I am considering switching my 300 WM to a chassis from a McMillian stock. I know nothing about a chassis system in terms of what is excellent, good or not worth having. Can some of you that run a chassis give me a run down on them and what I should look for? Expense will play a role to some extent, but not much. My barrel an an AMU/MTU contour if that is a concern. Thanks in advance for the direction.
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Chassis for Remington 700
- Thread starter EOD350
- Start date
what is "excellent, good or not worth having" depends on how you intend to use it. for example, if you're going to mostly do belly shooting, having a tool-less adjustable stock might not be worth having but if you're doing a lot of position shooting it might be. or, if you're humping that stick over hell and gone, weight sucks and some chassis are heavy.
i did this thread a while back when i was looking. it might help you, tho slightly out of date (no AIAX, for example): http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...les/129470-new-consolidated-chassis-list.html
i did this thread a while back when i was looking. it might help you, tho slightly out of date (no AIAX, for example): http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...les/129470-new-consolidated-chassis-list.html
As a left handed shooter factory stocks do not work for me. After reading about some of the different stock options, I went with the McRee chassis. It does add weight which in my case is plus since it helps with recoil. I too use an MTU barrel profile, with the McRee inletting is not needed. Your receiver drops into the chassis, torque the 2 captive bolts with the supplied allen and you are ready. I've swapped receivers, with no shift in the point of impact. I got an AI AE at Christmas time and their chassis system is very nice also, but cost about 40 percent more. The one issue I see with the composite stocks, is they need the aluminum bedding blocks plus you have the added expense of inletting.
Not with the Manners Mini Chassis. Drop in and bolt and go like any chassis but with a more traditional stock. My biggest problems with most all chassis is AR pistol grips and thumbholes. Also I don't like the feel of the metal. That's why I asked the OP why he wants to go from the stock he has to a chassis.
^^^^^^ What he asked. Unless you have issues with fit, what you already have is second to none.
A couple other plus on the chassis is being able to adjust comb height, the LOP. Some systems don't require any tools to make the adjustments. Others all it take is a simple allen wrench to make any adjustments. Having a folding stock makes it easier to clean along with bolt removal. Most use AI mag and don't require additional fitting that is often required on composite stock.
Which one of these chasis systems allows for the greatest lop? I find myself wanting more with my aics and a spacer kit. I cant find bolts long enough to accomodate more spacers
Robo1 & coach4christ, I have asked myself the same question "why" as the rifle is a hammer now. I guess I am like others on here and other places, I just can't leave well enuff alone! I am not 100% sold on the chassis system. Thanks for your responses.
Spend the money on ammo and shoot.
When shooting the Mammoth Challenge, I got the hots for a chassis for my FN SPR 6.5CR that currently sits in a McMillan A4 stock, which is pillar bedded with a CDI bottom metal. I guess it was because I saw all the cool chassis rifles. After some investigation and reflection, I came to the conclusion that there was absolutely no reason, especially since I like the traditional stock! So instead I took off the crappy adjustable cheek rest, put on a Triad pad and am adding a rail adapter at 6:00 to replace my Harris with an Atlas bipod.
There are two primary reasons I would consider a chassis: 1) If I had a barreled action ready to rock and wanted a quick bolt-in solution, and/or 2) if I wanted to shorten the whole package to hump in a Eberlestock pack.
There are two primary reasons I would consider a chassis: 1) If I had a barreled action ready to rock and wanted a quick bolt-in solution, and/or 2) if I wanted to shorten the whole package to hump in a Eberlestock pack.
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