Changing the Extraction Angle

[map_it]

So the gun is a custom built GAP did for me a couple of years ago.
Gun Specs:
Stiller TAC 30 Action
Left handed Action
Typical tactical rifle build....
The gun shoots lights out but the extraction has always been an issue

So I originally had a Leupold Mark 4 Scope and the problem was worst then. I know the issue is the spent brass is hitting the parralex on the Mark 4.
About a year ago I replaced it with a USO SN-3 and got the windage knob on the left and the illumination on the right as I carry the gun with a sling on the right side flush cups in the field.

So the brass 8 out of 10 times is hitting the bottom of the scope housing or the left side windage knob. Now the issue is not the finish or dings on the scope but the brass never leaves the chamber turning my gun into a single shot.

I've moved the scope up and down the rail and it really does not matter the problem still persists.
I also replaced the extractor (The Stiller has the M-16 type of extractor) and spring but that did not fix the problem either.
Also the bolt is clean and free of any brass shavings and debris.

So my next option was to go to taller rings but I really do not want to do that as I really want the scope as low as possible. Right now I have it in Seekins Low or 0.82 from the rail.

So to all of you professionals what can I do to make the spent brass eject at 9:00 rather than 11:00 as it is doing right now.

I really do not think this is an issue with the actual build as GAP assembled everything for me and I could not be happier.

I just wonder what can be done to at least get the brass out of the gun.....

Any comments would be much appreciated.

 

[buks]

I think this problem was unacceptable from the start.

"8 out of 10 times"....."turning my gun into a single shot"

The rifle is not reliable and it is not how a bolt action is supposed to work, even with scope mounted.

I would discuss the problem with GAP. And send the rifle back to them, with scope mounted, and have them fix the problem.
GAP should have the knowledge and skill to fix this problem.

 

[alfson]

Without seeing a picture of the boltface it is impossible to tell for sure but it sounds like the bolt face is timed wrong with regard to the ejector and extractor. The other possible issue could be that the bottom edge of the ejection port is to high bouncing the empty cartridge upwards. Again without pictures and measurements no way to tell for sure.

Smart ass comment follows: If you had shot it as much as you should have, you would have sent it back in a couple of weeks, not a couple of years.

 

[map_it]

I really do not know what to take a photo of,,???

When I place a previously shot round in the chamber, dry fire it, and slowly bring the bolt back right before the brass ejects it rolls up on the inside of the action say .25 inch or so and then the brass gets driven into the bottom side of the windage knob and the spent brass bounces back into the chamber.

I guess the smart thing into let GAP look at it but I was hoping shorting an extractor or ejector spring might solve the issue.
But atlas I'm not a machinist so I would not even know where to begin to take measurements or photos....

 

[ShtrRdy]

I have a rifle I had built on a Stiller TAC 30 action and have recently noticed what you're talking about. In my case, the rifle works as desired. It's just that the brass has dinging up the windage knob.

I'd be interested how to correct this problem. I was thinking of contacting Stiller directly since I bought the action to start with.

 

[map_it]

I plan to call Stiiler on Tuesday to see what they say. I'll PM you with what they say...

 

[PCR]

map, the m16 extractor claw can be modified to change the angle of ejection enough to allow the spent case to exit.

 

[ShtrRdy]

map, the m16 extractor claw can be modified to change the angle of ejection enough to allow the spent case to exit.

Can you explain the modification which will do this? - Todd

 

[PCR]

Dull the bite on the high corner of the claw. The ejector will still angle the brass up but if done right, the lower, sharp edge of the extractor claw will bite and help you achieve a lower ejection angle.

 

[map_it]

PCR thanks for the explanation...

 

[mobius38]

PCR,
I am having this same exact issue. Is there a way that you can give a step buy step on how to fix this issue?

 

[bohem]

PCR nailed it, with the M16 and Sako type extractors you can change the ejection angle with about 5 minutes of time and some swiss files. The corners of the extractor claw are square or pretty close to it (eventually everything wears). So, to lower the ejection angle you need the top corner to engage for a shorter length of time during the ejection stroke on the bolt. You just carefully remove a tiny bit of material to round out the corner that touches the brass.

Do a little at a time, checking it every couple of strokes with the file. For a first-timer it might take a whole half-hour, but after that it's easy as pie.

 

[mobius38]

Which corner? Top or bottom? Pics if possible.

 

[bohem]

Which corner? Top or bottom? Pics if possible.

TOP CORNER, see my post and PCR's post and read in detail:

angle you need the top corner to engage for a shorter length

 

[Deleted member 10043]

I'm too visual. Looking at the image what is considered the top corner?

 

[Red_SC]

 

[Deleted member 10043]

Thank you. Now it is the flat corner edge that contacts the brass that needs a little filing? Right where you put that excellent arrow?

 

[Red_SC]

Right, the corner of the hook that pulls it out. Look at how it works with a piece of brass, it should be fairly self explanatory.

 

[Deleted member 10043]

Thanks again.

 

[tylerw02]

I was running a Stiller Tac 30 at a match and was having the same issue with the rounds bumping my Bender. George Gardner happened to be RO'ing the stage and saw that my "tactical" rifle was turned into a single shot. What he suggested to me was to pull the extractor, file a 45 degree angle in it at the top corner, make sure it was smoothed over and would grab the rim. I did that and it started working great, ejection angle changed enough to clear and the gun ran like a clock after that. That is a whole lot easier than sending it back to GAP or Stiller for work when they would do the same thing.

 

[Deleted member 10043]

Seems to have done the job. I was skeptical considering the case is like 2.855" long. Just knocked of the tip of that corner with a thin taper file. Even taking out the extractor was easy enough. I notice a smoother ejection if I just let the bolt do the work. There is no need to slam that bolt back. Just pull it back at a certain speed and it will give nice ejection without hitting the windage knob. Thank you out to Tyler and Jered Joplin as well.