cleaning rimfires
- Thread starter Nukes
- Start date
Depends on which one of mine it is at the time. My wife's favorites, the Ruger Mark II's we have, use Froglube because it's such a pain to take them apart so something that requires as infrequent disassembling as possible is preferred. Older stuff gets MPro7 as it's nicely penetrating without all the caustic fumes. I see little reason to use anything other than those two, though a buddy of mine handed me a sample of SEAL1 to try.
This verbatim, with a KSS bore guide for my 40XB and coated Dewey rod:
Lilja Precision Rifle Barrels - Rimfire Maintenance
Lilja knows what they are doing when it comes to rimfire, I can tell you that.
Lilja Precision Rifle Barrels - Rimfire Maintenance
Lilja knows what they are doing when it comes to rimfire, I can tell you that.
4-5 strokes dry brushing(for Lead) followed by 4-5 patches wet with lighter fluid(removes the wax lube) and then fire 15-20 rounds down range to reseason the barrel.
I have never had a lead problem with my rimfires. Mine gets one dry patch after every range session, and then a thorough cleaning with Shooter's Choice (standard, not the lead remover) and a brush every 6 months to a year (2500 rounds or so). Honestly, with the lube, rimfires don't lead that much unless the barrel is rough. I have a Ruger Mk II pistol that has a chip out of the barrel and it leads like a mother at the chip. You would think with such a huge imperfection, it wouldn't shoot, but it shoots better than my Mark II with a pristine barrel. Go figure. That one gets the lead treatment... patches and brushes with Shooter's Choice Lead Remover.
You should note that most solutions designed to dissolve lead dissolve other metals as well. Do not leave lead remover in the barrel for an extended period. You will damage your bore. I suggest you clean your rimfire using conventional solvents and look down the bore. If it is clean after using conventional solvents, you don't need to use lead remover. The lube in 22LR as well as the low pressures generally keep lead buildup from happening. Match barrels help, too.
For full bore caliber pistols, I use the Lewis Lead Remover tool. Too bad they don't make one for 22 caliber. It works.
You should note that most solutions designed to dissolve lead dissolve other metals as well. Do not leave lead remover in the barrel for an extended period. You will damage your bore. I suggest you clean your rimfire using conventional solvents and look down the bore. If it is clean after using conventional solvents, you don't need to use lead remover. The lube in 22LR as well as the low pressures generally keep lead buildup from happening. Match barrels help, too.
For full bore caliber pistols, I use the Lewis Lead Remover tool. Too bad they don't make one for 22 caliber. It works.
I use boreteh rimfire blend on a nylon brush, this wets the bore while sweeping the carbon and junk out of the bore, then followed by 4 dry patches on a Parker and hale jag, lots of surface area. On a new barrel ill use a bronze brush about every 3-4 boxes. My old barrel I only have to bronze brush every 8-10 boxes. This is for benchmark 2 groove barrels on Remington 40x. Be car file cleaning, there have been more rimfire barrels ruined by cleaning than have been shot out. When you put a new jag or brush on your rod, run your finger nail across the joint, if you can feel a step and most of the time you can, take a piece of emery cloth and sand the joint down so you can't feel the joint between to rod and attachment. This little step will keep you from damaging the leade. Guys say " nylon brush won't do anything, but I use it for a sweep out not to cut through anything. It keeps you from running your jag over a piece of loose carbon laying in the bore and grinding it all the way down the bore. I've used this method for my old benchmark barrel and It has between 130,000 to 135,000 rds on that barrel, and it's still very competitive, enough that it won the ARA nationals this past summer. Hope this helps.
i don't clean rimfires often, but when i do i use the shooter's choice lead remover stuff for the bore (old guy w/beard!) using a brass brush back and forth about 20 times, patch it out, reapply with a wet dripping patch, let it sit for 5-10 minutes, 20 more passes with the brush. then patch it out, wet patch, then dry patches until there's no filth left.
then shoot about 50-100 rounds before it's reliable again.
for everything outside a thin coating of hi temp silicone grease over the rest and for lubing moving parts, or breakfree CLR.
then shoot about 50-100 rounds before it's reliable again.
for everything outside a thin coating of hi temp silicone grease over the rest and for lubing moving parts, or breakfree CLR.
My Uncle's Win. M52 that was willed to me, with the 6 groove Eric Johnson barrel, has only been cleaned twice in it's existance. Lilja is right about the bolt face and chamber. But, I leave everything else alone.....
The gun was built in the mid '30s.....and still one holes @ 50 yds on a windless day with the right ammo....
The gun was built in the mid '30s.....and still one holes @ 50 yds on a windless day with the right ammo....
My Uncle's Win. M52 that was willed to me, with the 6 groove Eric Johnson barrel, has only been cleaned twice in it's existance. Lilja is right about the bolt face and chamber. But, I leave everything else alone.....
The gun was built in the mid '30s.....and still one holes @ 50 yds on a windless day with the right ammo....
THAT is one awesome rifle!!! God they're sweet!! I tell myself I'll get one one day.
A few drops of Ballistol on the brush of a bore snake and a couple drops on the "tail" when I'm ready to put the gun up. One pass from breech to muzzle. Cleans, lubes, and protects.
I also have never had a leading problem with any of my .22's. I use weed whacker line that I melt the end with a used .22 case to make the end the same size as the case. Put a point on the other end punch a hole in a patch works as well as the Otis system. I also have a Dewey .17 cal. rod and another .17 Cal rod brass and a .22 Cal Brass rod, but I prefer the weed whacker line the best. It's quick and easy and fits tight to the barrel.
My Uncle's Win. M52 that was willed to me, with the 6 groove Eric Johnson barrel, has only been cleaned twice in it's existance. Lilja is right about the bolt face and chamber. But, I leave everything else alone.....
The gun was built in the mid '30s.....and still one holes @ 50 yds on a windless day with the right ammo....
Damn Russ, that is a thing of beauty! Never mind it has an Eric Johnson barrel. A friend of mine has one on his model 37, damn good shooter.
As far as cleaning a rimfire I really don't, unless it is going to be stored for several months or longer. Then I just patch out the barrel with a good solvent and dry it well hen a light coat of oil to help protect the metal.
