My throw lever arrived. It fits very tight on the ring and works so much better than the gnurled ring. The scope is now useable.
Rifle Scopes Burris XTR3!!!
- Thread starter D_TROS
- Start date
throw lever is a must. regardless of scope.
havnt experienced the tight ele knob but I did hear of a guy who removed a rubber gasket or somthing under the turret? obviously might effect water tightness but most of us dont shoot in moist conditions so maybe worth a try? havnt dont it myself just heard from a guy who owns a dremel therefore certified lol
GL
DT
havnt experienced the tight ele knob but I did hear of a guy who removed a rubber gasket or somthing under the turret? obviously might effect water tightness but most of us dont shoot in moist conditions so maybe worth a try? havnt dont it myself just heard from a guy who owns a dremel therefore certified lol
GL
DT
THANK YOU. Just picked one up. You sir are a credit to society.
Same. Thanks for the heads up! Much appreciated.
I haven't read through this entire thread yet. Sorry if this has been answered already.
Is there a perceptible amount of backlash in the parallax adjustment knob (in the 3.3-18 and the 5.5-30)?
Is there a perceptible amount of backlash in the parallax adjustment knob (in the 3.3-18 and the 5.5-30)?
I received one not long ago and no. None on my 3.3-18. Any minute turn is actually doing something. There’s no slop.
So I got my Burris XTR III 5.5-30 back from Burris, I sent it in because the magnification ring resistance is very tight, more so than any other scope I have and felt they could probably adjust it some. Unfortunately, what I got back was this note
Contrast that to the Vortex Gen III I just sent back due to a parallax knob being very tight, I'm sure it was within spec as well but Vortex was able to clean that up and now the parallax runs very smooth (much more to my liking). I must admit, I am a bit frustrated that Burris did nothing except hand it to a quality tech to tell me it is "normal".
And yes, I know some of you will likely respond with "put a throw lever on there" and I've had a throw lever and it helps but still tighter than it should be.
Can anyone with the new XTR Pro tell me if the resistance on the Pro is similar to the XTR III or if it is less?
So Burris did nothing to help free up the magnification resistance but simply had a "quality tech" confirm the resistance is "normal".
Contrast that to the Vortex Gen III I just sent back due to a parallax knob being very tight, I'm sure it was within spec as well but Vortex was able to clean that up and now the parallax runs very smooth (much more to my liking). I must admit, I am a bit frustrated that Burris did nothing except hand it to a quality tech to tell me it is "normal".
And yes, I know some of you will likely respond with "put a throw lever on there" and I've had a throw lever and it helps but still tighter than it should be.
Can anyone with the new XTR Pro tell me if the resistance on the Pro is similar to the XTR III or if it is less?
The PRO has less resistance than the xtr3's that I have. The mag ring on my 3.3-18 is way stiffer than my 5.5-30. I need a throw lever for the 3.3-18. I've had my 5.5-30 for a while and it seems to get better with use.
I would actually say the resistance on ALL knobs/rings on the PRO is about perfect. I did have a problem with my illumination knob when I unboxed it, but that was quickly resolved.
I would actually say the resistance on ALL knobs/rings on the PRO is about perfect. I did have a problem with my illumination knob when I unboxed it, but that was quickly resolved.
That’s highly disappointing. I guess I won’t send mine in for the turrets. If it has been 3 years since the release and it’s still tight that means it’s “normal”.
Thanks to you both (for answering my parallax slop question).
Maybe the the throw levers fit the turrets too? Sorry, just being an a55. Now I need to decide if it's worth it to deal with the turrets and mag being stiff.
To all the people bitchin' about the "aggressive" texturing on the turrets and mag ring...
You're right.
Great for gloves, but bare hands, they will chew up skin and flesh in short order.
That said, the turrets on the new one I played with are not tight at all. Though the mag ring is fairly tight, it's not unacceptable with a throw lever on it and may loosen up in time.
Glass seems excellent for the $ during the short time I peeked through it.
You're right.
Great for gloves, but bare hands, they will chew up skin and flesh in short order.
That said, the turrets on the new one I played with are not tight at all. Though the mag ring is fairly tight, it's not unacceptable with a throw lever on it and may loosen up in time.
Glass seems excellent for the $ during the short time I peeked through it.
Someone previously mentioned "dragon scales" and I agree, man these things dig in, glad they redesigned for the XTR Pro.
Yeah, honestly I thought to myself that the people whining about the aggressive texturing were soft keyboard warriors who spent more time molesting their rifles in their basement than actually shooting them.
The first time I gripped it I said, "Aah!!!" in slight pain. After a few spins I started using my other hand. I believe a tight neoprene sleeve would make a great cheap product to address the issue. I was thinking 2 sided tape+rubber or foam on the knurling area.
G-hol, thank you again for your awesome write-ups/reviews. They're helpful and the work is appreciated!
All the complaints bring me to this.. I wish companies would look beyond “influencers” and sponsored shooters to test and give honest feedback before stuff goes into production. “Influencers” have other free shit to “review” and could give two shits about stuff end user look for. Sponsored shooters are just worried about winning. They could care less if the turret is stiff or sharp. Let the keyboard warriors and anal retentive folks give some feedback. They are the ones that will 100% scrutinize a product. If the mentioned were applied, I’m sure Vortex wouldn’t be messing with the Gen 3 (turret and parallax) or re-tooling for new production.
/rant
/rant
Sorry, I don't own the scope (yet), or have access to one to see it for myself before purchasing.
Is it possible to remove the zero stop? Or have the stop position be set to what would be a hold under position?
