Carbon Ring From Hell

[Brux]

Ok boys,lay it on me. Whats the best way to get rid of one?

 

[Supersubes]

CLR.

 

[Brux]

Like what you clean your bathroom with?

 

[stello1001]

Put a brass or nylon brush on your drill, use some CLR and apply on brush, go home with it...

Also, soak some patches with CLR and leave on carbon ring for an hour. It's probably best to do this first, then do the drill/brush method afterwards...

 

[stello1001]

Like what you clean your bathroom with?

Yes, exactly that...

 

[Supersubes]

Like what you clean your bathroom with?

Yes

 

[Brux]

Using a drill,what did you use as a adapter to get your brush in the action far enough?

 

[stello1001]

Using a drill,what did you use as a adapter to get your brush in the action far enough?

I have two cleaning rods that are threaded to accept my brush. One is 48 inches long and the other is like 36 inches I believe. The shorter one is sectioned into 3 different pieces, which all thread into each other to complete the whole thing.

I use two sections with the brush on one end and the other end remains bare so that I can put it on my drill. It's fairly simple, but you would have to have the right stuff...

 

[Brux]

That's what I was thinking. I use to have a 3 piece rod but don't know if I still have it.

 

[gebhardt02]

I just use regular ol Hoppes and bronze brush. Scrub. Scrub a lot. Of course, use a good bore guide. Then wipe out foam.

 

[MACHTECH]

I also use a bronze brush on a pistol length rod in my drill motor, but with G96 nitro solvent (a lot safer on your bore!)

I measure with my bore scope the depth of the carbon ring and mark the rod depth with masking tape to insure not getting into the rifling. The most stubborn carbon rings come out in seconds!

Sorry the pic came out so big.

 

[Danrobberg]

I had a thread protector for the threads on the chamber end of the barrel. I put that on and poured CLR down the muzzle and let the barrel sit vertically for an hour. Then I used a brass brush on a drill as described above. Worked great. You could use a baggie or tape on the chamber to keep the clr in there for a while.

 

[Danrobberg]

If you look close you can see the flakes of carbon that came out

 

[stello1001]

I had a thread protector for the threads on the chamber end of the barrel. I put that on and poured CLR down the muzzle and let the barrel sit vertically for an hour. Then I used a brass brush on a drill as described above. Worked great. You could use a baggie or tape on the chamber to keep the clr in there for a while.

Wait, so did you remove the barrel from the action?

And are you saying that you inserted the brush/drill through the muzzle end while keeping the barrel standing vertical with the CLR in it?

 

[Danrobberg]

I removed the barrel from the action. After letting it sit straight up and down with the clr soaking in the barrel for an hour I then removed the end cap from the chamber threads and inserted the brass brush from the chamber end. You could use anything from tape to a plastic baggie or plastic wrap to seal the chamber end of the barrel so the clr sits in there and soaks.

 

[stello1001]

I removed the barrel from the action. After letting it sit straight up and down with the clr soaking in the barrel for an hour I then removed the end cap from the chamber threads and inserted the brass brush from the chamber end. You could use anything from tape to a plastic baggie or plastic wrap to seal the chamber end of the barrel so the clr sits in there and soaks.

Thank you for the clarification...

 

[viking78]

Is this ok to go?

 

[BCX]

KG-1 Carbon remover is the best i have used.

 

[jbell]

this does it for me, also works great on muzzles and muzzle devices

Carbon Remover Solvent | Find the Best C4 Carbon Cleaner for Guns - Bore Tech

Cutting through carbon fouling on your firearm is a breeze with C4 Carbon Remover from Bore Tech. Even the most stubborn baked-on carbon is no match for this carbon remover. For the best carbon removing chemicals for gun cleaning, you have to choose Bore Tech. Shop our entire collection of bore...

www.boretech.com

 

[BCX]

KG 1 for carbon and KG 12 for copper w a nylon brush. KG products has cut my cleaning time down to minutes vs hours to days to clean barrels! No way in hell would I use a drill w a bronze brush in a match grade barrel. Pistols and shotguns barrels I have used drills w brushes for stubborn lead deposits.

 

[Skunkworx]

CLR works amazing on carbon. Let it soak for 30 minutes and the carbon can be wipe away.

 

[RRW]

How many rds fired before cleaning? Every time a cleaning topic comes up, there are always the ones that defiantly claim "What's cleaning" or "I never clean until my accuracy drops off" etc etc. The best way imo to avoid the dreaded carbon ring is by some form of maintenance.

 

[ubettcha]

Yamaha ring free or mercury quickkleen is what I use to cut carbon. This is used to keep the O2 sensors in 2stroke outboards carbon-free. I soak my muzzle brake while cleaning and everything just wipe off. If you soak the chamber end or just wet the throat/carbon ring it will work fast and is safe for your barrel.
I brush the throat with a dry nylon brush after every session a thorough clean if it's going to sit or be stored and when the accuracy falls off.

 

[Brux]

I have KG-1 and Yamaha ring free on hand, I have nylon and bronze brushes and a chamber brush.
So whats the best method? Drill or no drill or whatever?

 

[RTH1800]

If you utilize a powered rotary method you WILL damage the barrel.
I recommend a combination of soaking and linear brushing utilizing a bore guide and much care and attention to detail.

