Suppressors Cleaning a "Permanent" Muzzle Brake

[samb300]

I am running a brake and can for the first time, and wondering if anyone has any tips for cleaning a muzzle brake that for all intents and purposes is permanently attached.

Can is an Ultra 7, and I'm running the factory TBAC CB brake, which is red loctited on (per their recommendation). I'm not interested in heating up/removing/re-torquing the brake each time I clean.

I'm finding that when I clean at my normal interval (~300 rounds) the brake is super caked with carbon and the muzzle crown is basically black. I've tried the foaming Wipe Out and regular liquid carbon cleaners, but the crown is a pain to get to and the brake itself still seems to have buildup even with loads of q-tips and nylon brush scrubbing. Even trying to clean the crown after only 100 rounds is a pain and I am hesitant to use a dental pick for fear of slipping and damaging the crown.

Any advice???

 

[SDet]

Not sure about the crown portion, but you can clean the brake itself with a ss wire brush. The coating on the brake is harder than the ss.

 

[hollowoutadime]

I just did this with my TBac brake on my AI/AT. Filthy after about 1000 rounds. There is a thread by Orkan where he uses CLR. I put about 2" of CLR (not diluted) in a plastic cup and put the rifle barrel upside down into it. After about 5 minutes it came right off with a little scrub with a nylon brush. Ate right thru carbon. Did not affect finish. Looks like new. Cleaned off residue with wipeout/gun oil.

I've had the TBac brake come off with the can before, just clean the threads on both and reapply locktite for a few hours. Tap can at base with a small dead blow and it comes right off (might not even need to tap it).

 

[BurnOut]

I've used a couple of different approaches, depending upon how dirty the brake is.

My default go-to method after a typical range day is to get proper pipe cleaners (such as Bryn Mawr Ream-n-Klean), soak them in a carbon solvent (I typically use KG1), and scrub/detail the brake. Regarding the carbon solvent, I recently came across an article written by Hide user orkan where he recommends using the household chemical CLR as a carbon solvent. Just the other day, I gave this a shot for the first time, and seemed pretty impressed with it... though I have to admit that the gun I was cleaning wasn't all that dirty, so it's tough to say if I gave it a thorough test.

My second method, which I have only had an opportunity to try once, is to get a small jar (I'm actually using an empty JB Bore Paste jar) and fill it about 3/4 of the way with Piston Kleen, then set the rifle with the muzzle/brake in the jar. Let it soak for an hour, then pull it out and dry it off. The carbon just flakes off at that point. I did it a second time, and flaked off some of the carbon that was freshly exposed after the first go 'round. This time, the brake was absolutely clean... after ~500 rounds of Fiocchi .223.

 

[Kopfjager1]

Ive always used MPro 7 for the carbon that is able to be wiped off, but if the carbon is built up, Ive always used a brass scraper, looks similar to a flat head screwdriver. But I dont really care about the finish on the muzzle brake, not that it has scraped off the finish, yet. Just be methodical with scraping and you wont damage the TOMB.

The amount of carbon buildup on the TOMB has always been minimal because I clean it after each range use, whether its 10 rounds or a hundred, along with my chamber and moving parts. If you do this build up on the TOMB will be minimal and you shouldnt get a stuck can, or require a wrench for removal.

 

[Strykervet]

1. The amount of heat from a torch won't be enough to cause any heat damage. It probably gets that hot or close to it when you fire it.

2. Rocksett is generally stronger than red Loctite for this application and can easily be removed by soaking the brake in a cup of water. I use really hot water to start with, let it sit overnight, soak again in hot water for 15 minutes or so before I wrench it off.

3. If you remove it that often, have you considered not using anything at all? It's what I do and I don't have any problems provided they are tightened down sufficiently.

4. What's Zak say? He's on here and sure he's to chime in, especially if you edit your title to mention TBAC. You can also call him, he's a compendium of knowledge on this stuff and knows his own stuff better than anyone else. Great guy.

