It's more accurate than me. Using Hornady Match 6.5PRC I can easily shoot sub-moa 5 shot groups. Last outing I shot 6 x 5 shot groups @ 100 yards. Best was 0.52 and worst was .92.
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Christensen Modern Precision Rifle
- Thread starter jb1000br
- Start date
Reading through the threads , I'm getting the feeling I should change my mind about the MPR I just placed on layaway at a local gun shop . For a rifle over 2 grand , there shouldn't be any dissatisfied customers .
I haven't read through 12 pages of comments but I own a CA 6.5 PRC 24" carbon barrel MPR. It shot great, sub MOA as advertised with factory ammo and my hand loads even better. I noticed a tiny amount of play at the joint of the folding stock. Not sure if it effected accuracy but shouldn't be present in a $2K rifle. Called CA and they emailed an RMA and shipping label. Gun was returned with new stock, barrel and matched bolt in under 2 weeks! I called them to ask what was done and they explained everything to me and went on to tell me it was "not up to CA standards for accuracy". Holy shit. Unsolicited they did all that and it was already sub MOA. The barrel had 600 rds through it. No the stock is very tight and locks securely. I paid $1900 new for my gun FWIW.
0.47" groups with Berger 156 EOL's and 55.6 gr RL 26 powder. 2950 fps. Loves 147 ELDMs also.
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Thanks db2000 . That's what I was hoping to hear ! I've never considered a high end rifle before . I figured if I do my part , the rifle should do it's part . I've hunted groundhogs for 30 years and was limited to point of aim out to 400 yards with my 22-250 and a fine cross hair Leopold . I will retire in 2021 and wanted to step up my game as a retirement gift to myself . You made me feel more confident in my choice .
I use a SilencerCo ASR brake so I have a QD option for my Omega 30 can. I feel like the CA is a little better at reducing recoil but the SiCo is definitely better than the ASR flash hider I had on there prior to the brake!
I‘m expecting delivery of an 300 PRC MPR later this week, I’m curious about your scopes objective is and the scope ring height. Could you share specifics of your setup?
Bit of a cross-thread here but I just received my MPR, after cleaning and a bit of slip the action is buttery smooth.
My 300 PRC arrived, my FFL who never says much about anything that crosses his counter said it was one of the most impressve he had ever seen. I'm excited about it myself, I've had a MPA 6.5 PRC and the MPR feels like a much better hunting field piece, much lighter than my MPA example.
I replaced the grip as soon as I had it home, much better feel and ergonomics, Nightforce Ultralite 30mm rings will go with a Leupold VX-5HD 3-15x56 for hunting and short range use. Not sure what will be the longer range scope yet, a player to be named later.
I replaced the grip as soon as I had it home, much better feel and ergonomics, Nightforce Ultralite 30mm rings will go with a Leupold VX-5HD 3-15x56 for hunting and short range use. Not sure what will be the longer range scope yet, a player to be named later.
Figured I’d jump in here too and say that I bought one in 6.5cm a few months ago and it’s been awesome. I can comfortably say it’s reliability 0.5-0.75 moa, even with cheap American gunner and with very little POI shift between ammo changes. Really I’ve only had two complaints:
1: The bolt travel was ROUGH when it was new. It’s getting better, but it would bind if you pushed it and damn near roll the gun over on lift if you didn’t hold on.
2: I had significant primer cratering when trying to do load development using Peterson SRP brass. Groups were fantastic, but I eventually couldn’t take it and I’ve switched back to Hornady LRP cases seems to have fixed the issue.
That aside though, it’s one of my most accurate rifles- probably capable of better than I can deliver. I paired it with a Leupold Mk5 3.6-18x44.
1: The bolt travel was ROUGH when it was new. It’s getting better, but it would bind if you pushed it and damn near roll the gun over on lift if you didn’t hold on.
2: I had significant primer cratering when trying to do load development using Peterson SRP brass. Groups were fantastic, but I eventually couldn’t take it and I’ve switched back to Hornady LRP cases seems to have fixed the issue.
That aside though, it’s one of my most accurate rifles- probably capable of better than I can deliver. I paired it with a Leupold Mk5 3.6-18x44.
Also, I ditched the brake. That thing was effective but loud as hell! If I were using it for a competition or precision rifle I’d use it, but then what would be the point of all the carbon fiber lightweight-ness? I’m still not sure what I’ll actually use the rifle for, other than just to have something completely different.
I took my MPR 300 PRC to the Manatee gun range outside of Myakka City Florida today, difficult conditions, hot and windy, I was reading 92-93 degrees, winds were varied 10-15 mph, it was weird, walking out to the targets it was blowing in, on the line it was from my four o’clock with varied gusts.
