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I have the oculus and obsidian 45 and have shot it on 9 and 45. Also have an obsidian 9 in jail. I have fired a 45 through a 9mm end cap and had a new one to my door in a week. Can’t say for the other one you are looking at but rugged stuff is top notch as well as their customer service in my opinion.
I have a surge and radiant in jail too so I am obviously a fan of their stuff.
View attachment 7590223
omg who has resonater r2 in stock??
omg who has resonater r2 in stock??
My opinion. Two different tools for two different purposes.Which has less poi shift?
Originally Posted By paco ramirez:
To clarify some things for everyone, the Kraken and MOD 9 in both fullsize and SK size were designed to conform to SOF requirements/needs/wants for a part of the Ministry of Defence. That's where the MoD in the MOD 9 name comes from. They're purpose built for being the best at doing what the original user needed them to do in their intended applications. Same goes for most everything we make besides the Nautilus 45 and rimfire stuff, some features of which were derived from those other projects for the civilian market. The MOD 9 has a stainless steel blast baffle, and anodized 7075 T6 aluminum is used on the forward baffles for better balance on a handgun as you mentioned, and also for increased sound performance. By using anodized aluminum in the front end we're able to leave additional material on the baffle which increases sound reduction without increasing weight. If we were to make those baffles out of stainless steel and left all of that material on them to maintain the sound performance then it'd be way too heavy for it's intended use and balance would be off. If we made those baffles out of stainless steel and thinned them out and removed features to save some weight then we'd lose sound reduction. Everything is a trade off, even materials, and in the case of the MOD 9 when compared to a 100% stainless baffle stack all you lose is three extra cleaning methods on the forward baffles and get less full auto capability. And if you don't own a machine gun then at that point you're just losing three cleaning methods. Many people don't want to use the dip either since it can be dangerous, so that leaves you with ultrasonic and pin tumbling as the only thing you're losing.
If you don't want to use a soda blaster, then before using the silencer you can also coat the baffles in Bore Butter or welding anti spatter or a similar viscous nontoxic product and it'll make cleaning easier and a lot of the fouling will wipe off. All you have to do is knock off the chunks anyway, they don't need to be and shouldn't be perfectly clean. People often clean them too much and/or at intervals that are unnecessarily frequent. The anodized 7075 T6 aluminum used in the forward baffles is more than durable enough for multiple lifetimes. There's nothing wrong with your bore apertures and it's completely normal. Durability is not an issue at all.
Different materials have different uses, and since the MOD 9s weren't made for extensive full auto use there's zero reason to use stainless steel in them where it isn't necessary for their intended applications. While anodized 7075 T6 aluminum forward baffles aren't ideal for every single application (extended machine gun use) they're certainly ideal for most. The materials are chosen and used where they're used for very good reasons. So then a person just has to figure out whether they really care about having two extra cleaning methods or not, but people need to be realistic with themselves about whether having two extra cleaning methods is really worth losing sound reduction, better balance, and lighter weight. Some care, some don't. Some people want modularity, but it's also important to keep in mind that most people leave the silencer in one configuration or another and then leave it on a host and don't mess with the length change feature ever again, especially once the person starts buying more silencers. That doesn't apply to everyone, but it applies to most people. The original user didn't want a modular length feature, so MOD 9s aren't modular.
Long story short, the MOD 9, the materials used, and where the materials are used are more than adequate for most everyone and their uses, with exception being those people that really need/want the two extra cleaning methods while understanding the trade off, people that want a silencer for extensive machine gun use, or people that want and will use a modular feature. In the case of the Obsidian you can remove the front cap with the piston and it's compatible with Silencerco pistons, but that's not something most people will want to do long term anyway since the Silencerco pistons all have Osprey orientation slots which leak gas back at the shooter because of the imperfect O-Ring seal.
Paraphrasing @ikickhippies, after decades of aluminum silencers the only thing that's wrong with them is the internet.
