Case cleaning - vibratory, or ultrasonic?

garandman

Bad Advice for Free
Banned !
Full Member
Minuteman
Nov 17, 2009
2,688
384
Huntington WV
So I burnt up my first vibratory case cleaner (using walnut media) and I need to get another case cleaner.

I see these ultrasonic cleaners, and wonder how good they are.

Any opinions, either way?

Thx
 
Re: Case cleaning - vibratory, or ultrasonic?

Good idea. Actually, its not THAT much more, and it just looks like it would last longer, as any form of vibration ultimately has to shake the cleaner to bits.
 
Re: Case cleaning - vibratory, or ultrasonic?

I have done everykind of brass cleaning, SS media get brass the cleanest, I have gone back to vibration cleaning with Walnut media for precision rifle brass, and SS media for everything else, precision rifle brass needs that left over carbon inside the neck to aid in bullet release.
 
Re: Case cleaning - vibratory, or ultrasonic?

Garandman,

Get both. Clean first with ultrasonic, polish with tumbler. Harbor Freight will work, takes some experimentation to find out what works with a particular case. I don't have enough cash to get a more expensive US.

HTH,
DocB
 
Re: Case cleaning - vibratory, or ultrasonic?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DocB</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Garandman,

Get both. Clean first with ultrasonic, polish with tumbler. Harbor Freight will work, takes some experimentation to find out what works with a particular case. I don't have enough cash to get a more expensive US.

HTH,
DocB </div></div>

After spending that kinda money he might as well go with the best, SS tumbling!
 
Re: Case cleaning - vibratory, or ultrasonic?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 427Cobra</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have done everykind of brass cleaning, SS media get brass the cleanest, I have gone back to vibration cleaning with Walnut media for precision rifle brass, and SS media for everything else, precision rifle brass needs that left over carbon inside the neck to aid in bullet release. </div></div>

Okay, I know I'm gonna get flame for this but wouldn't the carbon deposits be uneven from brass to brass causing different bullet release rates and less precision? I'm looking for a brass cleaning system too for precision loads otherwise I wouldn't have bothered ya with the question.
 
Re: Case cleaning - vibratory, or ultrasonic?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: elfster1234</div><div class="ubbcode-body">just get the SS media with tumbler and be done with it... it is al you need and will ever need. </div></div>

Will do & thanks!
 
Re: Case cleaning - vibratory, or ultrasonic?



For the folks that are annealing....wouldn't carbon deposits get baked on during the annealing process? I've got annealing machine on the way, and am asking what is best prep and maximum case life.

Thanks
 
Re: Case cleaning - vibratory, or ultrasonic?

for my stainless steel cleaning method with thumler's tumbler:


*pick up some lemi-shine @ walmart for about $2.50, and put about 1 teaspoon per use. will last a longgg time. This i'll actually measure out so the lemi-shine lasts and not just dumping into hot water.

*also, i'll pick up some blue colored <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="text-decoration: underline">high concentrate</span></span> dish soap (thicker soap fluid the better) at the dollar store and will put about 3 tablespoons aprox per use... will also last a long time. this ill just put a big squirt into HOT water and don't measure.

*i'll tumble with hot water, and then rinse with cold water. I will usually fill tumler's tumbler up about 3/4 full of HOT water.

<span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">- for rifle brass, with absolutely no wait time between steps i will:</span></span>

- tumble with HOT water/lemi-shine/high concentrated soap just enough for resizing (approx 45min)

- rinse cold water / sieve media / drain water, grab a big handful of brass case mouth up and hit down neck with air hose (make sure you use eye protection just in case SS media is still in brass) and then outside of brass / primer section with airhose. Can usually grab about 20pcs of .308 brass case mouth up in hand. this step only takes seconds.

- put airhose dried brass in special designated bowl for lubing, spray lube brass, with a very small dab of imperial wax in palm of hand, and work the brass till covered with lube. speed drytime of lube up with airhose. just enough for resizing / depriming.

- size and deprime

- back into tumbler with HOT water/lemi-shine/high concentrated soap just enough for <span style="font-weight: bold">primer pockets to be 100% clean</span> (approx 1-1/2 to 2 hours). Fine line between cleaning enough for the primer pockets to be clean but NOT too long for the case mouth to get heavily ballpeaned from the SS media.

- rinse cold water / sieve media / drain water, grab a big handful of brass case mouth up and hit down neck with air hose (make sure you use eye protection just in case SS media is still in brass) and then outside of brass / primer section with airhose. Can usually grab about 20pcs of .308 brass case mouth up in hand. this step only takes seconds.

