Casted my first set today and I had an issue. I didnt get some of the molds filled all the way. The length is find and the bullet is fine in all regards except the bottom is not sharp on the edges.... its more round. Are these safe to shoot or should they just go back in the pot.
casting help
- Thread starter bigjake722003
- Start date
Re: casting help
Put them back in the pot. Check out castboolits.com They have a load of info on casting.
I would spend some time with brake cleaner and a toothbruch going over your mold. Then make sure you have a bit of tin in your lead to help it flow a bit. Also, make sure your mold is warmed up and your lead is a bit warmer. I tend to try to keep my pot at about 700, and i get nice shiney, fully filled out molds.
Put them back in the pot. Check out castboolits.com They have a load of info on casting.
I would spend some time with brake cleaner and a toothbruch going over your mold. Then make sure you have a bit of tin in your lead to help it flow a bit. Also, make sure your mold is warmed up and your lead is a bit warmer. I tend to try to keep my pot at about 700, and i get nice shiney, fully filled out molds.
Re: casting help
There are several factors that affect how well the molds fill. One is casting temperature. Depending on how much tin is in the alloy the best temp could vary 100 degrees. Another very important thing is the condition of the mold. First it must be degreased completely. There are many way to get these molds casting right. My method was to cast a couple bullets in a warm mold then spray it with triclorethane (brake cleaner might work) while it was hot then smoke the mold cavity with a wooden match. Some matches have a little wax on the end so be careful to burn this off before smoking the mold. Use 3 matches at a time. There are mold release agents that work but I've never used them. I used this method for about 10 years and hand cast thousands of rifle, pistol and muzzleloader bullets for my own use and resale. This is definitely the short version so do your homework and practice until you get it right. It took me a good while to get it figured out to where all my edges were sharp so don't get discouraged too quickly. Good luck
There are several factors that affect how well the molds fill. One is casting temperature. Depending on how much tin is in the alloy the best temp could vary 100 degrees. Another very important thing is the condition of the mold. First it must be degreased completely. There are many way to get these molds casting right. My method was to cast a couple bullets in a warm mold then spray it with triclorethane (brake cleaner might work) while it was hot then smoke the mold cavity with a wooden match. Some matches have a little wax on the end so be careful to burn this off before smoking the mold. Use 3 matches at a time. There are mold release agents that work but I've never used them. I used this method for about 10 years and hand cast thousands of rifle, pistol and muzzleloader bullets for my own use and resale. This is definitely the short version so do your homework and practice until you get it right. It took me a good while to get it figured out to where all my edges were sharp so don't get discouraged too quickly. Good luck
Re: casting help
I'll add one here. Despite all the marketing of the niceties of a bottom pour pot, if you're getting rounded edges on the base of your bullet, stop using the bottom pour method. Rather, get your ladle (like the Lyman or RCBS with the tit on it), and do the following:
Heat up the mould, making sure all lubrication is off it.
Next, with both the sprue plate and dipper sideways (coming at each other horizontally), ajoin the two.
Now, invert vertically and dwell there for several seconds.
Now, keeping the mould vertical, turn the dipper off the sprue plate by rotating it away.
Let the sprue harden on the sprue plate.
Strike with a wooden mallet and open those moulds up.
If you've STILL got a problem after following this technique, then either the sprue hole is too small, the moulds are too cold, the tin is too low (20/1 is a good start) or your pot is too cold.
HOWEVER, your first order of business is to learn how to use the dipper instead of the bottom pour pot. Reason: The dipper provides more force of fluid into the mould.
By the way, flux with beeswax or parafin.
I'll add one here. Despite all the marketing of the niceties of a bottom pour pot, if you're getting rounded edges on the base of your bullet, stop using the bottom pour method. Rather, get your ladle (like the Lyman or RCBS with the tit on it), and do the following:
Heat up the mould, making sure all lubrication is off it.
Next, with both the sprue plate and dipper sideways (coming at each other horizontally), ajoin the two.
Now, invert vertically and dwell there for several seconds.
Now, keeping the mould vertical, turn the dipper off the sprue plate by rotating it away.
Let the sprue harden on the sprue plate.
Strike with a wooden mallet and open those moulds up.
If you've STILL got a problem after following this technique, then either the sprue hole is too small, the moulds are too cold, the tin is too low (20/1 is a good start) or your pot is too cold.
HOWEVER, your first order of business is to learn how to use the dipper instead of the bottom pour pot. Reason: The dipper provides more force of fluid into the mould.
By the way, flux with beeswax or parafin.
