Not sure where to post this topic but since I’m gonna be doing it myself why not here. Has anybody made a closet into a gun safe? I have a small to medium sized house and my gun room is the smallest room in the house. My safe sits in there now but if I pull it out of there and frame up the jam get a steel door I could have one hell of a space. I am more worried about security then Fire. Thoughts ...
-
Having trouble using the site?
Contact support
Closet into a gun safe
- Thread starter flynbye
- Start date
I've thought about doing something like that. Would probably be fine for the average snatch and run burglary (at least until they came back after seeing that door the first time). Doesn't take much to punch through the interior walls of an average house these days.
Ya have thought about that I was thinking chicken wire or some screwed into the studs. Their is some things to really think about with this plan
Just adding a safe/steel door to on existing wood framed structure is only 30% of what you need to do. Secured concrete or steel walls, floor and ceiling are a must. Think of it like cover vs concealment.
I've been pondering something similar this weekend. So far I can't think of anything that would stall someone with a sledgehammer and a sawzall for more than half an hour. I'm in the construction trades so I'm fully aware of how easy it is to get through anything short of a purpose built vault.
Hmm, id take some sheet metal and basically line the walls forming a steel box. You’d wanna do this since it’d be pretty easy for a robber to just crash through on the other side.
You can weld this or even make the panels attach with screws for portability.
I then would beef up the door and the jamb. Followed by a KEYED electronic lock.
You can weld this or even make the panels attach with screws for portability.
I then would beef up the door and the jamb. Followed by a KEYED electronic lock.
That's an interesting idea. Hard for someone to break into a space that they can't tell exists in the first place.
The only way to do a non gun safe storage area.
Doing it right now. Entryway for the house goes into the basement, so there's a (small) three-sided concrete room in the basement. Selling the gun safe soon, putting a security cage for the guns, then a security cage wall for the entryway. Etc.
It won't be fireproof the way I am making it, but I am not concerned about that.
I say do not make do yourself. Google about and find security cages, or go visit the local safe company and talk to them about reinforcing a closet to your needs (security, fire?). This turns into into a "vault."
A cage supplier:
http://www.cisco-eagle.com/catalog/category/813/wire-partitions
Couple resources about making vaults in existing houses:
https://www.snapsafe.com/turn-any-room-into-a-vault
https://www.nrafamily.org/articles/2018/6/8/how-to-build-a-walk-in-gun-vault-cheaply/
https://www.contractortalk.com/f11/building-safe-room-vault-125321/
https://righttorisesuperpac.org/build-gun-vault-in-your-basement/
Etc. Google about.
It won't be fireproof the way I am making it, but I am not concerned about that.
I say do not make do yourself. Google about and find security cages, or go visit the local safe company and talk to them about reinforcing a closet to your needs (security, fire?). This turns into into a "vault."
A cage supplier:
http://www.cisco-eagle.com/catalog/category/813/wire-partitions
Couple resources about making vaults in existing houses:
https://www.snapsafe.com/turn-any-room-into-a-vault
https://www.nrafamily.org/articles/2018/6/8/how-to-build-a-walk-in-gun-vault-cheaply/
https://www.contractortalk.com/f11/building-safe-room-vault-125321/
https://righttorisesuperpac.org/build-gun-vault-in-your-basement/
Etc. Google about.
Wow, who da thunk! What gauge? You gonna cover walls, celing, floor? Weld or just some drywall screws? Easier said than done - be sure to post up videos.
Last edited:
Hi,
What are the dimensions of the room you are discussing?
Is the room in an area of the house that if you concealed the door, would someone automatically think there is a hidden room?
Sincerely,
Theis
What are the dimensions of the room you are discussing?
Is the room in an area of the house that if you concealed the door, would someone automatically think there is a hidden room?
Sincerely,
Theis
Last edited:
And just to screw with people, if you install this one, make sure the room is filled with fake snow, a lamppost and a Fawn. Maybe a lion named Asland too.
Hi,
I am positive that is suppose to be a reference to something but I got no idea lolol
Sincerely,
Theis
You dont have kids so I doubt you've seen the Chronicles of Narnia.
Edit: next time your tripping on acid take a look at it. Must see TV.
