Gunsmithing cerakote

[LME]

I just finished my first cerakote application on one Glock/Caspian slide, after sand blasting and Butyl acetate cleaning.

My question is: The correct way is to apply light or a little heavy , coming to moisten lightly?

I noticed that lighter application given a more matte finish, and the little heavy, the finish is slightly glossy.

The cerakote is the air dry version.

The glock slide is to learn, next step is a custom rifle.


Whats your experience, someone could share?

Thanks

 

[ARP]

Re: cerakote

IMO, For slides on pistols one should always use the heat cured version.

Spray till it wets and then stop. If you spray real light then what you have is a rougher surface where the little blobs of paint aren't smoothed out and it doesn't reflect light as well due to the difraction.

 

[ugsly]

Re: cerakote

When I spray, I try to do it in one pass. I want it to look wet but not so wet it runs. Start with the hardest places to get first. Good lighting is a must in my opinion, it really help to see.

Just my .02
Kc

 

[LME]

Re: cerakote

Guys
I read somewhere that the resistence from air dry and oven cure version is the same, just that the air dry version takes longer to reach maximum strength. But perhaps I misundertood.
Anyway, thank you for your feedback guys. The trick about be wet but not enough to runs really help me.
Hope my next work be better.

 

[TORKAR]

Re: cerakote

Well lets see how she looks...

 

[jforbush]

Re: cerakote

Air Cure and Heat cure are for sure not the same.....air cure does not wear as well and is not as resistant to chemicals and abrasion then heat cure. Air cure is good for items that can't he heat cured or items like suppressor that get very, very hot.

 

[ilish0704]

Re: cerakote

Spray till it wets and then stop. If you spray real light then what you have is a rougher surface where the little blobs of paint aren't smoothed out and it doesn't reflect light as well due to the difraction.

 

[x ring accuracy]

Re: cerakote

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: LME</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Guys
I read somewhere that the resistence from air dry and oven cure version is the same, just that the air dry version takes longer to reach maximum strength. But perhaps I misundertood.
Anyway, thank you for your feedback guys. The trick about be wet but not enough to runs really help me.
Hope my next work be better. </div></div>
Time is your friend. The C version isn't supposed to be as durable, but with full cure time, seems as if it is. YMMV

 

[jglenn]

Re: cerakote

you can also heat cure the air dry stuff ...the guys at NIC gave me that one a fews years back.

 

[Mark Housel]

Re: cerakote

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jimmyG</div><div class="ubbcode-body">you can also heat cure the air dry stuff ...the guys at NIC gave me that one a fews years back.

</div></div>
I figured this out on my own. I asked them about it way back and was told that curing air dry would dry it but not cure it?

C-Series + 2 hours @ 225F == MEK/Acetone proof
Cured enough for me to ship things for sure.

 

[Nocalphoenix]

Re: cerakote

I was also advised that heating the air cure just flashes everything off and gets to maximum hardness sooner but still not as hard as the heat cure.

In regards to chemical resistance it seems that the heat helps quite a bit.

 

[shoepop]

Re: cerakote

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ilish0704</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Spray till it wets and then stop. If you spray real light then what you have is a rougher surface where the little blobs of paint aren't smoothed out and it doesn't reflect light as well due to the difraction.

</div></div>

Correct you are.

 

[Edds]

Re: cerakote

When you guys are using Cerakote on a bolt action rifle, are you leaving the inside of the receiver uncoated?

 

[hero's machine]

Re: cerakote

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Edds</div><div class="ubbcode-body">When you guys are using Cerakote on a bolt action rifle, are you leaving the inside of the receiver uncoated? </div></div>

I coat everything but the lug abuttments and threads......unless its a custom or bushed bolt, most manufacturers leave enough room to drive a truck between the bolt and receiver.

 

[Edds]

Re: cerakote

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: hero's machine</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Edds</div><div class="ubbcode-body">When you guys are using Cerakote on a bolt action rifle, are you leaving the inside of the receiver uncoated? </div></div>

I coat everything but the lug abuttments and threads......unless its a custom or bushed bolt, most manufacturers leave enough room to drive a truck between the bolt and receiver. </div></div>
I don't see how you can spray the inside of a bolt action receiver and keep the coverage at a thin uniform thickness. Is there a way to apply the stuff other than spraying?

 

[smschulz]

Re: cerakote

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: LME</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Guys
I read somewhere that the resistence from air dry and oven cure version is the same, just that the air dry version takes longer to reach maximum strength. But perhaps I misundertood.
Anyway, thank you for your feedback guys. The trick about be wet but not enough to runs really help me.
Hope my next work be better. </div></div>

You can control the sheen better with heat cure.
You mix different proportions of hardener to get different level of sheen.
If you want a flatter finish this is the only thing to use, IMO.
A by product of heat is it is more durable and ready for use much sooner.
Good Luck.

 

[Jeremybj]

Re: cerakote

In my experience it is better to spray too heavy than too light, I guess I went 2 passes fairly heavy.

The first time I did it, I sprayed too light and it looked like crap. It would have random matte spots all over - it was really discouraging.

Second time around I layed it on pretty heavy and it came out PERFECT. I was impressed with myself.....

 

[Redcreek1]

Re: cerakote

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: LME</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Guys
I read somewhere that the resistence from air dry and oven cure version is the same, just that the air dry version takes longer to reach maximum strength. But perhaps I misundertood.
Anyway, thank you for your feedback guys. The trick about be wet but not enough to runs really help me.
Hope my next work be better. </div></div>

H-Series, oven cure is more durable than the C-Series. All of the published durability tests are for the H-Series product. C-Series is part of the “high-temp” ceramic coating line and you sacrifice some of the durability properties to get the temperature resistance (approx 1700+ degrees vs. 500+ degrees) To get the high-temp properties C-Series doesn’t use hardeners, which is the component which can’t take the temps above 500 to 600 degrees. And, since the C-Series is ambient cure it’s the obvious choice for items which shouldn’t be oven cured, like optics, lights, some rifle stocks etc.

While C-Series will cure quicker at higher room temperatures, such as 75, 80, 90 degrees, etc. vs. a cold room 40, 50, etc., you SHOULD NOT bake or try to oven cure C-Series, which has toxic components that can be released during a heat cure process and you risk ruining the finish.

The general rule is to always use H-Series except where you cant.