- usually brass is damn near dry enough to seat primers, but i'll usually just let the brass sit over night.

- seat primers

- drop powder

- seat bullets

- load into your rifle and kick some ass


*******************************************

- <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="text-decoration: underline">as for pistol brass</span></span>, it is crazy stupid easy

- tumble with HOT water with lemi-shine and maybe a tad bit more dish soap for about 1-1/2 to 2hours

- rinse cold water / sieve media / drain water

- put into strainer type bowl and hit it up with with airhose with eye protection.... i'll usually put something over the sink drain as i had a 9mm brass come out of strainer bowl and go down sink drain = not friggen fun! don't need to get 100% dry with airhose.

- <span style="font-weight: bold">let pistol brass sit for about 1 week</span> so primer pockets are 100% dry for auto progressive pistol reloading before you reload / store brass in zip lock bag for future reloading... as for me, i have TONS of pistol brass so i'll have dry pistol brass 24/7 for reloading if you're ahead of the game.

- you do not need to lube pistol brass, run thru your auto progressive reloader set up... for me on my hornady LNL AP press it is size / deprime die, primer seat, bell brass die, power drop, RCBS powder lock out die (MUST HAVE IMO), bullet seater/crimp die. DONE!

- put in pistol and kick some ass!


Hope this helps.






<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Rick C.</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: elfster1234</div><div class="ubbcode-body">just get the SS media with tumbler and be done with it... it is al you need and will ever need. </div></div>

Will do & thanks! </div></div>
 
Re: Case cleaning - vibratory, or ultrasonic?

+1 for the stainless steel in a thumlers tumbler. It also helps if you get a heavy duty depriming die and deprime all your brass before tumbling. gets primer pockets really clean.

This isn't the best photo but gives you an idea comparing results of new brass to walnut/vibratory to stainless steel. I don't have an ultrasonic, so have to find a comparison from others there. I think this was a 3-1/2 hr tumble with dishsoap & a 9mm case measure of Lemishine.

1i-Comparison-2_zps006f1450.jpg
 
Re: Case cleaning - vibratory, or ultrasonic?

I tumble in walnut with some Dillon/Flitz metal polish and my brass comes out pretty clean. I clean my primer pockets after every third cycle, so I don't need them clean for every shot.

Super clean brass doesn't shoot any better than pretty clean brass, last time I checked.

Chris
 
Re: Case cleaning - vibratory, or ultrasonic?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Rick C.</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 427Cobra</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have done everykind of brass cleaning, SS media get brass the cleanest, I have gone back to vibration cleaning with Walnut media for precision rifle brass, and SS media for everything else, precision rifle brass needs that left over carbon inside the neck to aid in bullet release. </div></div>

Okay, I know I'm gonna get flame for this but wouldn't the carbon deposits be uneven from brass to brass causing different bullet release rates and less precision? I'm looking for a brass cleaning system too for precision loads otherwise I wouldn't have bothered ya with the question. </div></div>

No Flaming What So Ever

I belong a shooting club in Denton Texas, NTSA(North Texas Shooters Association) we have Trap, Skeet, 5 Stand, Pistol, Rifle ranges, all the 100/200 yard BR matches are held at my club, I watched the BR boys reload there cases, clean by hand on the outside with a Krazy Klothe, 0000 Steel Wool, or any thing else to remove the burnt gun powder from the outside, necks are brushed out leaving a dark grey(carbon) residue, primer pockets brushed cleaned, resized with a custom made FL/Bump die(as near as I can tell its a Hybird that sizes the neck very little, sizes the body slightly, and bumps the shoulder .0005-.001), most throw there charges, but the really good shooters pre load charges in tiny vials, each charge is weighed on a GD-503 or better, charge and seat bullets. What I figured out is these guys shoot little bitty groups all day long with cases that never get cleaned to even close as the level of Walnut media does, let alone SS media, so I just used 0000 steel wool to clean the outside of fifty cases, brushed my necks out, brushed my pockets cleaned, I already use a highly accurate scale to dispense my charges, anneal every 3-5 firings( really when I feel like it) and I discovered my SD/ES went down, my groups shrank, and fliers all but disappeared, WOW dirty brass(or at least brass that's nowhere as clean as SS media cleaned brass) shoots better. My therory is the carbon acts as barrier between the inside of the neck and the copper jacket, no cold welding, and when fired those two aid in the release of the bullet. Cleaning cases by hand sucks, all the washing and drying of either US or SS Media sucks, fire up the Lyman vibration cleaner with Walnut media treated with NuFinish car wax is the least amount of work, cleans what needs to be cleaned, and produces shiny brass, or brass clean enough not to damage the dies, and IMHO is more accurate, as for unevenness I don't know, my runout is very low, my spreads are single digit, and after 4000 rounds my 260 still bug holes.
 
