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cadex chassis fluke
- Thread starter ta1on
- Start date
What did EO say when you called and informed them of this?
Im sure EO (or Cadex) take care of you. Shit happens with all companies, Cadex isnt immune.
EO is a commercial supporting member here but im not sure exactly what the user name is - someone that knows will tag them.
I always have spare 1/4-28 socket head cap screws of a known quality I use to replace factory stuff.
Curious what all of the other scratches in the finish are from ?
Edit: From your picture the top of the exposed shank of the bolt looks pretty chewed up from pliers maybe. Could you have possibly cross threaded the bolt ?
Curious what all of the other scratches in the finish are from ?
Edit: From your picture the top of the exposed shank of the bolt looks pretty chewed up from pliers maybe. Could you have possibly cross threaded the bolt ?
I'm pretty sure Cadex didn't make this screw and things do break. Should they use a better quality screw for such an expensive chassis...sure. But, you got what you got.
AR grip screws can be had for very little money from a wide variety of sources. Buy a few and move on would be my approach. Not worth the heart burn
So far, nothing trying to push back. We need more time, what time ? i just got it haha
I was trying to extract the thread, i barely apply any tourque it is cheap screw, shame 2400$ chassis. I own two Accuracy International AXSR, Quality is much higher. Extremely disappointment. i need to contact Cadex
That grip looks mangled. Not really consistent with "barely any pressure".
There's zero chance this is a simpel bolt failure. Sorry... almost surelt cross threaded and seized.
There's zero chance this is a simpel bolt failure. Sorry... almost surelt cross threaded and seized.
i have put the oil they supplied, and yes it it is Cadex fault, there was almost no strain.
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So this is a cheap screw and you didn't apply any force, but simultaneously you can't remove it with pliers? Sounds alot like you cross threaded it....
There’s something odd going on here. You said this happened when you were tightening the screw with “barely any pressure.” Yet after it broke off, the screw appears to be so badly stuck in the chassis that you can’t even get it to twist out with pliers. One of those statements has to be false.
I'd love to see a picture directly over top of the bolt or from the side at the same angle as the piece it threads into. I'm willing to bet the bolt will be cock-eyed
This is not the first chassis I have installed. The scratches are a result of my attempt to extract the thread using very low-quality screws. I am not trying to bring any shame; rather, I am extremely disappointed. Even if Cadex refuses to replace the chassis (which I don't want; I just want a refund), I will not cause a fuss. I simply wanted to share my experience.
The odds of this thing shearing in half without you hitting min torque > 65in-lbs has to be near zero. Working tension for 1/4-28 is listed as with 87 in lbs, its failure point will be way higher. ie thats a substantial amount of torque to failure, typically well beyond what you would put on an action screw (65 in lb)...which also explains/is consistent with story of it would't come out.
You haven’t addressed my point at all. One of your two claims has to be a lie. If you were tightening the screw with “barely any pressure,” it cannot possibly be stuck so hard in the metal.
If i was using too much force using the tool they gave me im super man. and im not lying
I don’t believe you. I think you cross-threaded it and you couldn’t understand why it was so hard to screw in before the grip was tight, but you knew it needed to go in further, so you were cranking on the end of a good-size Allen wrench or T-handle because you don’t have a torque wrench and you broke it off.
Cross-threading could be caused by various root problems, like issues with the male or female threads, not simply just user error.
But if this thing is aluminum and it was cross threaded, it doesn't always have alot of resistance while its doing the cross threading (due to alu bein very soft ) and the feedback only comes later when somethin catastrophic happens...like it gets seized...then you feel some pressure and you think its bolt tension...but its really not...the bolt face is off the surface...you you try to "get a bit of bolt feel" and you just keep pushing untl...well, then its too late...
But I don't want to put words in the OPs mouth or imaging what may or may not have happened or who is to blame. But there is more to the story because in general even mid-grade screws of this size simply aren't going to fall apart...
But if this thing is aluminum and it was cross threaded, it doesn't always have alot of resistance while its doing the cross threading (due to alu bein very soft ) and the feedback only comes later when somethin catastrophic happens...like it gets seized...then you feel some pressure and you think its bolt tension...but its really not...the bolt face is off the surface...you you try to "get a bit of bolt feel" and you just keep pushing untl...well, then its too late...
But I don't want to put words in the OPs mouth or imaging what may or may not have happened or who is to blame. But there is more to the story because in general even mid-grade screws of this size simply aren't going to fall apart...
The good news is cadex has amazing customer service and will look after you. But if you're going to ask for a refund over something like that, something tells me there is more to this than you're saying. Who would ask for a refund on a top tier chassis because a bolt broke, even if you are 100% telling the truth. That's just ridiculous to me.
As I said, it might be my fault, I never had thing like this happen to me before, I installed MDT chassis before without any issues or broken thread.Cross-threading could be caused by various root problems, like issues with the male or female threads, not simply just user error.
But if this thing is aluminum and it was cross threaded, it doesn't always have alot of resistance while its doing the cross threading (due to alu bein very soft ) and the feedback only comes later when somethin catastrophic happens...like it gets seized...then you feel some pressure and you think its bolt tension...but its really not...the bolt face is off the surface...you you try to "get a bit of bolt feel" and you just keep pushing untl...well, then its too late...
But I don't want to put words in the OPs mouth or imaging what may or may not have happened or who is to blame. But there is more to the story because in general even mid-grade screws of this size simply aren't going to fall apart...
One its fixed, its pre disastered so it's gonna be great forever after that.
Hopefully a time-sert or whatever they use these days will make a solid repair. It may actually be better than new with some SS threads vs alu threads in the original.
As mentioned above, its very possible that cheap hardware could cause cross threading. or q QC issue with the OEM threaded hole might be to blame, etc.
