Check me before I wreck me please **UPDATE**

[HKDOG1]

**UPDATE**

Ok, sorry for taking so long, got too busy...

So I have reviewed all the advice and below is my new, updated list. Some of you will be happy to see I will go with a beam scale

Forster Co-Ax
Forster Ultra 2-Die Set 308 Winchester
RCBS Uniflow Powder Measure
RCBS Model 1010 Magnetic Powder Scale
RCBS Powder Trickler
Satern Powder Funnel 30 Caliber
Forster Original Case Trimmer
RCBS Trim Mate Case Prep Center
RCBS Trim Mate Case Prep Center Primer Pocket Uniformer Large Rifle
Sinclair Gen II FlashHole Tool
Sinclair Comparator/Bump Gage
Sinclair Comparator Insert, 30 cal
Lyman Case Length Headspace Gage 308 Winchester
Sierra "5th Edition Rifle and Pistol Manual of Reloading Data" Reloading Manual
Lyman 49th manual
Imperial Case Sizing Wax
Sinclair MIC-6 6in Dial Caliper
loading block or two
cartridge case or two
Hornady Impact Bullet Puller

Still haven't decided on the brass cleaning, I'm leaning towards a tumbler w/ stainless steel media.

Any thoughts on the new list?




----------------------


I am going to start reloading, first for my .308win 700p with a goal of accuracy. The load will be a FGMM HPBT 175gn clone to start. Below is a list of a few of the major items I have selected to purchase. Please give me your opinions, am I getting the right stuff? Anything I should change out? Missing?


Redding Big Boss II Single Stage Reloading Press
Forster Ultra 2-Die Set 308 Winchester
RCBS ChargeMaster 1500 Powder Scale and Dispenser Combo
RCBS Hand Priming Tool
Forster Original Case Trimmer
Redding Shellholder #1
RCBS Trim Mate Case Prep Center
RCBS Flash Hole Deburring Tool Case Pilot Stop 30 Caliber
RCBS Trim Mate Case Prep Center Primer Pocket Uniformer Large Rifle
Lyman Case Length Headspace Gage 308 Winchester
Tubb BMU Ballistic Meplat Uniformer 308 Caliber
Hornady Lock-N-Load Bullet Comparator Body
Hornady Lock-N-Load Bullet Comparator Insert 308 Diameter
Sierra "5th Edition Rifle and Pistol Manual of Reloading Data" Reloading Manual
Hornady Lock-N-Load Sonic Cleaner Ultrasonic Case Cleaner
or
Tumbler w/ stainless steel media
Imperial Case Sizing Wax

 

[Ranger70]

Re: Check me before I wreck me please

Use the Tumbler w/ stainless steel media, you will not look back.

 

[bohem]

Re: Check me before I wreck me please

Skip the sonic cleaner, I'd trade the Redding Press for a Forster Co-Ax if you can afford it.

Get a rock polishing tumbler and get some SS media. You will not regret it, the stuff is fantastic.

Otherwise, you're going to be well situated for loading ammo.

 

[Greg Langelius *]

Re: Check me before I wreck me please

Without making comment about specific items, I suspect there is a tendency to buy the best first going on here.

Can't fault that. I do, however, suggest that items of a more generic nature may well be more than sufficiently adequate for much/most of your first few years' labors. The quality of the product is at least as much a result of care and technique as it is of the quality of the tools involved

I would prefer to be doing my learning and mistake making on implements of a lesser value, and save the greater expenditures for when my skills and insights permit less havoc and more expertise with the better gear.

First we walk..., then we run...

Greg

 

[HKDOG1]

Re: Check me before I wreck me please

Thanks for the replies guys..

Greg, I hear you. I just cant stand buying things twice, buy once cry once I guess. I try and save my pennies and buy quality the first time around if you know what I mean. Thanks for the advice though, I do appreciate it.

