Buying new reloading equipment

[Speedarino]

I sold my reloading equipment 20 years ago. It was an RCBS rockchucker starter kit that served me well for a long time. Time constraints prompted the sale and it wasn’t hard to find ammo for 270 and 308.
Now my shooting pursuits have changed from game to steel. Calibers to be covered are 6.5 Creedmoor, 300 WinMag, and 300 norma mag. Single stage is fine as I have more time these days. I’m not opposed to buying the same set up again but but don’t know about the quality of the current RCBS equipment. I’d like to know what those of you think that spend a lot of time reloading think. I’ll offer more specific questions after a dialogue is commenced.
Thanks for your response

 

[demolitionman]

I just watched an entire video on modern single stage presses. Kind of a shootout of sorts. Rcbs rock chucked came in second to the Coax for the most concentric ammo. FWIW. I’d personally be fine with most any of the modern single stages.

 

[Rillhurst]

Still running original Rockchucker circa 1982, have only upgraded handle, LED lighting and 3D printed primer catcher (buy a used one if not confident of current equipment) or go progressive with the Dillon 650. These two presses have served most of my needs for many decades.

 

[OLD308]

Kinda in the same boat but going a different route. I was robbed during a move. Lost most everything firearm related. So buying all over again. There are enough youtube videos, top level shooters, and seen it first hand, experiences to believe in the Dillon 550 for precision ammo. I know it sounds crazy, but I prefer to experiment than to repeat hear say. Bought all the stuff just getting the time to set it up and test is the issue. If it fails, and I can't see how after seeing it work so good, I could always do pistol ammo on it. Previously used the Rock chucker. Tried the CoAxel and sold it after the run out was no different. I also hand prime and de prime so that option on the Coaxel did nothing for me. I thing dies and casings have more to do with runout than the press. Just my .02, hope it helps.

 

[HaMMeRSaW2733]

I have a rockchucker. It serves it’s purpose well for my rifles. I try to pay more attention to each stage of the process. I use those rounds in my precision rifles. I am looking into a Dillon 550 also that I plan to get this week and set it up for straitwall pistols and 556. Just like anything else in this sport, sky is the limit.

 

[Shootingblanks]

Ive got a Lee classic cast single stage, two Dillon 650s and a Redding T7.

The Redding T7 or a Forester Co-Ax would most likely suit your needs.

Inline Fabrication makes some great mounts for these presses.

 

[sobrbiker883]

Read doc76251’s old stickied “reloading 101” post-sage advice.

 

[Tx_Aggie]

I have a newer production Rock Chucker that I purchased new a few years ago. It's been great, no complaints at all and it gets used several days a week this time of year. I did add a handle and press mount from Inline Fabrication, and they've been great also.

 

[flyer]

Pretty much any cast iron O style press will do pretty well but I like the idea of one press for decapping and non-precision stuff like collet bullet puller, Lee Quick Trim, bullet sizing, etc. and another press for clean stuff like sizing (after decap and cleaning) and bullet seating.

Depending on how you want to do it, a quick change die bushing setup might be something you want.

If you don't want to prime on the press, I like my Lee Auto Bench Prime but there are many other options.

 

[sissupr]

From my experience and research in order, IMO of course

Single Stage

1. Co-Ax
2. Redding Big Boss
3. RCBS or Hornady LnL
4. Lee, Lyman, etc.

Turret Press

1. New Lyman with 8 dies per head - based on value of what you get vs. the Redding out of the box
2. Redding T7
3. Hornady LnL Turret
4. Lee Turret

 

[Wulf]

I use a co-ax. If you can get your hands on one imo it’s money well spent. The universal shell holder jaws system is excellent. I love not having to have a rack of shell plates. The only part I don’t like is the opening where you put the brass can be little tight depending on your hand size or what angle you come at it from. My rounds come out nice and concentric and it doesn't take much effort to size a case. Another down side is the lock ring for the dies. If you buy forester dies it’s not a problem. But if you buy any other brand the lock rings don’t exactly fit snug. Could be a non issue or it could be I don’t know. I always use the Forster brand rings because I like the way they fit vs other company rings. The priming system is anything but fast to set up. But once it’s set to the case head it’s a breeze and does a good job setting primers. It’s my go to press I find my self using it even for rounds like 300blk out vs running my xl650.

 

[antithesis]

My RC that I purchased in '93 is now dedicated to depriming and hydro-forming. I use a co-ax for sizing, and a K&M arbor press with Wilson inline dies for seating. Pistols is done on a budget Lee turret. If it all went up in flames I would buy the exact same components again with the exception of possible a minor upgrade on the turret.

The co-ax is good, but nothing is better than an arbor press for seating. They are not stupid expensive, and the Wilson micrometer dies (I do not buy the Sinclair/Wilson micrometer) are about the same price as what you are going to pay for some 'match grade' seating die and have greater precision.

