Gunsmithing Cerakoting Upper/Lower AR >> Q's ??

smschulz

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Nov 7, 2009
913
3
69
Houston, Texas USA
OK going to Cerakote (heat) a AR 15 stripped upper/lower.
Question is how much do you media blast>
I am planning to just 'rough up' and not remove all the anodizing.
I wasn't going to completely coat every nook and cranny of the inside either unless it is a good idea ~ I didn't want to add any dimension to any threaded parts.
Would a coat of K-Phos after the media blast (AO 125)and before the Cerakote hurt or help?
I have done several SS barrels and other various parts with success but first attempt on an Alum Upper/lower.
 
Re: Cerakoting Upper/Lower AR >> Q's ??

I've had good luck with soaking them in acetone, preheating them to cook it off, then cerakote them. I didnt want to remove the anodizing. Ive done four or five, all with good results. The stainless barrels, I clean, plug and tape, sandblast at 90 psi then cerakote.
 
Re: Cerakoting Upper/Lower AR >> Q's ??

The couple complete AR's I've done I've lightly blasted them with AO 120 at around 60PSI. Any lower and my blast cabinet has problems picking up the media. Any more and it tends to take the anodizing off quickly. It also depends on the anodizing. Some have very thick anodized finish that seems very durable. Others it seems almost like magic marker and will come off from spraying water on them.

Mike
 
Re: Cerakoting Upper/Lower AR >> Q's ??

I have painted probably 20-25 lowers/uppers and have never blasted them. I soak them in acetone for about 25 minutes and then throw em in the oven for another 30, let em cool and spray em. the only threaded part on the lower is the grip screw. I just use the grip screw and hang the lower by that. Never had any problems.
 
Re: Cerakoting Upper/Lower AR >> Q's ??

Deadly0311 is right, you can blast them but I never have and honestly wouldn't, if your worried about it, you can get a fine grit sand paper and rough it up slightly and then clean that and begin your painting.
 
Re: Cerakoting Upper/Lower AR >> Q's ??

There is no reason to blast them. It is actually counter productive to do so. They are anodized and if you were to look at anodizing under a microscope you would see that it looks like a forest of cedar trees. That makes a very good surface for paint to adhere to.
 
Re: Cerakoting Upper/Lower AR >> Q's ??

I suppose you can do it any way you want, but there is a "proper" way and there are substantive reasons for those methods.

The proper process is:

Degrease: Brake Parts cleaner is best for this purpose, but other similar cleaners are fine too.
Blast: It is quite necessary to blast the parts with 120grit AO to achieve the maximum (5h) adhesion of the Cerakote to the substrate. Without blasting you will not get the same durability as you on a properly prepped part. (Adhesion = Scratch resistance) 120 AO has been determined by NIC to be the best media size based on the properties of Cerakote as far as film thickness, ceramic micro-structure, etc. to provide the best adhesion and surface coverage and finish. You do not need to remove the anodizing but the prep should be uniform and consistent across the part and this is sometimes best achieved by removing the anodizing.
Blow off the part: With clean dry air
Pre-Bake: Does several functions. One is to get any remaining oil or grease out of the parts, but also serves to “off gas” certain metals such as aluminum, titanium and forged steels, etc.
Acetone Wash: If any grease or oil spots manifested
Blow off the part: With clean dry air
Coat/Spray: Apply the Cerakote
Bake: Time and Temp depends on part, color, etc., but 200 degrees for two hours would be good for an AR lower.
 
Re: Cerakoting Upper/Lower AR >> Q's ??

We have talked with NIC Industries about this very subject. They said just to rough up the anodize in the blast booth and then prep the metal as though we just totally blasted it. Clean, prebake, acetone, spray, and bake. We have had great luck with the method and have done 50+ ARs this way with no issues.

IDHunt