Ammo was factory 212 grain, I went expecting to fire minimal rounds, fired three 3 round groups at the 50 line mark to assure I was close after using a laser to set the scope up at home, I was pretty close , I only adjusted point of impact up about an inch and moved the target to the 100 yard line. My laser put the yardage at 101.7.
A word about recoil, I read earlier in this thread about the recoil of a 300 PRC and the lightness of the MPR and the potential effects it may have on scopes. I can say that without a doubt the brake on the MPR is unbelievably effective, in combination with the limbsaver it was a joy to shoot. Manatee has 51 stations but they are only utilizing odd number stations because of social distancing. The brake won’t make any friends at the range, the concussion was enough to drive inquires about the caliber and knock some stuff off the bench to my right.
First group.
2nd.
wind picked up.
3rd.
4th.
adjusted right. Flyer was first shot.
last group, adjusted up, flyer was first, trying to beat the gust,
I could be that room temperature hunter that wordsmith refers to earlier in the thread, I know I’m in no way a long range shooter yet, but I’m eager to learn. I felt pretty good about the rifle for the first time out. It definitely has potential as a hunting field piece. I’m happy with the purchase.
Ammo was factory 212 grain, I went expecting to fire minimal rounds, fired three 3 round groups at the 50 line mark to assure I was close after using a laser to set the scope up at home, I was pretty close , I only adjusted point of impact up about an inch and moved the target to the 100 yard line. My laser put the yardage at 101.7.
A word about recoil, I read earlier in this thread about the recoil of a 300 PRC and the lightness of the MPR and the potential effects it may have on scopes. I can say that without a doubt the brake on the MPR is unbelievably effective, in combination with the limbsaver it was a joy to shoot. Manatee has 51 stations but they are only utilizing odd number stations because of social distancing. The brake won’t make any friends at the range, the concussion was enough to drive inquires about the caliber and knock some stuff off the bench to my right.
First group.
2nd.
wind picked up.
3rd.
4th.
adjusted right. Flyer was first shot.
last group, adjusted up, flyer was first, trying to beat the gust,
I could be that room temperature hunter that wordsmith refers to earlier in the thread, I know I’m in no way a long range shooter yet, but I’m eager to learn. I felt pretty good about the rifle for the first time out. It definitely has potential as a hunting field piece. I’m happy with the purchase.
How's the one strap sling feel? I really prefer 2 straps.
I really like Savior and the quality of their bags. I've put my double rifle through quite a bit with it stuffed to the gills. Zippers and seams still hanging in there.
I like it for walking around and picking through the woods around here, it's very comfortable. I could see it being a problem in a flat out run but for my uses it's great.
Not sure if you're saving any money. The prefits are quite a bit more than a blank. Probly comes out about the same.
I have about 200 rounds through my 6.5 PRC and so far I am loving the rifle. But there is one thing I've noticed that I just seems like a genuine design flaw. The bottom of the handguard isn't flat. The handguard gets taller (ie bigger) toward the rear where it interfaces with the chassis. And its right where the rifles center of gravity is. See the picture below.
What is curious is the handguard has M-lok slots extending back past the change in dimensions. Basically right where I want to run an Arca rail.
But its not flat!
So there you go... I'm stuck either slapping an Arca rail right there, creating a big gap and hoping its stable or putting it quite a bit forward of the center of gravity.
With all that said, its still an awesome rifle and value.
Has this been an issue for anyone else? @stephanovich did your rail have this hump? Anyone have pointers for putting an arca rail all the way back to the mag well? Regular ole’ M-Lok work okay?
Jonesing for the MPR steel barrel in 300 prc anybody out there with some critical or soothing talk?
I’ve got a steel barrel MPR in bound. Assuming bending a rail would be a pretty janky option, I’ll have to get a thicker rail and see if I can get a buddy at a machine shop to fit it for me.
Finally got the MPR ready for the first actual range day this weekend after a quick sight in the week prior.
Bottom left was cold/clean barrel, the center was 2-5 and the left upper I pulled when the guy in the lane next to me fired what I believe to be a M198 Howitzer. Not too bad for cheap federal 168 and I only had time for one group as I had to help sight in a friend's AR10. I'll try to keep all the holes touching next weekend.
Bottom left was cold/clean barrel, the center was 2-5 and the left upper I pulled when the guy in the lane next to me fired what I believe to be a M198 Howitzer. Not too bad for cheap federal 168 and I only had time for one group as I had to help sight in a friend's AR10. I'll try to keep all the holes touching next weekend.
