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The ZERO Reloading Press
Note: Dust covers were included free of charge with the initial batch of presses, sold in Summer 2020. To add one of these USA Made, high-quality covers to your ZERO order, head >> HERE << As the quality and precision of reloading equipment has advanced in the last few years (AMP Annealers...www.area419.com
Buy this.
You will have the best precision loading press available. You will not wear it out. If you can keep your grandchildren from being brainwashed socialists, they will inherit it and keep using it.
That is all.
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I have several of the ones mentioned above. I think the Dillon 650 should be considered, even if you use it as a single stage at first. Mine is great for rifle case processing. Huge time saver. Add a case feeder and it's unbeatable for speed, even for simple things like priming cases.
A Co-ax is a great 2nd press, I have been using one for almost 20 years.
However, it is an inadequate only press. There some operations and applications that it sucks at, like primer pocket swaging, bullet pulling, universal decapping, removing stuck cases, using bulge busting push through dies...etc. Changing the jaws from large to small for 223 is also a pain in the ass.
I have a Co-ax and 2 Dillons and I still use my Lee and RCBS "O" presses just as much.
Any of the heavy cast "O" presses by Lyman, RCBS, Lee, Hornady, or Redding.What would be a good first press?
Understood.I did just see a video on the 419 and it looks badass. But just question myself if I need a $1000 plus single stage?
I did just see a video on the 419 and it looks badass. But just question myself if I need a $1000 plus single stage?
This.Any of the heavy cast "O" presses by Lyman, RCBS, Lee, Hornady, or Redding.
I think the co-ax is a fine first and only press. I dont have issues bullet pulling or decapping (its the best decapping system imo with its cup). I dont shoot shit brass so I dont swage pockets so I guess consider that if you do. Ive also never stuck a case wiht it so if you choose to not lube the brass I guess I would avoid it. Id also avoid all presses in that case lol. I have a pva push through base sizer but its the .460 bushing size instead of .467 thats my issue, not the press. Changing jaws is as difficult as undoing 2 screws and putting them back in.What would be a good first press?
So, for bullet pulling you have no issues with the handle getting in the way...tells me you don't use a press mounted bullet puller.I think the co-ax is a fine first and only press. I dont have issues bullet pulling or decapping (its the best decapping system imo with its cup). I dont shoot shit brass so I dont swage pockets so I guess consider that if you do. Ive also never stuck a case wiht it so if you choose to not lube the brass I guess I would avoid it. Id also avoid all presses in that case lol. I have a pva push through base sizer but its the .460 bushing size instead of .467 thats my issue, not the press. Changing jaws is as difficult as undoing 2 screws and putting them back in.
Turret presses will do anything an "O" press will do, but they are really handy if you are only loading for a couple of calibers and can keep them permanently mounted.School me on the turret presses like the Redding T7 and others. How do they compare to a regular single stage?
I stick a wrench in the slot along side the lock ring and my RCBS puller doesn’t spin and works fine.So, for bullet pulling you have no issues with the handle getting in the way...tells me you don't use a press mounted bullet puller.
You don't have trouble with universal decapping...so with a floating die, you manage to hit that 0.062" hole every fucking time without breaking the decapping pin...bullshit.
You don't swage because you don't shoot shit brass...well la di fucking da...lots of us want to shoot free range pick up brass.
So changing jaws is as simple as loosening 2 screws...I suppose you've never had the spring shoot off ti parts unknown either.
GTFO with that shit.
Turret presses will do anything an "O" press will do, but they are really handy if you are only loading for a couple of calibers and can keep them permanently mounted.
Down side is that if you want to load more calibers, then you have to unscrew them anyway or buy more turrets (which you have to swap out.) Turret presses are heavier and bigger and cost more, but still a solid choice for first press.
So, for bullet pulling you have no issues with the handle getting in the way...tells me you don't use a press mounted bullet puller.
You don't have trouble with universal decapping...so with a floating die, you manage to hit that 0.062" hole every fucking time without breaking the decapping pin...bullshit.
You don't swage because you don't shoot shit brass...well la di fucking da...lots of us want to shoot free range pick up brass.
So changing jaws is as simple as loosening 2 screws...I suppose you've never had the spring shoot off ti parts unknown either.
GTFO with that shit.
This is coming from someone that has fallen out of love with the CoAx.
- I use a Hornady bullet puller in my CoAx and it works ok. Not great but OK.
