Since I am not a gunsmith nor interested in major redo's how would I evaluate a garand for suitability of purchase. I want a basic shooter and also to own a piece of American military heritage. Any advice on how to assess a garand? I know that I am ignorant in this regard, but would like to learn some more basics. Thanks.
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Choosing a garand
- Thread starter prairiefire
- Start date
Re: Choosing a garand
The simple and best answer is to buy a Garand from the CMP.
The price is right.
Best thing is they are gone over by Armors before they are put up for sale. You know they work and are safe to shoot. If for some weird reason it dosnt work, you'll never find better customer service. You will be guarenteed it with be a shooter as well as a piece of history.
The simple and best answer is to buy a Garand from the CMP.
The price is right.
Best thing is they are gone over by Armors before they are put up for sale. You know they work and are safe to shoot. If for some weird reason it dosnt work, you'll never find better customer service. You will be guarenteed it with be a shooter as well as a piece of history.
Re: Choosing a garand
I've <span style="font-weight: bold">never</span> heard any advice other than the CMP.
I've <span style="font-weight: bold">never</span> heard any advice other than the CMP.
Re: Choosing a garand
I walked into a gun show 10 ~ 12 years ago and saw a Garand for $450, so I offered $400 and got it.
The next gun show I saw another one for $400, so I offered $350 and got it.
They both say "Denmark" on the receiver.
They have national match sight parts.
I know I shot at least one of them.
I did not get the kind of good groups I get when shooting an AR, so I put them in storage.
I walked into a gun show 10 ~ 12 years ago and saw a Garand for $450, so I offered $400 and got it.
The next gun show I saw another one for $400, so I offered $350 and got it.
They both say "Denmark" on the receiver.
They have national match sight parts.
I know I shot at least one of them.
I did not get the kind of good groups I get when shooting an AR, so I put them in storage.
Re: Choosing a garand
My $.02 If your not looking for apiece of history (orignal) Like myself, I purchased a Springfield example Garand in .308 and i'm very happy with it. You would not know it's not orignal until you check the serial #'s
My $.02 If your not looking for apiece of history (orignal) Like myself, I purchased a Springfield example Garand in .308 and i'm very happy with it. You would not know it's not orignal until you check the serial #'s
Re: Choosing a garand
Not to be a smart A$$ but have you considered the M14 or M1A. They are in most ways similar to a Garand, but in the ways they differ, they are better. I could never get that odd clip thing out of my mind. The original Garand was designed with a 20 round DBM, but I think McArthor vetoed it and also changed it back to '06 from an expiremental 276 or something like that. There are a few of the original types around and they bring a fortune. JMO
Not to be a smart A$$ but have you considered the M14 or M1A. They are in most ways similar to a Garand, but in the ways they differ, they are better. I could never get that odd clip thing out of my mind. The original Garand was designed with a 20 round DBM, but I think McArthor vetoed it and also changed it back to '06 from an expiremental 276 or something like that. There are a few of the original types around and they bring a fortune. JMO
Re: Choosing a garand
I have two Garands from the CMP. One is their version that is re-barreled and has a new stock and looks like new and shoots very well. The other is a Rack Grade at the lowest price and is a pretty good shooter. It looks like a battle rifle that has seen service in the toughest conditions. I can shove a clip in either and shoot it with no hesitation, they work just fine.
You have to satisfy certain requirements to get a rifle from CMP but it is easy enough to do. I am American Legion and they qualify but I was shooting competitively when I first signed up and that counts too.
Good luck!
Oh, and if you find one not from the CMP field strip it and look at the barrel for pitting and erosion, look at the reciever for hairline cracks and the bolt and lugs for excessive wear. Check the stock for cracks and repairs. Then shoot it and see if it functions reliably. Short of getting an armorer to check it out that is the best you can do.
I have two Garands from the CMP. One is their version that is re-barreled and has a new stock and looks like new and shoots very well. The other is a Rack Grade at the lowest price and is a pretty good shooter. It looks like a battle rifle that has seen service in the toughest conditions. I can shove a clip in either and shoot it with no hesitation, they work just fine.
You have to satisfy certain requirements to get a rifle from CMP but it is easy enough to do. I am American Legion and they qualify but I was shooting competitively when I first signed up and that counts too.
Good luck!