If you look, you may also be able to find small brass brushes that will fit on a drill and inside the brake. Seems somebody make something for everything now. Search brush makers, you'd be surprised at the specialty stuff made these days. Also, have you considered using a bore brush of the appropriate size to fit down the brake but not the muzzle? I'm still a fan of dental picks, but I like to use them after soaking in Hoppes #9 first, longer the better. An ultrasonic setup can also do the job, and quickly, if you can suspend the rifle over the pan/tub so the muzzle sits in it without putting all the weight on it. They're nice for cleaning certain other items like whole pistols as well as small amounts of brass (depending on size and amount you consider "small"). You can clean a whole M4 upper in the Hornady one I have and they make detergent for both brass and firearms. I also use Kroil in a pan inside the US cleaner for items that it would normally damage (aluminum, some coatings, etc.). Cans, for instance, need minimal cleaning with a brush or pick afterwards when using Kroil with no damage. Pistols and such come out spotless.

Oh, and crowns can easily be repaired. An old trick (and what many gunsmiths still use to this day) is to take a carriage bolt and apply abrasive to the end and spin that on the crown. All you have to do is be careful and ensure it's as straight as possible and it's almost impossible to screw up. It removes less material than tools do and is easier for DIY as well. Something good to know in a pinch nonetheless.

Good luck, I know what you mean about babying the crown.

Oh shit, this was my 1000th posting! Happy something to me!

 

[Zak Smith]

We recommend just using a still bristle brush to clean the outside of the brake and the outer threads. You don't need to remove it. We never do on our demo guns.

Rocksett is about the same strength as blue loctite, it's easy to turn off. Red is stronger but does melt.

 

[craigos]

Buy this stuff. Saturate the brake - leave 15 mins, wipe off - repeat. Best damn stuff ever. Never use an abrasive pad and ruin your finish, I shit you not. https://www.midwayusa.com/product/20...solvent-liquid. Turns the carbon to liquid goo you can wipe off with a simple cloth ...

 

[DI Precision]

I have the same issue with my TBAC breaks, I'm going to try the bore tech when I get home and report results.
if that doesn't work then I guess I will use the Chuck Norris tears ive got stashed away.

 

[BurnOut]

Did another experiment with the CLR, as Orkan recommends... this time it was the chamber of my 10/22. It's in a bullpup stock, and even if it wasn't, I wouldn't want to pull the barrel from the action, so cleaning from the muzzle end is my only option.

Anyhow, I tried using KG1 to soften the carbon, then KG2 bore polish to clean the carbon out of the chamber. No dice, so I tried JB Bore Paste instead. Still no dice. Tried soaking with KG1 for longer periods of time, and it didn't make a difference. However, ONE five-minute soak with CLR on a good bore mop, and damn near all the carbon disappeared. Absolutely stunning. I washed the chamber/bore with 91% isopropyl alcohol, then oiled with KG4. It's not perfect, but it's a hell of a lot better than it was.

 

[Strykervet]

We recommend just using a still bristle brush to clean the outside of the brake and the outer threads. You don't need to remove it. We never do on our demo guns.

Rocksett is about the same strength as blue loctite, it's easy to turn off. Red is stronger but does melt.

If you overdo the Rocksett, and a lot of people do, it can be pretty tough to get off, can be worse than red Loctite, and soaking in water overnight helps a lot. Otherwise, yeah, it comes off pretty easy but requires a lot of pick work to get the threads cleaned out IME. Red Loctite does well with a bit of heat, I kinda prefer it if a thread locker is to be used on a muzzle device.

I agree, they don't need to be removed for cleaning, not in general anyway, not if you stay on top of maintenance.

But he's talking about removing carbon and such from inside the brake. That's what I use old pistol brushes for, when they wear out they taper some and after soaking in a bit of Kroil a brush of the appropriate size will fit in the brake and clean out the crown without damaging it.

But I pretty much clean all my brakes/hiders on the outside using a brass brush kinda like you said, then wipe down with an oily rag.

 

[strikeeagle1]

This is one way I clean muzzle devices.
Post#5.
https://www.snipershide.com/shootin...r-s-hide-suppressors/6580488-cleaning-threads

 

[redneckbmxer24]

There's typically a gap between a brake and the muzzle and I have always had a paranoia about leaving solvent in their from cleaning, some solvents can eat away at metal. For non suppressed brakes, I'll clean with the brake on provided I can shoot it right afterwards to blow/burn all that crap out. If I can't it comes off for cleaning, and it does every over cleaning regardless just to get the build up out.

For suppressed applications I pull the brake every time since a lot more carbon builds up with them, my only exception is if I'm having to do a quick cleaning in the field. I've never permanently attached a brake and I've never had a issue as a result from not permanently attaching it. I just use a little high temp anti seize (the copper colored stuff used on brakes), and torque consistently with a snap on torque wrench and crows foot.