My magazine will fit COAL of 3.74". If you are single feeding then that just depends on your chamber. My COAL to lands for the Berger 215 HT is 3.735", Berger 230 HT is 3.735" and the 245 EOL is 3.804".
Joined the Club. Should be a couple weeks away from swapping out the CB7 with an ultra 7 and save a few ounces 
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What have you tried? If I have a barrel that doesn't seem to shoot, and doesn't do MOA with FGMM, I won't waste my time. Send it back.
Few things.
Just a picky barrel, but doesn't sound like it.
Barrel mirage, but I'm assuming you are used to something like that.
Barrel not stress relieved properly. I always thought it would string shots, not wonder around.
Pull the barreled action and reseat it in the chassis. It's the only thing I can suggest.
Just a picky barrel, but doesn't sound like it.
Barrel mirage, but I'm assuming you are used to something like that.
Barrel not stress relieved properly. I always thought it would string shots, not wonder around.
Pull the barreled action and reseat it in the chassis. It's the only thing I can suggest.
With all these m lock slots are there any "accessories" or "mods" worth attaching that are wasted weight? Primary use is hunting/varmit control with a close second in recreational target shooting. For example are there any lights bright enough to spot a coyote at 100 yards that would be cool to mount???
My set up:
6.5 CM Carbon 24" barrel
atlas bipod
Atlas monopod in the rear
Nightforce NX8 2.5-20
Nemo suppressor in jail
My set up:
6.5 CM Carbon 24" barrel
atlas bipod
Atlas monopod in the rear
Nightforce NX8 2.5-20
Nemo suppressor in jail
If you have the skills that should be no problem at all - at least it isn't with my 6.5 with the 24" barrel. You can develop the skills with youtube, practice and a friend or range officer helping.
With all these m lock slots are there any "accessories" or "mods" worth attaching that are wasted weight? Primary use is hunting/varmit control with a close second in recreational target shooting. For example are there any lights bright enough to spot a coyote at 100 yards that would be cool to mount???
My set up:
6.5 CM Carbon 24" barrel
atlas bipod
Atlas monopod in the rear
Nightforce NX8 2.5-20
Nemo suppressor in jail
I believe there is a varmint hunting company the sells lights to 250 yards . Carnivore?
Have you taken the top studs out of the muzzle break? That will help a lot. It pushes the barrel down so it stays on target better
Sorry I should have clarified actually I am compiling data to decide which rifle best fits my wants
MPA
Badrock
CA MPR
thanks
MPA
Badrock
CA MPR
thanks
Gotcha. With the MPR muzzle brake and studs out I was staying on target and seeing my follow through shots at 815 yards this morning. At 20x magnification. I have no desire to add unnecessary weight because it’s also a hunting gun I will carry on big hikes. That being said the 6.5 CM is heavier than an ultra light weight hunting set up but can also reach out far and is much better set up for tactical long range shooting. Added weight for me is the scope, bipod, rear bipod, and flashlight for coyote hunting.
Thanks, Tree bobby
I have the same plan, Hunting plus maybe a little steel plate action. Not sure I will be so lucky with a 300prc, my thoughts was to add weight for BR shooting. Anyone have some info how the 300prc will perform on BR with weight added? If so how did you weight chassis?
I have a 24” steel barrel MPR in 6.5PRC. Got a custom ammo mfg to send me 10ea of the following bullets (house powder/seating depth/Hornady brass)
127 Barnes LRX
135 A-Tip
140 ELD-M
140 Berger Elite Hunter
156 Berger EOL
My zero is with factory Hornady 143 ELD-X, that’s going 2875 with a barrel that’s probably not sped all the way up yet. For reference this ammo will easily do 3/4moa 5 shot groups.
I did 2 separate 3-shot groups in round robin style, and I didn’t go slow. So the barrel got pretty damned hot. I am not a reloader, but it was interesting to see the different types of group dispersions with the various bullets. Atips had a radically different POI. EOL’s had a horizontal dispersion, while 127 LRX’s were more generally scattered. The Hornady 140 ELD-M was ridiculously good, I’m probably the only reason both groups weren’t clover leads. With some tuning there should be plenty of good options. In my opinion the thin profile barrel did pretty good considering how hot it was.
127 Barnes LRX
135 A-Tip
140 ELD-M
140 Berger Elite Hunter
156 Berger EOL
My zero is with factory Hornady 143 ELD-X, that’s going 2875 with a barrel that’s probably not sped all the way up yet. For reference this ammo will easily do 3/4moa 5 shot groups.