 

[Terry of illinois]

I believe that there is a article in rifle shooter mag by Jim Kauber on how to remove carbon ring buildup It is simply and easy fairly fast but most of all it works . He give the reason to do it this way and how to do it with out harming youth barrel .

 

[ubettcha]

I have KG-1 and Yamaha ring free on hand, I have nylon and bronze brushes and a chamber brush.
So whats the best method? Drill or no drill or whatever?

soak it and stroke it. If you use a drill it will damage a fine barrel if it's a factory barrel go ahead and use the drill. You need a good barrel and that will force the issue sooner

 

[Brux]

soak it and stroke it. If you use a drill it will damage a fine barrel if it's a factory barrel go ahead and use the drill. You need a good barrel and that will force the issue sooner

Its a Bartlein

 

[308pirate]

Find a drill bit a few thou under your land diameter, chuck it up, and get after it

 

[Danrobberg]

I used a nylon brush not a brass brush. But brass is softer than steel so if you’re careful you should be able to do it without damage. Don’t go full speed either. I put it at the lowest setting.

 

[salks]

I know I've used CLR on a muzzle brake. I soaked it in CLR and the carbon turned to goo. Worked like nothing else I had ever seen.

 

[abn31c]

1 to 1 vinegar and hydrogen peroxide will work well also. Ive had 1 carbon ring, stopped using rl16 and all my problems went away?

 

[spife7980]

1 to 1 vinegar and hydrogen peroxide will work well also. Ive had 1 carbon ring, stopped using rl16 and all my problems went away?

The vinegar and hydrogen peroxide is called “the dip” if you want to google it and it creates lead acetate which can soak into your skin and give you lead poisoning. So if you do this do not touch it with skin and do not pour the left over liquid down the drain, take it to your local chemical/hazardous waste recycler.

 

[abn31c]

The vinegar and hydrogen peroxide is called “the dip” if you want to google it and it creates lead acetate which can soak into your skin and give you lead poisoning. So if you do this do not touch it with skin and do not pour the left over liquid down the drain, take it to your local chemical/hazardous waste recycler.

???did not know this!

 

[spife7980]

???did not know this!

I bet you found out that it so works well, it’s just risky. Straight vinegar works alright by itself. I prefer boretech though, it’s pretty good but it won’t mess anything up, about as safe for you and the material you can get.

I’d soak a patch and stick it in the throat where you can feel it’s just tight in the neck and rafting down the bore and and tilt the muzzle down and then squirt a bit more boretech into the chamber so that it can keep the ring soaking. It’ll get gummy and come right out soon enough. And there’s no such thing as sitting too long suck as with clr so you could leave it for a couple hours or over night etc and let it really dissolve no matter the material.

 

[abn31c]

I bet you found out that it so works well, it’s just risky. Straight vinegar works alright by itself. I prefer boretech though, it’s pretty good but it won’t mess anything up, about as safe for you and the material you can get.

I’d soak a patch and stick it in the throat where you can feel it’s just tight in the neck and rafting down the bore and and tilt the muzzle down and then squirt a bit more boretech into the chamber so that it can keep the ring soaking. It’ll get gummy and come right out soon enough. And there’s no such thing as sitting too long suck as with clr so you could leave it for a couple hours or over night etc and let it really dissolve no matter the material.

I have been using boretech for a while, only tried the vinegar trick once. Hope I dont die.?

 

[davere]

CLR works better than C4 for me - but C4 works well. I switched to C4 when I started using a Hellfire... don't want to discolor the finish with CLR, so...

 

[Skunkworx]

CLR works better than C4 for me - but C4 works well. I switched to C4 when I started using a Hellfire... don't want to discolor the finish with CLR, so...

The rosey color?

 

[davere]

The rosey color?

Ya

 

[Skunkworx]

Ya

you can avoid that by not soaking your brake overnight. It’s just the dissolved copper reattaching/plating itself to the exterior of the brake. If worse come to worse you can soak your now pink brake in bore solvent to remove the copper plating and you’re back to the original finish.

 

[salks]

you can avoid that by not soaking your brake overnight. It’s just the dissolved copper reattaching/plating itself to the exterior of the brake. If worse come to worse you can soak your now pink brake in bore solvent to remove the copper plating and you’re back to the original finish.

Yep, mine turned kinda pinkish , just wiped it with some copper solvent.

 

[Campguy308]

@Brux what powder are you using? FWIW, I use CLR on a 30 cal nylon brush for 6.5 cal attached to a drill.

 

[davere]

you can avoid that by not soaking your brake overnight. It’s just the dissolved copper reattaching/plating itself to the exterior of the brake. If worse come to worse you can soak your now pink brake in bore solvent to remove the copper plating and you’re back to the original finish.

I don't soak it overnight - it goes in the solution, in a glass jar, and that goes in the ultrasonic for about 30 minutes (at least, with C4). Interesting to know about the source of the color, though - thanks for that!

 

[Brux]

@Brux what powder are you using? FWIW, I use CLR on a 30 cal nylon brush for 6.5 cal attached to a drill.

Varget

 

[Campguy308]

Varget

Varget is notorious for carbon ring.

 

[Brux]

I have 4064 on hand. Do you have a load for 4064 and 175 SMK?

 

[Campguy308]

I don't, but the rest of the Internet does.