i have approx 700 rounds through my AAC 762-SDN-6, mostly 6.5 Creedmoor. Looking into the can from the back end I noticed a buildup on the first baffle. Should I be concerned? Do I need to clean this if so how. I always heard only rimfire cans need to be cleaned.
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Suppressors Buildup inside suppressor
- Thread starter Kyskeet
- Start date
Completely normal, I personally clean mine by shooting it out........................you can google other methods. I do actually clean my rim-fire suppressor with an ultra-sonic and Simple Green Aircraft cleaner.
Are you sure it's buildup and not baffle erosion?
700 rds. of centerfire rifle ammo shouldn't cause a buildup on the baffles.
If you've been using it on a rimfire, that cause a buildup issue.
I don't think you have anything to worry about. I've shot thousands of rounds through centerfire rifle cans and have never had to clean one.
700 rds. of centerfire rifle ammo shouldn't cause a buildup on the baffles.
If you've been using it on a rimfire, that cause a buildup issue.
I don't think you have anything to worry about. I've shot thousands of rounds through centerfire rifle cans and have never had to clean one.
I have the same can, 3000 rounds no cleaning...just shot your can.
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I've been told by may in the know to just shoot them. Unless it's a 22lr can. Being that round runs so dirty I was instructed to clean it in a solution of half transmission fluid and half mineral spirits and if you have a ultrasonic cleaner that will expedite the process.
Bottom line, shoot away and don't look back. Modern gunpowder burns very clean and enjoy!
Bottom line, shoot away and don't look back. Modern gunpowder burns very clean and enjoy!
By chance are you using H1000 powder? If you are using H1000 that's the source, it's a suppressor plugger, it's very dirty and affects suppressors in a strange way vs other powders. You will need to clean you can, not just shoot out.
Past post: https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/forum/...um#post3622026
TBAC and H1000: https://thunderbeastarms.com/forum/threads/any-powders-not-recommended-for-tbac-suppressors.413/
Past post: https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/forum/...um#post3622026
TBAC and H1000: https://thunderbeastarms.com/forum/threads/any-powders-not-recommended-for-tbac-suppressors.413/
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Just buy yourself a rubber plug for the small end and get a jug of CLR (Calcium Lime and Rust remover) from Walmart or your local hardware store and then prop it up and pour the CLR in the other end and let it set for a day then rinse it out with hot water and then blow it out with a compressor and it is as good as new. I think Thunderbeast even recommends this procedure.....
My brother has Gemtech that has a few thousand rounds of mostly 260 through it, running H4350 -- never been on a rimfire. It now seems louder than it ought to and weighs like 5 ounces more than it should.
He tried the transmission fluid, mineral spirits, and kerosene thing, but I guess it didn't do much. Ultrasonic may be the next step.
He tried the transmission fluid, mineral spirits, and kerosene thing, but I guess it didn't do much. Ultrasonic may be the next step.
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Hey Raptor, have you ever tried this method, or something you found somewhere? Did you weigh before and after? Did it dump out a bunch of junk?
Yes I have done it several times. I just finished cleaning a can tonight. I let it soak for around 24 hrs. Then dump it out and flush it out with hot water. I then alternate shaking it out and all kinds of black crap falls out of it. I have a little bore light I can look into it with and it does get most all of the crap out of it. My son in law has a slick way to clean his. He pores some in a big zip lock with the suppressor in it and seals it up then every once in awhile just shakes it up. It will turn the CLR black. Check out Thunderbeasts web sight. I heard about it from a couple of different people who have had suppressors for quite awhile.
Cool. I'll probably try this out. I've never cleaned my original 30 cal, and lately I've been shooting H1000...
You need to contact Joey at Gemtech......the reason his cleaning isn't working is he is doing it WRONG.
[email protected]
Yeah, I dunno what exactly he used or where he got the method from. Seems to be a mix of ideas from the Internets.