But I'd go in asking for a repair and be honest with what the story is.
The best way to take out a screw like that is going to be locking pliers, ie vice grips, but let a professional do the work, because if you wallow-out that hole tring to remove the part...you will make a time-sert style repair harder....at this stage ie of obvious failure...you really want a nice hole...ie straight, round, and of minimal size over spec.
And by putting vice grips on that screw is not going to look at all very consistent with following the OEM assembly directions...
Get an appropriately sized pair of vise grips, clamp them on the shank good and tight and back it out.
Chase the threads with a good tap and carry on.
Or just wait for Cadex to respond if you don't feel comfortable sorting it out yourself.
For future reference always pre check ( Dry Run ) all threaded connections prior to final assembly especially any that have had some form of final coating like cerakote since there is a possibility of some build up and you can actually see what is going on.
I'm sure it will be fine once the broken bolt is removed and threads chased.
Chase the threads with a good tap and carry on.
Or just wait for Cadex to respond if you don't feel comfortable sorting it out yourself.
For future reference always pre check ( Dry Run ) all threaded connections prior to final assembly especially any that have had some form of final coating like cerakote since there is a possibility of some build up and you can actually see what is going on.
I'm sure it will be fine once the broken bolt is removed and threads chased.
Luckily their chassis are very modular. That piece can be removed with a few screws and a new one sent probably overnight.Hopefully a time-sert or whatever they use these days will make a solid repair. It may actually be better than new with some SS threads vs alu threads in the original.
As mentioned above, its very possible that cheap hardware could cause cross threading. or q QC issue with the OEM threaded hole might be to blame, etc.
But I'd go in asking for a repair and be honest with what the story is.
The best way to take out a screw like that is going to be locking pliers, ie vice grips, but let a professional do the work, because if you wallow-out that hole tring to remove the part...you will make a time-sert style repair harder....at this stage ie of obvious failure...you really want a nice hole...ie straight, round, and of minimal size over spec.
And by putting vice grips on that screw is not going to look at all very consistent with following the OEM assembly directions...
Cadex will take care of you, they are a great company that makes a great product. I’ve had very similar experiences with EVERY ar15 grip I have ever installed - albeit I’ve never messed it up quite so much. Worst case scenario the threaded piece is replaceable and you end up replacing it.
Once you get the bolt out you will need to chase the threads with a tap and get a new bolt, and you’ll be ready to rock n roll
Once you get the bolt out you will need to chase the threads with a tap and get a new bolt, and you’ll be ready to rock n roll
If that was the case, would that be enough to make the bolt seize? I think it would take quite a bit of force to get it to seize if it was threaded straight. Hard to tell from that angle, but it doesn't look too off either. I almost cross threaded that same bolt on my cadex chassis so I know how easy it is to make that mistake.
I wouldn't do anything in regards to removing what's left of the broken screw until you contact Cadex. And based on the damage from your extraction attempt in your picture, if you do insist on removing the broken screw on your own, maybe find someone qualified to do so before you make the situation worse.
If it isn't a tapped all the way through hole it's certainly possible if it was to long.
Aluminum can gall and seize pretty easy.
One of the only taps I've ever broken was tapping Aluminum going to fast and it gummed up on the tap.
it went in straight and then bottomed out, he torqued it enough to break it so it is in there hard. It will take some force to break it loose and back it out. As suggested vise grips will probably do it. To add to XLR308's comment, on a blind hole the last 2-3 threads won't be fully cut because of the design of a tap. This would cause a cross thread effect right before it bottomed out. So it is stuck pretty good.
I'd probably cut some of the threads at the very top and try to find a nut that fits. Then I'd engage the nut a few threads and weld it in place. Now you can the stuck bolt out with said nut welded on.
Any chance you can define what you mean by this?
I'm my limited (sarcasm) experience with fasteners, strain (of any type) with respect to installing fasteners is a big, giant red flag.
I'm my limited (sarcasm) experience with fasteners, strain (of any type) with respect to installing fasteners is a big, giant red flag.
I have to agree with @Conqueror if there wasn't any resistance on the bolt it should basically back out by hand. If you force fucked it in there that's gonna be different. Either way I don't think it's Cadex fault. Basically I'd pull the bolt out, inspect threads get a new bolt and carry on. I wouldn't have made this post or contacted Cadex.
^^^...I don't understand why some people come running to the internet with this stuff. Resolve it by yourself or between you and the company and move on.
If the company clearly fucked up (and that's far from clear in this case) AND they refuse to make it right, I can see starting a thread about it...
So far they rhavent do anything, i solved it by myself. i Solved it my self, open the broken screw, no damage was done to the internal thread. Now trying to find alternative to missing part they forgot to install, amazing!
I manage to extract the screw, no damage was done to the internal thread. Unfortunately the screw just snapped, if i "screwed" up was great lesson. Never happen to me with any other chassis.
Fixed, took the screw out, no damage to the internal thread! Yea, not major damage.Any chance you can define what you mean by this?
I'm my limited (sarcasm) experience with fasteners, strain (of any type) with respect to installing fasteners is a big, giant red flag.
View attachment 8441355
Glad you fixed it but you could done so without letting the internet know about it..Probably would have been resolved yesterday, since you wouldn't have had to divide your time between working the problem and responding to this thread.
i couldn't be more happy for posting it, since i got nice tip from one of the members, something i cannot say about the reseller that went mute.
Here's a Good use of $12
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Glad to hear it.
Unless part of the fastening system is like a lock nut, the bolts and nuts should thread all the way without the use of tools.
When you meet any resistance, just stop. Assess the issue, but never crank harder on them.
One of the barrel holder, check the left up, improvised.
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Did you do a good check of all the packaging? I had 2 pieces fall out of my chassis during shipping.
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