 

[Average guy]

I ran a rock chucker for years. I still have it but mainly use 2 Lyman turret presses. I load sub .5 moa ammo off of them. Really like being able to leave all of my main caliber dies set up. Seems to simplify things. I also love my RCBS charge master electronic powder measure.

 

[Milo 2.5]

and the Wilson micrometer dies (I do not buy the Sinclair/Wilson micrometer) are about the same price as what you are going to pay for some 'match grade' seating die and have greater precision.

Doesn't the manual or instructions with the dies say either use a hammer or arbor press to seat the bullets?

 

[antithesis]

Doesn't the manual or instructions with the dies say either use a hammer or arbor press to seat the bullets?

Yes, you can use either a press or a mallet (hammer is a bad idea). The arbor press will give great feedback. I have adjusted some rounds at the range with a mallet, but otherwise I use a press.

 

[bax]

Doesn't the manual or instructions with the dies say either use a hammer or arbor press to seat the bullets?

Use the mallet with the sizing/decap die. Seat with an arbor press. I seat all of my precision rifle ammo using Wilson seaters and an arbor press.

 

[Rangemaster]

Go for 21st century hydro press with the wilson dies. This is the only way to go, you can actually see your seating pressure. I only use the rock chucker to size the brass.

 

[flyer]

A friend of mine is going to sell me a Rock Chucker because he has a habit of buying used presses at gun shows and he's got many more than he needs.

After a tune up I expect it to do all my full length sizing, bullet seating and other clean tasks. My Reloader Special will move to decapping and dirty tasks. I will prime with a Lee bench prime, not in a press.

Any decent O frame press should do well. C frames and turrets can be suspect unless they are built really stout.

A Co-ax press or arbor press set up can create ammo with less bullet run-out but a good O frame press is already pretty good so in my case, the difference isn't worth worrying about (yet).

 

[antithesis]

Go for 21st century hydro press with the wilson dies. This is the only way to go, you can actually see your seating pressure. I only use the rock chucker to size the brass.

Unless you have the K&M with a Force Pack. I own some 21st stuff and it is all good, but for about 1/2 the price the K&M was a much better option for me.

 

[Rangemaster]

Unless you have the K&M with a Force Pack. I own some 21st stuff and it is all good, but for about 1/2 the price the K&M was a much better option for me.

I never said that setup was not good, its a great option and works great.
Anyway to monitor seating pressure is better then none.

 

[antithesis]

I never said that setup was not good, its a great option and works great.
Anyway to monitor seating pressure is better then none.

Right, but you did say it was the only way to go ;-)

 

[Sharpshooter3]

I’m in the Forster Coax camp. Hard to beat in my opinion.

 

[bax]

FWIW - you didn't say but, based on the calibers noted, it appears that you are going for long-range accuracy. These days, most long-range guns are bolt action repeaters with magazines. These assumptions put a few stakes in the ground:

• you want brass that is full-length sized with slight shoulder bump. Performing only neck-sizing won't work. You will probably use a full-length die on a single-stage press. Redding or better.
• Neck tension is important so you will probably use a button die and mandrels. Redding, Sinclair, etc.
• You may elect to turn necks, probably not. Most long-range people do not turn necks.
• You need precise primer control - either hand seater or there is a really nice mechanical one for about $400. I use an old Sinclair priming tool. I have used several others and came back to the Sinclair.
• At very long ranges you need exact powder charges, expect to go all-out here. I have a Sartorius scale with Adam's autothrower. Good stuff.
• If you shoot a lot - I do - you will need to trim, a lot. Buy a Giraud trimmer. Just put it on your charge card and pay when the bill comes. When you trim your first batch of cases, the value becomes really obvious. When you have trimmed 5 or 10 thousand cases, you will congratulate yourself for being smart.
• In order to maintain neck tension, I anneal after every firing. There are many opinions about brands. The electric one is probably the easiest to use. The propane torch types work too, that is what I have. They are a little twitchy to set up.

FWIW, For full-length sizing and mandrel work, I use an old RCBS A2 single-stage press. I think that any iron or steel O-style press will probably work for you. I would avoid an aluminum press - under sizing forces, the strength and elasticity of cast iron is probably best. Spent primer handling is important. The ability to easily adjust bump is important. I do that with shims I got from Sinclair, I can set bump anywhere I want in 0.001 steps. Bump is consistent and repeatable and easily adjusted.

Bullet seating is pretty individual. The key is to maintain the same jump. I seat using Wilson seaters and an arbor press. My neck tension is low because I anneal before every reload and control neck ID with sizer button and mandrel. With a low neck tension, seating pressure is low and easily within the constraints of an arbor press. The Wilson seater is as good as anything in the market. Other techniques may be faster but - in my opinion - not better. I think my arbor press was originally made by Forster but I bought it in the 90s and it doesn't have a brand on it so I'm not sure. It is stout.