on the wrong side of the pros around here who might have really long ranges close by, I'm with you on how much fun it is to "lob" 22LRs out to 200 and beyond. Takes some good skill especially in a wind and IMHO this experience running as fast as possible through a multi-target distance course with one of these pop guns translates to longer distance/higher velocity. You don't have to find 2,000 acres to do it in and it's a wonderful way to teach a young shooter or a brand new shooter how to holdover and use turrets! Here's the rest of my post that you didn't cite:
"However, it's funny and fun to shoot 22LR pop guns out beyond 150. They drop like a rock so it's like shooting a high velocity round 400-600 yards. If you have a good gun and match ammo you can get good accuracy out to 200+ if you properly range and do your drop calcs right. It's good practice for your mil dots and/or turret techniques when you don't have time to drive to a long range practice location. The difference between 140 yards and 200 yards is a bunch of mils and you need to get the range within a couple of yards to be within half inch of aim point. laugh Wind drift is multiplied too at these low velocities and low BCs so you need to do a good job gauging the wind to be accurate."
Having said this, I agree with 19Scout77 - you need accurate and repeatable turrets for this job too and your budget is below what's needed to get even decent turrets. IMO you should save up a little more lunch money if you want to go past the distance a hold-over scope will reach. If you want to stay in your budget - get a mil reticle scope with as much holdover as possible.