 

[427Cobra]

Re: Check me before I wreck me please

I would suggest you not buy these items
RCBS Flash Hole Deburring Tool Case Pilot Stop 30 Caliber
Lyman Case Length Headspace Gage 308 Winchester
Tubb BMU Ballistic Meplat Uniformer 308 Caliber
Sierra "5th Edition Rifle and Pistol Manual of Reloading Data" Reloading Manual


And buy these items instead
http://www.sinclairintl.com/.aspx/pid=34127/Product/Gen_II_Universal_FlashHole_Deburring_Tool
The stop is right above the cutter, it is impossible to cut too deep or not enough

http://www.sinclairintl.com/.aspx/pid=32794/Product/Hornady_Lock_N_Load_Comparator_Insert
You already have listed the Hornady LNL body, with the correct insert it becomes a headspace gauge

Anything Meplat is an advanced reloading item and is not required at all to make sub 1/2moa ammo

I only recommend the Lyman reloading manual, they only sell reloading gear, everybody else sells components
http://www.sinclairintl.com/.aspx/pid=35372/Product/Lyman_49th_Edition_Reloading_Handbook
This book is a must have IMHO
http://www.sinclairintl.com/.aspx/pid=35486/Product/Handloading_for_Competition___Zediker

As for your press, I always suggest the Forster Co-Ax, simply put it has more mechanical advantage than almost anyother press, including the Big Boss, the dies are set and forget and you can go from die to die in 2 seconds, no shell holders are required, the dies float and the shells float so straight ammo is the norm, superior spent primer retention, no tubes no primers ejecting out the side of the ram, they simply fall down into a self contianed jar, and you can prime your brass with it, people who recommend another press have not used a Co-Ax or have not used one for any length of time, its an out of the box design that simply does almost everything better, its only downfall is IMHO the handle ergomonics, I say that because where I have mine mounted is a little PIA to use, don't mount it close to a wall and you'll be GTG.

 

[fw707]

Re: Check me before I wreck me please

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Macht Schnell!</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I am going to start reloading, first for my .308win 700p with a goal of accuracy. The load will be a FGMM HPBT 175gn clone to start. Below is a list of a few of the major items I have selected to purchase. Please give me your opinions, am I getting the right stuff? Anything I should change out? Missing?


Redding Big Boss II Single Stage Reloading Press <span style="color: #FF0000">Forster Co-ax</span>
Forster Ultra 2-Die Set 308 Winchester <span style="color: #FF0000">+1 on Forster dies</span>
RCBS ChargeMaster 1500 Powder Scale and Dispenser Combo
RCBS Hand Priming Tool <span style="color: #FF0000"> Co-ax press has a primer seater</span>
Forster Original Case Trimmer
Redding Shellholder #1 <span style="color: #FF0000">Not needed with the Co-ax press</span>
RCBS Trim Mate Case Prep Center
RCBS Flash Hole Deburring Tool Case Pilot Stop 30 Caliber <span style="color: #FF0000">Get the Sinclair 427 mentioned</span>
RCBS Trim Mate Case Prep Center Primer Pocket Uniformer Large Rifle
Lyman Case Length Headspace Gage 308 Winchester <span style="color: #FF0000">Sinclair version</span>
Tubb BMU Ballistic Meplat Uniformer 308 Caliber
Hornady Lock-N-Load Bullet Comparator Body <span style="color: #FF0000">Sinclair version</span>
Hornady Lock-N-Load Bullet Comparator Insert 308 Diameter <span style="color: #FF0000">Sinclair version</span>
Sierra "5th Edition Rifle and Pistol Manual of Reloading Data" Reloading Manual <span style="color: #FF0000">Yes</span>
Hornady Lock-N-Load Sonic Cleaner Ultrasonic Case Cleaner
or
Tumbler w/ stainless steel media
Imperial Case Sizing Wax <span style="color: #FF0000">Yes, definitely, and the Imperial dry neck lube</span>
</div></div>

