Bullet Runout Issues??

Shadow_Warrior

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Minuteman
Jul 14, 2004
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Tulsa Ok
I have a 6.5 CM that I am loading for my Gap10 gas gun.
I am getting between .004-.007 of run out on a sized case using my Redding S Neck Bushing die set.
I have removed the expander ball and my run out is still between .004-.007.
When I measure a once fired case that has not been through the sizing die I am getting a solid .001-.003 so I dont believe its the brass or the chamber.

I have never had the issue in the past with other dies/calibers and so I'm wondering is there anything else I need to rule out before I blame my Redding dies for the runout?
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Re: Bullet Runout Issues??

Well I'm not sure what the tolerances should be but .003 TIR on a fired case out of the chamber seems excessive.... However I'm sure the brass getting tossed out of the chamber on the gas gun probably has something to do with it.

What brass are you using? What tool are you using to measure your runout? Where on the case are you taking your measurements??
 
Re: Bullet Runout Issues??

I am using 6x fired Hornady 6.5 CM brass
I just annealed the brass on the last go around.
I am using the RCBS Case Master Concentricity Gaging Tool.
I am running the pin directly over the top of the neck and about half way between the front and back edge of the neck.
Link to RCBS Gauge
 
Re: Bullet Runout Issues??

The problem could be with trying to size the neck too much in one step. Measure the neck diameter of the fired brass versus what you are trying to size to. If greater than .005 probably best to size in steps. I use Redding Competition NS dies for several calibers and encountered similar issues. Once I started sizing in steps the issue resolved itself and getting neck runout less than .001 with good brass. Brass with variations in neck wall thickness greater that .001 will give you problems regardless of what you try.
 
Re: Bullet Runout Issues??

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ZiaHunter</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The problem could be with trying to size the neck too much in one step. Measure the neck diameter of the fired brass versus what you are trying to size to. If greater than .005 probably best to size in steps. I use Redding Competition NS dies for several calibers and encountered similar issues. Once I started sizing in steps the issue resolved itself and getting neck runout less than .001 with good brass. Brass with variations in neck wall thickness greater that .001 will give you problems regardless of what you try.</div></div>

Well I measured my neck tension and I am running a .003 neck bushing for the gas gun.
What are the chances it could be the redding dies giving me bad runout?
 
Re: Bullet Runout Issues??

I have encountered runout increases when measureing after annealing, and I solved it with two different methods.
First time around I simply PFLRS my brass and that cleaned it up. The second time I was loading a cartridge that my standard process was to simply run a LEE collet neck die, as I didn't need to change the brass otherwise for that gun, that also cured the problem.
Just FYI I have found the biggest inducer of runout is your seating die, just my experience, and also why I like Forster or Redding Micrometer seating dies.

Good luck!
 
Re: Bullet Runout Issues??

Probability of the die being the issue is pretty remote. Measure the neck diameter of a fired case versus what bushing size you are using. If greater that .005 probably best to resize the neck in steps which require additional bushings.
 
Re: Bullet Runout Issues??

I also found that seating in steps helps alot.. i just barly seat the bullet.. turn 90 degrees.. seat further.. another 90.. and seat all the way.. helps to really keep the bullet straight imo. Good luck
 
Re: Bullet Runout Issues??

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Mussman</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I am using 6x fired Hornady 6.5 CM brass
I just annealed the brass on the last go around.
I am using the RCBS Case Master Concentricity Gaging Tool.
I am running the pin directly over the top of the neck and about half way between the front and back edge of the neck.
Link to RCBS Gauge </div></div>

couple things,

If you're brass starts out varying in neck wall thickness, it will only worsen after each subsequent firing and resizing as the brass flows. Most companies even Lapua tend to have a thick and thin side of brass. The premium brass tends to vary much less on the order of .001-.0015" at the worst. I've seen certain lots of winchester brass vary .002-.003" in neck wall thickness.

Neck turning can help some but it won't fix a bad piece of brass.

run your concentricity gauge on the body of the fired case and not the neck. Is there any run out? There shouldn't be or very minimal. Then measure your concentricity on the neck of the fired brass.

Once you have those measurements Then run your case through the sizer die.

Check the runout on the body of the case and then the neck. I would suspect that the runout on the body is about the same. If the neck is out of wack then I would supsect your bushing is the causes. However, I have my suspicions that it's not the bushing directly. Someone already alluded that if you're sizing down too much in one step with a bushing die that will alter your concentricity and they are correct. Redding recommends not sizing more than more than .005" in one step.

Measure a fired case neck OD. Then take a sized case and measure the neck OD. If the difference is more than .005" then you might need to size down in two steps unfortunately.

Lastly, regarding most bushing dies, including the redding. By their inherent design, bushing dies will not size the full portion of the neck. It will size about 90% of it but won't get down to the shoulder neck junction. If indeed the necks of your fired brass coming out of the chamber spins .003" TIR then after sizing your bushing is adding another .003" from a large amount sizing (over .005") then yes it's very possible that you're having such high run out numbers on your sized brass.

Personally, once I figure out how much neck tension I need for a set up, I have forster hone out the neck on my full length sizer and do away with the bushing and expander ball all together. I've been really happy with my results that way.

Nothing wrong with the bushing dies, but I prefer to have the whole portion of the neck sized. Others do not, and believe leaving that last bit of neck unsized helps with concentricity and centering the round in the chamber. To each their own.

From what i understand this is all prior to measuring run out on your loaded ammo correct? Typically seater dies, even the best of them won't make brass any straighter than it started, so I wouldn't expect your run out on loaded rounds to be any better.

The real questions is, how far are you shooting and does it make a difference for your particular shooting. If you and your rifle can shoot the difference between the higher runout rounds and the lower runout rounds and it is significant for your shooting, then I would press forward and keep trouble shooting if you desire. IF it doesn't, I wouldn't sweat it, load and shoot.

 
Re: Bullet Runout Issues??

Also you mentioned you are using freshly annealed brass. Brass that's freshly annealed tends to be a little more "sticky". Make sure you're using some sort of lube, like imperial sizing wax even on the necks to prevent dragging in the bushing on the way out. If you're not lubing your brass well enough, it could be pulling in odd places on the way out of the die.
 
Re: Bullet Runout Issues??

Ok.... well after taking all the well noted advise above I spent a few hours getting to know my press, brass and dies a little better.
At one point I had read that with the S bushing dies you only slightly want the S bushing inside the die to rattle as you shake it and so apparently I had the stem tightened to tight.
I backed it off as the instructions called for (about 1/16 turn) and my run out went back to .001-.003.
 
Re: Bullet Runout Issues??

Those whascally instwuctions!

The bushing needs a little space to move so it can self center, if you have it clamped down, it can't move, and you're forcing the brass out of concentric space to get the neck into the bushing. That's why it's supposed to float in the die. FYI