Building a RAP - Bad idea?

[larryz71]

I did a search and couldn't find anything on the subject. I have read multiple reports of how accurate the Ruger American Predator rifles are, and personally have one in 6.5 Creedmoor that is a real shooter. My best groups are in the .3-.4 range and I would say average is around .6-.7 @ 100 yards which I have duplicated out to 600. Why mess with a $390 gun that shoots that good? Well IMO, the trigger leaves plenty to be desired, and the ergonomics of the rifle aren't the best for long range shooting, especially in prone.

Question for you experts: Is it worth building my Ruger American Predator, or am I better of leaving well enough alone and starting with something like a Tikka T3x CTR?

Please give a reason with your response. I figure there has to be a reason, as the link below is the only literature I have found indicating it may be a good idea to build a lowly RAP.

The only thing I can think of is the action? Aftermarket options for Triggers, chassis/stocks, and obvisouly barrels are available and it seems like aftermarket support is continually expanding.

Thanks

https://rifleshooter.com/2017/11/building-a-custom-ruger-american-rifle/

 

[bassmaster07]

Stock was the biggest reason to pass on building up. MDT, Magpul and Laminated stock are basically your only options.

 

[b6graham]

First ask end goal. What's current rifle for? Plinking and hunting? Then it works fine. Whats new rifle for? Matches or just plinking? How is the RAP barrel gonna stand up to strings in a match?

Also consider budget. The RPR is getting a big aftermarket. The Tikka is my personal choice for a factory rifle especially now that it has support but both will run especially with new barrels

 

[ShtrRdy]

If your cold bore shots and follow on shots end up in the same place it sounds like it's a shooter.

 

[rookie7]

You can get a bolt handle with removable knob from Anarchy Outdoors, 20 Moa rail from EGW, and a Timney trigger.

Brownells also has a chassis the BRN-1 that is their branded version from MDT. It looks very similar to the Gen 2 XL.

Magpul stock isn't available yet, and Bell and Carlson have a long action available with the short action in the works if there is interest.

Also, a Boyd's Pro Varmint will improve the feel and ergonomics drastically - I put one of those on my daughter's Ruger American rimfire.

 

[Nittynate]

Go with the Tikka T3, especially because of the ease of barrel swaps and plenty of aftermarket parts available now and the Ruger is not even in the same league. If you ever have had the opportunity to cycle a Tikka it’s about as close to custom as you can get. I had put a lot of $$ into Savage (first rifle) that just sits in a safe now because of rough bolt throw among many other things.

 

[PBWalsh]

PVA sells pre-fit Ruger American and Tikka barrels. Just another excellent option for the RAP. This plus a Boyd’s Pro-Varmit/CDI AICS bottom metal would get you a nice rifle for minumal money.

http://patriotvalleyarms.com/tikka-and-ruger-american-prefit-barrel/

 

[larryz71]

First ask end goal. What's current rifle for? Plinking and hunting? Then it works fine. Whats new rifle for? Matches or just plinking? How is the RAP barrel gonna stand up to strings in a match?

Also consider budget. The RPR is getting a big aftermarket. The Tikka is my personal choice for a factory rifle especially now that it has support but both will run especially with new barrels

Good Question. Currently the rifle is just used for plinking. Made it out to 1000 for the 1st time ever, and it sparked a seemingly expensive habit of long range shooting. I have plenty of other rifles for hunting, and currently have no interest in matches. I did notice that my groups open up when shooting rapidly, but that is not much of a concern for me. When I go out to shoot I usually have time on my side.

 

[Another Casual]

If the gun shoots well now the only thing I'd do is shoot it! Maybe hit a local match or two, get some practice in and learn from others. If you do that and you still want something else you'll at least have a solid idea of what you're after, but I don't see any reason to replace a perfectly good barrel.

 

[rookie7]

@larryz71 the ? You have is it worth building? That’s up to you.

There are several shooters that have done exactly what you are describing. It is easier for most people to drop 100 to 300 here and there progressing towards their goal compared to $1500 or so all at once.

Best upgrades for the money spent?

1. Timney trigger
2. Boyd’s Pro Varmint stock
3. Larger bolt knob
4. Good muzzle brake

JMO

 

[Nittynate]

@larryz71 the ? You have is it worth building? That’s up to you.

There are several shooters that have done exactly what you are describing. It is easier for most people to drop 100 to 300 here and there progressing towards their goal compared to $1500 or so all at once.

Best upgrades for the money spent?

1. Timney trigger
2. Boyd’s Pro Varmint stock
3. Larger bolt knob
4. Good muzzle brake

JMO

Or you shoot what you got and save up that $$ to buy something that is top tier. Buy once cry once. Don’t dump a bunch of $$ into something if you are serious about shooting at longer distances to later buy something a lot nicer. A lot of top manufacturers are producing budget actions as well(Origin, Tenacity, Nucleus) I tell you this from my personal experiences. Started with Savage, quickly went to a “semi-custom” Tikka T3 and now am having a rifle built on Impact action.

 

[rookie7]

Or you shoot what you got and save up that $$ to buy something that is top tier. Buy once cry once. Don’t dump a bunch of $$ into something if you are serious about shooting at longer distances to later buy something a lot nicer. A lot of top manufacturers are producing budget actions as well(Origin, Tenacity, Nucleus) I tell you this from my personal experiences. Started with Savage, quickly went to a “semi-custom” Tikka T3 and now am having a rifle built on Impact action.

I agree 100%. It’s less expensive in the long term.

 

[Ricker]

For the PRS game you are better off with something like CTR or RPR or HMR in my opinion.

I used a RAP for a few months when I started playing in local PRS style matches. The rifle was very accurate and relatively easy to shoot but it wasn’t suited to PRS game. You will either need to accept the limitations or start upgrading which in my opinion cost me more in the long run without the full return on investment.

The main issues I had were the flexible stock and plastic rotary magazines. The stock clearance was easy to correct with a dremel but it would still flex when on a bipod. The most frustrating thing about the rifle was the magazines. The issues are well documented and Ruger will send you free replacements as many times as you ask but in my experience but they still didn’t feed reliably enough.

Both of the big problems were fixed by going to a chassis style setup but once I bought the chassis, buttstock, AICS mags, Timney trigger and a brake I had upgraded the rifle to the price of a RPR but it still only had a 22” barrel so I wasn’t getting all the velocity available in the factory ammo I was using.

When I parted out the rifle I only got about 50% return on the upgrade parts so in the long run it cost me more to getting to the right rifle.

 

[saleenvp]

I picked one up in 6.5 Grendel for a good deal at a local gun show. Put it in an ICD chassis and it is super accurate. I'm getting 1/2" MOA with 123gr SST's. I didn't build it for super long ranges, more just to have a fun 500yd rig, but for just over $1000 with glass (argos BTR 6-24), I couldn't be happier with it. I'm going to stretch it out to 1000yds this fall and see how it does.