Get the comparator body, bump gauges, and comparator inserts from Sinclair to cover case length and seating depth.
I don't see calipers mentioned. I don't think you can reload without them. A digital is nice for zeroing out when using the comparator, and a dial is dependable for stuff like case length and simple measuring of parts and pieces. They're not expensive and it's nice to have both.
I've got a Forster case trimmer and it works just fine. But if you aren't going to be doing a bunch of brass at one time the little dinky ($15) Lee hand trimmer is pretty slick. It cuts to the exact minimum length on every caliber I've used.
I've got a plain old media tumbler and it works fine for my use.
I like the Sierra manual, but it's good to have more than one.
One of these makes it easy to find your bullet seating depth too:

http://www.sinclairintl.com/.aspx/pid=35491/Product/Sinclair_Bullet_Seating_Depth_Tool

 

[Greg Langelius *]

Re: Check me before I wreck me please

My view is based on experience; and is, of course, not entirely consistent.

My once and only press has been a Dillon RL550B, bought used nearly 20 years ago. Then and since, IMHO still the very best press I could have ended up with. A very fortunate bargain that it took me some time to truly appreciate.

In all other respects, my gear is the most basic and common.

Mostly RCBS 2-die sets, and old RCBS Digital Scale, some drop tubes, and a Lee Dial micrometer. A Lee Turbo Tumbler, a Dillon rotary separator, and a borrowed RCBS 5-10 balance scale for backup/checking. I don't trim, anneal, or turn necks; my brass gets turned in for recycle when it exceeds max length. I only use Rem/Win brass, and keep my loads sane enough so brass life's not so bad after all. Primer pickup tubes, a Dillon primer flip tray, and some RCBS water soluble Lube.

Dassit!

Greg

 

[Powder_Burns]

Re: Check me before I wreck me please

<span style="font-weight: bold">Stick with the Redding Press. Don't let the CO-AX guys corrupt you.</span> Replace the Sierra Manual with the Lyman 49th one. Its got more load data and doesn't focus on one brand of bullets.

 

[HKDOG1]

Re: Check me before I wreck me please

Thanks for all the advice so far guys, lots to think about.

Powder Burns: Any specific reasons you can give for sticking with the Redding would be appreciated.

 

[head2h2o]

Re: Check me before I wreck me please

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Greg Langelius *</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Without making comment about specific items, I suspect there is a tendency to buy the best first going on here.

Can't fault that. I do, however, suggest that items of a more generic nature may well be more than sufficiently adequate for much/most of your first few years' labors. The quality of the product is at least as much a result of care and technique as it is of the quality of the tools involved

I would prefer to be doing my learning and mistake making on implements of a lesser value, and save the greater expenditures for when my skills and insights permit less havoc and more expertise with the better gear.

First we walk..., then we run...

Greg </div></div>

I have to agree with the comments here. I started reloading for a lot less than what you would have in your setup and was able to reload some quality ammo.

If you got it, spend it. Heck its yours, but you can get away with spending less and still produce good ammo. Also, take the time to figure out what you really need. You don't always need the latest gadget.

 

[HKDOG1]

Re: Check me before I wreck me please

Thanks all for the advice, much appreciated. I will look into everything suggested here so far after work tonight. Please keep it coming.

Quick rebuttal to the "latest gadget/ could be cheaper" posts: I have come up with this list through reading and the advice of others. If you think a certain less expensive item will serve me better, then please tell me which one and why. I would appreciate it, that's why I posted this. One example is the Chargemaster 1500. I originally had a lesser digital scale (I seem to lean towards a digital scale) chosen, but through research and advice I found a lot of bad reviews/experiences with it. I have yet to find a bad review or been told not to get the 1500 (due to anything other than price). No offence meant, just letting you know I am not just picking things for the "cool gadget" factor

Anyway, please keep the good advice coming..

