Bulk Lube, Tumbling, and Case Mouth Lubrication

[treillw]

Loading a few thousand 9mm and 5.56 rounds - non precision loads.

Questions:
1. What lube should I use? Thinking either Hornady One Shot or the Dillon Lanolin based lube. Probably doesn't matter, but I think the Hornady might be easier to clean off by tumbling after resizing.

2. How should I remove lube after resizing? I have a FART. I can wet tumble with or without pins or dry tumble in it. What cleaner is needed in the water that dissolves the lube?

3. Does the brass to bullet interface need to be lubricated with something so the bullet doesn't fuse to the brass. My buddy had this happen and nearly blew up his RUM. He had this ammunition stored for a long time. They could tell something was wrong when firing - it didn't sound right, long slow hiss or something of that nature. When pulling the bullet in the reloading press to diagnose the problem, that bullet was fused in there so badly that it ripped the brass into two pieces below the shoulder. Some of this ammo probably wont get shot for a decade or two - so I'm a little worried about it.

Thanks!

 

[waveslayer]

You can make your own lube, I did and then use a bin to shake the brass all around, I then reload the crap out of the 223. I do wipe down the loaded ammo to get excessive lube off

 

[simonp]

^^^^this, I make my own as well, its easy and cheaper than any you can buy - alcohol and lanolin in a spray bottle.

Wipe or dry tumble after wards

 

[RegionRat]

1. What lube should I use? Thinking either Hornady One Shot or the Dillon Lanolin based lube. Probably doesn't matter, but I think the Hornady might be easier to clean off by tumbling after resizing.

If you are a rookie, try them both at some point so you can make an informed choice. Each one has its own pros and cons.
Many times it is best to get a mentor to show you the ropes, and this is another place where it can make a big difference in saving you lots of time and prevent mistakes like getting a case stuck in a die. Follow the instructions and don't rush.

2. How should I remove lube after resizing? I have a FART. I can wet tumble with or without pins or dry tumble in it. What cleaner is needed in the water that dissolves the lube?

Just an opinion, but it is far easier to dry vibe tumble the lube off than it is to "wash" it off in a wet tumbler. Some folks use hydrocarbon solvents like mineral spirits or similar to dissolve the lubes. This is why getting a good mentor who is willing to show you many different methods is important. All of them can work, but there are big differences in the total system you pick.

I am of the opinion you don't want to load my wet tumbler with lanolin or lubricant, but some folks run it this way. Industrial settings are one thing, what I do at home is another. Try them all at some point if possible so you get the feel for the pros and cons of each.

You have to avoid loading up the tumbler with lubes since they can accumulate in the pins. If you wet tumble to clean sizing lube, be sure to use enough detergent to deal with the lubricants and avoid letting them build up in the pins. Many use Dawn Ultra (the blue stuff) and some Lemishine. Some folks swear by Woolite for cleaning the lanolin. They both work.

3. Does the brass to bullet interface need to be lubricated with something so the bullet doesn't fuse to the brass. My buddy had this happen and nearly blew up his RUM. He had this ammunition stored for a long time. They could tell something was wrong when firing - it didn't sound right, long slow hiss or something of that nature. When pulling the bullet in the reloading press to diagnose the problem, that bullet was fused in there so badly that it ripped the brass into two pieces below the shoulder. Some of this ammo probably wont get shot for a decade or two - so I'm a little worried about it.

Try to avoid making big batches for long term storage till after you have lots of experience, or get a very experienced mentor.

OEMs use proprietary methods to prep their brass and bullets for loading that they don't publish, which is how some ammo avoids the storage issue. Most Mil Spec ammo is sealed with a tar like pitch in the necks which also mitigates cold welding or corrosion in the necks.

Any lubricant or sealant in the neck is a big change compared to plain necks. Make sure your prep process and recipe accounts for that issue when you develop your load. This is a controversial topic and you will hear many opinions on topics like the differences between ultrasonic, wet tumble, and dry tumble, with respect to over cleaning the neck and risking galling.

Some folks play with brushing and others will intentionally apply chemicals or dry lubricants in the necks. Again, this is a controversial subject and could fill a whole thread all by itself, so I won't try here.

ETA: the use of carbide 9mm dies can get this cartridge off the table as far as lube.

I will suggest you gain some experience with just plain reloading before you tackle advanced concepts like annealing or lubricating necks. Consider using many small batch cycles to force yourself to really learn how to size and prep well before you take on large batches and advanced topics. It is possible to learn all of this quickly, but not by skipping forward too fast. Again, learning from a mentor will cut the learning curve and minimize the mistakes.

Good Luck and play it safe!

 

[acudaowner]

you have to do what you feel is right but too much lube is just too much and messy