Re: Cheek Hardware
The lower unit is nowhere near close.
I'm using a spring loaded steel claw to grab the pins. The KNW slices the center of the base to allow the screw to clammer down around the pins.
The pin bores are diamond honed so that they run like ice skates. Nice and slick till you snug up the clamp screw. Then it locks down solid with very little screw pressure required.
Also the unit is form fitted to the stock inlet. It doesn't have the "sprocket teeth" on the ends for the epoxy to bite onto. I grooved the periphery so that you don't see it. Its also at a right angle to the direction the part would naturally want to try and come loose from. Not that these things really have a habit of coming loose.
The top is virtually identical. In fact that's what I used to model it just because it was quick/dirty and had the 1.500" center to center hole spacing. I added the bronze washers just to be a little different so that I didn't completely plagiarize the thing.
I decided to skip the C clip thing as its just another part to loose in the field (ever drop one in the grass? -good luck finding it) Instead I engraved a scale on a pin. This way you pull it, do whatever you have to do, and reassemble to the line you were using.
On the target rifle cheek hardware, I make it so that the top is removable and the height setting is retained. The jack screw stays in the base. The owner didn't want a thumbwheel on this one so that's why I went this route.
Similar in some ways, vastly different in others.