 

[fish30114]

Re: Check me before I wreck me please

Well, I second the CO-AX press in a big way. I've got a Rockchucker on one end of my Bench and a Coax on the other. Put the lock-n-load system on my Rockchucker...if doing it again, I'd have another CO-AX on the right side of the bench!

Also, I agree with the theory of 2 sets of calipers, I have a really good set--spend what you can here--PARAMOUNT tool for reloading, and I have the midpriced version digital from Sinclair for running my headspace gage full time.

I think a couple small things that really make the process smoother and nicer, and aren't really expensive, are a really good loading block, like the Sinclair Heavy Duty poly blocks, and Satern powder funnels which are caliber specific. Sinclairs primer pocket uniformers are the shiznit in a drill... I used almost exclusively Imperial die wax for a long time until I tried Hornady's Unique case lube--much prefere the Unique--they are both cheap enough, by some of each and try em both.

Another thing that is worth thinking about, is to pick a good stool or chair if you are going to sit while reloading--I had a crappy chair for a while, and it hurt my back by the end of a session...another thing that is worth paying attention to is your lighting for your loading area. Make sure you have good light that will cover all your work.

Good luck to you--I think your gear list is pretty solid, and I actually like the 'buy first quality tools' approach myself.

 

[fw707]

Re: Check me before I wreck me please

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Greg Langelius *</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> and a borrowed RCBS 5-10 balance scale for backup/checking.
Greg </div></div>

After limited experience with one digital scale, I would NEVER trust them without a beam scale for verification.
I use a Redding dump measure, a trickler, and a 505 RCBS scale.....slow, but deadnuts every load.

 

[fish30114]

Re: Check me before I wreck me please

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: fw707</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Greg Langelius *</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> and a borrowed RCBS 5-10 balance scale for backup/checking.
Greg </div></div>

After limited experience with one digital scale, I would NEVER trust them without a beam scale for verification.
I use a Redding dump measure, a trickler, and a 505 RCBS scale.....slow, but deadnuts every load. </div></div>

I think having a backup is good, and of course to each their own, for sure--but two quick things: You should always calibrate a scale, digital or otherwise--the scale with the chargemaster comes with the check weights in little holders on the body of the scale. Second, virtually all Laboratory work is done with digital scales--serious precision needed in that environment--granted-these scales cost many many times what a typical reloading scale would, but I've checked scales ad nauseum, and my beams (still own 1) were never any more accurate. A good habit to get into is to look into the case after you have charged it (them) and note that the powder level is at a reasonably appropriate height in the case--fairly easy to get a feel for how full the case should be with a particular powder.

 

[427Cobra]

Re: Check me before I wreck me please

Macht Schnell in a world of digital this and that old school balance beam scales are rock solid repeatable tool to have, a ChargeMaster is a great tool too, but everybody needs a balance beam and check wieghts.

 

[vman]

Re: Check me before I wreck me please

Heres your original list, updated according to what i thik are better options...

Forster co-ax Press
Forster Ultra 2-Die Set 308 Winchester
RCBS ChargeMaster 1500 Powder Scale and Dispenser Combo
LE Wilson Manual Case Trimmer with base/sharkfin/micrometer/VLD chamfer insert
Redding Shellholder #1
Tubb BMU Ballistic Meplat Uniformer 308 Caliber
Hornady Lock-N-Load Bullet Comparator Body
Hornady Lock-N-Load Bullet Comparator Insert 308 Diameter
Hornady Lock-N-Load Headspace set for comparitor tool
Sierra "5th Edition Rifle and Pistol Manual of Reloading Data" Reloading Manual
Tumbler w/ stainless steel media
Imperial Case Sizing Wax
Digital caliper

 

[Sean the Nailer]

Re: Check me before I wreck me please

Dial Calipers,
---ALWAYS have them on hand. You won't 'Just' be measuring ammunition components.