Edit: say I wanted the stop position to be 2 mils of hold under. Is this possible? Or is the hard stop always at 0?
Is it possible to remove the zero stop? Or have the stop position be set to what would be a hold under position?
Edit: say I wanted the stop position to be 2 mils of hold under. Is this possible? Or is the hard stop always at 0?
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Yes, you can set the zero stop to be below 0 or whatever number you want. For both the PRO and XTR3.
How are you guys using the race dial? I've been to only a few matches, but safety etiquette seems to be grab you rifle from the designated rifle area when it's your turn and return it to that area when you've completed your run. When do you guys transfer you data to the turret before each stage? With the PRO I can just remove the turret and take it with me, but not so easy on the xtr3.
Yes you can set the ZS anywhere you like the reply from Chickentoast in the Pro thread explained how to do it.
Thanks for confirming. I am misunderstanding Chickentoast's response. I should be able to get it figured out, now that you guys confirmed it's possible....assuming I end up getting one or the other. Thanks all for putting up with my ignorance.
Some pics for you...
1. Start zeroed, unable to dial down.
2. Loosen cap and pull up - caps have vacuum so they try to suck back down - re-tighten.
3. Dial the amount under you would like to have. It will click now because cap is tight.
4. Loosen cap again and push it down. Re-tighten.
5. Click back to Zero!
1. Start zeroed, unable to dial down.
2. Loosen cap and pull up - caps have vacuum so they try to suck back down - re-tighten.
3. Dial the amount under you would like to have. It will click now because cap is tight.
4. Loosen cap again and push it down. Re-tighten.
5. Click back to Zero!
Thanks @Chickentoast. The last pic is the light bulb moment (for my dumb ass)....at least I think so. The knob bottoms out on the flange in between the knob and the body....and where it bottoms is the hard stop. Right?
Thanks to everyone else for the help too.
Thanks to everyone else for the help too.
Go to a bike shop. They will have a ton of old ones that have popped etc that they are just throwing away and will give you more than you need. Ask for one old mountain bike and one road bike one and that should cover you for pretty much anything
Thank you for the quick reply. I think there is an old bike in an out building of a house we bought now that I think about it.
I wonder if we can cut 1” pieces of this and sell them for $25 - “better than a throw lever, the new throw rubber!”
We can get $39.99 if we put tactical on the box.
I bet heak shrink tubing would work great for this as well and would look a little nicer.
I bet if somebody made FDE inner tubes this would 100% work!
Ya, they are called Ranger Bands. Basically the same damn thing that gets sold for wayyyy more than it should
I recently purchased 2 of the XRT3 3-18 from Camera Land. On one the turrets, parallax, and mag ring are all perfect. The other one everything was noticeable tighter, almost to the point of uncomfortable. Now after several turns of each turret and mag ring it is starting to get better, not as good as the other scope but nothing to complain about. Both scopes the reticles are very crisp, eye box is nice, and thus far I am very pleased with the optical quality.
Finally used the 3.3-18 today at the monthly match. It performed very well. The image was clear and crisp. I stayed around 13x the entire match and only backed off to see where the targets were on some stages. The reticle could be a tiny bit thicker but it’s fine the way it is where I kept it.
The eye box was very generous. There were a few stages where I couldn’t get a solid cheek weld but still managed to pull off the shots and connected.
Despite the dialing today the elevation turret still needs to loosen up a whole lot more.
The eye box was very generous. There were a few stages where I couldn’t get a solid cheek weld but still managed to pull off the shots and connected.
Despite the dialing today the elevation turret still needs to loosen up a whole lot more.
Mine has a bit of slop if you crank it fast back and forth you can feel it. Anyone else? It’s just a tiny bit of play before it hits a wall and starts moving. Seems to work okay but I have minimal rounds on it so far.
Throw rubbers is more marketable. Ranger bands sound like something for a man bun
Mine (5.5-30) was delivered yesterday. Still waiting on rings to show up so I can mount it. But I have run the parallax back and forth many, many times. No backlash. The knob itself does rub on the housing ever so slightly, in some spots.
Edit: I installed a cheater knob, to make it easier to make fine adjustments. But this also provides mechanical advantage, and exaggerates slop (if there is any)....and sure enough, there is the slightest bit of knob movement before it catches (when changing directions). /Edit
Just a follow up to all my previous zero stop questions (in case someone else finds/needs this): The zero stop is disappointing for my application....but my application is not what this scope is marketed toward (something low powered, but trying to stretch it out further than I should, along with some very close range work). There are two pins. One in the housing (fixed position). And one in the elevation knob (also a fixed position). The interference of the pins (only at zero) are what make it a hard stop at zero. As you dial down your elevation (if the knob height is set "correctly"), the two pins contact each other at a hard stop at zero. You can not move this pin-to-pin hard stop to set it at say 2 mils of hold under. But you can raise the knob so that you can dial the knob pin past the housing pin, to some amount of hold under....but there will not be a hard stop of pin-to-pin contact at your hold under number/value. The knob can be set to bottom out on the housing....but it's not exactly a hard stop on the housing....because if you're a gorilla, and you can crank down on the knob, you can grind it into the housing, past your hold under number. It is not my preference to zero at the close range that I want to dial hold under for....but I think I might have to adapt, and do that (if I really want to utilize the pin-to-pin hard stop)....or just hold under, instead of dialing it.
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Yeah, it really just jams the turret cap into the housing. This is an exposed area, so if there's any dirt there, and there will be, the "stop" also grinds to a halt. Also, mine had to be set something like 2 MRAD under other wise the turret cap wouldn't clear the ZS pin and would stop when trying to dial back to zero. This is another let down in my XTR3 experience.
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