I did 2 separate 3-shot groups in round robin style, and I didn’t go slow. So the barrel got pretty damned hot. I am not a reloader, but it was interesting to see the different types of group dispersions with the various bullets. Atips had a radically different POI. EOL’s had a horizontal dispersion, while 127 LRX’s were more generally scattered. The Hornady 140 ELD-M was ridiculously good, I’m probably the only reason both groups weren’t clover leads. With some tuning there should be plenty of good options. In my opinion the thin profile barrel did pretty good considering how hot it was.
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I have owned my MPR for over a year now, 6.5 creedmore, wish it were 6.5 prc. It shoots good enough for me, my complaints have been a rough bolt on pushing the round into the chamber, I can deal with that, what I hated was the trigger, dry fire appeared to be much better than when firing a round. I don't have an accurate trigger scale but my finger knows. I Remington factory triggers that are better, a Jewell that is real nice but this TT sucked.
When I saw the black Friday discount on Tubb Triggers and they had them in stock was too much temptation for me. Playing with the Tubb trigger out of the box was ok, whatever...CA gives instructions to disassemble the MPR, but they really don't want you doing it. All the screws were glued in with some unknown goop. The killer was the trigger guard screw at the rear of the trigger guard, it uses a tiny allen head countersunk screw. I had to search to find a proper fitting wrench, then before it moved, the wrench twisted off clean in the head. Nearest gunsmith is about 120 miles away so I thought I just as well screw it up myself, took my dremel tool and a cutoff disc and made a cut in the screw head that a high quality bit would fit into, used a soldering iron to attempt to heat the locktite and promptly sheared the flat bit off as well. Heated it again and used a hammer to shock the threads. Used another high quality bit with a ratchet handle next. I don't know how much torque it took to move the screw, I probably could of helped if I had used a propane torch but I had no way of knowing just how hot I could stand.
The Tubb 2 stage Trigger needed some fitting to sit deep enough into the action to function, the dremel tool and a flat file cleaned it up. I put a tiny spot of locktite on the screws to reassemble.
The Tubb 2 stage Trigger to me is worth every cent it cost. Most any of the higher quality triggers would be an improvement over the TT Primary trigger that comes standard. If and when the MPR leaves the Tubb trigger will come off.
When I saw the black Friday discount on Tubb Triggers and they had them in stock was too much temptation for me. Playing with the Tubb trigger out of the box was ok, whatever...CA gives instructions to disassemble the MPR, but they really don't want you doing it. All the screws were glued in with some unknown goop. The killer was the trigger guard screw at the rear of the trigger guard, it uses a tiny allen head countersunk screw. I had to search to find a proper fitting wrench, then before it moved, the wrench twisted off clean in the head. Nearest gunsmith is about 120 miles away so I thought I just as well screw it up myself, took my dremel tool and a cutoff disc and made a cut in the screw head that a high quality bit would fit into, used a soldering iron to attempt to heat the locktite and promptly sheared the flat bit off as well. Heated it again and used a hammer to shock the threads. Used another high quality bit with a ratchet handle next. I don't know how much torque it took to move the screw, I probably could of helped if I had used a propane torch but I had no way of knowing just how hot I could stand.
The Tubb 2 stage Trigger needed some fitting to sit deep enough into the action to function, the dremel tool and a flat file cleaned it up. I put a tiny spot of locktite on the screws to reassemble.
The Tubb 2 stage Trigger to me is worth every cent it cost. Most any of the higher quality triggers would be an improvement over the TT Primary trigger that comes standard. If and when the MPR leaves the Tubb trigger will come off.
I replaced at AIAT with the MPR (and a good chunk of cash) I talked about a few posts up. It’s not even in the same ballpark from an equipment function or accuracy perspective. I’m sure the same can be said for many of the custom rifles out there.
However, the chassis and overall weight is much more practical for field use, and crossover to some recreational long range shooting to keep your hunting skills sharp. My sample will shoot factory 143 Hornady ammo under a minute pretty easily. And that’s plenty good for a hunting gun. Let’s not fool ourselves, there’s folks that brag about group sizes and there’s folks that just go out and kill stuff in the real world.
However, the chassis and overall weight is much more practical for field use, and crossover to some recreational long range shooting to keep your hunting skills sharp. My sample will shoot factory 143 Hornady ammo under a minute pretty easily. And that’s plenty good for a hunting gun. Let’s not fool ourselves, there’s folks that brag about group sizes and there’s folks that just go out and kill stuff in the real world.
Interested in knowing what malfunction(s) and accuracy issues you had over the AIAT? I had a loose stock at the joint and Christiansen replaced it as well as the barrel and bolt, unsolicited, as they felt it didn’t meet their accuracy standards. I was getting sun MOA and now 0.6” with Berger 156 EOL’s.
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