Hi,
O geez, I will have to see if it is available on Emirates flight home lolol.
Sincerely,
Theis
O geez, I will have to see if it is available on Emirates flight home lolol.
Sincerely,
Theis
https://hiddenpassageway.com/
This is where I got the idea for the bookshelf door I had. If I ever build I would have a hidden room under the attached garage. Concrete walls with mesh and precast concrete ceiling would be a great gun room.
This is where I got the idea for the bookshelf door I had. If I ever build I would have a hidden room under the attached garage. Concrete walls with mesh and precast concrete ceiling would be a great gun room.
Hi,
Great!!! If it wins me some "I want his baby" points from flight attendants then I should book this seat huh?
Sincerely,
Theis
D
Deleted member 10043
Guest
Reinforced door and locks with plywood on the other side and tamper proof hinges. But the rifles inside are in safes. Burglar alarm is most important. A burglar with enough time can destroy this but most don't have time. In fact, just locks on it will deter an addict, which chances are is going to be the type. They have only a short time to get In and out of the house.
Last edited by a moderator:
All security is best handled with a layered approach. The level of security needed for your closet would depend on the other layers have been implemented. If you already have a quality monitored alarm system, and reinforced doors, etc. then your closet could be much less complex than if you did not. It may be easier and less expensive to increase the layers of security outside of your closet than to retrofit a vault.
Was trying not to be too far into the principles, but Magnetic is all over it. The basic principle of security is that nothing is perfect. You are trading off (cost, convenience, etc) for time, and not relying on any one thing but a layered approach.
Fire security is an easier one for many to envision, but the same applies to people trying to pick, cut, or pry through doors. If you read little signs sometimes you will see a "30 Minute" wall, for example. This means it can handle the expected level of fire for 30 minutes with no firefighting efforts. You store gasoline in the building so the fire is hotter? Now it's an 8 minute wall. If you penetrate the wall — either damage from a blast, from items collapsing, or just workers drilling holes to install stuff, which is why the sign is there — then all bets are off.
Time.
Note that commercial buildings all have sprinklers, and fire extinguishers, and well-lighted exits, and regular fire inspections.
Layers.
For me, in a niceish suburb with typical fire response under 2 minutes, networked smoke detectors, nosy neighbors, house-sitters when away from town, etc. etc. I am not essentially at all concerned about fire safety, so don't need additional fireproofing, only have a few documents and backup drives in fire safes. For nefarious/deliberate threats: the same plus I have the highest security stuff behind a second door (more time) and I am also adding in motion sensing (sends notice to me) cameras, so anyone in the safe room when I am not there: bad thing and I call the local cops to come deal with it (reduced time).
If I was half an hour outside town like my one friend, I'd take a very different approach. And he is as he builds his new house on the opposite corner of his property. Doing a gun room, but sticking out from the house, not near the garage etc (cars are full of gasoline), and is fire insulated on all sides. Because instant fire detection could still be 20 minutes for the FD to get there with distance and twisty gravel roads. It could be an hour when you count weather, detection, and communications (bad mobile coverage so poor backup) time. Or what if you are in a wildfire area, and the FD is busy with everything being on fire. How far off are the neighbors: can they see smoke, or hear bad guys grinding through locks?
Fire security is an easier one for many to envision, but the same applies to people trying to pick, cut, or pry through doors. If you read little signs sometimes you will see a "30 Minute" wall, for example. This means it can handle the expected level of fire for 30 minutes with no firefighting efforts. You store gasoline in the building so the fire is hotter? Now it's an 8 minute wall. If you penetrate the wall — either damage from a blast, from items collapsing, or just workers drilling holes to install stuff, which is why the sign is there — then all bets are off.
Time.
Note that commercial buildings all have sprinklers, and fire extinguishers, and well-lighted exits, and regular fire inspections.
Layers.
For me, in a niceish suburb with typical fire response under 2 minutes, networked smoke detectors, nosy neighbors, house-sitters when away from town, etc. etc. I am not essentially at all concerned about fire safety, so don't need additional fireproofing, only have a few documents and backup drives in fire safes. For nefarious/deliberate threats: the same plus I have the highest security stuff behind a second door (more time) and I am also adding in motion sensing (sends notice to me) cameras, so anyone in the safe room when I am not there: bad thing and I call the local cops to come deal with it (reduced time).