Originally Posted By paco ramirez:
The CGS Three Lug Mount is a unique design from others in the industry for a few reasons. The lug seating surface that the male lugs of the three lug adapter shoulder on are machined in a way that makes them perfectly perpendicular to the bore line. Normally three lug mounts are machined in those areas using an endmill and on occasion during machining that end mill can slip into or out of it's collet, meaning that one or two of the three lug seating surfaces will be on a different plane which causes a lack of perpendicularity which can cause a baffle or endcap strike. Our three lug mount eliminates the potential for machining errors which would lead to baffle or endcap strikes. It's also coated with S-Line which is the same thing we internally coat our rifle silencers with. It's super slick and a lot of the fouling wipes right off because it can't stick well in the first place. It also has a tight fit within the inner piston cage so that fouling won't be able to accumulate as much so when you want to go back and use it as a piston set up on a handgun the spokes won't have as much trouble getting through caked up fouling to get into battery with the spoke lock up area. You can see this as the mid band on the exterior of the three lug mount housing, and the design releases the gas from firing a round a bit further forward than some other designs. This is in contrast to other silencer three lug mounts which use just a piston and a spring with a rear cap that leaves a lot of open area where fouling can get caked on, particularly where the piston locks up and where it travels. Ours is a three piece design so that you can disassemble it with the same tool you'd use to disassemble the silencers front cap, allowing the end user to easily clean the system and replace O-rings when needed. On the exterior surface you have a 1" hex feature so you can easily install and tighten it to your silencer using a 1" wrench. The three lug whole design is made of nitrided stainless steel so it is very strong and has no issues with abuse.
The CGS Fixed Barrel Spacer can be used on fixed barrel hosts where you don't want to use a three lug mount, one such case may be when you want to rest the silencer on a surface during shooting for whatever reason, or if you want a lighter set up. It just replaces the spring in the assembly and when you screw the rear cap back on you'll notice the rear cap sticks out slightly more than it does when the spring is installed, this is to let the user know that the fixed barrel spacer is installed instead of the spring. The fixed spacer has six vent slots and twelve spokes engagements which means those slots can sit over the vents in the piston or they can cover them up. This may help with sound of first round pop on some host and ammo configurations, it's up to the user to experiment with it and see which they prefer for their set up. It's made of stainless steel instead of aluminum because you'll occasionally see some aluminum ones from other manufacturers which start to mushroom from the force of firing, our stainless steel spacer eliminates that issue. It's important to note that some manufacturers will offer "direct thread adapters" instead of, or in addition to their fixed barrel spacers. As an example of why you should always use fixed barrel spacers in combination with pistons instead of using direct thread adapters, note that a direct thread adapter doesn't engage with anything in the silencer and is just a simply shouldering on the silencer, while a piston and fixed barrel spacer combined engage inside the silencer where the spokes lock in rotationally. This means that when you use a direct thread adapter when you go to remove the silencer from the host firearm a lot of the time the direct thread adapter will stay on the barrel while coming unscrewed from the silencer, which is bad especially if your silencer was installed under a rail and now your only way to get that direct thread adapter off the barrel would then be to remove the rail so you can get at the stuck direct thread adapter. Where the piston paired with the fixed barrel spacer shines is that regardless of which direction you turn the silencer, the piston assembly is rotationally locked in place so the silencer will always come of the barrel as one complete unit without leaving anything behind.
Thanks for all that info, clarifies some things I said that may have been unclear or off about.Here's a short write up on the MOD 9 I wrote a while back:
and
ETA - Just noticed you're the same guy from r/nfa so nothing new here that I haven't already given you.
I design everything CGS makes.Thanks for all that info, clarifies some things I said that may have been unclear or off about.
You work for CGS?
Thats awesome brother. That hyperion design is absolutely genious.I design everything CGS makes.
It was four times longer before.Short?![]()
If you're going to be shooting a lot, then I suppose teflon tape might be a quick cheap replaceable fix. I like the Cam-Lok system, but haven't bought it for any of mine. I have thought about it though, as it would be much easier than swapping pistons around all the time between different pistols.Can anyone offer up some advice to a noob in the pistol can world? Just wondering if direct thread is the way to go or if I should look into the ez lok for my obsidian 45. It should be out of jail soon and I hear a lot of people talking about the can walking off, or using teflon tape. And most recently the GA ez lok. But seems like more money and more stuff to put on the pistol....adpaters mainly.