Rifle Scopes Bushnell ERS 3.5-21x50 review.

Didn't find these two reviews until after I'd ordered a FDE ERS from Scott at Liberty, but now that I've seen both vids, they confirm what I've been seeing so far with the ERS on my 260 Imp 30*. Only thing is, I don't have any high-end glass to compare optical quality - but I'm thinking the Bushnell glass is close - maybe slightly better than what I'm used to shooting, which is Sightron SIII 6-24x50 LRMOA. Really looking forward to getting together with a good friend who's got a couple of Premier Heritage 3-15s so we can do a side-by-side comparison.

I need to shoot a box with the ERS/260 - Shooter calls for 3.5mil come-up from my 100yd zero to 600yds., and every time I've used 3.5, I wind up 5" high at 600. I've double-checked the rifle set-up & ammo specs in the app on my droid, but am still getting the high group at 600. Maybe I just need to train the app instead of doubting the scope's click value?


I've use the Shooter app with my DMR and XRS and they are both on point.... Sounds like the data entered may be a bit off.
 
This or the LRHS will be going on my shorty .308, less those Mark 6s are still on sale at liberty. I wouldn't be able to pass it up.

Though if the ERS glass is as good as my Mark 4 or better i wouldn't be disappointed at all.

I've probably asked this in other threads, but again for those of you who own these. Where would you put the glass quality? I own a USO SN-3 and a Mark 4 M2 so that's all i have to compare. Is the bushy up there with USO, Vortex Razor, NF, Leupy mark 4, etc? I need to find one to look through.
 
I started shooting in 2013 and I am thoroughly enjoying the sport.

I wanted to add my input as a newcomer as the Sniper's Hide has been an invaluable tool for me from an informative standpoint.

Of course, I have learned the best way to improve/learn is to shoot, shoot, shoot ;)

I purchased the Bushnell XRS 4.5-30x as my 1st long range rifle scope.

My deciding factor...it was the best bang/value scope from a cost point IMO.

You get everything you need...10 mil, zero stop...not to mention the Bushnell bulletproof guarantee.

I just wish it had illumination.

I do want to explore the higher end scopes like Schmidt & Bender as I develop/improve but I just couldn't pull the trigger on one as a 1st long range scope because of the price.

I thought XRS 4.5-30x 50mm was expensive being new to the sport lol.
 
If you have the option for the mark 6 at a good price i'd go for it. I like some features of the Bushnell better but i think the weight, length, and glass favors the Mark 6. Trying to get one myself, though if i can't i'll be looking for an ERS.
 
I've use the Shooter app with my DMR and XRS and they are both on point.... Sounds like the data entered may be a bit off.

I'm stumped - went down to the range and confirmed my 100yd zero with the 260 Imp while shooting over the chrono, so I had fresh velocity data to work with. Ran the numbers again on Shooter - even measured the scope height again to confirm that - and wound up 5" high at 600yds with the recommended 3.5 mil come-up. Guess I'll need to modify the Lapua 123 Scenar's G7 BC to get it to agree with Shooter's come-ups.

ETA - I checked my CED M2 against a friend's MagnetoSpeed back in August by attaching his MS chrono to his Sako 260 and shooting over the M2's skyscreens. The M2's outputs were consistently 4-6fps lower than the MS, which would be very close to correct for actual MV vs the velocity at 12' downrange.
 
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Diesel, thanks for the effort you put into this review.
I'm looking forward to the 2nd installment. My experience is that the DMR and XRS track well, and I'm interested in your experience.

I've had a few DMRs (and an HDMR) pass through my hands.
The DMR is a solid scope with no frills... no ZS, not illumination, just a rugged variable scope.
The glass is upper-good range, not alpha level, but serviceable except in the low light of dawn and dusk where an S&B might give you another 5 or 10 minutes of shooting.
I also bought an XRS when they came out.
The glass seemed exactly the same recipe as the DMR and the ET 6-24x50s I've had a few of.
The glass could not pull off 30x to my satisfaction... too dark in all but the best light, and the resolution falls off.
I liked the ZS and the 10 mil/rev turrets, in concept, anyway.
The DMR 5 mil/rev turrets on the DMR, teamed with the small amount of play in either model (no doubt a by product of the slide-locking design) made the 5 mil DMR turrets a little more confidence inspiring, as in, there was never any ambiguity reading the position. The graduations on the XRS (and the ERS) being so close together combined with a the small amount of play could appear, at a glance, to line up incorrectly.

I think because the glass limits the usefulness of magnification much above 20x, the ERS/DMR are the best in the product line. I always felt the price to upgrade to 10 mil/rev and ZS too steep, but that's just me being a cheap-a$$. Hell, the Leupy Mark 6 3-18 jumps $1k when you add illumination, so $500 or so for ZS and 10 mil turrets ain't that bad. The ERS seems to be calling my name now.
 
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How do you know if your getting the ERS version or the HDMR?

Here are the "specs" on a scope, described as Elite Tactical 3.5-21x50 Riflescope;

3.5-21x Magnification
At 13.2" long, it's the most compact in it's class
Tactical Ranging Reticle
First Focal Plane
.1 Mil click value
 
My rifle is shooting about 2 MILS high at 100 yards, and the turret is locked at the lowest "down" setting. The rifle setup is pretty basic. 20 MOA base using Seekins .92 rings. The rings have no elevation to them. The objective has about 1.5 CM of clearance from the top of the barrel. I have a feeling that the zero stop is set (though I have never set it). I have read the user manual several times, but I am having a difficult time understanding how the zero stop works. To set the stop you take off the cap, loosen the set screws, and then use an allen wrench and press down in a hole at the top of the inner turret? But there is also a screw in the middle of the turret(?) How does this screw relate to the brass ring that sets the stop? Im sorry but I am just not understanding how this all works. I assume that turning the center screw clockwise will give me additional adjustment that will allow me to get at least 2 more MILS out of the turret? Is there an online video that better explains to set and reset the zero stop? Thanks.
 
Thank you mildot326. I did see that video and he does show how to set the zero stop. I cant figure out how to re-set the stop once its set. For example, say that I have set the zero stop for a rifle, but I want to use the scope on a different rifle. How do I disengage the stop? Thanks.