If I was half an hour outside town like my one friend, I'd take a very different approach. And he is as he builds his new house on the opposite corner of his property. Doing a gun room, but sticking out from the house, not near the garage etc (cars are full of gasoline), and is fire insulated on all sides. Because instant fire detection could still be 20 minutes for the FD to get there with distance and twisty gravel roads. It could be an hour when you count weather, detection, and communications (bad mobile coverage so poor backup) time. Or what if you are in a wildfire area, and the FD is busy with everything being on fire. How far off are the neighbors: can they see smoke, or hear bad guys grinding through locks?
Great timing. I’ve been thinking about this too. I’ve got an unfinished room and considering using steel mesh on the walls that aren’t concrete and then a vault or hidden door like the bookcase.
I don’t think there is a way to make it secure from a determined burglar with time and equipment on their side. However, I’m guessing that type of setup would deter 99% of burglars and in conjunction with house security could be an economical option.
I don’t think there is a way to make it secure from a determined burglar with time and equipment on their side. However, I’m guessing that type of setup would deter 99% of burglars and in conjunction with house security could be an economical option.
How hard is it to break through brick? Not that hard. So, now we're to rebar to reinforce, and that requires sliding the blocks from the top, and... pretty soon it is not something you can do on existing construction.
If I had more land (I have none, very small lot) I'd have loved to dig out a space for a storm shelter, bury it entirely, and tie it into the basement through a vault door. Either normal vault break in, or you have to get a backhoe to get to my stuff
If I had more land (I have none, very small lot) I'd have loved to dig out a space for a storm shelter, bury it entirely, and tie it into the basement through a vault door. Either normal vault break in, or you have to get a backhoe to get to my stuff
I had thought about this alot when I finished my gun room in previous house. I framed the the gun closet/ hidden safe in the corner that was concrete on 2 sides so I framed it with metal studs and used rock wool to insulate for fire protection and sheet rocked it with 5/8 fire rock. Then framed another closet the remaining length of that wall so that the bookshelf looked like it was sitting against the exterior wall instead of a box with a bookshelf against it. I think a hidden room is better than a cheap safe. I can get in a cheap safe with a grinder and cutting wheel in no time at all.
I once strengthened a closet with material on hand. I lined the inside with heavy plywood, nailed up a layer of leftover chain link fencing, then more plywood. Installed a exterior door. Figured it would be time-consuming compared to just punching through the sheetrock and give a little time for the burglar alarm to do its thing. Outgrew that space and purchased a good safe, but that closet was peace of mind.
The only thing cooler than a bunker would be having a Compound with a bunker.Yes. Yes it is
Doing the same thing. Current closet is already fire resistant, it used to have an oil furnace in it. Lining it with 3/4 fire retardant plywood and upgradding the the door and frame. Building rifle racks and mounting items on plywood.
ETA:. If I was in a new construction I'd consider diamond tread walls.
ETA:. If I was in a new construction I'd consider diamond tread walls.
It's also tied into my security system via a wireless sensor. Only problem I've run into is that if power is lost, my UPS only has enough to run the security system, the magnetic locks, and the cameras for 2 hours. Without power, I only have the standard lock on the closet door for now
So, when power drops, does it fail locked or unlocked? Cause, if it's a movie: totally fails unlocked
The usual solution is just to provide a power point somewhere. Then you can plug in a battery to run the locking mechanisms. Just keep a battery or three charged (just a few SLAs, with appropriate leads, charge every 6 months or so...) and plug in when it's time to unlock. Unplug when re-locked, to avoid drawing the backups down, of course.
Other option (or likely, alongside that one) is you have the system shut off by default when on UPS (many have USB or other data out for this), to avoid draining the UPS battery so fast. Then set the keypad or something so you can manually turn it on before you need access.
I have a lot of switch covers in the basement if you need me to mail you one.
The usual solution is just to provide a power point somewhere. Then you can plug in a battery to run the locking mechanisms. Just keep a battery or three charged (just a few SLAs, with appropriate leads, charge every 6 months or so...) and plug in when it's time to unlock. Unplug when re-locked, to avoid drawing the backups down, of course.
