Re: Cleaning case question...
Thanks, I made sure there were no obstructions in em like sand or dirt shakes em off cleaned the inside with a brush instead of throwing em in a tumbler. Just got some Varget so Im going to tinker with some 168 SMK's and 155 SMK Palma matches.
...
Thanks, I made sure there were no obstructions in em like sand or dirt shakes em off cleaned the inside with a brush instead of throwing em in a tumbler. Just got some Varget so Im going to tinker with some 168 SMK's and 155 SMK Palma matches.
Re: Cleaning case question...
It's not absolutely necessary, but any carbon, dirt or grit will cause more wear and tear on your dies.
It's not absolutely necessary, but any carbon, dirt or grit will cause more wear and tear on your dies.
Re: Cleaning case question...
Yes...and if the necks aren't clean inside, seating force will vary causing more problems. If you have a custom chamber...don't scratch it up. JMHO
Yes...and if the necks aren't clean inside, seating force will vary causing more problems. If you have a custom chamber...don't scratch it up. JMHO
Re: Cleaning case question...
I brushed the cases down inside and out just didn't throw em in the tumbler. No custom chamber on this rifle Just my .308...
I brushed the cases down inside and out just didn't throw em in the tumbler. No custom chamber on this rifle Just my .308...
Re: Cleaning case question...
Shiney isn't important. Clean is. Even if it's just a cloth wet with lighter fluid. If you don't clean the insides of the case necks, your loaded rounds can have runout when you spin them. If your shooting less than 100 yards, it won't matter. The farther you shoot, the more detail you need to pay to your ammo.
Shiney isn't important. Clean is. Even if it's just a cloth wet with lighter fluid. If you don't clean the insides of the case necks, your loaded rounds can have runout when you spin them. If your shooting less than 100 yards, it won't matter. The farther you shoot, the more detail you need to pay to your ammo.
Re: Cleaning case question...
I absolutly clean my brass after each firing. There is alot of residue inside a case after its fired. The primer leaves some and so does the powder,and some rifles get residue on the outside of the necks. If you dont clean your brass you are going to scratch your dies and after a while ruin you chamber. I'll ask you this-- is a $4000.00 rifle worth the extra hour to tumble brass? I think so, but everyone has there own opinions right.
I absolutly clean my brass after each firing. There is alot of residue inside a case after its fired. The primer leaves some and so does the powder,and some rifles get residue on the outside of the necks. If you dont clean your brass you are going to scratch your dies and after a while ruin you chamber. I'll ask you this-- is a $4000.00 rifle worth the extra hour to tumble brass? I think so, but everyone has there own opinions right.
Re: Cleaning case question...
They need to be clean.
We take all this care and precision to load our ammo to be safe and accurate.
This is not a step to be tossed away. I agree with Victor - Shiny is not necessary, but clean is..
One way I found to make this more painless is to buy a Lee decapper die (Or any other brand)...
When I get back from the range I just decap the primer (This is done dirty as it doesn't resize) and only takes a few minutes..
Throw them in the tumbler, stow gear and forget about it until the morning. Presto! Clean and it didn't take me much time as they clean overnight...
Hope this helps...
J~
They need to be clean.
We take all this care and precision to load our ammo to be safe and accurate.
This is not a step to be tossed away. I agree with Victor - Shiny is not necessary, but clean is..
One way I found to make this more painless is to buy a Lee decapper die (Or any other brand)...
When I get back from the range I just decap the primer (This is done dirty as it doesn't resize) and only takes a few minutes..
Throw them in the tumbler, stow gear and forget about it until the morning. Presto! Clean and it didn't take me much time as they clean overnight...
Hope this helps...
J~
Re: Cleaning case question...
Shiny may not be absolutely necessary, but all the work is done in the tumbler while I am asleep anyways.
Shiny may not be absolutely necessary, but all the work is done in the tumbler while I am asleep anyways.
Re: Cleaning case question...
you dont have to clen each reload, but the ammount of time it takes to tumble some rounds (i do 150) and then shake out the media is prob 5 min of my time minus tumbeling time.
i tumble twice per reload
once as the first step before resizing and depriming to get rid of excess carbon or about 2 hrs fthen trim ect and then again after to remove excess lube and to shine for 8 hrs (time im away at work or asleep) so i have a "new" case to prime and put powder in
you dont have to clen each reload, but the ammount of time it takes to tumble some rounds (i do 150) and then shake out the media is prob 5 min of my time minus tumbeling time.
i tumble twice per reload
once as the first step before resizing and depriming to get rid of excess carbon or about 2 hrs fthen trim ect and then again after to remove excess lube and to shine for 8 hrs (time im away at work or asleep) so i have a "new" case to prime and put powder in
Re: Cleaning case question...