Re: Case cleaning - vibratory, or ultrasonic?

Depending on the environment I used them in, some of my cases don't get tumbled until I am ready to anneal them (3 firings).

I have discovered the same results as 427Cobra.

I also rarely clean my primer pockets more than every other firing. Most of the time I look at the pocket and if it doesn't look too bad I just put another primer in.

I know some who would cringe at my loading practices, and that is fine. Some people need a warm fuzzy feeling emanating from their ammo. I have been loading for a very long time, I no longer need that warm fuzzy feeling.
 
Re: Case cleaning - vibratory, or ultrasonic?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 427Cobra</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Rick C.</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 427Cobra</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have done everykind of brass cleaning, SS media get brass the cleanest, I have gone back to vibration cleaning with Walnut media for precision rifle brass, and SS media for everything else, precision rifle brass needs that left over carbon inside the neck to aid in bullet release. </div></div>

Okay, I know I'm gonna get flame for this but wouldn't the carbon deposits be uneven from brass to brass causing different bullet release rates and less precision? I'm looking for a brass cleaning system too for precision loads otherwise I wouldn't have bothered ya with the question. </div></div>

No Flaming What So Ever

I belong a shooting club in Denton Texas, NTSA(North Texas Shooters Association) we have Trap, Skeet, 5 Stand, Pistol, Rifle ranges, all the 100/200 yard BR matches are held at my club, I watched the BR boys reload there cases, clean by hand on the outside with a Krazy Klothe, 0000 Steel Wool, or any thing else to remove the burnt gun powder from the outside, necks are brushed out leaving a dark grey(carbon) residue, primer pockets brushed cleaned, resized with a custom made FL/Bump die(as near as I can tell its a Hybird that sizes the neck very little, sizes the body slightly, and bumps the shoulder .0005-.001), most throw there charges, but the really good shooters pre load charges in tiny vials, each charge is weighed on a GD-503 or better, charge and seat bullets. What I figured out is these guys shoot little bitty groups all day long with cases that never get cleaned to even close as the level of Walnut media does, let alone SS media, so I just used 0000 steel wool to clean the outside of fifty cases, brushed my necks out, brushed my pockets cleaned, I already use a highly accurate scale to dispense my charges, anneal every 3-5 firings( really when I feel like it) and I discovered my SD/ES went down, my groups shrank, and fliers all but disappeared, WOW dirty brass(or at least brass that's nowhere as clean as SS media cleaned brass) shoots better. My therory is the carbon acts as barrier between the inside of the neck and the copper jacket, no cold welding, and when fired those two aid in the release of the bullet. Cleaning cases by hand sucks, all the washing and drying of either US or SS Media sucks, fire up the Lyman vibration cleaner with Walnut media treated with NuFinish car wax is the least amount of work, cleans what needs to be cleaned, and produces shiny brass, or brass clean enough not to damage the dies, and IMHO is more accurate, as for unevenness I don't know, my runout is very low, my spreads are single digit, and after 4000 rounds my 260 still bug holes. </div></div>
Thanks for sharing this Cobra. You are a gentleman and a scholar and I'm gonna try your method too. All I had anyway was a SWAG that cleaner was better both inside and out cuz I've never reloaded anything but shotgun shells so far...also your gonna love this. I was at the Mecum Auction last weekend here in FL and there was an old boy there from Kentuky who had an original Shelby Cobra 428 roadster, which was by far the most expensive car there! The bid went to $650K then stalled so he took it back home with him. He told me he wanted 7 figures for it or he wouldn't sell it before crossing the block.
 
Re: Case cleaning - vibratory, or ultrasonic?

just a thought people why not do some shopping around at yard sales and pawnshops and auctions also for your thumlers tumbler i picked up both of mine for 20.00 at a garage sale added the ss media and whammo i can clean the shit out of brass now.STM is the only option for cleaning brass.
 
While I like the look of shiny brass, I clean to make the brass safe for my dies.

So I use a vibratory (Lyman) with corn cob media. It gets the brass clean, and can shine it up if you run it long enough.

Tumble for 15 minutes, use a separator (I use a small Dillon one) and load. A LOT less steps than SS.