Other option (or likely, alongside that one) is you have the system shut off by default when on UPS (many have USB or other data out for this), to avoid draining the UPS battery so fast. Then set the keypad or something so you can manually turn it on before you need access.
I have a lot of switch covers in the basement if you need me to mail you one.
A concrete box below ground level with water on the outside is - a vault / bunker.
A concrete box below ground level with water on the inside is - a swimming pool.
Make sure you choose the correct one, when storing your weapons.
A concrete box below ground level with water on the inside is - a swimming pool.
Make sure you choose the correct one, when storing your weapons.
Sometimes people over think security and don't start a project until they have the perfect solution, or the money to complete it.
How often do you see a post with guns all over a peg board in a room with a normal consumer door?
Or, not enough safe space and guns just stacked in a closet? or under a bed?
The mission Impossible guys or the A Team might target your house but if it's not a fire it's most likely it's going to be thugs doing an opportunity house break in. Make your plans for a miniature Fort Knox but in the mean time do something. If you have a Safe-In-A-Closet Idea, fine. But get something done quick.
How often do you see a post with guns all over a peg board in a room with a normal consumer door?
Or, not enough safe space and guns just stacked in a closet? or under a bed?
The mission Impossible guys or the A Team might target your house but if it's not a fire it's most likely it's going to be thugs doing an opportunity house break in. Make your plans for a miniature Fort Knox but in the mean time do something. If you have a Safe-In-A-Closet Idea, fine. But get something done quick.
My buddy is a contractor and his parents were building a new house. He did a complete concrete room including a solid slab on top. He found a old used bank vault door that showed age and had it sealed. The room had all the security systems inside as well as a built in dehumidifier, hvac and generator power.
If I were to do a closet setup with or without a safe I would consider lining the entire area with a sandwich of concrete board filled with sand then 3/4" drywall for fireproofing.
Now that I’ve bought a house, I’m at the point where I’m ready to do this kind of project. A surprising source of info for construction is fema and their plans for a tornado shelter.
https://www.fema.gov/media-library/assets/documents/3140
https://www.fema.gov/media-library/assets/documents/3140
Instead of a vault door what are thoughts on just a steel door and frame with a deadbolt?
Would that be enough to stop someone from kicking it in or if they had a sledge?
I’m not too concerned about people coming in with plasma torches, haha. Plus the police response time to my place is only a few minutes.
Would that be enough to stop someone from kicking it in or if they had a sledge?
I’m not too concerned about people coming in with plasma torches, haha. Plus the police response time to my place is only a few minutes.
First off, "selling the gun safe soon" might not be the right thing to do. Here's why:
As many others have suggested in this thread and others, "security" done right is in 'layers' (like an onion) Attraction/distraction is your friend.
--as such, leaving the safe, with tasco's and millett's and whatnot, and accidentally leaving it 'unlocked' can be your best friend. If (God Forbid) the worst happens and they get that far,,,, they'd be "happy" to find some baubles and bling that they think they can pawn for "hits 'n fixes". Point is, they'd generally "stop" looking for anything else, because "they already found it, AND they were so lucky that it happened to be open.
Vast majority of crooks ain't smart, that's why they're crooks. Same reason why it's a good idea to leave a few 20 dollar bills on your dresser. As soon as an 'uninvited guest' gets that kind of cash, they're off to get that fix that they're there for, to begin with.
There are many different 'wrecking bars' and 'prybars' and even FireFighter designed "Pulaski" bars that are specifically designed to get into doorways. Believe me when I tell you, done right they are VERY effective. Now, not everyone has one of these 'bars', and those who do don't always know how to properly use them.
Now, you have "design protection" to think about, with regards to your door opening and structural design. Go further with that, and protect yourself without treading on/crossing the line of local ordinances regarding the "fortification of your living space" because there ARE places where it is illegal to do such. So yeah, I'm not telling you to break the law, nor am I telling you how to do such. Read between the lines for the protection of your family, your goods, and your investments. Fire may not burn 'through' steel, but the heat-transfer of it is quite efficient. Adding a barrier(s) to prevent such heat transfer can be a GREAT thing.
Cryptic enough for you? Good luck!