In a previous life I spent a lot of time around a suppressor store. I've only ever seen one AAC 762-SDN6 with any baffle damage that was a workmanship issue. It happened within the first 200 rounds if memory serves me correctly. Guy was running it on a Scar 17 and the blast baffle become eroded, AAC took care of it. I would suspect it's more than likely its carbon build up. I've personally never cleaned a centerfire can and don't plan on it. Silencerco Sparrow, that's another story all together. The TBAC link about H1000 is good to know.
Thanks Raptor99 for turning me on to CLR.
I tried the Ziploc bag method, but didn't work too great for me.
I built a container for my supressor using 1 1/2 inch PVC. My can (Mack Bros Varminter 2.0 in 30 cal) fits just inside. I can fill it up using a minimal amount of CLR.
I left in in there about 24 hours, dumped it out and flushed with hot water.
What I found worked best was to fill it up with hot water, shake it a bit and then dump it out as I smacked it against my palm. Lots of crap came out. See attached. That's probably less than half of it.
Since this was my first ever cleaning (after a few thousand rounds including H1000), I filled my "shake weight" back up with fresh CLR and am going to give it one more flush.
Warning: CLR is safe to use on Stainless and Titanium. Regular steel... not so much.
I tried the Ziploc bag method, but didn't work too great for me.
I built a container for my supressor using 1 1/2 inch PVC. My can (Mack Bros Varminter 2.0 in 30 cal) fits just inside. I can fill it up using a minimal amount of CLR.
I left in in there about 24 hours, dumped it out and flushed with hot water.
What I found worked best was to fill it up with hot water, shake it a bit and then dump it out as I smacked it against my palm. Lots of crap came out. See attached. That's probably less than half of it.
Since this was my first ever cleaning (after a few thousand rounds including H1000), I filled my "shake weight" back up with fresh CLR and am going to give it one more flush.
Warning: CLR is safe to use on Stainless and Titanium. Regular steel... not so much.
Attachments
Don't do this if it's aluminum or if the finish can be damaged that way. What I do is use Kroil inside the metal pan that sits in the hot water US bath. The Kroil breaks up the gunk very well, any stubborn stuff can be picked out easy. It'll look new when done. The Kroil seems more gentle than does water and detergent. This is what I do for Liberty .22 cans.
Never really had to clean out the centerfire cans, but each mfg. has their own preferred method. AAC says you can use acetone and even gasoline (but gas must be cleaned out well) as well as just stick it in the dishwasher. It can be soaked overnight in some solvents too, then rinsed out. It's all in the card that comes with the cans and probably on their site too. I've seen some of the AAC cans have the finish stripped using US, but I don't know what they were using for media. Kroil won't do it, I know that. But I've never had to clean one and I have four of 'em. Truth be told I don't know how many each has shot but one of the SDN6's, my first one, has been used more than any other centerfire can I have and it hasn't been cleaned. More important is to clean the mounts off (brass brush, oily rag) and maybe the inside of the can where the mount fits. If it gets gunked up enough to hinder operation, then clean it. Otherwise leave it alone.
Salt and denatured alcohol, few tablespoons of rock salt and the can filled half or two thirds full the rest of the way with alcohol, plugged on both ends, shaken very well then rinsed with very hot water until positive no salt is left should get out any carbon or gunk. The rock salt won't dissolve in pure alcohol but will in hot water. This is the only way I can think of getting an abrasive action inside the can as opposed to a chemical one, and one that can be thoroughly removed and cleaned out. Possibly soaking overnight in Hoppes or Kroil or some carbon cleaner would be ideal if applicable or recommended, and may help the salt/alcohol mixture after well drained.
My advice to most of the questions on this forum is to just call the mfg. That's what I do, I come on here to get opinions about mfg.'s, not facts about them (unless the mfg. is like TBAC and is on this site and will answer all questions, many of which he's answered a million and half times, yet he's always cool about it.