Oh, and if you find one not from the CMP field strip it and look at the barrel for pitting and erosion, look at the reciever for hairline cracks and the bolt and lugs for excessive wear. Check the stock for cracks and repairs. Then shoot it and see if it functions reliably. Short of getting an armorer to check it out that is the best you can do.
Re: Choosing a garand
For the Garand get ahold of Don in SC here on the Hide. He is a wealth of knowledge on Garand. He usually has nice ones for sale. All his are test fired so there are no surprises. I'm sure that he can supply the Garand that will fit your needs.
For the Garand get ahold of Don in SC here on the Hide. He is a wealth of knowledge on Garand. He usually has nice ones for sale. All his are test fired so there are no surprises. I'm sure that he can supply the Garand that will fit your needs.
Re: Choosing a garand
The thing about a repro or a SA M1A is simply, they werent there. At least thats a deal killer for me. I am interested in the history of the rifle and the connection to that time period.
The thing about a repro or a SA M1A is simply, they werent there. At least thats a deal killer for me. I am interested in the history of the rifle and the connection to that time period.
Re: Choosing a garand
How much time do you have? Seriously, there is SOOO much to know as far as what to pay for what you are getting it's mind-boggling! Know this... If anyone has a high-dollar Garand that they claim is all original and came back from WWII just as you see it... RUN AWAY!!! There really is no such thing as a WWII all original Garand. EVERY SINGLE ONE OF THEM that came back was dis-assembled and rebuilt using whatever brand of parts were at hand. If I were going to buy another one and wanted something relatively unmessed-with I'd probably be looking into an H&R from the 50's. You can still find them in original condition and for around $700-$900.
How much time do you have? Seriously, there is SOOO much to know as far as what to pay for what you are getting it's mind-boggling! Know this... If anyone has a high-dollar Garand that they claim is all original and came back from WWII just as you see it... RUN AWAY!!! There really is no such thing as a WWII all original Garand. EVERY SINGLE ONE OF THEM that came back was dis-assembled and rebuilt using whatever brand of parts were at hand. If I were going to buy another one and wanted something relatively unmessed-with I'd probably be looking into an H&R from the 50's. You can still find them in original condition and for around $700-$900.
Re: Choosing a garand
I ordered mine from CMP. It's not the lowest grade but one step up (Field Grade IIRC). Their site breaks down the differences (throat erosion and so on) but you can go from Rack all the way up to Collector Grades. BTW, CMP normally has a pretty decent deal on ammo by the can too.
I ordered mine from CMP. It's not the lowest grade but one step up (Field Grade IIRC). Their site breaks down the differences (throat erosion and so on) but you can go from Rack all the way up to Collector Grades. BTW, CMP normally has a pretty decent deal on ammo by the can too.
Re: Choosing a garand
I bought mine at Rose's department store in Virgina. Paid 340 bucks for it (years ago).
Has a new barrel and new stock on it.
I bought mine at Rose's department store in Virgina. Paid 340 bucks for it (years ago).
Has a new barrel and new stock on it.
Re: Choosing a garand
Well, other than examining the action, looking down the barrel (some will have really dark bores), and doing the "bullet test" (get a standard FMJ ball 30-06 surplus round and stick it in the muzzle, pointy end first - if it goes all the way in to the brass then you know the barrel has some wear, at least at the muzzle end).
Be prepared for common problems like the ejector spring, lots of them are old so instead of the *ping* as the stripper clip is ejected, you get a *bonk* because it pops about 1-2 feet into the air and lands on your head.
Also, (if prices around here in cali are any indication) expect to pay 500-600 for a basic plinker and 7-800 for one that is nice and clean with a good barrel.
Joining the CMP and buying one from them, or getting a CMP member to get one for you is the best way to go.
Well, other than examining the action, looking down the barrel (some will have really dark bores), and doing the "bullet test" (get a standard FMJ ball 30-06 surplus round and stick it in the muzzle, pointy end first - if it goes all the way in to the brass then you know the barrel has some wear, at least at the muzzle end).
Be prepared for common problems like the ejector spring, lots of them are old so instead of the *ping* as the stripper clip is ejected, you get a *bonk* because it pops about 1-2 feet into the air and lands on your head.
Also, (if prices around here in cali are any indication) expect to pay 500-600 for a basic plinker and 7-800 for one that is nice and clean with a good barrel.
Joining the CMP and buying one from them, or getting a CMP member to get one for you is the best way to go.
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