Lyman Manual,
---Always start with this great tutorial. Actual tested numbers, and not 'geared towards a particular brand'.

Clean Rags,
---You'll end up looking for some anyways, so just have them on hand.

Quickload,
---Gives you an incredible amount of information, as well as stores the info that you input. Notes with details for reference.

The rest, component wise, is more of a "personal, functional, and sometimes 'fashionable'" choice.

 

[HKDOG1]

Re: Check me before I wreck me please

UPDATE, see OP...

 

[insectguy]

Re: Check me before I wreck me please

As far as the tumbler, I use the rotary tumbler, and will never go back. Although I do have the stainless media, I only use it for my .338lm and .308 cases. Everything else gets only dawn dishwashing liquid and lemishine. My handgun brass comes out shiny, and I don't have to worry about separating it. The .223 is a real pain to get the stainless media out of-- the pins clump together inside the casing. So, I don't use it there either.

 

[vman]

Re: Check me before I wreck me please

I still think, if you have the option to use Lapua brass or any other brass that doesnt require stupid amounts of prep go with that, and save on buying a stack of brass prep tools.

 

[Headgear]

Re: Check me before I wreck me please

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I still think, if you have the option to use Lapua brass or any other brass that doesnt require stupid amounts of prep go with that, and save on buying a stack of brass prep tools.</div></div>

I, like many went at it the other way around. I bought Win and all the prep tools, now I am going to get Lapua and hope not to use the prep tools. Live and learn!

 

[doc76251]

Re: Check me before I wreck me please

I've written a bit on reloading and getting started here, Reloading 101 and 201 respectively so my opinions are well documented. Single stage press, good dies, a beam scale and spray lube. Rotary tools in a drill press for brass prep and carry on smartly.

Cheers,

Doc

 

[HKDOG1]

Re: Check me before I wreck me please

Yes I have read those 2 articles, helped out a lot. Thanks!

 

[vman]

Re: Check me before I wreck me please

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Headgear</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
I, like many went at it the other way around. I bought Win and all the prep tools, now I am going to get Lapua and hope not to use the prep tools. Live and learn! </div></div>

Dont get me wrong, nothing wrong with having the gear, but if your starting out, and your cases are available from mobs like Lapua or Norma, then why not just save yourself the hassle and learn on some good strong brass.

When it comes to brass I go by the principle of buying the best brass I can and treating it like a queen. IF thats not an option then I look to other sources.

Besides its probably easier on the OP's bank account to go with good brass that needs no prep work, rather than fork out heaps for powered brass prep tools and the like... cash flow baby !

 

[HKDOG1]

Re: Check me before I wreck me please

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: vman</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Headgear</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
I, like many went at it the other way around. I bought Win and all the prep tools, now I am going to get Lapua and hope not to use the prep tools. Live and learn! </div></div>

Dont get me wrong, nothing wrong with having the gear, but if your starting out, and your cases are available from mobs like Lapua or Norma, then why not just save yourself the hassle and learn on some good strong brass.

When it comes to brass I go by the principle of buying the best brass I can and treating it like a queen. IF thats not an option then I look to other sources.

Besides its probably easier on the OP's bank account to go with good brass that needs no prep work, rather than fork out heaps for powered brass prep tools and the like... cash flow baby !</div></div>

I have been shooting FGMM 175's HPBT (commercial bought) and saving the brass for a while, so that is the brass I was going to start out with.

Good/Bad idea?

 

[vman]

Re: Check me before I wreck me please

Go for it brother.

Bear in mind some of the older Fed brass is a little on the thin side, but by all means should be fine to start out with.

If it were me I would learn the ropes on the fed brass and load up with loads that arent close to hot.

I would expect brass life to be much lower than Lapua, win or Norma type brass, however because you have it I would suggest you use it.

Also, Fed brass is great for hunting loads because in the field you can just eject the case and not fret over leaving the brass on the floor.

Once your ready to move on, premium brass is your next best bet.