Anyone have a good picture of either Armor or Graphite Black applied to a rifle. I'm still going back a forth between these colors on a hunting rifle but haven't seen either in person.
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Gunsmithing Cerakote Armor Black vs. Graphite Black
- Thread starter Hosshunter
- Start date
http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...190343-lri-doing-again-fluting-bolt-knob.html
think there is a pic there.
think there is a pic there.
Thanks I found a photo of a Graphite Black one on the thread you sent. Looks like what i'm looking for. The sheen is just right. I've seen it really shiny on other pictures but I'm thinking they had the ratio wrong.
Not sure if these qualify as "good" pictures but these are both Graphite black Cerakote. Its a good color to go with on a hunting rig.
Too much sheen is my main worry, so thanks for the insight. Who is LRI? are they a local applicator ?
Not sure if these qualify as "good" pictures but these are both Graphite black Cerakote. Its a good color to go with on a hunting rig.
Tnaks for the pix! That lower 700 with the Brown Mcmillan and red pad looks classic. Very nice!
Long Range Int. Look at this thread....... http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...190343-lri-doing-again-fluting-bolt-knob.html
They are up in the Dakota's. Quick turnaround time on bolt work.
They are up in the Dakota's. Quick turnaround time on bolt work.
Go Graphite black, Armor Black is so Matte that it just looks dry or something. GO GRAPHITE AND DON'T LOOK BACK.
This, I think armor black shows scuffs and fingerprints more too. If you care about that shit...
Here's the skinny on this.
I have both colors in inventory. Depending on the hardener ratio I can make them look virtually identical. Ceracoat gives us a fairly wide spectrum when it comes to gloss level on their products. It generally ranges from 18:1 to 22:1.
If I want Graphite Black to sheen up, I lean more towards 18:1. If I want it matted out (oober flat) then go more towards 22:1.
Hardner level affects the abrasive tolerance of the product. The 18:1 is generally harder and a bit slicker than the gritty-er finish when applied at 22:1. I generally strive for a middle of the road level of 20:1. It seems to work well. If your reading this and want to try doing this stuff yourself, just know that you can go too far at either extreme.
Too much hardner makes the material brittle and prone to chipping. Too little and it won't fully bond to the substrate. Your choice of blasting media and the psi level at which you prep your parts also plays a big part in the final finish/gloss level of the product.
It's funny stuff and the only way to know/improve is to just keep at it. How we do it today vs 2-1/2 years ago when I started is a lot different. Thankfully, we've learned from our mistakes and it goes really smooth now.
I have both colors in inventory. Depending on the hardener ratio I can make them look virtually identical. Ceracoat gives us a fairly wide spectrum when it comes to gloss level on their products. It generally ranges from 18:1 to 22:1.
If I want Graphite Black to sheen up, I lean more towards 18:1. If I want it matted out (oober flat) then go more towards 22:1.
Hardner level affects the abrasive tolerance of the product. The 18:1 is generally harder and a bit slicker than the gritty-er finish when applied at 22:1. I generally strive for a middle of the road level of 20:1. It seems to work well. If your reading this and want to try doing this stuff yourself, just know that you can go too far at either extreme.
Too much hardner makes the material brittle and prone to chipping. Too little and it won't fully bond to the substrate. Your choice of blasting media and the psi level at which you prep your parts also plays a big part in the final finish/gloss level of the product.
It's funny stuff and the only way to know/improve is to just keep at it. How we do it today vs 2-1/2 years ago when I started is a lot different. Thankfully, we've learned from our mistakes and it goes really smooth now.
Thanks for the insight, Chad. Sharing your experiences. Information like that can really help out a guy not make all the rookie mistakes on his personal gun.
I know you are busy but do you provide H-Series application services for customers rifles? I have a Cooper 52 that I plan on tearing down and having coated along with the rings. Please let me know if you do and what kind of turnaround time you would be able to accommodate in the next month. Thanks for the input.
Yes we do. It'd be about 10 days give or take. Between the contract work we do and the GB's we have going on right now the Ceracoat side of the house is very busy.
So busy that I am actively looking for more staff. Actively as in: They could not start here soon enough.
SO, if there's an extremely determined individual that wants to be worked like a pound dog and has the tenacity/attention to detail/work ethic to make this side of the shop sing a song, then I am in a position to consider your skill sets. You have the potential to make as much as you put in. I'm not tight with payroll provided I get results.
I'm not a "company man" kind of guy. I firmly believe that we should all control our own destiny. What this means is you work for yourself. I'm am not your boss. I am the parent contractor providing the environment, materials, and any needed training to set you up for success. I'm not going to be hour phukked by the clock as you sit in the chitter and text your girlfriend or piddle for two hours on a job that should take 20 minutes. If you are not a self starter and/or require constant adult supervision then we are not the right mix. It'll end in failure before it ever has a chance to begin.
I don't need sheep. I want shepherds.
I don't want rock stars either. Meaning if your turned your face into a display rack for fishing lures, it won't work. My clients and I demand a professional appearance. Hula Hoops stuck in your ears don't meet this requirement. Neither do flat bills or jeans that hang to your ankles.
Big boy rules apply.
If this suits you then you have the potential to prosper and enjoy a successful career in one of most marquee shops operating in this trade.