- I have no problem with decapping (see below).
- The only on press swaging system I think is worth using is the Dillon 1050. All the rest are garbage. I use a Dillon Super Swage. I have several on press swaging systems and no longer use them.
- The automatic jaws are a horrible design. They cause seating depth issues, excessive run out, and misalignment with dies that need perfect alignment. I switched to fixed shell holder conversion and it resolved nearly all alignment problems.
To the OP, I'd buy a RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme. The Forster CoAx does have some rather distinct idiosyncrasies unless you only plan to shooting a single cartridge that fits perfectly in the middle of the auto jaws operating range (like 308).
So, for bullet pulling you have no issues with the handle getting in the way...tells me you don't use a press mounted bullet puller.
You don't have trouble with universal decapping...so with a floating die, you manage to hit that 0.062" hole every fucking time without breaking the decapping pin...bullshit.
You don't swage because you don't shoot shit brass...well la di fucking da...lots of us want to shoot free range pick up brass.
So changing jaws is as simple as loosening 2 screws...I suppose you've never had the spring shoot off ti parts unknown either.
GTFO with that shit.
One warning, it adds up quickly - since you don't have a press, you probably don't have the rest like a powder dispenser(s), priming tools, SS tumbler, case gauges, etc.
Looking back at my post, I was a little harsh. I apologize for that brother. You add a lot to this forum and I was in a dick mood.I stick a wrench in the slot along side the lock ring and my RCBS puller doesn’t spin and works fine.
I’ve never broken a pin in either the Redding or the lee decapper. I’ve never lost the spring, slide it off onto your hand and it doesn’t go anywhere.
It’s all pretty easy really. He would be hard pressed to find a better choice if fits his budget and can find one. I wouldnt not get something else though, I just wouldnt deter him from getting a coax, I dont regret getting mine.
I'm not what you'd call a high volume reloader, but in probably a thousand or so decapping operations, I haven't broken a pin yet. There have been times when I probably could have broken the pin had I been running the handle hard (read: the brass had off-center flash holes), but being... I don't know if "gentle" is the right word... has allowed me to stop pushing on the press handle in time to keep the pin from breaking/bending.You don't have trouble with universal decapping...so with a floating die, you manage to hit that 0.062" hole every fucking time without breaking the decapping pin...bullshit.
I've watched quite a few of his videos - no more. He's never tested a product he didn't like or didn't perform as advertised.Look up Ultimate Reloader press review it is a long but good review of a bunch of single stage presses. I still use my 30+ year old Rock Crusher and 2 550's. The old Rock Crusher started to feel loose a few years ago, contacted RCBS, I paid shipping to them, they rebuilt it with new bushings and sent it back no change. Got to love their warranty.
Right now I have four presses set up (two Dillon 550s, a T7, and a CoAx. An Ultra Mag still boxed since we moved to this house because there are fewer ranges to stretch out a .338 Lapua to its potential).Try one and sell it if you hate it. More likely, you will have several before it's over with. You can't go wrong with any Dillon.
Get a regular cast iron press of any kind as per my quote in my previous post. They are pretty cheap and will be good enough until you've found out your specific needs.What about the RCBS Summit? I just ran across that as well?
School me on the turret presses like the Redding T7 and others. How do they compare to a regular single stage?
A Co-ax is a great 2nd press, I have been using one for almost 20 years.
However, it is an inadequate only press. There some operations and applications that it sucks at, like primer pocket swaging, bullet pulling, universal decapping, removing stuck cases, using bulge busting push through dies...etc. Changing the jaws from large to small for 223 is also a pain in the ass.
I have a Co-ax and 2 Dillons and I still use my Lee and RCBS "O" presses just as much.
I have a RockChucker, CoAx and 550s that I use for precision ammo.
Anymore, about all I use is the 550. Everything from 17 Mach IV to 338 Lapua.
Ya I completely agree. It is an awesome press. But doing everything you listed is a pain or impossible. I run a redding t7 as well for all other tasks other than reloadingA Co-ax is a great 2nd press, I have been using one for almost 20 years.
However, it is an inadequate only press. There some operations and applications that it sucks at, like primer pocket swaging, bullet pulling, universal decapping, removing stuck cases, using bulge busting push through dies...etc. Changing the jaws from large to small for 223 is also a pain in the ass.
I have a Co-ax and 2 Dillons and I still use my Lee and RCBS "O" presses just as much.