Routine for my 1000 Yd. 308
After shooting throw in the tumbler for about 2 hours
Now, neck size the cases, wash in acetone, clean primer pockets, use a jewelers small screw driver to clean around the corner of the primer pocket where the primer anvil seats, measure and trim as necessary to 2.005 Every time , re-champher case necks if trimmed or if burred, Polish inside of case necks with a .38 cal. bronze brush in a low speed drill be careful not to remove metal. Wash in acetone again and let dry over night. (Neck sizing not only, eliminates head space and keeps the case to the dimensions of your rifles chamber, they usually will not fit in another .308)
Clean is vital to protect dies and chamber.
Routine for my 1000 Yd. 308
After shooting throw in the tumbler for about 2 hours
Now, neck size the cases, wash in acetone, clean primer pockets, use a jewelers small screw driver to clean around the corner of the primer pocket where the primer anvil seats, measure and trim as necessary to 2.005 Every time , re-champher case necks if trimmed or if burred, Polish inside of case necks with a .38 cal. bronze brush in a low speed drill be careful not to remove metal. Wash in acetone again and let dry over night. (Neck sizing not only, eliminates head space and keeps the case to the dimensions of your rifles chamber, they usually will not fit in another .308)
Clean is vital to protect dies and chamber.
Re: Cleaning case question...
If I've just been plinking off the bench and the brass hasn't been anywhere but the box or in the rifle I will sometimes skip the tumble before I resize, but always after the resize. Random brass picked up after a class or whatever that's been on the ground gets a good tumble right away.
If I'm using good brass and my good dies I tumble before the resize too. Resizing dirty brass 'feels' gritty, or so I've convinced myself, so I don't want it mucking up my good dies or scratching good brass.
Sounds like I don't tumble near as long as others do. I usually let it sit for 30 minutes or so while I'm doing something else but never over-night or even for a few hours. I manually clean out the primer pockets though, so all I'm doing with the tumble is removing grit from the necks and sides and getting the lube off.
If I've just been plinking off the bench and the brass hasn't been anywhere but the box or in the rifle I will sometimes skip the tumble before I resize, but always after the resize. Random brass picked up after a class or whatever that's been on the ground gets a good tumble right away.
If I'm using good brass and my good dies I tumble before the resize too. Resizing dirty brass 'feels' gritty, or so I've convinced myself, so I don't want it mucking up my good dies or scratching good brass.
Sounds like I don't tumble near as long as others do. I usually let it sit for 30 minutes or so while I'm doing something else but never over-night or even for a few hours. I manually clean out the primer pockets though, so all I'm doing with the tumble is removing grit from the necks and sides and getting the lube off.
Re: Cleaning case question...
When I tumble I let'm go all night, otherwise I clean the inside and out with 0000 steel wool and or a Krazy Klothe, cleaning primer pocket is not required but they say the little things make a big difference at long ranges, it is essential that only clean brass go in your dies.
When I tumble I let'm go all night, otherwise I clean the inside and out with 0000 steel wool and or a Krazy Klothe, cleaning primer pocket is not required but they say the little things make a big difference at long ranges, it is essential that only clean brass go in your dies.
Re: Cleaning case question...
Anybody have any experience with ISSO's case cleaner? I dont have a tumbler yet and been using this stuff. Works great but just wondering if anybody else has an opinion on it.
Anybody have any experience with ISSO's case cleaner? I dont have a tumbler yet and been using this stuff. Works great but just wondering if anybody else has an opinion on it.
Re: Cleaning case question...
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: MitchAlsup</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Shiny may not be absolutely necessary, but all the work is done in the tumbler while I am asleep anyways. </div></div>
1+. It's not so much about the shinny issue, but it's clean so you can inspect the casings a bit easier. I always take a quite glance around the headspace area and neck, just to be sure there is no crack and bulging rings. Also, if nothing else, it minimizes the fouling when you resize your casings.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: MitchAlsup</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Shiny may not be absolutely necessary, but all the work is done in the tumbler while I am asleep anyways. </div></div>
1+. It's not so much about the shinny issue, but it's clean so you can inspect the casings a bit easier. I always take a quite glance around the headspace area and neck, just to be sure there is no crack and bulging rings. Also, if nothing else, it minimizes the fouling when you resize your casings.