That's the job. It's not glamorous and its a lot of hard work. My shop is fully environmentally controlled and I have some of the best tools that a dollar can buy. Were not painting into a cardboard box with a rattle can. It's a purpose built facility. Not a sweatshop. Everyone pulls their own weight and we all demand a great deal from one another. It's a team environment on all fronts because to be successful we have to depend on one another.
Serious inquiries only.
C.
So busy that I am actively looking for more staff. Actively as in: They could not start here soon enough.
SO, if there's an extremely determined individual that wants to be worked like a pound dog and has the tenacity/attention to detail/work ethic to make this side of the shop sing a song, then I am in a position to consider your skill sets. You have the potential to make as much as you put in. I'm not tight with payroll provided I get results.
I'm not a "company man" kind of guy. I firmly believe that we should all control our own destiny. What this means is you work for yourself. I'm am not your boss. I am the parent contractor providing the environment, materials, and any needed training to set you up for success. I'm not going to be hour phukked by the clock as you sit in the chitter and text your girlfriend or piddle for two hours on a job that should take 20 minutes. If you are not a self starter and/or require constant adult supervision then we are not the right mix. It'll end in failure before it ever has a chance to begin.
I don't need sheep. I want shepherds.
I don't want rock stars either. Meaning if your turned your face into a display rack for fishing lures, it won't work. My clients and I demand a professional appearance. Hula Hoops stuck in your ears don't meet this requirement. Neither do flat bills or jeans that hang to your ankles.
Big boy rules apply.
If this suits you then you have the potential to prosper and enjoy a successful career in one of most marquee shops operating in this trade.
That's the job. It's not glamorous and its a lot of hard work. My shop is fully environmentally controlled and I have some of the best tools that a dollar can buy. Were not painting into a cardboard box with a rattle can. It's a purpose built facility. Not a sweatshop. Everyone pulls their own weight and we all demand a great deal from one another. It's a team environment on all fronts because to be successful we have to depend on one another.
Serious inquiries only.
C.
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Great information Chad and if I lived anywhere near you I would be filling up the truck to come see you. That's a hell of an offer for anyone determined and interested that is in a position to come work with you.
Damn Chad . Your making me want to quit this Govi contracting job and move up there ! I really respect a guy that says what he wants in a bidness! Wiat ..... My cowboy hat has a flat rim. Does that count me out ?
Greg
Greg
Each of the Cerakote H-Series colors has gloss factor range, which is repesented by a "Gloss Units" metric. The mix ratios range from 12:1 to 24:1 and the mix determines the gloss units within the range for that color. Graphite Black has a Gloss Unit (GU) range of 1.7 to 11.8 with 12:1 =11.8 GU, 18:1 = 6.8 GU and 24:1 = 1.7 GU. So, Graphite Black can gor from a high gloss finish to a very flat/matte finish. Armor Black has a much more limited GU range, which runs from 12:1 = 2.0 GU, 18:1 = 1.0 GU and 24:1 = -1 GU. As a reference point, other colors such as Midnight Blue have a GU of 54 @ 18:1 and are high gloss no matter how you mix and Armor Black is flat no matter how you mix, but you can mix Graphite Black to be just about as matte as Armor Black.
Graphite Black is the most versitle of the two blacks and I agree with Chad that 20:1 on the Graphite Black is the sweet spot where you get the good properties of a satin finish, but its just matte enough to not be shinny.
Graphite Black is the most versitle of the two blacks and I agree with Chad that 20:1 on the Graphite Black is the sweet spot where you get the good properties of a satin finish, but its just matte enough to not be shinny.
Is the graphite black just a color, or is it slick, like graphite? If you put it on a bolt will it run smoother with less lubricant to attract dust?
I'm not sure about the lubricating properties of Standard H Cerakote but they do offer Micro Slick as a Dry Film Lube. I'm an A&P and we use various types of dry film lubes (mainly on engine blade roots) and the stuff is great. It doesnt get slung out from the centrifugal action.
Graphite Black is just a color and contains no graphite. Cerakote H-Series does have a lower friction co-efficient, 80% less than stainless against stainless, but the main issue in coating things like bolts, barrels and bushings, AR BCG's,etc is that Cerakote H-Series has a nominal surface thickness of 1mil (.001) per surface and on round surfaces like on a 1911 barrel you would pick up 2mil and on the inside of the bushing or slide you would pick up another 2mil, so the main issue is tollerances.
MicroSlick is a ceramic dry-film lubricant and is a metal treatment vs. a finish and is designed to soak into and penetrate the metal structure and generally has a nominal surface thickness of only .25mil to .50mil. it is intened to burnish (wear) in to the metal and on applications such as automotive pistons they pre-burnish the MicroSlick into the pistons by tumbling them with ball bearings. MicroSlick has greater lubricity and a much greater friction co-efficient reduction than H-series, but is not designed or intended as a finish for exterior applictions where asthetics is paramount.
I found when looking online at pictures of colors for my AR I built, they all looked different. best way to do it is to go to the cerakote website and you can get 5 samples for free on a 1"x1" piece of metal
Looks good thanks for posting them. After all the feed back and photos, I'm going with Graphite Black too.
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