Re: Cleaning case question...
chriso,
It depends on how long you're going to store the ammo. Residue will react with both the case and the powder, causing galvanic corrosion between the case and the bullet. Six month old ammo can start to show signs of reaction. It's another reason to use a liquid case cleaner before tumbling.
bdh,
Iosso works fine, when it gets old it will corrode the cases if left in the solution over ten minutes. Plus it's expensive compared to Birchwood-Casey. Using warm BWC will get the cases just as clean without the corrosion problem unless you leave them in for over eight hours. Ultrasonic will help remove the crap as it works, but works well without it. Another plus for the BWC is the solution will start to turn white as it cools, indicating it needs replacement.
4-0 steel wool down the necks will make seating easier and runout less, even if you chemically clean and tumble.
HTH,
DocB
chriso,
It depends on how long you're going to store the ammo. Residue will react with both the case and the powder, causing galvanic corrosion between the case and the bullet. Six month old ammo can start to show signs of reaction. It's another reason to use a liquid case cleaner before tumbling.
bdh,
Iosso works fine, when it gets old it will corrode the cases if left in the solution over ten minutes. Plus it's expensive compared to Birchwood-Casey. Using warm BWC will get the cases just as clean without the corrosion problem unless you leave them in for over eight hours. Ultrasonic will help remove the crap as it works, but works well without it. Another plus for the BWC is the solution will start to turn white as it cools, indicating it needs replacement.
4-0 steel wool down the necks will make seating easier and runout less, even if you chemically clean and tumble.
HTH,
DocB
Re: Cleaning case question...
Depends.. if your shooting a bolt action at the bench, and the brass stays clean.. or if your shooting a semi-auto, and all your brass is being thrown in the dirt.. I clean the brass that gets picked up from the dirt with soapy water.. rinse.. let dry before loading. this way the dirt won`t contaminate the tumbler media.. i usually run a bore brush inside the case necks, and use a soft scotch brite pad, or 0000 steel wool to remove the carbon build up on the outside of the case necks before i resize, or before i tumble.
Depends.. if your shooting a bolt action at the bench, and the brass stays clean.. or if your shooting a semi-auto, and all your brass is being thrown in the dirt.. I clean the brass that gets picked up from the dirt with soapy water.. rinse.. let dry before loading. this way the dirt won`t contaminate the tumbler media.. i usually run a bore brush inside the case necks, and use a soft scotch brite pad, or 0000 steel wool to remove the carbon build up on the outside of the case necks before i resize, or before i tumble.
Re: Cleaning case question...
Case cleaning, for me, is soot removal from neck and shoulder.
I have a spray bottle with dilute vinegar solution that I spray on to dampen the media and agitate for several minutes before adding the brass. Damp media and vinegar combine to do a far quicker and more effective, yet still safe, brass cleaning technique.
I let the media absorb the moisture before adding the brass so any swelling that may occur with the media takes place before it gets into the cases and packs their interiors solid.
Once the grand majority of the soot is gone, I cut the motor and separate out the media.
I have substituted diluted CLR for the vinegar. It works even better, I just don't have it handy all the time.
After several vinegar, etc. applications, the media simply needs to be dampened with plain water to get the same effect.
Once, I cleaned the brass in the CLR/media combo, simply left it in the idle tumbler overnight, and something very interesting happened. The brass developed a flat olive-green patina.
It was relatively durable, and survived handloading and firing, but would come off under moderately serious cleaning/polishing.
Also works with copper bullet jackets.
As far as I could tell it had no negative consequences.
Greg
Case cleaning, for me, is soot removal from neck and shoulder.
I have a spray bottle with dilute vinegar solution that I spray on to dampen the media and agitate for several minutes before adding the brass. Damp media and vinegar combine to do a far quicker and more effective, yet still safe, brass cleaning technique.
I let the media absorb the moisture before adding the brass so any swelling that may occur with the media takes place before it gets into the cases and packs their interiors solid.
Once the grand majority of the soot is gone, I cut the motor and separate out the media.
I have substituted diluted CLR for the vinegar. It works even better, I just don't have it handy all the time.
After several vinegar, etc. applications, the media simply needs to be dampened with plain water to get the same effect.
Once, I cleaned the brass in the CLR/media combo, simply left it in the idle tumbler overnight, and something very interesting happened. The brass developed a flat olive-green patina.
It was relatively durable, and survived handloading and firing, but would come off under moderately serious cleaning/polishing.
Also works with copper bullet jackets.
As far as I could tell it had no negative consequences.
Greg
